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http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...3132&category=
I was shoping around and fount this setup and am wondering if anyone else has used this setup. I am setting up a MaxNC 10cl and found this one with some direction from this site. I hope to make a 4th axis for my machine in the near future.
Is it better to get a 3 jaw chuck or a 4 jaw?
Does the table have backlash adjustment. If not then I would look elsewhere if you are going to CNC it.
Just a thought
Phil
Originally Posted by Grp Racing
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...3132&category=
I was shoping around and fount this setup and am wondering if anyone else has used this setup. I am setting up a MaxNC 10cl and found this one with some direction from this site. I hope to make a 4th axis for my machine in the near future.
Is it better to get a 3 jaw chuck or a 4 jaw?
I would have to ask them on the site I found it. What rotary table do most people use to cnc on one of these benchtop mills?
Sherline has a nice one with motor already installed. I have as yet to use mine but hopefully soon.
Not sure of the price as mine came with the mill I picked up used.
Mike
Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out.
Sherline DOES have one of the BEST CNC rotary tables.
http://www.sherline.com/8730pg.htm
But I would buy the CNC READY version, and then put a motor on it that matched my power supply.
http://www.sherline.com/3700cncpg.htm
If you shop around for a discount you can get for less.
Now it is only a 4 inch table though. A 4 inch table will only easily adapt to a 3 inch chuck, and that will limit the diameter of work.
The more jaws a chuck has, the gentler it will hold the work. Use a three jaw chuck to hold only round work. A 4 jaw can hold both round and square stock. An independant 4 jaw chuck can adjiust each jaw for perfect concentricity. A 4 jaw scrolling chuck is self-centering.
There are also six jaw chucks that will hold round work like tubing more gently.
CR.
The self-centering chucks have limitations on how accurately they center. Independent chucks are slower to mount but can be "perfect". 4-jaw indy is easier to adjust than a 3-jaw indy.
The 4-jaw indy can mount rectangular-but-not-square work. A 4-jaw self-centering cannot.
Those 3-jaw self-centering ones have replaceable jaw blocks, and that can come in handy to have custom jaws for specific jobs.
Nick recommended that if you only get one, get the 4-indy, and I see why. Round or square or rectangular and can give near-perfect accuracy.
Thanks Guys.. This has answered allot of my questions so far. I am not ready for a cnc table quite yet so I am wondering if anyone has used this product from Littlemachineshop.com?
I will definately go for the 4 jaw after all the supporting reasons for why it is better and I will look for the indy style jaws to allow for odd shaped work to be held.
I have been looking hard for a low budget setup to get me rolling and later I will either go 4th axis cnc table or just build a full 5 axis machine using the controller from my maxnc until I build a new controller board.
For getting started would anyone recomend a setup like this?
The rotary table you have posted is a cheap copy of a Phase II
You should look at the model 1927 instead, they are very good.
http://tinyurl.com/d7nc4r
The backlash is adjustable and it is very solid.
Welcome to the Zone,
Jeff...
Last edited by jalessi; 03-24-2009 at 07:05 AM. Reason: Bad information
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
The one photo'd is the 1810 model not the Phase II. Its getting on for half the price of the phase II. You have to ask why. But then you already know why.
Phil
Phil,
You are 100% correct, the 1810 is not very good.
He should be looking at the 1927 model.
http://tinyurl.com/d7nc4r
I will correct my old post.
Jeff...
Patience and perseverance have a magical effect before which difficulties disappear and obstacles vanish.
It's interesting that the cheaper model (1810) is ground all over, presumably to look more attractive to the less wary.
Phil
PS: Possibly a perfect example of: all that glitters in not gold.
ok. Thanks guys.. Thats what I was wondering. I dont want to buy a setup that will cause me more trouble than it is worth. I have some work I want to do that involves cam grinds and I would like it to run as true as possible.
I had thought about building one myself but with out a lathe I really dont want to attemp it. To be totally honest I want to build one of those scale engines. I want to model a Mitsubishi 4g63 turbo motor with dual overhead cams and all. I have been machining for 5 to 6 years and now have broken into the cnc scene with my Maxnc. I got it really cheap considering it was only a few months old with about 12 total hours on it. It has the updated electronics and the larger spindle motor. I plan to strengthen up the z axis and I'm building a block that allows me to move the z axis up and back for more movement. I will probably keep it for cutting printed circuits boards when I am done building my 5 axis machine. I just have to figure out what kind of controller I want to build and what to go with for steppers. I am doing allot of reading and looking for the best to get for matched steppers and then I can start on my build. I wish I had seen more of fixittt's posts on the max before I picked mine up but with the software and the machine with all tooling I made out really good at 1500 for all of it.LOL.
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