A Couple Simple Mini Lathe Conversion Questions

[Cartierusm]

So I've build a CNC router from scratch, my design and it's very accurate, out of aluminum. But I have very little ideas on lathes.

I want to convert a mini lathe from harbor freight, Wholesale Tool or a more expensive one from Grizzly http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-x...al-Lathe/G0602

First question is converting to CNC is the more expensive grizzly worth getting?

Second are the screws on a lathe more often antibacklash? or do I have to upgarde them as I would a mini mill with ballscrews? or what other options are there?

How do I find and where do you usually have the starting on a piece in the lathe. Meaning once I make it CNC and want to machine a regular part how do I find the point I want to start. With CNC Router my material is let's say 5" x 5", I design the part in Rhino and make the material 5" x 5" and the corner is the starting point. Then I bolt the piece in the CNC router and use a laser center finder to find the corner zero out my axis and set the z. Then I press go. So I'm wondering if I put a round rod in the lathe where do I start and how to find the edge of the workpiece? or do you start from the center of the rod?

Thanks for the help. I assume most of conversion will be easy for a lathe if I've already built an aluminum CNC router.

[hoss2006]

The G0602 would be a great choice, i'll be doing mine sooner or later.
It'll probably be back ordered but it's worth the wait.
Just like on a mill or router, you can set the origin wherever you want.
With a lathe a common point is the center of the stock after you've faced it off
or a set distance off the edge.
It's up to you.
Hoss

[Cartierusm]

LOL I know you like that lathe as I got the idea from your website. Very good work and thanks for all the info.

Hoss, do you have to change the screws on a mini lathe like you would on a mini mill?

[hoss2006]

Just like on a mill it's not absolutely necessary to switch to ballscrews
but I probably will for the same reason, to get better cutting/rapiding speed
especially on the Z axis.
I plan on having threading capabilities and the Z axis is going to have to be able
to haul butt to keep up with the spindle even on low.
Hoss

[Crevice Reamer]

Hoss: do you mean the long Z axis when you speak of X? Or the short one?

Hi Cartierusm.

The 10 x 22 IS the most bang for the buck in a lathe, but you can certainly CNC a smaller one also. I would not get the HF 7 x 10 though. It is REALLY only a 7 x 8. For a little more money, the Micro-Mark 7 x 14 is the better 7 x lathe.

For not much more than THAT though, the HF 8 x 12 is a much superior mini lathe.

It all depends on what you want to DO with your lathe.

As far as the CNC electronics go, The $299 G540 is the best choice. (You will have two spare drives, but also all the unkillable and speed features.) Two $39 Keling 270 motorss for the smaller ones or two keling $49 387 motors for the larger 10 x 22. A Keling $60 48V 7.3V PSU will be fine for either.

CR.

[hoss2006]

I don't plan on buying a 4 axis driver when I only need 2, that would be pretty dumb.
It would help geccos bottom line but not mine.
Plenty of individual driver choices out there, G250/251, KL-6050, IM483H to name a few.
I can get 60V from the KL-6050 driver for the same money so I'll probably lean that way.
We'll see.
Hoss

[Crevice Reamer]

The thing is, by the time you buy the two drivers, high tech opto isolated BOB with speed control and maybe power supply for BOB, you've spent almost as much and probably don't have either the vampire features, mid band resonance dampning, speed morphing or plug and play convenience (let alone small footprint) of the G540.

CR.

[Cartierusm]

Yeah but most lathes have a threading function, when you cnc I guess you bypass that and use software to achive the same end result? As far as electronics thanks for the suggestions but I already have a CNC Router I built, all aluminum, and when I built it I used quick disconnect Plugs for everything so I can use the comp and electronics for just about anything. I'll use everything except the motors, of course. I have the high end Keling Drives and can handle 80V. Right now running 495 oz. motors and 48V.

[Cartierusm]

Oh and on the HF Lathe how much play is there on the long screw and cross slide screw? I mean if there is more than .001 play I would think I'd need to add another bearing and spring to create antibacklash or buy new screws.

[hoss2006]

Yeah but most lathes have a threading function, when you cnc I guess you bypass that and use software to achive the same end result? As far as electronics thanks for the suggestions but I already have a CNC Router I built, all aluminum, and when I built it I used quick disconnect Plugs for everything so I can use the comp and electronics for just about anything. I'll use everything except the motors, of course. I have the high end Keling Drives and can handle 80V. Right now running 495 oz. motors and 48V.

yeah if you switch to ballscrews the gearing used for driving the leadscrew is no longer used.
Could use them for making windchimes.
As far as the electronics go, I could get (2) 60V drivers, BOB, C3 and PS for $310
or (2) 50V drivers, BOB, C3, PS and (2) motors for $324.
Makes a lot more sense to me.
Hoss

[Crevice Reamer]

As far as the electronics go, I could get (2) 60V drivers, BOB, C3 and PS for $310
or (2) 50V drivers, BOB, C3, PS and (2) motors for $324.
Makes a lot more sense to me.
Hoss

Well Hoss, I guess you are just not ever going to see the value of Gecko until you try one. Like I said though, you don't save much. Add some extra shipping costs if you buy all that at different places and you might save nothing.

And you DID gain 10 volts on the one package and that's something, but of course you lost some protection and a lot of performance.

One thing we did NOT factor in though is the $120 value of the two spare G250s that could probably be removed from G540 and used in other projects.

CR.

[hoss2006]

Well Hoss, I guess you are just not ever going to see the value of Gecko until you try one. Like I said though, you don't save much. Add some extra shipping costs if you buy all that at different places and you might save nothing.

And you DID gain 10 volts on the one package and that's something, but of course you lost some protection and a lot of performance.

One thing we did NOT factor in though is the $120 value of the two spare G250s that could probably be removed from G540 and used in other projects.

CR.

You just aren't comprehending, If I got the g540 I would STILL have to get the (2)motors, PS and C3 so that's almost $200 on top of the $299 g540 plus shipping from the SAME 3 sources, so lets say $550 total.
Scenario 1, I add $100 for (2) motors to the 60V package Plus shipping from the same 3 sources for a total of $457.
I get a better 60V 5A system and save $100. It has MORE than enough protection and performance.
Scenario 2, I get everything I need in the 50V package, which was with (2) g250's by the way, add the shipping from the SAME 3 sources for a total of $374.
I save $176 over your g540 version.
I don't need to spend money for the g540 motherboard I can hook a few wires up myself and pocket the $176, which could buy me 3 more drivers down the road if and when I decided I needed them.
Who knows if I ever would, something better could come out.
I know you're opinion is totally biased, your avatar says that, but thanks,
I can be more open minded and decide what's going to give ME the best bang for MY buck.
I got a better argument for ya, plain or peanut
Hoss