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I converted my X2 thanks to Hoss' website and plans. I can't help you with the steppers - I am not sure what torque they are - but as far as software goes, I use Mach3 and Dolphin CAD/CAM and have been happy with both.
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Hello.
First post. Nice place you have here.
I have an X2 and want to convert it to CNC. Hoss has inspired me with the detailed instruction with the X2 Freak. Nice work is an understatement. wow. Anyone else amazed at how well that system works?
My mill:
My Steppers
I have two used 6 wire Astrosyn 34PM- C102-15 1.8 degree steppers.
3.0 V/Phase 4.0 A/Phase.
Does anyone have an opinion on these motors being used for X & Y on a SEIG X2? Should I just get NEMA 23 motors and save a headache? If I use these, can I use NEMA 23 and different wire count with these for other axis or do they have to be the same?
How can I tell if these steppers are good?
I don't want a slow machine but speed isn't critical. Those faster Rapids are neat though. I'd like it to be acurate.
I'm thinking of getting the new G540 or drivers and a breakout board from Keling.
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from: http://www.kelinginc.net/KLDriver.html
2: KL- 4030 Microstepping Driver, Heat Sink is included, $54.95/pcs
Specification
Features of this driver
* Voltage up to 24 to 40VDC, current output up to 3.0 A
* Selectable resolutions, 1,1/2, 1/4, 1/8, 1/16, 1/32, 1/64
* Suitable for 4,6,8 lead motors
* DIP switch current setting:
0.9A,1.2A,1.5A,1.8A,2.1A,2.4A,2.7A,3.0A
* Over voltage, heat and short-circuit protection
Automatic Idle-Current Reduction
One Year Warrenty
OR
3: KL-6050 Microstepping Driver, Heat Hink is included, $59.95
Features of this driver
* Supply voltage up to 60VDC, current output up to 5.0 A peak
* Resolutions: 1/2, 1/8
* Over Voltage, Over Heat, Over Current Protection
* Suitable for 4,6,8 lead motors
* DIP switch current setting:
1.5A,2.0A, 2.5A,3.0A,3.5A,4.0A,4.5A,5.0A
Automatic Idle-Current Reduction
Over-Current, Over-Voltage & Short-Circuit Protection
One Year Warrenty
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I'm a little confused as to the most useful software for hobby use. What I'm looking to do with the CNC is some engraving and making aluminium and plastic parts. I'd like to take a drawing, import it into a program, make a 3-D part and then create the part. It looks like Mach3 is the ticket for G-code execution. I'd like to import .DXF files so I think I'd need a program like Bob Cad?
Looking forward to your comments.
Thanks,
Tboh
I converted my X2 thanks to Hoss' website and plans. I can't help you with the steppers - I am not sure what torque they are - but as far as software goes, I use Mach3 and Dolphin CAD/CAM and have been happy with both.
I recommend the $300 G540, These $39 270 Oz motors for X and Y:
http://kelinginc.net/KL23H276-28-4B.pdf
THIS $49 387 Oz motor for Z:
http://kelinginc.net/KL23H284-35-4B.pdf
And either the $60 KL350-48, The $129 KL5010 or the $139 KL5413 power supply.
Any of these PSUs will give you enough power to run three 270 Oz and one 387 Oz motors. (Just in case you ever opt for a fourth axis.)
This combination will make that mill FLY. And don't forget that the G540 includes CNC spindle speed control built in.
CR.
I easily get > 35IPM on my X2 with a G251 and the 425oz Keling motors, wired bipolar series with a 24V PSU. As even that speed is largely wasted, I don't see what higher voltage would get me except hot motors.
Otherwise, I second the G540 recommendation. I used 3x G251s because they were on sale, but building a good enclosure and wiring takes ridiculous amounts of time. The G251s run my motors smoother, cooler, and at least 20% than the IM483 drives I replaced.
You can ALWAYS set the motors to run slower. However, should you decide that you want more speed from your slow setup--it's very expensive to then make them run FASTER. Much less expensive to buy the best combination ONCE than to have to upgrade later.
CR.
BTW, on my SX3 the 425s run at 72V--in Bipolar Parallel. They push a much heavier table and deliver rapids of 300 IPM+ --And they do NOT get hot.
CR.
I figure 30+IPM is more than enough speed for an X2. I've never milled at more than 20IPM and given the machine size, the rapid speed is not a big factor unless we're talking cool factor
Now, on my wood router it's another issue--when your table is measured in feet and you have linear bearings instead of iron dovetails, 300IPM makes a lot of sense.
24V PSUs can often be found surplus for short money. I got a few 150W ones for $10 each at a flea market. If you're buying new and it's $10 more for a 36V or 48V one then I'd go bigger too. But I don't see any reason why you'd want to spend $140 on a PSU for this type of setup. I'd sooner spend the extra $120 or so on tooling.
Also the 270s have roughly half the inductance of the 425s, so he would see faster speeds than me at any voltage. That's a case where bigger definitely isn't better.
The G540 and the Keling motors and PS will be on the build list.
This conversion is getting a real plan now.
Thanks guys.
EXCELLENT!Originally Posted by Tboh
Keling is one of the best sources for quality/value, but he will often send you something different if what you ordered is not in stock. What he sends may not be the best choice. Be sure to call or email for availability and specify NO Substitutions.
CR.
I've heard good things about this:
http://www.d2nc.com/
It operates in conjunction with Mach 3 and is fairly cheap. You might want to check it out.
CR.
I started out doing all my 2.5D work using eMachineShop to generate DXF and CamBam to generate g-code. Both can be had for free and are rudimentary but usable for basic operations. There is now a plus version of CamBam which adds a few more advanced features and there are a few good 2.5D CAM applications like Dolphin and Vectric which aren't too expensive.
I bought BobCad because I wanted the full 3D capability and no one else comes close for their price (>$500) but it's a pretty nasty application. Lots of bugs and about as user-friendly as a pineapple.
I bought Bobcrap 2 years ago, I mean Bobcad for pretty much the same reason sansbury stated, 3D. After several hours spent, several weeks, I had about 0 luck with it. It was as good as it was before shipped. I was out $800 as they would not refund me. Eventually after thoroughly testing dolphin, I felt it was the right decision. I wanted to be 100% sure before I bought it. I also use surfcam at work during the days but that is quite expensive.
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