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Benchtop Machines Discuss all mini mills sherline, taig, square column, round column and CNC mill conversions here!


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Old 05-28-2008, 08:42 AM
 
Join Date: Dec 2004
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Question Replacing motor and controller in plain X3

Folx,

I long while back I did a similar mod to my 9x20. Loved it.

Now it is time to do the same with me "plain" X3 . I have a weird
and totally random issue with the stock setup where spindle, even
w/o any load, would randomly spin down and back up - as if something
trips the controller. Checked brushes, wiring etc - all appear normal.

The problem normally goes away after a few profanities are uttered, mill
turned on and off a few times etc.

I ordered same Minarik 2HP DC controller that I used in my lathe
(under $60, new SCR-type, delivered). Now I am looking for a "better" thread mill DC motor - one with decent shafts, HP, RPM and a way to face mount. Hopefully I will be able to score one for about same amt of money and all that will be left is a timing pulley. What is the stock belt width - 9mm ?
In case I will need a new belt, what is a good place to buy one from ? 5mm pitch x 9mm(?) width .

The goals are:

- eliminate the darn problem with the motor's random spin-downs
- get closer to 3K RPM in high-gear range
- get a beefier motor so that motor doesn't trip when drilling 1/2" holes and stuff
- get a "brand-name", popular controller that can be serviced easily should it ever be necessary .

I plan on mounting the motor the same way as the stock one. I might need to fashion a new mounting plate or, if I get lucky, reuse the stock one by drilling a few extra holes. Might need get a belt of a different length. Will keep the gears, for now - but at a later point, just might explore going with direct drive of the spindle, to eliminate gear noise, tear and wear.

I will get a shroud around vents on the motor - same way I did it on my lathe. Should be nuff to keep the swarf out.

Appreciate any advice from folx that've done something similar.
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Old 05-28-2008, 09:08 PM
 
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I own an x2 and I was looking at this motor: http://cgi.ebay.com/HEALTHRIDER-PROF...2em118Q2el1247

It deffinatly looks over powered for the x2, but might be perfect for the your x3. It is a little expensive, but I think the specs make up for it. Keep us updated. -Adam
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Old 05-29-2008, 02:27 PM
 
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The treadmill motor in the Ebay auction has clockwise rotation. I f the motor is to be mounted on the top of the mill head, shaft pointing down, then a counter clockwise motor is required, or one that is reversible. Also, it would be important to understand what "treadmill duty" means as opposed to continuous duty.
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Old 05-30-2008, 10:59 AM
 
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Arrow Source & details Please

Originally Posted by rashid11 View Post
I ordered same Minarik 2HP DC controller that I used in my lathe (under $60, new SCR-type, delivered).
I would be interested in checking out that controller!
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Old 05-30-2008, 07:13 PM
 
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Surpluscenter has it in stock :

http://surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UI...tname=electric

the place is 100% legit and of course there's always Ebay

http://cgi.ebay.com/MINARIK-MM23001C...2em118Q2el1247
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:08 AM
 
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With parts on their way, here's some more thoughts on conversion.

- the motor's shaft is 17mm (yet the threaded part is imperial 1/2-13). Can we have some consistency here ?

17mm is too big - will see if I can take the rotor out and turn it down to 1/2 or 12mm. Problem being: the size of the driven timing pulley is limited and for decent low-RPM torque you want to have as small of driving pulley as possible.

Here's what's available from cheap stock products:

https://sdp-si.com/eStore/..%5Css%5CPDF%5C26503086.pdf

19 tooth pulley is probably the safest bet for the driving end, yet it can only be bored out to may be 12mm, leaving walls of only 3mm thick

- the motor's been the classic for many ears. It being so cheap, I will probably spring for a spare if the conversion is to my liking. RPMs are much higher that on stock motor, so I will be able to have high RPMs in 3000+ range and if I manage to also have high nice low-RPM torque, it will be mission accomplished


- the motor has a short 1/4 shaft at the "other" end - I might be able to put a smallish fan on it, with some kind of protective shroud. My mill being manual, I only mill in shorter spurts of 1-3 mins, before I stop to change a tool etc, so I don't think duty cycle will be an issue. The motor is "rated" for 100% dury cycle @ 1 1/2 HP @ 90 VDC - which is double of stock motor's power.

To get more than 1HP out of my Minaric requires 240V input and a decent heat sink. I plan on bolting the controller to the chassis - that should make a pretty decent heat sink. May be apply some thermal paste.
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Old 06-02-2008, 06:05 PM
 
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Exclamation Part I - replacing the controller

The new motor controller has come in today and I wasted no time replacing the stock X3 controller with the proven Minarik 23001C.

I kept the controller @ 120VAC (even though I can go 240V) as for now I am keeping the stock motor. The swap out took may be 20 mins . Didn't drill any new holes - reused the stock 3mm holes.

I added a heat sink - from Pentium 2 I had laying around. It has a built-in fan but I didn't power it up for now.

The "inhibit" aka "emergency stop" switch on stock X3 is configured for NC. I opened the cover and rewired it for NO (the switch can work either way, no need to replace it).

Adjusted the voltage to where motor gets 90V DC @ full RPMs with no load. Got torque and compensation set @ may be 1/4 turn CW. Since I used this very controller for a DC upgrade of my 9x20 about a year ago, I am rather familiar with this controller.

Bottom line - the mill is now much more capable than it was with stock controller. It used to fault a lot when trying to drill with 1/2" drill bit - not any more ! .

To test, I drilled through some 6061 Al (real gummy variety) - had no problems drilling right through about 1" thickness with 3/4 drill bit !

The spindle can not be stopped in Lo gear even at low RPMs - I did the leather work glove thing.

If any1's interested, surpluscenter and ebay both have the Minarik 23001C controller. I got mine under $60 shipped from an ebay seller.

Last edited by rashid11; 06-02-2008 at 06:36 PM.
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Old 06-02-2008, 08:41 PM
 
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Very interested in this thread. Did you happen to have any RPM increase? Do you know how easy it would be to hook that controller up to a C11G BOB for control from Mach3?
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Old 06-03-2008, 06:54 AM
 
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the control has a "voltage follower" mode, so you could control RPMs through some kind of device - if that's your question . Mine is all manual.

The only way to increase RPMs while keeping existing pulleys and gear arrangement is to increase the voltage on the motor past the plate value. I wouldn't want to do that

However, you can do "direct drive to spindle" mod, eliminate the gears and you can probably get close to 4000 RPMs, some folx allege the spindle will take that.
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Old 06-21-2008, 02:02 AM
 
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Originally Posted by dneisler View Post
Very interested in this thread. Did you happen to have any RPM increase? Do you know how easy it would be to hook that controller up to a C11G BOB for control from Mach3?
I have the same question. The pdf manual I have for the MM23001C says it needs a control voltage of 0 - 1.4vdc. Can the C11 BOB do that? Can't test mine right now as I fried some chips when I blew the x3 mill board hooking them together.

Note: As I understand, the c11 speed control power supply ground must be isolated from the 5v logic power supply ground of the c11 or you'll fry stuff like me. Analog out from the c11 must be isolated also.

Perhaps someone can clarify the connections between the c11 and MM23001C.
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Old 06-21-2008, 10:21 AM
 
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Arrow Info

If you are swapping out the motor with a Treadmill motor from Surplus Center and using the Minarik MM23001C then you might get 4600 (at the motor) or more RPM @ the 90V setting and IF VERY CAREFULL you could set the speed controller to 180V and just not turn the speed setting all the way up. This would allow you to reach the full motor speed of 6750rpm but with a loss of some torque. Motor cooling would have to be rigged as motor is only rated to 90V continuous, higher voltage is usable but not for extended periods due to heat buildup.

Speed control will work with a C6 board with its own dedicated wall wart type power supply. There is even specific wiring directions for the Minarik MM series.

Zoom zoom.
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Old 06-26-2008, 05:31 PM
 
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Originally Posted by skullworks View Post
There is even specific wiring directions for the Minarik MM series.
That pdf is for the MM3xx series. How do you hookup and MM23001C to the speed control of the C11 revision 5.4?
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