X3 w/B-screw & Controller , brand new, must go

[bryanrabb]

I no longer have the desire to use this machine. I thought I would once it was finished, but I am over it. Looking to sell it. I live near charlotte, NC if you are interested. Email with questions uscbryan@gmail.com or post here.

[caleb105]

Sorry to dig this thread up from the bowels of this website, but what are those connectors? I really like them. I found some on McMasterCarr that are apparently "Multipole Connectors", but they are expensive.

What are other people using? Where are you getting them from?

Thanks!

-Caleb105-

[Crevice Reamer]

You can use THIS wire for motor cables and home/limit switches. Ground the drain wire ONLY at the driver end.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Servo-Motor-Wire...3286.m20.l1116

These gold-pin connectors are good and fairly cheap:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...%3D4%26ps%3D42

They are crimp on type, but pins can also be soldered to wires before locking them into connector body.

CR.

[caleb105]

I like how the ones in the OP mount to the panel. What do people use for panel mount stuff? VGA cables?

[Crevice Reamer]

Those molex connectors WILL mount to the panel. one half will snap into square holes. DB-9 connectors also work.

CR.

[caleb105]

Looks like Project5k used something similar also:

[HimyKabibble]

Originally Posted by caleb105 I like how the ones in the OP mount to the panel. What do people use for panel mount stuff? VGA cables?

XLR and Speakon connectors are available in a wide range of configurations, inexpensive, rated for high current, and very rugged. They're used in PA systems.

Regards,
Ray L.

[Hirudin]

I picked up some speakon and powercon connectors. They are very nice. I wouldn't call them "cheap"... "inexpensive" is probably right. I'd say they're worth what they cost.

[project5k]

yea, mine are actually 4 pin microphone connectors from ratshack.

[LeeWay]

I intially tried those little white connectors. I still use them in one panel, but they cost me about a week and a half worth of aggravation and trouble shooting. A blade on two of them bent over rather than engaging. Since then I just use trailer connectors and let them pigtail out of the control panels and motors. They are cheap enough and are meant to be plugged and unlugged often, unlike those little white ones. The trailer connectors are beefy too.

Cost and fiddle factor is why I didn't use those nicer ones. They do bring more of a pro quality to a system. Maybe one day.

[caleb105]

Originally Posted by project5k yea, mine are actually 4 pin microphone connectors from ratshack.

Project,

Did you then use actual XLR mic cables to connect everything with? Or did you wire your own?


ETA: And where did you find 4-pin mic connectors? Seems like everything is 3-pin.

ETA2: Found the 4-pin connectors on Radioshack, looks like they are more for CB/HAM radio mics than for singing microphones.


-Caleb105-

[project5k]

that is correct, i did not use the xlr's for a couple reasons.. one, the current rating on each conductor didnt make me very happy, and 2 they are more expensive, and i have a limited quantity of them.

you are correct, they are cb/ham mic connectors, i like them cause they had a high enough current and voltage rating for my setup, and cause they have the threaded locking ring, so they cant get jiggled loose.

the wire i used was some left over belden i had, its 4 conductor with a shield. The shields are all tied to the driver case for noise shielding. I dont remember the exact belden #, but i think its 20ga, or there abouts.

The trailer connector idea is a good one, but i really liked the panel mount idea, so i went with what i had in my junk bin(i've got a big junk bin)

Not to mention, how many times are you really gonna need to make and break the connections? a high onsertion count connector just really isnt required. I connected mine once for testing, and then when i set it into place, and havent broken the connections since, and thats over a year ago...

something else i did that most probably dont think about.. i put lights across the fuses,(red, look at the pic, next to the fuse holders) so if one pops, the light will come on and tell me which fuse is blown. Before anyone rags on me.. yes i know that by having the light across the fuse, if the fuse pops, then yes there will still be voltage in the protected circuits, but i'm not worried about it, i understand the risks, accept them, and thats just how it is, cause i'm the only one that will ever be inside that box.