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Old 02-23-2008, 05:14 PM
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
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HF 47158 / X1 Unpacking

I just purchased my HF 47158 micro mill today, and am looking forward to unpacking it tomorrow.

I have read numerous posts about unpacking it and cleaning all of the red goop out of it, and re-oiling it with some machine oil.

This will clearly identify me as a "noob", but what exactly qualifies as machine oil? I assume its because it has some anti-corrosion additives in it?

Is 3 in 1 oil considered machine oil? Is there another, specific brand I should be using?

Sorry for the stupid question, but the last thing i want to do is go slathering up my new machine with some oil that is going to mess it up.

Thanks!
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Old 02-23-2008, 06:26 PM
 
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I use Mobil 1 (5W-20) car engine oil.

It "wicks" very well into the slide gib areas where, for some reason, the mfg neglected to provide lube provisions.

Good luck with your new tool.
They are fun! - just go slow and easy.
Pres
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:19 PM
 
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Thanks Pres, I hadnt considered a synthetic motor oil.

What is the best way to clean the red goop off? Should I just be wiping, or should i be using some type of solvent/cleaner?
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Old 02-23-2008, 07:37 PM
 
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I used cut plastic from plastic shrink packaging to scrape up the grease. The stuff you have to cut, swear at, and bleed upon to release a small kid's toy from. Then WD40 and paper towel to wipe up the remainder, followed by lube.

D.
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Old 02-23-2008, 10:02 PM
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i use light fluid for cleaning and motorcycle suspession oil for my way
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Old 02-23-2008, 11:35 PM
 
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FWIW: Seldom does anybody seem to mention "break-in" of a machine tool.

However, I think it helped my X1 quite a bit by running the spindle at varying speeds (slow at 1st). Also used low range both in forward and reverse for a few hours. I let temp and noise seem to dictate when it was run-in enough.
i.e. the temp and noise pretty much dropped to a minimum.
Total bed-in run time was around 6-8hrs for the spindle motor and gears.

Maybe it's not necessary, but seating in the motor brushes and 'lapping' in the gears made a noticeable reduction in temp and noise. The gears are kind of fragile so any smoothing of the surface could only help reduce breakage.

When actually using it for machining the load and speeds are dictated by what my setup really requires - I do not want to also consider whether or not it is broken-in.

I did a similar thing on each axis -for about 50 to 100passes/axis:
Got each axis snugged up and lubed then ran it back and forth using my variable speed 3/8" drill motor (with a 10mm socket on the axis handle nut).
It was suprising how it got loosened up after a few dozen passes requiring gib and lead screw nut readjustment.

After awhile it seems to settle down and stay about the same.

hth,
Pres
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Old 02-25-2008, 06:26 AM
 
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i cleaned mine then used solvol autosol polish in the dovetails to help bed them in
ran it up and down (with a battery drill) till the battery needed changing
then stripped and thouroughly cleaned it lubed it with atf, works well
run the motor for an hour out the box but lube the spindle bearings well light oil (10/40 or 2t or so) just squirt it down the quill
you need to lift the gear box lid but you'll do this any ways
putting brass gibs in helps too
and fitting thrust bearings to the lead screws makes it sweeter even in manual
mike
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