Chuck’s X2 conversion – I Hope –

[chukkie]

Looks like it would work to me.

[alex781]

Originally Posted by chukkie Looks like it would work to me.

Well now i've temporarily attached a mini 4"x4" compound table to the bare base of the X2 with F-clamps, so I can cut the mounting holes in the nut with a slot drill. (Was going to drill with a regular twist drill bit but I assume it's better for adjustability for the surface in contact with the mounting screws to be flat). Anyway thanks for the ideas

[alex781]

My mill is up and running, just a quick question for any X2 users -is it the case that the fine feed wheel on the Z does not have the same TPI as the X and Y axis? (if you can say a rack and pinion has a TPI)

The fine feed wheel is marked from 0 to 60 and the others are 0 to 62.5.
I am trying to calculate my steps per inch, it should be 12800 for the x and y using half steps and 2:1 timing pulleys.

Thanks

[hoss2006]

are you using the fine feed for cnc?
it has tons of backlash which is why most go with direct drive instead.
it's turning a worm gear which is driving the pinion on the rack so it's not the same "TPI"
as the x and y.
use your steps for the x if its the same belt ratio to get you in the ballpark
and use the Mach axis calibration to get it just right.
YouTube- Improved Mach 3 Axis CalibrationHoss

[alex781]

Originally Posted by hoss2006 are you using the fine feed for cnc? it has tons of backlash which is why most go with direct drive instead. it's turning a worm gear which is driving the pinion on the rack so it's not the same "TPI" as the x and y. use your steps for the x if its the same belt ratio to get you in the ballpark and use the Mach axis calibration to get it just right. YouTube- Improved Mach 3 Axis Calibration Hoss

I am using the fine feed for CNC just to keep the costs down, less than $800 spent in hardware at this point. I'm sure it won't be quick or easy to duplicate but Chuck's level of backlash on the Z using the stock controls would be ideal.
Thanks for the vid link, the whole series is a great resource and I'm learning a lot. it didn't occur to me that the X & Y leadscrew thread could be slightly more or less than 16tpi! I hope it's at least consistent across the length.

[TroyO]

Alex, that way of making splitting the nuts will work just fine. That's how mine ended up.

It wasn't my intention... LOL, I just mis-measured (Or at least mis-installed) mine and the set screws that hold the nut in place cracked a corner off. Anyway... I went ahead and cut the rest off just about exactly as you have pictured and it works just dandy. (By the way... thanks Chukkie! That mod seems to work great... even if I futzed it a little, LOL.)

PS... I think the part between the table and base is called the "Saddle".

[alex781]

Originally Posted by TroyO Alex, that way of making splitting the nuts will work just fine. That's how mine ended up. It wasn't my intention... LOL, I just mis-measured (Or at least mis-installed) mine and the set screws that hold the nut in place cracked a corner off. Anyway... I went ahead and cut the rest off just about exactly as you have pictured and it works just dandy. (By the way... thanks Chukkie! That mod seems to work great... even if I futzed it a little, LOL.) PS... I think the part between the table and base is called the "Saddle".

LOL I knew the hole placement would be a hassle and 'cutting corners' is what I normally do. It's split now and seems to do the job. I take it you converted an X2 as well, is there a write up for your build? Thx for the vocab check

[TroyO]

Nope, no conversion... just making it the best hand-cranker I can.

[alex781]

I am finding the split nuts on my build make the axes very stiff at sub 0.003", wondered if this was normal, or a problem with how I split them.

I imagine those thrust bearings on your Y axis were to reduce stiffness? I should probably test again with a better dial indicator.