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Benchtop Machines Discuss all mini mills sherline, taig, square column, round column and CNC mill conversions here!


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  #13   Ban this user!
Old 01-15-2008, 09:16 AM
 
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I have a small problem with my E-stop switch...

It is opposite of what it should be. I need it pushed in for the mill to run and have it out for the stop.

I bought a normally closed. Did I need a normally open?

Mike
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:47 AM
 
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go to ports and pins and where is says inputs, scroll down to e stop and where it says "active low" click that box.
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Old 01-15-2008, 07:50 PM
 
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Originally Posted by skmetal7 View Post
go to ports and pins and where is says inputs, scroll down to e stop and where it says "active low" click that box.
Hey! That worked! LOL
Thanks skmetal7
Mike
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Old 01-15-2008, 10:39 PM
 
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yay!
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Old 01-17-2008, 05:47 PM
 
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I'm starting the actual build of the mill and I have one question so far.

Do I need the torsion bar setup for the mill?

I am running the cncfusion ballscrews and the Keling 425 oz motors.

Mike
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:13 PM
 
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Mike -

On my just converted X2 mill, I have the same kit with Keling 425 oz/in on the Z-axis, 270 oz/in on the X & Y. I left the torsion arm on at first but disconnected it after a few days to see if made any difference. None - so I removed it entirely.

- Felix
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Old 01-17-2008, 06:33 PM
 
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Ok cool...I wasn't sure if that just helped to even out the forces on the motor in relation to the head....I want to leave it off to clean up the mill a little more. I'm moving all the electronics to a different control panel while I am at it.

Mike
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Old 07-12-2009, 02:16 PM
 
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hey all!
just finished my set up also. so for the keiling inc pack 425 oz in motors kl-4030 which alot of people seem to have, same as i, m1 down - m2 down - m3 up - m5 up - m6 up - m7 down will give a 1/8 step resolution with 2.7 A ?

thats the motor pack i'm running, dual gantry style, with 7/16"-8tpi 4-Start lead screws with backlash nuts. can't wait to get it running!
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Old 07-19-2009, 11:08 AM
 
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I just got back from vacation so I missed all the questions in this thread, looks like Hoss has done it again with the help!

one thing I will throw out is when you are in the motor tuning screen and you slide and of the bars, vel or accell, you can use the up and down arrow keys on the keyboard to test the settings "BEFORE" clicking save settings and exiting. It aids in tuning the motors. and remember in the motor tuning screen its only the up and down arrow buttons to test with regardless of which axis your tuning. Make sure that you click the save axis settings button before moving to the next axis. And you have to make a change in the slider bars before it will work.
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Old 07-19-2009, 12:43 PM
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great tip!
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Old 07-20-2009, 06:04 PM
 
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ohh and Im going to throw this out there. Having had some experience with the 4030`s i will say this. For the very intensive g-code (I cut waxes for the jewelry industry) I have experienced drift with the 4030`s. my guess was that it they couldnt keep up with the massive g codes I was throwing at them. I have tried everything under the sun to make them work. Eventually moving to the 5060`s solved the problem. For routers with less steps per I hope its not an issue.
just throwing it out there incase you run into the issue, you dont rack your brain trying to solve it, its in the drive themselves.
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