Custom Tooling Plate

[Swisha_House]

Because of set-up issues I really want to make a tooling plate for my mini-mill.

Today I started kicking the idea around with a buddy of mine, and all he told me was not to use 1018. However in the dry climate I live, rust is hardly a issue. Now I have made a few steel accessories for my machines, and none of them show the slightest sign of rust. Granted these are pretty un-precise accessories, and I haven't the foggiest whats going on in the terms of thousandths.

So I am posting this so you guys can help me with your knowledge. If possible I'd like to work with 1018, however if necessary I could change. Aluminium in the size I'm looking is only about ~125% more, however SS and such are distancing there selfs by ~400-600%.

I figure if because of rust issues I could use AL, and as long as I am gentle with it I figure dinging won't be much of a problem.

Sorry as I probably seem quite offbeat with reality, but as a hobbyist I have just been learning as I go. No job, career, or school background in any relating areas, so again not a whole lot of knowledge.

Any help greatly appreciated!

[pzzamakr1980]

I just finished my aluminum fixture plate. It double as an enclosure to run flood cooling. It's fantastic. I got the 3/4 inch thick slab, made it about 3 inches more than the travels of the table. Surfaced as much as I could with a 3in flycutter to make the plate level with the head. Then I drilled holes 1/2 deep and tapped them. It was pinned in place so if I remove each hole will still lines up exactly where they were when I drilled them. I start in the middle of my travels each axis and drill from there with 1in spacing going both ways. So far so good. What I would do next time though is get tool aluminum, such as mic-60. Its dimensions are much more accurate and I've been told doesnt expand and contract with temperature as much as 6061 does. I use aluminum because its easy to mill and tap and works just fine for a hobbyists needs.

[Swisha_House]

You got any pictures?

Now how does yours look? Just tapped holes, or have you milled slots in it as well? Now how do you prevent machined chips from getting in the tapped holes? I presume you could use set screws, but as I have neither seen it I don't think that is how it is done.

You bring about the issue of thermal expansion/contraction. Is this occurring while machining the mounting holes, or in typical machining situations happening upon the plate?

One final question, what did you do to create a enclosure of this thing? Mill a slot around the perimeter and drop some plexi-glass in?

Thanks for your response!

[pzzamakr1980]

I milled a slot around the edges, just under 1/4in. I put some lexan in there but am going to redo it with a piece of aluminum milled to fit in it and mitered to form a box. Then Im going to put some plexiglass up to the height that I need. That way it can be removed. The problem with the lexan is that i couldnt remove it if I needed a larger work space or to clean it. Plus it leaked even with copious amounts of sealant.

[laszlozoltan]

I like your enclosure- it looks like a smart and tidy solution.