ok got my mill from garant

[ataxy]

Hey i got my mill yesterday from garant, so far i am quite happy with it here is a pic of it sorry for the mess i am not done yet organizing the space for it, i was expecting to arrive with a set of sleeve collar but i actually got a nice little er25 chuck with it.
To give a little idea it had no problem taking a sidecut .375 deep x .100 wide with a .375 4 flute carbide end mill a finish was quite smooth.
Also the machine is the same as the vario bf20 and is made by the same manufacturer in china "weiss machinery", it also arivved with a test record made by garant and is for the most part square inside 0.015mm or 0.00059in
edit: Ok tried a .5 5 flute carbide end mill at .5 deep x .2 wide side cut the motor was showing sign of slowing down wich i guess is normal and surface finish after the pass was wavy but ok after i came back on it.
Also i check the backlash and i currently have 0.006 on the x axis and 0.005 on the y i have not checked the z axis yet but so far its quite impressive for such a small mill but this will probably change a bit as it break in and the nut loosen there self.

[Ron111]

Looks good, what are your plans. Now this simular to the X2 and what type of spindle speeds do you have?

Nice loking mill.

Ron

[ataxy]

no its actualy more like a x3/superx3
motor is a 7/8hp
speed is low 50-1050 and hi 100-2250
travel is now that i got it 11.5(x)x7.25(y)x12(z)
head tilt 90 degree left and right
but its lighter then the seigx3 at ~262 pound, this is what i got here on the balance at home
the only con is that its equipped with a mt2 tapper wich limits to the usage of er25 collet or 5/8 end mill holder, the documentation says a max 2" face mill but garant talks of a 2" fly cutter on their site
for plan well ill be getting the 495oz 3axis kit from keling and in a not so distant futur i hope some ballscrew then well my first project since i have most of the part needed is a surface grinder a la hoss

edit: ok i got my cnc kit figured out
-i need 71 inches total of ballscrew or to be more precise 1x19" 1x23" 1x29"
homeshopcnc.com as "nook" rolled .631x.2 at 1.25$/inch or 1.25$x71= 88.75$
-they also have some none preload nut at 26$ a nut, so two per axis 26$x6=156$
-and the CNC 3 Axis Package with 495 oz-in motor and KL-4030 Driver @ 415$
for a total of 659.75$
now for the mounting part i have plenty of aluminium at home to make them i would use an old 486pc case for the electronic i have a bunch of bearing here that could be used for the screw flange wich would leave me with some wire sleeve and wire to connect the whole setup to buy so lets say 40$
wich mean ~700$ with currency exchange 750$cnd plus shipping around 50$cnd each so 100$cnd where at 850$, then you have to add taxes 120$cnd so whe are at 970$cnd plus the duty ~60$, 1030$cnd so i guess thats it did i miss something?

[ataxy]

i have a question i got a bunch of switch and i was wondering if those could be use as limit and home switch
the have three screw on them and the writing on them are as follow

v3-101
und. lab. inc. list. li56
11A 1/3hp 125. 250 277vac
1/2A 125vdc:1/4A 250vdc
4A 125vac"L"

also on the other side of the switch its written

micro switch
freeport, ill, usa

wich is the brand
and pointing at each screw there are the word com, nc, no.

[nine 16]

ataxy,

While I look forward to the accurate and comprehensive answers that will come from the many knowledgable members of this forum, I think the numbers suggest that this switch will handle up to 277 volts of alternating current or 125 volts of direct current without shorting.

NC stands for Normally Closed, and NO stands for Normally Open.

With one of your two leads connected to the Comm pin, you would connect the other lead to the NC pin if you want your circuit to be Closed (current will flow) at switch activation, or you connect the 2nd lead to the NO pin if you want the electrical circuit to be Opened (current flow will cease) at switch activation.

I think some switches are polarity sensitive; your hot or positive lead might have to be attached to the Comm pin vs the NC or NO pins, or vise-versa.

micro-switch.net might be the mfg.

[ataxy]

ok so in your point of view it should work oh thats great and is there an advantage at using it no or nc

[nine 16]

Sorry ataxy, I'll have to hand off that baton. I'm sure I'm already over my head.

[ataxy]

hey no problem thanks for the enlightment, anybody else cares to add to nc versus no question

[alexccmeister]

I used NC switch for my emergency stop button. I think they have specific purpose. I wouldn't be able to use NO for my emergency stop button. I think NC is more used than NO.

Haven't used NO switch so not sure when and where to use that. I think NO is just like your average switch, isn't it.

[Oldmanandhistoy]

ok so in your point of view it should work oh thats great and is there an advantage at using it no or nc

Hi,

I use NC for all my home/limit switches. The reason for this is if a wire breaks the switch will trip an alarm as the circuit is broken. If you used NO you would not know about it until a home or limit was hit and the damage will be done.

John

[ataxy]

ok so how does this work in my case i wil connect the ground to nc and the +5 to com

[ZipSnipe]

So they have those in canada now(your mill aka Vario 20) ? What that run ya(cost) ? Thats my favorite looking benchmill by the way.