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Benchtop Machines Discuss all mini mills sherline, taig, square column, round column and CNC mill conversions here!


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Old 12-26-2006, 03:56 PM
 
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Rods UP 9000 is on a distinguished road
newbe with ????'s

Been reading on this site for awhile now, and ready to jump into CNC. I got a X2 machine,and ordered the 3 axis set from xylotex, plans from fignoggle, and mach 3 from artsoft. I'm very dumb when it comes to computers and need to know how you draw in a cad program and traslate it to CNC. What is cad/cam software?? Is it software sold as a cad/cam package?

I do have a Grizzly G3358 milling machine so I don't have to make the parts before I tear down the X2. I will be getting a lathe very soon too.
Will be putting in all 3 ball screws also. What about belt drive, is it worth putting on the X2??? Will be machining alum mostly.

Any help is appreciated

THANKS
Rodney
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:15 AM
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Rodney,
What most do is draw the part in your favorite cad program and "save as" a dxf file. Then using a cam like SheetCam www.sheetcam.com import the file and setup the "processes" to do the actual cutting. Then you select the proper "post" to generate the actual G-code file to put into your control program.
As for the belt drive option on the X2, I would venture to say that it would be worthwhile as you will be using smaller cutters and they like a high speed especially in aluminum.
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Old 12-27-2006, 06:49 AM
 
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Rodney,

Ijust converted my X2 myself too! I did go ahead and added the belt drive because I thought the extra spindle speed would come in handy. I also am using Mach 3. Artsoft has a little CAM program called "Lazy CAM" it takes your DXF files made in your CAD program and makes the G-code for your. LAzy CAM is included when you buy Mach 3.

Later,
Tim
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Old 12-27-2006, 09:01 AM
 
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THANKS Bubba and Tim
Tim, is the "lazy CAM" automatic or do I have to do something else to make it work?? What is the easiest CAD to learn in your opinion?? For now I just need a basic place to start. I downloaded the 30 day free trial of Autocad and cannot figure it out.. Like I said, I am very computer dumb.

I got the X2 tore to peices lastnight. Started reading over the plans. Will go get the the alum today and start making the parts. Will oder the ballscrews and ballnuts also.
Again THANKS
Rodney
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Old 01-03-2007, 03:03 PM
 
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Rodney, I am interested in converting my X2 as well. Do you have an estimate of how much it will actually cost to build to the plans at this time? Are you able to source the stock material locally?

Also, anyone that reads this, if you have done your conversion using the figNoggle plans do you mind addressing the two questions above? David of figNoggle estimates $300

Thanks for your time and input,
Jay
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:37 PM
 
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Well guys let me say that I love to make my own stuff. I think it's safe to call me a real DIY type guy. I just installed hardwood floors in my house myself after NEVER doing it before, built my 10x16 while being a complete newbie at construction. The internet is a wonderful tool for information. A few clicks is all it takes to learn so much. With that said I just figured it was better for me anyways to just buy a CNC retrofit kit. I wanted to make sure I had things straight and level before I started making the things I wanted to make with the mill(X2). After looking about at the TONS of info on the net CNCFusion was the best fit for me. I bought the 3 axis ballscrew kit. I believe it was $540 or so. They have a kit that only has the ballscrew on the Z for around $390 I believe. I just didn't trust the screws that came with the mill from China and I could aford it at the time. It was real easy to install and saved me alot of time and frustration. Time is money even in a hobby and it saved alot of time. I also bought the Xylotec 3 axis "ready kit". It included the drive board, 3 267oz steppers which where already wired and all the voltage was already set, cooling fan and power supply. All I had to do was dig up an encloser for it.
Again there is alot of options out there it just depends how much you want/can spend and what you can do yourself.
For what it's worth I would say that if you have any thoughts of converting to CNC then adding DRO's to a manual machine first would kind of be wasted money in my eyes. Also not trying to knock the FigNoogle plans but I just don't like having to use a belt between the stepped and the screw. Also if you use steppers with twin shafts( shafts sticking out both ends) then you could just mount manual handles to them. It kind of scares to have the Z axis handle spinning around while in "CNC' mode.
Just my 2 cents....keep the change!

LAter,Tim
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Old 01-03-2007, 06:40 PM
 
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You could just start by using the wizards available in Mach and worry about a full CAD/CAM program later. It looks like you already have enough to learn anyway.


Regards
Phil

Originally Posted by Rods UP 9000 View Post
THANKS Bubba and Tim
Tim, is the "lazy CAM" automatic or do I have to do something else to make it work?? What is the easiest CAD to learn in your opinion?? For now I just need a basic place to start. I downloaded the 30 day free trial of Autocad and cannot figure it out.. Like I said, I am very computer dumb.

I got the X2 tore to peices lastnight. Started reading over the plans. Will go get the the alum today and start making the parts. Will oder the ballscrews and ballnuts also.
Again THANKS
Rodney
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Old 01-04-2007, 06:23 AM
 
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Jay C,
I have all of the alum, cap screw, taps (except the 15/16-16 tpi for the z axis ball screw cap), z axis ball screw (e-bay $27.55) I have about $110 so far. The plans use the x and y lead screws that came with the machine. I will upgrade to ball screws.
I have a suppier(Smith Steel and Supply , here in Leavenworth Ks) for the alum that has very reasonable prices. I have less than $40 in the alum. The cap screws came from Fastenal for $28, and the taps came from Beaver Drill and Tool (Kansas City Ks)$9. The belt drive came from Harrison (Canada)$110. I got that one for the 4500 rpm verses LMS at 4300 rpm. The LMS looks easier to change speeds though and a little more money. I have not found the 15/16-16 tpi tap locally for the z axis ball screw cap. I have a 14 x48 Clausing lathe now and will try to machine the thread with it. That will save around $60 for the tap. Went to machine tool school 32 years ago and have not ran a lathe since. Got a lot of refreshing to get caught up on. For the x and y axis, I'm buying 4 feet of ball screw and machineing it myself.

Tim,
Thanks for your $.02 worth. I geuss you could call me a real DIY type of person too. I built my 3000 sq ft house +(1200 sq ft garage) ALL by myself. I did every thing but the concrete, mud and taping of the sheetrock and install the floor corving. I even built all of the kitchen cabinets. I am a OTR truck driver with 2 to 2 1/2 days off a week and built it in 16 months. Yes time is money, but if I figure at $25.00 @ hr, (my shop rate for myself) is it cheeper to buy or do it myself?
The ball screws you bought, I can make for $70.00 for the screws, and $170.00 for the preloaded ball nuts for all 3 axis and 2 hours to machine them, I have $290.00 in them including my labor. cncfusions sell the ball screws and ball nuts for $349 + shipping, I save $60.00 + by doing it myself.
I don't mind leaving the hand wheels on. I like the 2 to 1 ratio. With the 497 motors I have, I probably don't need the 2 to 1. Need to get it up and running, and see if I need it. Then if I cannot get the speed I want I will go 1 to 1, direct drive on both the X and Y axis.

philbur,
I've only peeked at the Mach 3. Thanks for the heads up on running on Mach 3 only. I did't realize I could do that. I will play around with it, when I get the mill done.


THANKS YOU GUYS
Rodney
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Old 01-04-2007, 05:02 PM
 
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I Think I got a tap that size from jts machinery and supply for like $14. Wouldnt hurt to check it out.
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Old 01-04-2007, 05:10 PM
 
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O.K. It was more like $24. But that is still a steal for when you need one!
http://www.jtsmach.com/jtswebshop/Taps_Dies/T059.asp
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Old 01-04-2007, 09:22 PM
 
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grinderdust,
THANKS for the info. $24 is worth not having to do the setup in the lathe.

Rodney
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