Q: Fixture plate for x3

[Deviant]

Anyone make these? I know I see them for taig/sherline on ebay. But I Haven't seen anything for the x3. Thanks.

[dcprecision]

You can make your own plate easily. Get an appropriate length and width of 1/2 thick aluminum rectangle. Clamp it to your table and fly cut it flat on both sides and square both ends. Make a few T slot nuts and tap them 1/4-20. Drill and countersink an appropriate number of holes to bolt to the table T slots. Mount with 1/4-20 flat head socket cap screws. Zero it out on the X axis with an indicator and once set drill a pair of holes 1/2" from the front edge at a known distance apart and measured from the left end of the plate. Example, if your plate was 6 x 16" you may wish to drill 2" from the left and with a 12" distance between centers. These holes should be press fit for 2 protruding dowel pins, 1/4 x 5/8 works well. You must also drill and tap the base at known points close to the right and left edge for mounting parts carrier plates. Using an edge finder, locate the left side and front edge. This is zero, zero and can be programmed as your x-y limit switch offsets. Now various parts carrier plates that match the pin spacing of the base plate can be made to bolt to the base plate for producing various production parts. Alternatly you could drill and tap some holes for clamping directly to the base plate. If you are only going to make one of a kind items, a fixture plate has little value. You would be better served by drilling the machine table itself at various points on the x & y axis for slip fit dowel pins used to locate the edges of a material slab which can be held by clamps or cam locks. (See the industrial Hobbies web site for more pinning info.) However, I do not think you must install hardened bushings as they suggest for hobby or light duty use. Alternatly a machine vise with paralells and an end stop is best for most smaller parts. I made a stop which is bolted to the side of the vise back jaw out of 3/4" square material. It can be moved out of the way when not needed.

[Deviant]

I have no plans to drill into the actually machine plate. This would have negative effects on it's retail value.

The plan was to make a plate that is the full length/width of the existing table. And never remove that place. Additional fixtures would be made to mount onto that plate in a manner that allows you to switch out for each machine process.

I will be doing alot of one-off type stuff. But I have a few items that I will make several off. This is what I'm looking to speed up. I'm also looking at the possibility of utilizing homing switchs so I can dummy proof the parts.

I don't doubt that I can make a smaller table, but I'm a little confused how to make a table that is the full width/length of the machines table. I'm not sure how to go about the clamping to the table. Since I will need to flycut both sides before I drill/tap any holes.

I figured it would be easier for someone with a larger mill to make something like this.

[motomitch1]

You dont drill holes into the table the holes are just in the plate and then bolt to the table T slots.

[phantomcow2]

Originally Posted by Deviant I have no plans to drill into the actually machine plate. This would have negative effects on it's retail value. The plan was to make a plate that is the full length/width of the existing table. And never remove that place. Additional fixtures would be made to mount onto that plate in a manner that allows you to switch out for each machine process. I will be doing alot of one-off type stuff. But I have a few items that I will make several off. This is what I'm looking to speed up. I'm also looking at the possibility of utilizing homing switchs so I can dummy proof the parts. I don't doubt that I can make a smaller table, but I'm a little confused how to make a table that is the full width/length of the machines table. I'm not sure how to go about the clamping to the table. Since I will need to flycut both sides before I drill/tap any holes. I figured it would be easier for someone with a larger mill to make something like this.

This is how we do it for one of the machines at work. I've never actually seen that mill table. The entire table is covered with a slab of 1.5" thick steel. The steel has many drilled and tapped holes in it, probably enough for 15 or so fixtures. When this machine makes a part, it usually is going to be making a lot. So we just switch the fixtures, it does not take long to setup then.

How about buying a piece of precut steel (precut on the outer dimensions) a little smaller in length than the mill table. Clamp it down on the outer edges. Now run a CNC program which will drill the holes for everything you need. Save a few holes to mount the plate to the table, and one a program again to face it all perfectly flat and as smooth as you can get it.

[dcprecision]

Deviant: There is no need to have a plate larger than the machine travel capability which is actually shorter than the actual table. You can do a decent job fly cutting it on the machine you are using it for. Presuming that the machine table is dead flat within .0005, you can move the plate a bit during cutting without affecting outcome. by repositioning clamps, you can work your way around the slab. One thing to pay attention to is that most aluminum extrusions are not flat. When you begin, take time to find the best surface to place against the machine table. Also do not distort the piece when clamping it. Take very light cuts on the first side and work slowly. once one side is cut, it will sit flat on the machine table. So far as pinning the table is concerned, drilling and reaming 4 - .251 id - .500 deep precision holes along the back edge x axis and 2 on the left side along the y axis goes, this will not devalue the machine at all. Once explained to a potential buyer, the benefit is apparent. So far as bolting parts fixtures to the base plate goes, without also having locating pins for accurate positioning bolts will not give you the accuracy needed for very close tolerance because you need more hole clearance than with a dowel pin. You really need to devise a system using both bolts and pins.