Are you sure you didn't turn the lock "on"?
Hoss
Well after hearing people say that "Vertex" rotary tables are of reasonably good quality, I bought the 6" table.
I took it out of the box, cleaned it off, rotated the worm gear engagement handle (if that's what you would call it) to the "on" position, turned the handle clockwise a few revolutions..and then it bound up and wouldn't turn any more.
Are these things are supposed to work out-of-the-box, or do you have to take them all apart and screw around with them?
I'm starting to get really sick and tired of Chinese hardware and the poor documentation that comes with it...
Are you sure you didn't turn the lock "on"?
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
You should not have to take it apart, but any rotary table will require careful adjustment of the worm gear to get smooth operation with minimal backlash.
Regards,
Ray L.
Hello Hoss,
The thing is, the table rotates fine until it gets to one particular spot, then it just binds up.
Notwithstanding the binding issue, I have to say I don't like the general quality of it very much either. For example, there are two clamps to lock the table, and each one has a little handle. The handles have a ball on one end and are threaded on the other end. They didn't even bother to mill wrench flats on the handles to facilitate tightening them down. Rather, they just grabbed the handles with pliers or something and tightened it that way, putting substantial gouges in the handles in the process. I can't believe they did that. Maybe I'm being too picky, but that alone actually makes me not trust this manufacturer.
Hello Ray,
Thanks for the reply.
Could the worm gear be so out-of-adjustment that the table binds up in a certain spot?
There is a crappy little booklet that came with it that mentions adjusting the worm gear engagement "if necessary", but both the pictures and the very brief instructions (in Chinglish) are essentially worthless.
After messing around with it a little bit, I got it working fairly well, so I guess I'll keep it.
But where can I get T-nuts for this thing?
LMS.
Search - LittleMachineShop.com
Read Chris Tips under any of the t-nuts here for example to see the actual dimensions to match your slots.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
Hello Hoss,
Thanks. I've got one more question if you don't mind.
I measured the width of the slots in the rotary table, and they're about 0.43"; so I apparently need the 7/16" nuts.
I know the nuts that came with the SX2 mini-mill are a little too big to fit the rotary table...they measure about 0.47", which is about 12mm.
If I understand correctly, the 7/16" nuts will work in both the rotary table and the mini-mill X-Y table (even though they're a little smaller than the 12 mm nuts that came with the mill).
So I'm thinking that if I get this kit from Shars, it should work with both. Is that correct?
Regards,
Nelson
That should do the job for both. You can always mill some of your own t-nuts too if you need extra thanks to Chris's dimensions.
Hoss
http://www.hossmachine.info - Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- http://www.g0704.com - http://www.bf20.com - http://www.g0602.com
I needed some 1/4-20 t nuts for fixturing that had small space so I just made some. CRS worked great. These also ended up being prefect for putting threaded rod through 123 blocks to mount them to the table.
"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRsRRka7dFQ&list=UUQNFF7xG2J4XqpSuhP6ewUA&index=2&feature=plcp"]X3 CNC MILL- Cutting steel 1/4-20 T Nuts - YouTube