G0704 build

[USN]

Hey Folks;

I did break in on my new Mill. Seems to work, one issue in rev in high range only got 1350 rpm. Forward worked great. Ran it in 10 minute blocks. Motor and Spindle got warm, could touch but kinda hot to hold hand on for long. Ran quiet , A little tightness when moving Quill in high-range at 1.5 -m 2.0 inch travel.

Mitch ....

[lcvette]

Congrats on getting your new mill! my motor and spindle also got warm upon delivery. My motor didn't make it past the break in period for it bit the dust. they shipped a new motor right out though. I now use a treadmill motor like Hoss, but would like to go to a spindle servo or something different. if you plan on CNCing it, I would highly recomment doing the bearing upgrade and go to a different motor. my replacement motor would get so hot you couldn't touch it after cutting a part for 20-30 minutes.

Again congrats on the purchase, it is terribly fun and addictive to mod these mills!

Chris

[hive8]

Congratulations on your new mill, and happy CNC'ing...

[Mad Welder]

..... in rev in high range only got 1350 rpm.....

Hi there USN and welcome....not to worry either as if the G0704's motor is like the BF20 (which I asume they're similar) they state somewhere in the manual that in rev you'll only get an average 50% of normal running RPM.....

and post loads of pics.... for those of us who prefer not to read

[USN]

Thanks Folks, That's good news on Motor. I will get pics uploaded. I need to get some tooling now.

Mitch ...

[USN]

Hello all; I have most of the stuff for conversion now. Got the Kl-5056D and the Kl -8070D drivers. Do you wire them like the 5056s ? Don't see a wiring diagram for the Digital drivers. Is it the same as the standard drivers? I got the 4 axis control box. The Kl-4813 Power Supply is a tight fit in the box, but I can get it in there. I might have to trim the base a bit. Should I use the same shielded wire for wiring the inside of the Box ? I downloaded info on all the stuff I got. Do I need the ProTuner software for tuning motors? I know Mach 3 does that too.

Lots of ? Sorry..... Mitch (USN)

[hoss2006]

There's some wiring instructions here, G0704 Electronics
You don't need the tuner software, it's easier to just set the jumpers yourself.
If you have any problems there are several threads on these drivers in the automation technology forum.
Automation Technology Products - CNCzone.com-The Largest Machinist Community on the net!
Also my email is always open, hoss@g0704.com
Hoss

[691175002]

Note page 23 of the 5052 manual:

Motor auto-identification and parameter auto-configuration technology of the KL-5056D
can replace manual tuning the driver with ProTuner. Just changes SW4 two times in 1 second, and
then the driver will auto-identify the new motor and auto-configure related control parameters for
optimum responses. Recommend use this function after changing the driven motor.

Once the motor is attached to your mill, just toggle sw4 twice for optimal performance.

The motor will move a few degrees during the tuning process.

[wizard]

The design of the motor plays a significant role in what can be considered too hot to touch. For example a permant magnet DC motor that gets hot on the case may be a problem as the heat generation area, the windings on the rotor are a long way from that surface. More importantly that heat is traveling through the magnets which can be damaged from that heat.

On the other hand stepper motors, AC induction motors and DC brushless motors have their windings in the stator with a veru short coupling distance to the rotors outer shell. These types of motors can get extremely hot on those surfaces and still operate for years. How hot depends upon the manufacturing and design but some of these motors operate at temperature that would be dangerous to touch. In the end you need the manufactures data sheet and a temperature probe to determine if the motor is too hot.

Congrats on getting your new mill! my motor and spindle also got warm upon delivery. My motor didn't make it past the break in period for it bit the dust. they shipped a new motor right out though. I now use a treadmill motor like Hoss, but would like to go to a spindle servo or something different. if you plan on CNCing it, I would highly recomment doing the bearing upgrade and go to a different motor. my replacement motor would get so hot you couldn't touch it after cutting a part for 20-30 minutes.

Again congrats on the purchase, it is terribly fun and addictive to mod these mills!

Chris

[USN]

Hello All, I have done a lot on the Mill Conversion. I put a oiling system on it,

Finished All the parts for Phase 1 mod. Got all the electronics, and started to Wire them up. But when I put the Z axis coupling on the two nuts, they backed off and became loose. I pulled it back apart, and re tighten it. Should I use Loc Tite on it ? I made the coupler from Hoss's plans with the set screws. Thanks Hoss for great DVD, very nice. Soon, Belt drive mod.... I will have to post Pics...

Any ideas ?? Thanks Folks...... Mitch .....

[hoss2006]

Loctite those puppies.
Hoss

[Connor9220]

Loctite those puppies.
Hoss

I had the same issue. In fact, I wasn't paying attention and spun the nuts right off the screw and the Z fell and crashed. No damage. I didn't loctite them because I was trying to adjust the preload. Don't recall if I ever did loctite the.