BF20L CNC

[hoss2006]

That's a great response from Pat, very professional like you want.
I can understand not wanting to repack it all though.
The machined surfaces are what's important, like the dovetails, if you can get to shiny metal pretty quick with steel wool
it should be fine, make sure to clean it real good and oil it up to prevent more rusting while you take it apart for modeling.
Is there a manufacture date on the front panel, it's likely only a few months old so it shouldn't be in that bad of shape.
If the rust is more than cosmetic you should just bite the bullet and pack it up
better to have a nice new machine that you paid for, just ask Pat to inspect the replacement before it ships, don't want one that could be in worse shape.
Hoss

[bonmotwang]

Hi Hoss. I will start cleaning the rust as my next step. If it turned out really bad, then I will do the exchange later.
I think this is the best solution on my side for now. I believe it works for Pat too. I have informed Pat by email this is what I am going to do.
I will update this thread with my every move.
It may turn out to be a good opportunity for myself to know more about milling machine. (I always treat things from the plus side first :-D)


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[Mad Welder]

Again can't add any more than what Hoss said it's good advice and to be honest I would expect that steel wool should rid the surface rust too....

I come from the heavy mechanical construction industry myself (in a previous life) and I’m sure Hoss could also testify to what I’m saying next….. I’ve been in similar positions as you find yourself now in on a few occasions more often than not the shipped part (36” Gate Valve, 24” 300LB Weldneck flange, etc….) can be cleaned (with a bit of elbow grease, and sweating) and as the supplier in your case Pat has also come across very professionally you might be able to use this to your advantage as you still require more mechanical hardware and you could push for a good discount as a professional courtesy on his part…

[bonmotwang]

Pat went down today with a new stand. We had a good chat, much more than just cleaning out the rust. A lot of rust, but it is behind of us. We discussed a lot about the business. He has his passion in his business, which is one of the most important keys to be success.
I think I will test out the mill a little bit then take it apart ASAP to totally clean it up including rust, thick grease, etc.
Not sure about the "take it apart" steps.
I think head first. Then the column. Then the saddle. ?



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[hoss2006]

Chances are the table and saddle are the places that will need attention first.
Give the inside of the spindle and the column ways a wipe with some oil so they won't rust if it'll be a while till you get to them.
Hoss

[bonmotwang]

Got a chance to do a little more. I was manually moving the Z up and down. I found that to move the Z up, I almost need both hands on the handle to do it. Moving down is very smooth and easy by one hand.
Is this normal?

[Mad Welder]

There's a possibility that the Gib positioning/adjusting screws are a bit loose and as the Gib is tappered when you lift the head the Gib just tightens between the column dovetail and the Z saddle, try tightening the bottom Gib screw a bit and try it again and repeat as nessesary and you may have to adjust the top screw also as nessesary......then when you're happy with the free running up and down a tighter adjustment will reduce play and backlash but again too tight well you know the rest....

[Mystichrome]

Got a chance to do a little more. I was manually moving the Z up and down. I found that to move the Z up, I almost need both hands on the handle to do it. Moving down is very smooth and easy by one hand.
Is this normal?

Another possibility could be the Z leadscrew nut. After dissassembling my machine I had trouble going back up like you describe. I could feel some binding however. The fix was to raise the head just about all the way up and loosen the 2 screws on the nut(don't loosen too much and you'll need to loosen the head and rotate it 90 degrees to get to the screws), give the head a moment to settle and then re-tighten the screws. Hoss mentions this in his z-axis calibration video.

[hoss2006]

Got a chance to do a little more. I was manually moving the Z up and down. I found that to move the Z up, I almost need both hands on the handle to do it. Moving down is very smooth and easy by one hand.
Is this normal?

Like has been said there are a couple things that could correct that and now
when you go to put it back together you should be able to get it together without the binding.
It's usually the Z nut needing readjustment side to side when the slide is at the top but there are a couple occasions where it needed a shim to push it farther back so the screw didn't pinch.
Hoss

[bonmotwang]

Thank you guys. I will take one step a time to correct them. Haven't plugged it in yet. Or "just do it"?
Anything I need to check before I plug it in in my case?



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[hoss2006]

Are you doing the spindle breakin? might be a good before you take her apart.
If you're gonna go crazy taking the head apart you'll have to do it again but going
that complete isn't necessary for a normal breakdown and cleaning.
Leave that for when you go with a belt drive.
Hoss

[bonmotwang]

Ok Hoss I will do break in as the next step.


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