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Does anyone have any good wiring diagrams or threads to read about wiring breakout boards (specifically the C10)? I've looked at their pdf diagrams but can't make much sense of them. I've done searching but just can't find a complete guide with BOB, drives, home, and limit switches. All I can find are bits here and there about various things with various amounts of info. I would really appreciate if anyone could give me a link to complete noob wiring guide.
What I'm really confused about are the COM terminals and why do all the drives share one?
Why do you wire an E-stop into the board? I thought you wired it straight to the stepper power supply?
What gauge wires does one use to drive 5a steppers at 48v? Can I use shielded 18 awg for everything?
I'm a mean machine with a soldering iron and I've done my share of basic dc stuff, but wiring a whole CNC mill looks pretty terrifying at best. I'm planning a BF20 build and I'm actually considering going with a G540 over C10/KL-6050's just for the ease of wiring. If I had a nice clear wiring diagram in English (not Engrish) I would feel much better.
Short for Common Ground on the BOB.COM terminals
Who told you that?I thought you wired it straight to the stepper power supply?
So why are you having difficulty understanding the BOB wiring up,pretty straight forward really.I'm a mean machine with a soldering iron and I've done my share of basic dc stuff,
I don't have a C10, nor do I have a wiring diagram for you, but that won't prevent me from offering some comments. :-)Originally Posted by hndswthtshdws
A lot of the confusion about wiring with a C10 is a result of the flexibility offered by the board's many jumper options. For example, depending on your needs, you might select a jumper option that sets the COM terminals to either +5 volts or ground.
So, you might find that using a less-capable breakout board than the C10 might be less confusing.
Perhaps the following info would be helpful:
If your BOB is connected to motor drivers having optoisolated inputs for the step and direction signals, then there are (at least) two different ways of doing the wiring - one way uses a common ground whereas the other way uses a common +5 volt terminal.
Each of the step (or direction) signal(s) from the BOB must be able to turn on the corresponding LED inside of the associated optoisolated input terminal of the driver.
In general, to turn on an LED, you would connect (for example) +5 volts to the LED anode (possibly through a series, inline current-limiting resistor), and then connect the LED cathode to ground.
To switch the LED off you could then either disconnect the anode from the +5 volt terminal (which would stop the current from flowing through the LED), or you could "lift" the cathode from the ground (which would also stop the current from flowing through the LED).
In the first instance, you are switching the current source, whereas in the second instance you are switching the current "sink".
Some breakout board designs are able to switch the current source (from the step or direction signal), while others may only be able to switch the current sink. The C10 is flexible enough to handle either connection.
So, if you wire up the circuit to switch the current source, the step signal (for example) from the BOB is connected to the step + input (LED anode) of the driver (sometimes labeled PULS+), and the LED cathode (sometimes labeled PULS-) is connected to the BOB GND (COM) terminal.
If, instead, you wired up the circuit to switch the current sinking via the step signal from the BOB, then you would connect a steady +5 volt signal from the BOB COM terminal to the driver's LED anode (the PULS+ input), and wire the step signal line to the LED cathode (the PULS-) terminal. (You would have to set the jumper on the C10 to put +5 volts onto the COM pins).
If you go back and review the C10 documentation with the above in mind, it may make more sense now. (Or not.)
Isn't the purpose of an E-stop to stop the machine and bring it to a safe state?
My understanding is that the E-stop big red button should remove power to the positioning motors and the spindle. Doesn't matter what the software is doing or what random noise is being picked up or what is smoking, everything stops.
For broken cutters or other conditions where you don't want to re-zero you would use a software E-stop?
Doorknob; Thank you, the pdf manuals make a lot more sense now. Can motor drivers be wired for either source or sink switching or is it model specific?
I believe that it would be best to consider it to be model specific.
For example, it is possible that some drivers could have built-in current-limiting resistors (which might be placed on either the anode or cathode of the optoisolator LED, and which therefore might constrain the application to prefer one style of drive over the other).
A proper E-Stop WILL be wired either directly, or through simple logic (NOT include ANY software!), in such a way that hitting the E-Stop switch positively turns off EVERYTHING. It should stop all axis drive motors, by disconnecting the AC supply to the driver power supply (NOT by disconnecting the DC supply!), and turning off spindle, coolant, and any other outputs that could possibly cause a hazard if left on. Wiring it into the BOB ensures this. Any BOB with an E-Stop, or Enable input, will force ALL outputs to their inactive state when the E-Stop or enable is in its active state. Simply feeding an E-Stop signal into Mach3 is a BAD way to do it, as Mach3 can "lose it's mind", and ignore the E-Stop input.
Even 22ga wire is quite adequate for steppers. Shielding may be helpful, just for avoiding interference with other electrical/electronic devices, particularly radios. Be sure the shields are connected ONLY at the driver end, NOT at the motor end. Connecting both ends of a shield can completely negate its value as a shield.
Regards,
Ray L.
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