My Sieg X1 micro mill

[Memran]

Hello!

I've been meaning to post about my little mill for a while and now in response to a PM (better late than never!) I'm finally getting around to doing it!

I am very much a beginner at this, and am making it all up as I go...

So here it is:


Motor mounts:


I needed to machine the stock lead screws to be able to tension the thrust bearings and to use a sping flexible coupling.

The Z axis:

I realise the gears are less than ideal, and are adding a lot of backlash, but the motor (or PSU or driver) is just too weak for direct drive.

Air block:


3" Vice and old 240mm table:


Bambi silent compressor:


El Cheapo driver and PSU:

The driver is a 4-axis Chinese TB6560. I know a lot of people have issues with them, but its so cheap, it is worth the risk. So far it has been fine!

Modified computer PSU, giving out 24v 15A:


4th Axis work in progress:
This is a headstock from a 7x12 lathe:
The timing pulley was milled (3 axis) from 1/2" nylon66, using a 3mm end mill.


Timing belt check:


Keyway:


I Need a bigger shop!


And finally, here's a little youtube video of it moving, and of me rambling on, randomly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3CfjR6MSP0c]Overview of my cnc X1 mill.mp4 - YouTube

Questions, comments, feedback, cookies, all gratefully received!

[Memran]

After reading more here about other people's builds I think the motors are too weak, especially for Z.

X,Y and Z are 57BYGH728, which have a rated holding torque of 18Kg.cm (1.77 N.m, 250 oz.in) and I think this is just not enough to move the head effectively, hence I had to gear it down. Only getting 500mm/min X and Y, 200mm/min Z

I have a 60BYGH301 which I am planning to use for my 4th, rated at 32 Kg.cm (3.1 N.m, 439 oz.in).

Do you guys think the 60's would be significantly better, enough to warrant buying 3 to replace the 57's?

[Arich0908]

Thank you for the build ,
Have you thought of doing a belt kit for the x1? Maybe treadmill motor?

Can you go into full detail about your ball screws? P/n what it took to mount them everything?
Also I think if you over volt those motors you can get more power out them then they may go quicker.
For the Z axis maybe you should use either a bigger motor or a weight on a cable .

[Al_The_Man]

Questions, comments, feedback, cookies, all gratefully received!

Is that a Aluminum or stainless coupling?
Aluminum is not really a good idea for motor drive.
Stainless is the way to go IMO.
I leave the aluminum type for encoders etc.
Al.

[hoss2006]

After reading more here about other people's builds I think the motors are too weak, especially for Z.

X,Y and Z are 57BYGH728, which have a rated holding torque of 18Kg.cm (1.77 N.m, 250 oz.in) and I think this is just not enough to move the head effectively, hence I had to gear it down. Only getting 500mm/min X and Y, 200mm/min Z

I have a 60BYGH301 which I am planning to use for my 4th, rated at 32 Kg.cm (3.1 N.m, 439 oz.in).

Do you guys think the 60's would be significantly better, enough to warrant buying 3 to replace the 57's?

The problem is the Chinese driver, I have one and they are WEAK.
You'd be surprised how much better you can run if you give the motors the amperage and voltage they require.
Where did you get the motors? Have any specs like amps/phase, inductance/phase on them?
The main problem is only running 24 volts most likely.
Chances are those motors would be much better off at 48V but don't know without knowing the specs.
Hoss

[Memran]

Thank you for the build ,
Have you thought of doing a belt kit for the x1? Maybe treadmill motor?

Can you go into full detail about your ball screws? P/n what it took to mount them everything?
Also I think if you over volt those motors you can get more power out them then they may go quicker.
For the Z axis maybe you should use either a bigger motor or a weight on a cable .

Yes indeed, a belt drive conversion is on my to-do list, but its a very long list!

I have not used ballscrews yet. I am still running the stock ACME lead screws. Again, its on my list...

Is that a Aluminum or stainless coupling?
Aluminum is not really a good idea for motor drive.
Stainless is the way to go IMO.
I leave the aluminum type for encoders etc.
Al.

They are aluminium. Is it really that bad?

The problem is the Chinese driver, I have one and they are WEAK.
You'd be surprised how much better you can run if you give the motors the amperage and voltage they require.
Where did you get the motors? Have any specs like amps/phase, inductance/phase on them?
The main problem is only running 24 volts most likely.
Chances are those motors would be much better off at 48V but don't know without knowing the specs.
Hoss

The chinese driver may well be weak, and for that price (£60) I can't really expect it to perform as well as "proper" drivers.

The max current of the TB6560 is 3A, which means that I have to connect the motors on series.

57BYGH728: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/60412649/57BYGH728.pdf
60BYGH301B: http://dl.dropbox.com/u/60412649/60BYGH301B.PDF

If I connect in parallel, the current per phase is 4.2A, and I am worried that it will fry the driver (3A max).

I have purchased a 36v 10A power supply to replace my modified computer PSU. It has voltage adjustment on it, so I set it at the minimum which is 32v. The driver manual says max of 30, but what is 2 volts between friends?

X and Y rapids can now actually be considered "rapid" ! I now get 2500mm/min (98 ipm) on both X and Y!

The Z is still aweful. 150mm/min (5.9 ipm) and makes nasty noises. I suspect the mount and the leadscrew are not perfectly aligned or something.

Here's a video to show new speeds:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5mgFpzdWHRI]X1 mill, better rapids.mp4 - YouTube

Side note: I've made the T5 timing pulley for my motor too, so now just waiting for some aluminium stock to arrive so I can make a mount.



Turn your volume down for this:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HqidClqafT0]Making timing pulley for motor.mp4 - YouTube

Thanks guys

[Al_The_Man]

They are aluminium. Is it really that bad?

Thanks guys

They don't take to a great deal of flexing or 'wind-up' they can fail prematurely because of this, if you do get a failure down the road, replace with stainless.
Al.

[Memran]

Thanks
So I'll run them until they break then

[Arich0908]

Here is a really good site to look at . Its about modifying the x1 using ballscrews.
Here is a pic of my treadmill motor upgrade . I cant tell you the difference it has made. It was like night and day. If you need details I would be more than willing to help you.

[cyclestart]

I Need a bigger shop!

I'll assume this is a one man shop

The Z axis screw is gear driven ? Is this the source of some of the noise ?

[Memran]

Here is a really good site to look at . Its about modifying the x1 using ballscrews.
Here is a pic of my treadmill motor upgrade . I cant tell you the difference it has made. It was like night and day. If you need details I would be more than willing to help you.

That would be great, but I think the forum ate your link!
A more powerful motor would certainly help, but is the X1 rigid enough to take it?

I'll assume this is a one man shop

The Z axis screw is gear driven ? Is this the source of some of the noise ?

Yea my 'shop' is actually a 12'x6' garden shed! It is pretty much the only reason why I have not upgraded to a larger mill.

The Z is gear driven, and probably is contributing to the noise, but it is only noisy when going up.

[Arich0908]

lol ooooppps ............
Brian Dorey.com | Axminster SIEG Super X1 Micro-Mill Ballscrew Upgrade and Modifications

Yes it is. Have you mounted your x1 yet? You would be surprised the difference it makes just properly bolting it to the table. I used industrial rubber feet also . Big difference. When I added the Tread mill motor , now I can cut steel. Before I couldn't.

My X1 has a ER32 collet set on it. I also added a 5/6 in z spacer. Im hopping to get into foundry metal pouring to build a bigger better column.