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Thread: Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)

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    Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)

    All,

    Slowly, I am starting to get the hang of this mini mill thing. Cut a few jobs manually on the mill with great results. It was fun using the dials to get really good accuracy. Did a belt conversion. Ordered and installed the CNC Fusion Kit #4 with preloaded ball nuts and upgraded couplers. Worked out my alignment issues. Got a Gecko G540 and 48V supply. Got Mach3 up and running and had fun building a few parts in CamBam.

    Now, I need to get a homing system set up on the mill. Does anyone have any pictures of the homing switches attached to the X2 mill? I can think of a few spots, but all require drilling, tapping and likely some kind of bracket to touch the switch. I'm wondering what the tried and true solution is.

    Seeing the install locations will likely answer the following questions, but I'm having trouble figuring out the conventional orientation and coordinate system used for milling. Where is X0 and Y0? Is it with the X table all the way to the right (long end to the right of the column) and the Y table all the out toward the front (furthest from the column)? That seems to make the most sense since X+ would move the table left, but move the spindle from left to right in a conventional positive direction. Similarly, Y+ would move the table toward the column, but move the spindle from front to back. I understand the convention for the Z axis is Z0 at the top of the travel and Z- would be plunging into the workpiece. I hope that isn't confusing. I watched the videos on the Mach3 website and they helped tremendously, but you only see screenshots of the Mach3 software as he talks, not of the machine itself.

    Thanks for any advice!

    Jeff


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    I have 2 small mills. My Dyna was already equipped with its switches and a homing routine. Upon start up, my table moves all of the way to the right (X) and touches the switch, then backs off a predetermined amount. It also moves rearward (Y) or away from the operator and basically repeats the same as mentioned for X. Z goes to the top, hits the switch and backs off also. I will have to check on the Z but I believe this is a positive number such as whatever the max Z travel is. Z 0 is the uppermost plane of your workpiece (absolutely double check as this is just my understanding). Also there are various coordinates being used ie: machine and work. I hope I didnt just make it more confusing. For me though the Z is always just starting to cut my workpiece with a negative number (lower than 0). I am sure that is not the right or only way by any means and any further clarification is definitely appreciated.


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    Quote Originally Posted by Fastest1 View Post
    I have 2 small mills. My Dyna was already equipped with its switches and a homing routine. Upon start up, my table moves all of the way to the right (X) and touches the switch, then backs off a predetermined amount. It also moves rearward (Y) or away from the operator and basically repeats the same as mentioned for X.
    Thanks for the info Fastest1. I agree the convention seems to be that Z- is plunging into the part. My question really came from the difficulty I seemed to be having getting the motion on the table to match the motion tracked by Mach3. The axes were "inverted" so the cutting was upside down to what Mach3 thought was happening. In the end, the part was correct, just upside down. But, I believe I worked it out.


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    Does anybody have pictures / write-up on installing homing switches on an X2 mill? I would be very interested to see the various solutions.

    Jeff


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    Here is a video that shows how I mounted my X axis switch. The Y is not a tab but a full length vane that allows light when the limit is reached rather than the tab blocking the light when the limit is reached. Sorry but it was much to dark under the table to show the Y mount.

    RWW

    [nomedia="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COfD11QsGHU"]YouTube - Home Switches.dv[/nomedia]


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    Holy moly Batman, those are some serious motors you got on your axis. What size are they? What are your screws, and do you ever have lost steps? I'm impressed!


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    I really like Degreaser's limit switches. X2 Y Axis Way Extension Y axis pictures start post 122, and X start 185 with the Z somewhere in the middle. You need access to another mill to implement his design though


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    Here is the model number of the motor I used for all three axis on my machine. They are 381 oz-in that I bought from Keling. KL23H2100-35-4B

    The ball screws are Roton that I bought from Hoss through his website.

    RWW


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    Quote Originally Posted by MrWild View Post
    I really like Degreaser's limit switches. X2 Y Axis Way Extension Y axis pictures start post 122, and X start 185 with the Z somewhere in the middle. You need access to another mill to implement his design though
    MrWild, that is EXACTLY what I was looking for. Thank you. I had seen "Bill's post" that Degreaser references, but it was only one or two pictures. This is much more detailed. As you note, though, you need another mill to implement. I'm wondering if I can modify the design somewhat to implement without a second mill. We'll see. Thanks again.

    JWeb


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    Here's what I did...

    Maybe not fancy, but works well.
    Cheers! -4ist
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)-img_0057.jpg   Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)-img_0058.jpg   Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)-img_0134.jpg  


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    optical limit switches

    Here are some sealed opticals I made similar to the IH ones.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)-021.jpg   Homing switches on Sieg X2 (Micro-Mark mill)-022.jpg  
    ...He who makes no mistakes makes nothing! ...
    Tom


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    Quote Originally Posted by tpworks View Post
    Here are some sealed opticals I made similar to the IH ones.
    Nice, this is what i want to do with X2 #2. How did you wire your opticals to the control? Any chance of a behind the cover shot? How did you seal the rods? Garlock (type) seals, or just close fitting pass holes? I want to make mine adjustable and your design is better than the one I had been thinking about. IMO your's are the best I've seen so far.


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