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Thread: A Digital read out ? on our BenchMills

  1. #1
    Registered Arich0908's Avatar
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    A Digital read out ? on our BenchMills

    I want to buy a DRO system .
    I was going to use the digital ruler type scales .

    Have any of you used this type system?
    How do you fit them exactly to your mill?
    My X axis will be 330mm (Im buying a x axis extension also)so it will be just over 13in.
    The scales are sold in 12 and 16 in from what i found. Do I cut a ruler down to size? I really dont want to fabricate a huge bracket hanging over the end of the mill. It looks as if the end piece comes off . If so I may be able the cut it down to the proper size.
    i dunno some input would be great.

    Here is the system I was talking bought .
    http://www.shars.com/products/view/2...igital_Display


  2. #2
    Registered knudsen's Avatar
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    I made a z-axis DRO from cheap calipers and just made some brackets and used rare earth magnets from HF to mount. You could use the magnets with a purchased DRO as well. I use three at each end, one would suffice if you use larger ones. 1 magnet from an old hard drive on each end would definitely be strong enough. I'm a tight (_!_)


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    DRO will save you tons of time !!! I just removed my Shumatech and scales from my SX3 when I CNC'd it. I wanted to keep it but space was very limited.


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    Registered Arich0908's Avatar
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    rwskinner
    Is your kit for sale?

    knudsen, Or Ne 1
    Are the end of the scales able to be unscrewed and trimmed down.
    I would rather buy more scale than I need and trim it down than end up short.

    Also what process do you use to tram your spindle head to your table?

    Any one who comes across this here is a great how to that was PMed to me

    http://www.hossmachine.info/projects.html


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    Registered Teyber12's Avatar
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    i would go straight to CNC. you can use cnc as a manual system with a dro if you want or you can write programs and go that way. best of both worlds and not a whole lot more then a dro for a x1, since you would not be replacing the leadscrews anyways.

    cheers


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    Registered Arich0908's Avatar
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    Teyber12
    What do the lead screws do? I mean I know what they do but does changing them really have that much effect on the use of the mill? Should I change mine?

    I just made a order for metal to finish putting together my X1 belt kit .
    I have my pulleys and belt all ready along with motor and controller.
    I bought a 3in thick piece of aluminum im going to make a Z axis spacer after the LMS kit I order comes in. Ill have to wait to Friday to order it.
    Is 6061 ok to use as a Z spacer hope so...
    Then on to the Dro scales.
    .................What did I original come here to make .... I forgot , there was I reason I bought a mill . Ill remember some day
    Last edited by Arich0908; 04-27-2010 at 04:50 PM.


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    I don't think there is any theoretical issue in cutting the scale down at the ends but since it's hardened stainless that might not be so easy to do. The little clamps at the ends do come off and I disposed of them on mine.

    It should be fairly simple, minus clearance issues, to get them mounted. I just made my own clamps that mounted to the existing dovetail slot and nuts in the front of X table. Made a mount that matched the rear mounting screws on the electronic slider and drilled/tapped to fix that to the saddle. I have it mounted by one hole right now and should have the other finished this week. You'd have to drill and tap the table as well for the ruler clamps on the X1.

    PM-25-MV (BF L Type) Conversion / Mods

    I plan to CNC mine as soon as I recover from my rape on April 15th by Uncle Sam but at a couple hundred for the scales and time invested in making the mounts I'll have an inexpensive digital readout on the mill axis and that helps, even if it's just the scale display. I'm not going the full Shumatech route, just wanted something to help out for the months it will take to make the conversion.

    If you mount them in a visible orientation on yours then you could do the same for little expense while you work on the CNC conversion.


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    Registered knudsen's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Arich0908 View Post
    rwskinner


    Are the end of the scales able to be unscrewed and trimmed down.
    You could trim back the calipers, I would guess so on DRO's that are similar to calipers (ie the cheaper DRO's). I did the opposite, trimming the head of the sliding half of the caliper, to allow it to go into the stationary electronic part.


    Also what process do you use to tram your spindle head to your table?
    I just mount a DTI in the spindle and turn it, then tap the column towards the higher end. Trial and error. I use one of these to mount the DTI:

    http://lmscnc.com/3771

    You can also just make something to mount in a collet and hold the DTI. Maybe just use one of these bases with the magnet screwed off, and the shaft in a collet:


  • #9
    Registered Arich0908's Avatar
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    I was thinking bout buying a protram.
    Its pretty much two plunger type scales on a mount conected by a Weldon shank.


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    I saw something in a magazine a while back that now makes more sense that I have a mill, LOL...

    A guy had a brake rotor he would put on the mill table for tramming. That way he could sweep the whole diameter of the rotor with a DTI to tram left/right and front/back without having to lift the needle off. I thnk it may have been a new rotor.... but I think even new ones for some cars are maybe $25? I'm not sure if maybe a used one would be even better.... they seem to get pretty polished from the brake pads.


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