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  1. #61
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Smile Oldham Coupler completed

    Ok, I finished milling my Y-axis bushing and integrated Oldham Coupler. Here are a couple of photos:



    full size photo here



    full size photo here

    It may be ugly but it is my coupler so I guess I have to love it.

    The insert is Delrin. It slides freely but there is no noticeable backlash. I cut it 1/2 of a BCH oversize and then used a very fine tooth file to hand fit it. the Delrin insert was the most difficult part to make but at least Delrin machines easily. I'll probably make a CNC version when my mill is operational - unless this one works really well and I get busy doing other things

    cheers,
    Michael

    Last edited by mhackney; 03-31-2009 at 09:15 PM.
    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  2. #62
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    Nice job on the coupler. I can't wait to see what you make with the cnc.

    Mike

    Warning: DIY CNC may cause extreme hair loss due to you pulling your hair out.


  3. #63
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Thanks Mike, I hope I can keep plodding along and actually get the thing working! I think the X axis will be a bit easier since it already has bearings and I'll be using the same coupler design.

    I plan to use this in a number of my hobbies but the motivator to go CNC is to mill reels for fly fishing. Most of the parts are turned but the fancy cutouts on the spools are best done on a mill and CNC will let me do some cool stuff. Of course, that means I need to get my table outfitted as a 4th axis too.

    cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  4. #64
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Default Y axis mount complete!

    Ok, I have completed the Y axis mount, disassembled the mill, cleaned everything and started reassembling with the new Y mount.

    I split the nut and drilled and tapped for 2 10-32 cap screws. I am able to tweak the nut ever so slightly to take up all of the slop and still have free rotation (in a Lithium greased screw). I am really excited! Before, the backlash at the nut was obvious simply by pushing and pulling the Y table back and forth. Now it is rock solid (to the feel anyway, I'll measure later)!



    Installing the new motor mount went without a hitch. I retapped the original 2 holes that held the original crank mount to 1/4-20 and drilled and tapped a 3rd hole to attach my new mount to the mill.



    full size photo

    I then attached the 4 motor stand-off posts to the thick mount with 1/4-20 cap screws and cleaned everything up.

    I cleaned and greased my new thrust bearings and assembled them to the mount, inserted the Y screw, threaded on the split nut and bolted on the mount. Everything lined up great.

    Then I slid the bushing (see previous posts) with its greased end up against the outside thrust bearing. I used the original crank handle's washer and 2 nuts to snug everything up tight. The screw rotates freely and the thrust bearings really remove the "slop" that the original Y had without the thrust bearings. I then tightened the 3 set screws on the bushing to fix it to the screw and slid the new coupler (with the integrated Oldham coupler) over it, loosely screwing the set screws. I then greased the Oldham's Delrin insert with white lithium grease and assembled it. I then slid the stepper motor axel into the Oldham coupler and bolted the motor to the mount's standoffs with 10-32 cap head screws. Everything went together easily and alignment seems to be good. Once the motor was mounted, I snugged up the Oldham coupler and tightened all of the set screws to hold everything in place.

    I then adjusted the split Y nut by moving the table all the way out (towards motor) and then tightening down the setscrew that holds the nut in place.

    Here's another angle:



    full size photo

    Now I am going to assemble my electronics (Gecko G540 and power supply) and try to get the Y to actually move!

    cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  5. #65
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    Great looking work there Michael.

    Gosh, you've... really got some nice toys here. - Roy Batty -- [URL]http://www.g0704.com[/URL]


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    Looking great man! Be sure and triple check your wiring before you apply power. If you do happen to manage to blow the fuse on your G540, I happen to know a relatively local guy with a couple



  7. #67
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.

    Here is a quick question:

    the G540 manual shows to wire up A and /A and B and /B but the stepper motor has A+ and A- and B+ and B-. I assumed A = A+ and /A = A- and B = B+ and /B = B-

    Is that correct?

    I have the eStop from Keling as well and it has a red and a green side. I checked with my ohm meter and the red side conducts with the button out and goes open with the button pressed - the green side is the opposite (open out, conducts in). Since the eStop hooks to the V- on the power supply (as per the G540 manual) I assume that I want to use the red side correct?

    Anyway, I need to pick up a power cord (can't believe I don't have one laying around!). But, I am on my way to a soccer game - the NE Revolution home opener. So I will take a clean look at the wiring tomorrow morning and fire it up!

    Thanks escott76, that's great to know!

    cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhackney View Post
    Thanks guys.

    Here is a quick question:

    the G540 manual shows to wire up A and /A and B and /B but the stepper motor has A+ and A- and B+ and B-. I assumed A = A+ and /A = A- and B = B+ and /B = B-

    Is that correct?

    I have the eStop from Keling as well and it has a red and a green side. I checked with my ohm meter and the red side conducts with the button out and goes open with the button pressed - the green side is the opposite (open out, conducts in). Since the eStop hooks to the V- on the power supply (as per the G540 manual) I assume that I want to use the red side correct?

    Anyway, I need to pick up a power cord (can't believe I don't have one laying around!). But, I am on my way to a soccer game - the NE Revolution home opener. So I will take a clean look at the wiring tomorrow morning and fire it up!

    Thanks escott76, that's great to know!

    cheers,
    Michael
    Button out, switch should conduct (referred to as NC). In many respects a safer way to go, as any damage to the system (broken wire etc) will result in a safe condition of the machine.



  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhackney View Post
    Thanks guys.

    Here is a quick question:

    the G540 manual shows to wire up A and /A and B and /B but the stepper motor has A+ and A- and B+ and B-. I assumed A = A+ and /A = A- and B = B+ and /B = B-

    Is that correct?
    Yes!

    I have the eStop from Keling as well and it has a red and a green side. I checked with my ohm meter and the red side conducts with the button out and goes open with the button pressed - the green side is the opposite (open out, conducts in). Since the eStop hooks to the V- on the power supply (as per the G540 manual) I assume that I want to use the red side correct?
    Yes!

    You've done some nice work!

    CR.



  10. #70
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Ok, just got in from the Revolutions game - we won at least. It was freezing and really windy. So, I am ready to go in the morning! Thanks for the answers CR and escott76!

    I'll take it one step at a time, triple check all of the wiring, plug in the power supply disconnected from the G540, check the output voltage. Then hook up the G540 without the motor connected, and finally connect the motor. I'll also loosen the setscrew on the Oldham coupler at the stepper so it can spin and I won't have to worry about the Y table moving and crashing at the end! Then, finally, I'll tighten them and have the table move.

    I've installed Mach3 and run through the basics without having the G540 attached. I will need to work through the configuration for my setup but I am hoping I can just jog the Y to see it move.

    Cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  11. #71
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    Quote Originally Posted by mhackney View Post
    Ok, just got in from the Revolutions game - we won at least. It was freezing and really windy. So, I am ready to go in the morning! Thanks for the answers CR and escott76!

    I'll take it one step at a time, triple check all of the wiring, plug in the power supply disconnected from the G540, check the output voltage. Then hook up the G540 without the motor connected, and finally connect the motor. I'll also loosen the setscrew on the Oldham coupler at the stepper so it can spin and I won't have to worry about the Y table moving and crashing at the end! Then, finally, I'll tighten them and have the table move.

    I've installed Mach3 and run through the basics without having the G540 attached. I will need to work through the configuration for my setup but I am hoping I can just jog the Y to see it move.

    Cheers,
    Michael
    I"m sure you've read, but in case you haven't, use the XML from the Gecko site to make config and testing easy. Just copy it into the Mach3 folder, and use the launcher to select it. Pretty plug and play after that.



  12. #72
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    Also check your computer bios under advanced. Make sure EPP mode is selected.

    CR.



  13. #73
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    Thanks again, I did know about the XML from Gecko but had not downloaded it! There is also a great G540 setup guide that has the EPP setting in Step 2. I have a few year old Sony Vaio desktop that requires F2 to get to the BIOS - the Gecko guide lists F1, Delete or Insert. I had to dig through the Sony support site to figure that one out!

    Cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  14. #74
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    Default Here we go...

    Computer moved to shop, accesing network...

    Plugged in power supply after finding a power cord. The green LED on the back of the Keling KL-350-48 lights up but the fan does not kick in. I heard a little noise and measured 47.6 volts. I then started to type this up and remeasured only to find no output. I double checked and unplugged/replugged the supply but it is not outputting anything on any of the 3 sets of +/- terminals. There is nothing hooked up to the supply.

    EDIT: the fan is thermostatically controlled. I waited a couple of minutes and checked again and it is now outputting 47.6v. I will proceed - cautiosly!

    cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  15. #75
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Ok, now I have the G540 hooked up. At first I did not have it connected to the PC via the parallel cable, so I got a fault. Then I remembered reading in the G540 setup doc that it needs a charge pump signal - which means it needs to be hooked up to the PC. So I hooked it up to the parallel port and still had a fault. Then I realized that I probably had to have Mach3 running so I started it up, turned everything on, and I am now looking at a green ready light on my G540.

    stay tuned...

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  16. #76
    Member mhackney's Avatar
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    Y-axis motor connectedto the Y-axis DB9 connector on the G54 with Mach3 running and we have green!

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  17. #77
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    Ok, this is cool! I enabled Mach3 jog (ctrl-alt-j) and used the up & down (Y axis) arrows and got the motor to spin on command! Way cool.

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  18. #78
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    Default Y axis works!

    Wow, it worked first time! I tightened the motor couper set screw and jogged the Y axis! Smooth as silk end to end.

    Boy, with Mach3 running in the background as I type this, the keyboard response (wireless) sucks!

    Cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  19. #79
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    Tested the Estop, it works fine. Jogged the full length of the table, I AM going to put stop switches on ASAP - too easy to over run while jogging.

    Overall, the coupler mounting works well! Probably won't break any speed records, as soon as I figure out how, I will measure my travel speed - this is with the stock screw.

    cheers,
    Michael

    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


  20. #80
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    Talking Y-Axis video

    I uploaded some video:
    "http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPZxYC1vPfg"]YouTube - FirstRun YAxis desktop and higher resolution on my blog.

    Cheers,
    Michael

    Last edited by mhackney; 04-05-2009 at 09:20 PM.
    Reelsmith, Angling Historian, and Author of "The Reelsmith's Primer"
    www.EclecticAngler.com | www.ReelLinesPress.com


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How crazy is this idea for an X2 "staged" CNC conversion?

How crazy is this idea for an X2 "staged" CNC conversion?