Reply with Quotearent there some locking screws on the z axis on that machine? or maby the jibs are too tight?
Yipee! got my new X2 and C3, but some questions? please help me.
Hi all,
Just got my Sieg X2 mill and C3 lathe. Will put picture up later today. Just thought to buzz in and ask some questions.
1. How do I install the chuck for the X2 mill? Do I just push the chuck in all the way into the hole inside the spindle head (Sorry if I didn't get the technical terms right for the parts) On the chuck itself, there is threading but not sure where that threading go. Does it sit there by friction only? Thanks.
2. The wheel for my Z column is really difficult to turn by hand. Is there something I need to unscrew or unhook to make it turn easily. At the moment, I can't turn it at all. Thanks.
Anyway, thats all I need to ask and hope someone can help me out here.
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arent there some locking screws on the z axis on that machine? or maby the jibs are too tight?
Grizzly X3, CNC Fusion Ballscrew kit, 3 500oz-in bipolar steppers, 3 203v Gecko's, Linear power supply from Hubbard CNC, Mach 3, BOBcad Pro Art V22, Rhino.
on top of the head of the mill there is a cap under the cap you will find the screw that pulls in the r8 cone, so put your drill chuck in the spindle and then with one of the key that came with the mill tighten the screw until its snugg but dont over do it
the following image was taken from the manual at harbor freight
Pictures of my X2 and C3
Hi Project,
Thanks for the info. Will check the gib and see if I c an loosen it abit.
Hi Ataxy,
When they say machining is a dangerous hobby, they aren't kidding. I already injured my left hand in two places. All because I am trying to get the mill chuck off the spindle. There is a tool as shown in picture Tool 1. Can you advice me how to use this tool to take the chuck out?
I also have a set of the MT#3 collets. When I inserted the collet with the endmill into the spindle, I couldn't get it out as I may have pushed it in too tight. So I had to use a plier to get it out. Which I believe isn't a good thing as the plier just damage the collet head. Isn't there an easy way to get the collet out? I can pry the mill chuck out, although with difficulty but still it comes out with some force, but with the collet, its almost impossible once the shank is inserted into the spindle.
Thanks in advance.
Alex
To get the collet or chuck out of the spindle you need to loosen the drawbar (the nut sticking out of the spindle under the black cap on top of the head) a little ways (not all the way, just so you can see a gap between the nut and spindle) and rap it with a hard rubber mallet or something similar that won't damage the drawbar. (In one machine shop I worked in, we had an old hunk of lead we used.) This is called "striking the drawbar" and is the standard way to get a collet out. (Remember, if you have an endmill in the end of the collet, you need to grab it with a shop rag or it may fall when the drawbar is struck. The shop rag will prevent you from getting cut!) You can then loosen the nut the rest of the way and the collet should come out. You don't have to haul off and nail it, but it will probably take more force than you think. This is the kind of thing you can only figure out with experience.Originally Posted by alexccmeister
I just posted this in another topic, but it is good here as well. A very good reference for the X2 (much better than the manual it comes with) can be found at:
http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Inf...UsersGuide.pdf
(I should probably post a disclaimer that I don't have any connection with the little machine shop, but since they are "local" for me they have wound up with a lot of my money since I can place an order and pick it up the same day.)
Hi Tai,
Thanks for the info. Just posted a reply to your post in another thread. Will study the guide. It easy once i know what its for. Thanks again.
i was thinking about making myself a lead hammer for just this process... i have tons of old wheel weghts that we have been melting for bulletts for years, i was just thinking i could make myself a mold, or maby use some copper pipe or something for a mold, and melt some of thoes wheel weights into it and make it myself.. then i could put a handle through it and have myself a non maring lead head hammer...
Grizzly X3, CNC Fusion Ballscrew kit, 3 500oz-in bipolar steppers, 3 203v Gecko's, Linear power supply from Hubbard CNC, Mach 3, BOBcad Pro Art V22, Rhino.
Seen this link awhile ago, looks like easy way to make nice little mallet:
http://www.frets.com/FRETSPages/Mach...eadmallet.html
now thats a right spiffy ittle lead hammer.. gotta make me one of thoes.. except i think i'll use a hex head bolt, and make mine more like 1.5 inch diameter... but the process works for me...
good link, thanks!
Grizzly X3, CNC Fusion Ballscrew kit, 3 500oz-in bipolar steppers, 3 203v Gecko's, Linear power supply from Hubbard CNC, Mach 3, BOBcad Pro Art V22, Rhino.
Yea, np, i think i'll make one for myself too, just got to find some lead...
Hi all,
Just measured my backlash for my manual X2. X axis backlash is reading 0.005" and my Y axis is reading 0.013". I had a look at this reading physically by seeing how much the gap is by using a digital caliper and they are small. But whats the norm for acme leadscrew? Thanks.
Alex
different leadscrews and different follower nuts will have different amounts of backlash... i dont know about on the mills, but i do know on my little asian lathe the nut part is mounted in such a way that you can angle it slightly to reduce the backlash by means of a screw that pushes on the nut sideways...
Just something to look for....
Grizzly X3, CNC Fusion Ballscrew kit, 3 500oz-in bipolar steppers, 3 203v Gecko's, Linear power supply from Hubbard CNC, Mach 3, BOBcad Pro Art V22, Rhino.
