I.H. Charter Z axis Hiwin rail conversion

[lcvette]

Awesome conversion!!! Any updates since having the new linear ways installed? Or some machining video?

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[Roadstercycle]

Awesome conversion!!! Any updates since having the new linear ways installed? Or some machining video?

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No videos just great machining now. No head flexing when drilling or cutting and a solid Z. I actually just ordered a Skyfire VMC2 so I may be selling the Charter conversion. The charter oaks works great I am just wanting a VMC for some production runs I'm doing.

[Uguessedit]

I saw you mention of this talking about the sky you ordered. I'm interested in details about this build if there is a chance you would message me. We're you having rigidity issues? If so what did you find was the underlying reason for the instability?

OK, this is a bit premature but since I want input before I start I thought I'd throw it out there and see what sticks. I just ordered a Grizzley G0704 to help with the conversion because it seems you need a mill to build a mill and since I just sold my RF 31 CNC conversion I put myself in a bind. The G0704 is going to so much nicer than that round column on the RF31. Anyway since I'll have it down for that I may do the belt drive too so I'll murder 2 birds with 1 machine. OK so back to the conversion. My thoughts are Hiwin 20 rails and 4 bearing blocks. I'll need to cut the tips of the dove tails to give some extra room for the rails and block. The rotating back plate needs to be machined to accept the blocks. This is where a little helpful brain storming from you guys may help. I was also thinking I may just get a 13" x 13" piece of 1.5" thick 6061 aluminum and machine and bolt my head to it and get rid of the dove tail rotating casting all together. Nail it as close as possible straight up and down and leave a little clearance in the mounting holes for bumping perfect when tramping it in. So my questions are: Do you guys think that the 1.5" aluminum plate will be strong enough to avoid flexing or should I go with a 1.5" thick steel plate? Or just machine the stock rotating plate for the bearing guides? I saw how one guy did it with looked like a G0704 but I've not seen an I.H. conversion yet. I would think someone would have done it already. So if anyone has any good ideas I'd love to hear them. Or if you know where a conversion thread is, let me know. I don't need to reinvent the wheel.

Here's a couple pics of my mill and the dovetail area. I have to sneak the rail and bearing block into that area next to the dove tail. If I take about 3/8" off the dovetail tip it should work fine.

The Mill is a I.H. Charter
3 phase 3HP Baldor motor with VFD
Quick tool changer with Tormach TSS. Would you believe I found that air cylinder on Ebay for $95. I couldn't hit the "Buy it Now" button fast enough. I priced a new one $650 plus shipping, Yikes.... I am still able to use the spindle handle for quick drilling and my tapamatic setup
It has double ball screws and it still has manual use besides full CNC
Rotary table 4th axis.

[Uguessedit]

I'm talking about a RF45, I.H. Charter even the G0704 with that option. I've been looking at the Sky fire for months. A little difference from a $1500 to $2500 dollar machine to a $18,000 Skyfire or a $35,000 Haas mini mill.

You could build your own. The platforms are typically the same. It's the quality base you choose to start with. Ball screws are inexpensive and with your skills can easily be implemented and now a company is selling on eBay a prebuilt enclosure for $900-$1500 depending on options. It's a beautiful enclosure for most of us that's probably the place we're not equipped to fabricate in a home shop environment. Start with a nice Taiwanese platform like the Pm833 with a large travel table and you would have quite a machine after upgrading ballscrews, vfd 3hp, etc... Even choosing a $3,000 commercial control platform and touch screen would save you from the expense of a sky. Making it all look complete and integrated is ultimately up to the builders desire, taste, time allotted, and skill level, among equipment available to achieve those results. Ultimately I have such a project I have proceeded with that will likely take the better of a year to complete before I can even turn it on. I anticipate to have approx $10-12,000 invested.

[Roadstercycle]

I did build the I.H. Charter and put linear ways on the Z axis as the Z axis doves tails where so sloppy, in fact I'd be embarrassed if I where Charter oaks. Anyway the machine is now awesome but unfortunately it's not an industrial machine to say the least and when your all done you can not walk away and do other stuff in the shop without an automatic tool changer. You don't need the $3000 control your talking about just go with an Adtech controller like that is used on the skyfire and save $2000.

[Sparky_NY]

After reading your build I just ordered a set of rails for the Z on my RF45 today. I have a question though... back at post #10 you talked about getting the rails 90 degrees to the table. Can you elaborate on how you went about that alignment to the table? I understand the plate for the head assembled with the rails will get the 2 rails parallel to each other nicely, its getting 90 degrees to the table that I am fuzzy about.

Also, how do the gas struts seem to be holding up? I used some on a bridgeport knee years back and they lost their force before too long.

Thanks!
George

[Roadstercycle]

After reading your build I just ordered a set of rails for the Z on my RF45 today. I have a question though... back at post #10 you talked about getting the rails 90 degrees to the table. Can you elaborate on how you went about that alignment to the table? I understand the plate for the head assembled with the rails will get the 2 rails parallel to each other nicely, its getting 90 degrees to the table that I am fuzzy about.

Also, how do the gas struts seem to be holding up? I used some on a bridgeport knee years back and they lost their force before too long.

Thanks!
George

OK, I had to cut the stock ways back of course to make room for the rails. I built the plate that the head bolts to and and squared the bearing blocks and rails on it first. Then I put the assembly on the column then I squared rails with a square from the bottom surface. Of course the column was laying down. Get it as close as you possibly can. Do yourself a favor while it is laying down and drill 4, 5/16" course threaded holes in between the 4 bolts holes that hold the column in place. Just make them not interfere with the heads of the big allen bolts. Use 5/16 allen bolts so they can be closer to the big allen bolt heads. These will be used to tram your column in once you put it back together. Just use the new bolts to help tram it, use shim stock to actually fill the space before tightening as you don't want to tighten down on the 5/16" bolts as you could crack the bolt holes. Put shim stock for and aft of the bolt holes if needed. You will be very amazed on what a difference it makes in cutting performance.

Jack