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    Default Milling machine conversion

    I have an old Delta Rockwell drill press that I am going to convert to a mill.
    I dont really care about the finish quality or lifespan of the machine since it is so old, but I figure having an almost milling machine is better than trying to grind and sand what I need. I will not be cutting anything harder than aluminum.

    What I am concerned about is the safety of the mahcine while milling, I've heard that the chuck can fall off when doing sideways cuts. This drill press has a solid spindle with a JT33 taper that fits into the chuck (The taper is part of the spindle), so I can't do anything of the regular modifications with an MT2 type taper. I've considered making my own endmill holder with setscrews to hold it onto the taper but it seems unfeasible with my hardware or would produce some pretty terrible results.

    Honestly this drill press is so old that I was thinking maybe just using some JB-weld and stick the chuck right onto the spindle. I know a three prong chuck isn't ideal for milling but I can't find an endmill holder with a JT33 taper anywhere.

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    Last edited by Laessen; 03-22-2017 at 03:25 PM.


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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    Never, never, EVER mill with a drill chuck. They are not designed to handle side loads, and either the jaws or one of the tapers WILL eventually let go which can be dangerous.

    Regards,
    Ray L.



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    Laessen,

    Welcome to the forum. Keeping in mind that this is just my opinion..I think any time or money spent on your drill press project will be for naught. Although you already have the machine and it seems like a basic foundation for your mill, you will probably be very disappointed with the outcome. I would search around for a better candidate.

    Stuart



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    Member arizonavideo's Avatar
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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    The deltas are a bit of a collectors item. It will bring a OK price used if you give it a nice cleaning and some time to sell.

    If you want to mill really really cheep look for a RF-31 they go used for $400 to $500 all the time and are OK mills.

    youtube videos of the G0704 under the name arizonavideo99


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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    Go to skyfire cnc usa, ask Jan Bos, they have small cnc milling machine, cheap and better than drill press ...



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    Hi, I second everything said about converting a drill press to a mill, it ain't worth it........I even made a new spindle with a 3 Morse taper for an old Atlas drill press.

    Having a relatively slim column, a drill press will not be rigid enough to prevent the cutter from making the head part vibrate and destroy the cutters......drilling is all downwards pressure.......milling is all sideways pressure.
    Ian.



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    I'll +1 on what's already been said... don't bother spending a dime or trying to make a mill from a drill press. You'll find it's about useless (for other than drilling) and absolutely no accuracy at all. Spend your time and effort on a cheap used square column small mill or mini/micro. Even one that needs a lot of work would be time and money better spent.



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    Thanks for the replies, I will be scouring craigslist for a cheap milling machine in the future.
    In the meantime, I decided to buy an xy vise to test it out. I also improved the friction fit on the JT-33 taper by heating up the chuck and putting the spindle in ice water, seemed to do the trick.
    I did a test on an aluminum ingot with some two flute end-mills at different speeds, and (after adjusting my methods a few times) I eliminated most of the chatter. It turned out decent enough for what I'll be doing.



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    The JT-33 tapper is not made for side loading. At some point the chuck will release. How do you plan on holding the cutter?

    I did the same thing before I had a mill to to a few ops with the drill press making a router table. I bought some M3 collets to hold the cutters. I was able to lock the collets in with a bolt.

    This worked like crap. I got a few slots cut and then sold the drill press and got a OK deal on a RF-31 mill. They are still a good mill for the money.

    youtube videos of the G0704 under the name arizonavideo99


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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by arizonavideo View Post
    The JT-33 tapper is not made for side loading. At some point the chuck will release. How do you plan on holding the cutter?

    I did the same thing before I had a mill to to a few ops with the drill press making a router table. I bought some M3 collets to hold the cutters. I was able to lock the collets in with a bolt.

    This worked like crap. I got a few slots cut and then sold the drill press and got a OK deal on a RF-31 mill. They are still a good mill for the money.
    I just put the endmill right in the chuck. Honestly I had very good results, my main problem is getting everything squared up to the bit. Cutting parallel to an edge is near imposible because both the base and the head rotate around.



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    ANYBODY who knows anything at all about milling will tell you NEVER mill using a drill chuck! Just because you got away with it once, does NOT mean it's safe. IT IS NOT!

    Regards,
    Ray L.



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    My uncle with 7 fingers was once heard uttering the phrase...."You don't need that damn guard on the table saw. They just get in the way."

    Just sayin'



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    Default Re: Milling machine conversion

    Hi.....just as a matter of interest......if you really need to use a drill chuck to hold a cutter where side loading is going to happen.........one way you can overcome the problem is....take the chuck off and open the jaws to their fullest extent.........the bottom of the cavity either has a hole all the way through the body into the taper section or you can drill one.....all the way through.

    THEN......you drill and tap a hole in the end of the spindle taper......it goes without saying that when the chuck is remounted on the spindle taper you can keep it on the spindle with a socket head cap screw in side the chuck.

    You might not be able to close the jaws all the way down due to the diam of the cap screw head at the bottom of the hole if the jaws contact the screw head.....but you'll just have to examine that part......at any rate, the cutters bigger than 10 mm diam probably won't have a problem.

    You might be able to use a countersunk head cap screw which will probably not interfere with the jaws at the botom.
    Ian.



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