THE GRIZZ

[atomarc]

Any reason not to use the stock Z way cover? It will of course need replacing every so often, but fits nicely and is not terribly expensive and didn't eat any y travel really.


Sent from my QTAIR7 using Tapatalk

We put linear rails on this guy...stock cover is a No-Go..unless I'm overlooking something obvious, which is highly possible.

Stuart

[lcvette]

We put linear rails on this guy...stock cover is a No-Go..unless I'm overlooking something obvious, which is highly possible.

Stuart

Ah... Keep forgetting ... That would present a problem.

Maybe a fabricated metal set?

Sent from my QTAIR7 using Tapatalk

[atomarc]

Chris,

I watched a video of a fella building a metal cover and it was pretty involved, sort of like a Chinese finger trap. If I can get a traditional fabric one built in China to fit my machine that would be the ticket. Alibaba.com is teeming with them but I've never spec'd a offshore, one-off custom item before and it's a bit scary. I may end up with a pig in a poke.

Stuart

[gd.marsh]

Just in case you weren't aware ..

These are pricey .. but extremely well made and long lasting .. I put one on my machine several yrs ago & it's still in perfect condition.
They also come in many sizes ..

https://www.mcmaster.com/#rubber-bellows/=177qd1p

gd.marsh

[atomarc]

Thanks for the link...and wow, they are expensive. If I go with the Chinese ones, I'm hoping I can have them made to the exact size I need. The saddle snuggles pretty close to the column when it's fully retracted and a accordion type cover needs to be quite thin.

Stuart

[atomarc]

This may interest some of you folks. Here is the total cost for our build to date. There are some costs (items) that were purchased that were not used and hopefully will be resold to recoup some money. This figure includes the initial cost of the new machine from Grizzly plus all the dribs and drabs that I have purchased to get it to where you see it now. There is still a bunch to go.

Total cost as of 4/16/17
$6698.49

Stuart

[jbar]

Would you please post the ebay link for the Hi Winn linear rails you used?

[atomarc]

Would you please post the ebay link for the Hi Winn linear rails you used?

jbar,

Enclosed is a link to the the folks I purchased the Hiwins from. They deal out of Canada so the exchange thing is a bit goofy, but they are great sellers and the product was brand new, as advertised and was shipped very quickly. The units I bought were (I think this is correct) classed CA preload. The Ebay page I linked has lots of people selling these things...when I purchased them I paid $190 dollars...that was 10/16 and the exchange rate to Canada was 1.3.

Stuart

HIWIN 15mm Linear Rail EGR15 Guide L750mm + 2pcs EGH15CA Blocks Kit CNC Router | eBay

[Connor]

WTF? Why is this redirecting to viglink.com ?

[atomarc]

WTF? Why is this redirecting to viglink.com ?

Connor,

I'm not 100% sure I know what you're saying..if you are referencing the link in my post, when I click on it, it takes me directly to the Ebay page for Hiwin listings...don't know what "viglink.com" is???

Stuart

[Connor]

OKay. NM. I have a chome extension that rewrites my browser user agent string. Apparently this forum has some sort of javascript that can redirect links.. it's sending me to some strange site because it doesn't like my user-agent for some reason.. strange.. never had any issues with it before.

[atomarc]

A Grizz update.... The doors for the enclosure are complete... a piece of acrylic was heated and bent to form a lip seal that bolts onto the left hand door.... also added some magnets to the upper inside of the doors. Mounted up the one shot oilier, regulator / filter and the hydraulic intensifier up to the side of the enclosure base, drilling and installing nutserts (rivet nut inserts) worked really nicely!



(video update, I'm going to be doing more of these.... subscribe!!!)





(door magnet)





(lip seal bolted on the door)





(heating the acrylic and rolling the leading edge over really helped with the doors coming together easily)





(the plate after a few rivets and "nutserts"....)





(regulator / filter )





(one goal with this machine we failed to mention up to this point was our desire to bolt as much crap to this thing as humanly possible! )





(Bella gives it two dewclaws up!!!)




Thanks -

[atomarc]

Spent the weekend working on the coolant return system. Made 2 drains that dump into a trough that leads to some pvc pipe that snakes its way back to the tank... put the tank on a slide out tray for easy access.... all in all i would call it a productive weekend!



(some shots of the trough.... when final assembled there will be rubber edging running the length of the trough)

















(the drains pre-solder)













(all burnt in...)





(you can see how the trough underneath is held on by the long 10-32 studs coming up through the center of the drain)





(the schweet drawer for the tank..... and that "mini grease gun"....... )





(the slides mount to a frame made up of square tube and flat bar....)









(now just add 50+ lbs.............. lol)





(the door also fits!!!!)





(the plumbing mocked up)





(the return pipe...)




Thats all for now.... thanks!

[GreatNorthGnome]

Man you're killing me, this build is awesome!

[atomarc]

Man you're killing me, this build is awesome!

Thanks for the nice comment...this thing is killing me too! Lots of stuff done but still lots to do.

Stuart

[lcvette]

Thanks for the nice comment...this thing is killing me too! Lots of stuff done but still lots to do.

Stuart

Looking great!! Keep it up, builds always take longer than expected, but if you stick to your guns and do all the little things up front it will pay big dividends in the end! You are doing a great job keeping the momentum going and that is by far one of the most important things to do in a big build. Keep crossing off items on the build list and before you know it you will be making parts like a boss!

Chris

Sent from my QTAIR7 using Tapatalk

[atomarc]

I'm going to ask this question here as it's pertinent to this build. I'm plumbing in the Cheng Yin pump oiler for the machine way lube circuit. The factory shows a max developed pump pressure of 213 psi. I have various options for plumbing, but 'push to connect' fittings would work in one area. They are rated for this pressure and tube is available for this pressure.....but, I have heard they often leak when used with a system like this that see's intermittent applications of pressure.

Anyone have any first hand experience with these 'push to connects' leaking in a application like this. Other fittings and hose options are easy, so this isn't a deal breaker..just would like to know.

Thanks,

Stuart

[SCzEngrgGroup]

Depends exactly what push-to-connect fittings you're talking about. Personally, I have not had great luck with those for oil, and much prefer compression fittings. FWIW - Here is the oiling system I have on my Novakon Torus Pro. It uses an air-pressurized reservoir and 14-way selector valve with computer controlled timing to automatically inject oil into each oiling circuit one at a time, on a pre-defined schedule based on spindle on-time, with no check or flow control valves anywhere, so no worries about clogs.

The pressurized reservoir is simply a standard whole house water filter canister:


All oiling lines are brought out through drag chain to an convenient common point - top of the column in this case:


The custom 14-way selector valve, operated by a small air cylinder:


Regards,
Ray L.

[atomarc]

So.......do any of your tube connections leak?

Stuart

[gd.marsh]

I have push to connect fittings on my oiling system which is a basic Bijur type hand pump with metering valves at each oil point.
There's been no issues since putting the system into operation several years ago ..

gd.marsh