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Thread: THE GRIZZ

  1. #337
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Had a chance to fire up the mill and finish machining the saddle to accept the linear rail cars, removing the bulk of the material with a 3/8" cutter and finishing the corners off with a wee little 1/8"... after some "de-horning" work with a stone things are looking good! I suppose the next step is to drill and counter bore 16 M4 holes!!! ......











    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  2. #338
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Would love to do the same with my G0704. Plan to do a really high speed spindle (maybe a separate speeder spindle) and linear rails would achieve the precision I'm looking for and possible add some rigidity.


    Planning a double ballnut repacked to hopefully get under 0.0004" of backlash and similiar with 15-20mm rails or just go strait for the Hiwin with ZB rated preload. The 20mm rails would be ideal for additional rigidity if they can fit on the XY without removing too much from the saddle.



  3. #339
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    We used the 15mm rails as they far exceeded any load this small machine would see. Larger rails would me removing more material from saddle or table and we felt things were getting pretty skinny as it was.

    There were concerns voiced in a early thread about the design of our one shot oiling system and how well it would or wouldn't work without various metering valves installed. With the addition of these linear rails, the oiling system is now only required on the 'Y' axis dovetails...two oiling points. This will hopefully make any of those early concerns a moot point...hopefully.


    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  4. #340
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Hello!..... We have X axis linear rails...... weeee! Picked back up working on the machine interface... Its starting to take shape now that the keyboard tray is completed.. Things are starting to take shape "quickly" !!



    (the start of the "keyboard tray flipper thing..")







    ( it takes a little "extra" futz to make nice things on the horrible freight brake..... but it can be done!!! ..... crappy brake aside, its done some pretty amazing "work" on many other machine builds )




    (end pieces for the keyboard tray)
















    (the start of whats to be the monitor mount)
























    (a video for the video people. I want to thank all the you tube creators and viewers that have reached out to me, I'm really enjoying the you tube machining community! Yall are awesome )






    - Nick

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  5. #341
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Had a chance to finish up making the "monitor tray pivot bracket end piece jobbers" . after destroying the last one (asleep at the power feed) After coming to terms with my mistake i made a new one....




    (left and right brackets, a few swipes with an end mill to make them easier on the eyes.....)




    This is the side of the tray where the USB (10 pin?) right angle will exit... then into the tube.... and on down to the electronics enclosure. The interesting finish on the parts is whats left of the mill scale (hot rolled.. yuck!) after a trip through the vibratory.... "velvety!!!"


    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  6. #342
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Not a lot of progress on the machine over the weekend... Spent Saturday tearing the roof off the shop, Monday will be spent putting a new roof on! The shop is due to be electrified by the sun come the end of July so we are under the gun to get a new roof on before then.. The grizz is going green BABY!! lol ...... on a more grizzly note... put the saddle and table on the base and checked it out for the first time on the actual machine.... everything fits great and slides sooo smooth! Now that there is no X axis oil feed stuff the aluminum block that the front y way cover mounts to needs to be remade... its no biggie due to its now only a simple block of aluminum with some holes in it... to act as a spacer....




    Merry sunday yall!





    (nail # 4563 was slightly less satisfying than nail # 25.... ....... or..... "saving the world one nail at a time!!!"....)





    (like a glove...?)







    Last edited by atomarc; 07-09-2017 at 10:16 PM.
    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  7. #343
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    I have a question and I'll ask it here instead of starting a new thread. I have planned on making a weighted base for the Grizzly supplied cabinet that will have adjustable feet, a wider foot print and be ballasted with concrete. This will give the machine a much needed increase in working height and also add some stability.

    Is this a dumb idea? Would I be better served on finding a existing tool cabinet with drawers and mounting the machine on that? The factory stand is cute but doesn't have much storage, especially if one puts a small coolant reservoir and pump on the bottom shelf.

    What have you folks used to raise the working height and/or make the thing a bit less top heavy and 'tippy'?

    Stuart
    Not really a bad idea. I have my G0704 mounted to a 1/2" steel plate that is 24"x29.5", which weighs about 100lbs. The plate sits inside one of the Grizzly movable bases, so the mill is easy to move if need be. In the four corners of the steel plate, I tapped 1/2" holes, which have bolts in them that have been turned down on the ends, and inserted into hockey pucks with a washer on top. The bolts can be threaded in to raise the base off of the wheels, so it is supported by the pucks, allowing the mill to be levelled. The pucks work well as slight vibration dampeners. I had to mount the wheels of the mobile base on some spacer plates to give enough clearance underneath for the pucks. While not perfect, it seems to work well. Even more weight on the bottom would be useful, so using concrete would probably work well too.

    THE GRIZZ-dscn9547-jpg

    THE GRIZZ-dscn9548-jpg

    Michael Anton
    http://manton.ca - http://laserlight.wikidot.com


  8. #344
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Michael,

    Great idea, and I love the use of the hockey pucks, I'll bet they really do offer some dampening effect. Our mill is only sitting on the stock stand as we mock up and build. When finished it will reside in a roll-around, full enclosure that allows the use of a flood coolant system...but I still like the hockey puck idea.

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  9. #345
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    Michael,

    Great idea, and I love the use of the hockey pucks, I'll bet they really do offer some dampening effect. Our mill is only sitting on the stock stand as we mock up and build. When finished it will reside in a roll-around, full enclosure that allows the use of a flood coolant system...but I still like the hockey puck idea.

    Stuart
    I tried other dampeners first, and they were just too springy. The hockey pucks are much better, and the price is certainly good!! Note that I think I saw someone else use them for this purpose, so I certainly don't claim that this is my original idea.

    Michael Anton
    http://manton.ca - http://laserlight.wikidot.com


  10. #346
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    You may want to check out how liquid tight your 3D printed parts are, as they are likely quite porous (though this might not matter depending on how you are using them). This seems to be one of the problems with FDM printers. If you print them in ABS, then you can acetone smooth them, and that seals them up pretty good, though paint would probably work too.

    Michael Anton
    http://manton.ca - http://laserlight.wikidot.com


  11. #347
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by manton View Post
    You may want to check out how liquid tight your 3D printed parts are, as they are likely quite porous (though this might not matter depending on how you are using them). This seems to be one of the problems with FDM printers. If you print them in ABS, then you can acetone smooth them, and that seals them up pretty good, though paint would probably work too.
    Michael, the 3D printed parts on "The Grizz" are more cosmetic than anything (keep some chips off / tidy things up) ..... regardless of their intended function, I can assure you its very possible to print "liquid tight" models on a FDM printer...

    - Nick

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  12. #348
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    Michael, the 3D printed parts on "The Grizz" are more cosmetic than anything (keep some chips off / tidy things up) ..... regardless of their intended function, I can assure you its very possible to print "liquid tight" models on a FDM printer...

    - Nick

    While I'm sure it is possible to print liquid tight parts, I suspect this is far less common. I know in my case, that the parts I have tested were not liquid tight, and my parts are usually considered to be of very high quality. In the one case for sure I know of, I was using a printed part for casting urethane, and the first cast leaked into the infill, making it difficult to remove the parts. After that, the mold was liquid tight, so subsequent casts were not a problem.

    There are many references online regarding how to seal FDM parts so that they are not porous, which also leads me to believe that it is a very common problem. Heck, even Stratasys has an article regarding this: Sealing FDM Parts | Stratasys, so it is not limited to consumer grade printers.

    Michael Anton
    http://manton.ca - http://laserlight.wikidot.com


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