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  1. #521
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Turbo,

    It's a no-go on the min freq deal. It made no difference. I'm going to set the drive back to factory defaults and see what happens. That will tell me if it's some type of noise or interference in the enclosure or a problem in the drive itself...I think.

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  2. #522
    Member Turbo442's Avatar
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Set to Factory defaults without speed control. On and off at 60 hz. See what that does.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk



  3. #523
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo442 View Post
    Set to Factory defaults without speed control. On and off at 60 hz. See what that does.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I was hesitant to set it back to factory defaults because I had tweaked with so many settings I was afraid I'd never get back to square one..settings were written on scraps of paper littering the shop. A very poor job of record keeping on my part.

    Having siad that, I think I've solved the problem..and it was simple and dumb. These drives has electronic O/L which arbitrarily trip at the set current. I set the drive for the nameplate FLA of the motor but then I did a 1.5 second accel and...bingo, over-current for a microsecond, but no trip.

    I set the display to show current draw and sure enough, at that accel rate (trying to reach 3000 RPM) the display zooms over 4 amps. I set the accel to 3.0 seconds and the problem disappeared. Set it back to 1.5 seconds, and it back again. We are running a 1.748:1 overdrive so there is a bit of hardware to get up to speed.

    So.........right now I think I have it cured and I'm going to move on. I'll revisit all the O/L parameters and see if I can program some delay time into the trip setting, sort of like a thermal that has to heat up before it trips. I think the drive has the smarts to do that..just have to figure If I do too.

    Thanks for the input Turbo, I appreciate it...can't send the Champagne but how about a bottle of Ripple!

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  4. #524
    Member Turbo442's Avatar
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    What is the KW rating on the VFD?


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  5. #525
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    It's a .75KW Hitachi drive. Rated for 1hp with a current rating (output) of 4 amps on 240 volts, single phase. The Leeson IEC drive motor is 1hp with a FLA of 3.2amps. This particular drive requires no de-rating.

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  6. #526
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    I have a Mach-4 install question. I've posed various questions on the Mach-4 forum but the place is dead..no responses. I have also started a help ticket at Newfangled. It's a dumb question..here goes......

    I paid for and received a hobby license for Mach-4. I was sent the license in an email with specific instruction on how to load it. My quandary is that the computer it will be l loaded onto is inside the 'Grizz' which is in the shop with no wireless connectivity. I wonder if I can put the Mach-4 license info on a thumb drive, then load that onto the 'Grizz' and open and activate it. I don't want to screw it up and have to deal with fixing it through the Mach-4 help line..rather do it right the first time.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,
    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  7. #527
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    I had to do the same with my computers in the shop. I just plugged a USB wireless adapter in the machine, took care of the license issue,
    and removed the wireless adapter.
    Larry



  8. #528
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by metalfixer View Post
    I had to do the same with my computers in the shop. I just plugged a USB wireless adapter in the machine, took care of the license issue,
    and removed the wireless adapter.
    Larry
    Larry,

    Thank you for your reply. Mach support just got back to me and told me that I can transfer the license info from this computer to a thumb drive, then install it on the computer on the machine it will be used on. I was hoping that was the case but didn't want to screw it up.

    For some reason the Intel 'NUC' that's the brains on the Grizz doesn't readily connect to the wireless router in the shop. I've even taken the computer out of the enclosure in an attempt for a unrestricted path to the router but it still won't connect. It's a mystery.

    Thanks,
    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  9. #529
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Just a little note, sans pictures. We made a 'air part' from a Mach4 canned bolt hole program complete with peck cycles. Man am I excited..it really does work just like a real machine. Nick will have a video a little later but I wanted to share my excitement now.

    I've order Champagne and dancing girls for the 'grand reveal', which should happen soon..hope my wife doesn't find out!!

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  10. #530
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    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  11. #531
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by atomarc View Post
    Looking good!! Bet you guys are super excited to see it run some code!! Looks sweet!! Keep it up!!

    Sent from my QTAIR7 using Tapatalk



  12. #532
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Chris,

    Thanks..yes, we're anxious to make chips. Soon I hope!

    QUESTION. I have seen this program in a video but I don't know what's it's called;

    Machine is told to home.

    Machine homes in all axis, then instead of backing off slightly, it returns the X and Y to their approximate center and drops Z to a preset height. This means the vice or part is centered under the spindle.

    What is that called, where can I see a video of it and who the heck can help me write a Mach4 Lua script that will make that happen?

    Thanks,
    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  13. #533
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Stuart

    I'm sure a basic little gcode program could accomplish that, but unless you're going to cut the exact same part over & over .. why put the spindle at center of table all the time after homing?
    Maybe I'm doing it the hard way, but after booting up the machine, I home, then set stock in vise, probe the stock to establish work offsets, and then run a program.
    Once the machine is homed, it's not necessary to do it again unless there's a crash, or problem with motion, or you turn it off & restart.
    Have I missed something about why you would want your spindle going to center of table when you home?
    If you are thinking of a handy position for inserting /changing tools during a job, you should be able to tell Mach where to go for tool changes. I use the Mach Standard Mill screenset & have a custom macro written that puts the spindle where I want it for tool change,
    then goes over to the corner of table to measure each tool before cutting. (too many mess-ups in the tool table as I was learning, so I don't even bother with a tool table any more)

    Your machine looks absolutely beautiful by the way .. stellar work & a awesome father /son project. My son & I coordinated on a CNC Router for him to make custom guitars & I totally enjoyed every minute of it.

    Gary



  14. #534
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Gary,

    Thanks for the feedback. To be honest, having never done this CNC stuff before I'm not 100% sure how it should be. When I (we) home the machine, it goes to all it's extremes, backs off a tad then sits. In our case, this means the table is full left, full forward and the spindle is full up. You're right, this only happens once..when you home it.

    This is a awkward position for the table as the vise (if used) is far left and forward and barely accessible. I (we) would like the table to come 'center' after it homes that one time. I believe in Mach3 there is a function that you can program to set the 'back off distance from the home switch. In Mach4 that must be written with a LUA script..which isn't a simple thing for a simpleton like me.

    My experience is with a manual machine where the vise is always centered on the X axis and usually the Y axis. This is home base, where you load the vise and start your work.

    So...to get net, the Grizz homes just fine in all axis, but after it hits the home switch, instead of merely backing off several thousandths, I would like it to return to 'center stage', as it were. Does this make sense? I am almost sure I've seen other machines...maybe even a G0704 do this very thing.

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  15. #535
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Stuart

    Gotcha .. so it's an 'easier to work with from there' kind of thing .. I can understand that.
    With my machine it seems like I'm manually jogging the axis around quite a bit during a set-up anyway, so I wasn't thinking about it simply being a convenience issue.

    Once you become more comfortable with using your machine, you will likely find yourself jogging around in rapid mode a lot.
    The ability to move an axis anywhere you want it quickly with the push of a button beats the heck out of turning hand cranks!

    Wish I could help you with the LUA script. I've never used Mach4 so can't be of any help there.

    Gary



  16. #536
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Gary,

    Thank you. We'll keep at it, for sure. The one year anniversary date for the machine is coming up in a few days and I had hoped to be making chips by then. It still might happen...if the stars align.

    Stuart

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  17. #537

    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    I usually prefer my tool change position and my part loading positions to be the same. This usually comprises the table being as close to front of the enclosure as possible (nearly as Y- as it will go), but no so far that I can't use a tool height setter on the bed to the left of the vise. For the X axis, I like to setup the vise in the middle of the table, but for tool change for part loading I like the table X+ nearly as far as it can go. This gives room between the vise and hopefully open air for part loading. For Z, I like it at maximum Z+. And as mentioned, I jog all of the time. Between the pendant and the probe I can definitely say that jogging is a huge part of just about every setup.

    I see lots of your photos, see the work you have done here, and you know way more about milling/machining than I do. That said, I own a G0704 and with very little space between a tool and the vise even at max Z+ the above settings have worked the best for me. I use anywhere between 4 inch vises to a 6 inch vise and a 6" 3-jaw chuck to give you an idea of my work environment / standard setups are used. Loading in an 80 lbs vise is also much easier when the table is close to the front edge of the enclosure and that helps.

    All of this said, I'm sure every guy has a preference and they likely vary endlessly.



  18. #538
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Quote Originally Posted by CL_MotoTech View Post
    I usually prefer my tool change position and my part loading positions to be the same. This usually comprises the table being as close to front of the enclosure as possible (nearly as Y- as it will go), but no so far that I can't use a tool height setter on the bed to the left of the vise. For the X axis, I like to setup the vise in the middle of the table, but for tool change for part loading I like the table X+ nearly as far as it can go. This gives room between the vise and hopefully open air for part loading. For Z, I like it at maximum Z+. And as mentioned, I jog all of the time. Between the pendant and the probe I can definitely say that jogging is a huge part of just about every setup.

    I see lots of your photos, see the work you have done here, and you know way more about milling/machining than I do. That said, I own a G0704 and with very little space between a tool and the vise even at max Z+ the above settings have worked the best for me. I use anywhere between 4 inch vises to a 6 inch vise and a 6" 3-jaw chuck to give you an idea of my work environment / standard setups are used. Loading in an 80 lbs vise is also much easier when the table is close to the front edge of the enclosure and that helps.

    All of this said, I'm sure every guy has a preference and they likely vary endlessly.
    Thanks for the comments. I can crank a manual handle but I haven't done what you have, and that's run a CNC machine, so you're much more knowledgeable than I am.

    Nick had a forum friend helping him on the programming (Mach4) and he now has the ability to run the X and Y to their centers after homing. This is what I was trying to achieve, so we're getting closer.

    Thanks,
    Stuart & Nick

    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  19. #539
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    here are some quick videos documenting the custom homing sequence for mach4 that has been coming together over the last week. The machine is currently waiting on a replacement hydraulic seal for the draw-bar cylinder. Getting closer...










    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


  20. #540
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    Default Re: THE GRIZZ

    Was able to run some test g code. Stuart made a cool floating sharpie holder. A touch of fusion and 'bob's our uncle'. If you notice the start date on "the grizz" build (12/9/16) ....happy one year anniversary! omg! Last week a new draw bar cylinder was made (other one was....leaking.."unapparent design flaw") . Tomorrow, planning on putting the draw-bar back together and testing.... fingers crossed.













    "THE GRIZZ" photo album - https://goo.gl/photos/yLLp61jooprtYzFK7
    Youtube - https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCT2lq9obzEnlEu-M56ZzT_A


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