Have a little update for a few projects.
Welcome to all the extra visitors c/o WillO from hackaday.com.Thanks guy.
That's a really cool site more for the electronics side of things.
Will be getting my own website up and running soon thanks to Godaddy.
Will post a link when she's ready.
Here's some pics of the spindle lock I made. Had to mount it on the front
to make room for the attachments that go on the right side of the Mill.Changed the length of the pin so it doesn't protrude as much as in the first pic.The print shows the shortened pin.
Also some clamps to hold down a precision vise.
Plus a sneak peek at the surface grinding attachment.Waiting for my grinding wheels to show up from Wholesaletool.
I've tried tons of different software to change an image into an engraving,
but none gave me what I wanted in one simple program.Please let me know If
you've found something that works nice and easy.
BobArt Pro-X does this quite well. There is a demo version builtin to BobCAD too. I ponied up and bought is as an addon on one of their slow sales days...
Short, you can open any supported image format and do posterization from 2 to 8 colors IIRC. You can vectorize in multiple formats too. It makes a vector toolpath out of an image, the rest is just a few clicks away.
That was a neat feature, one I thought I'd use, but it's the embossing feature of toolpaths that I've used the most.
Looking for a cheap Flycutter?
I use a single Kennametal Carbide insert KC850.
Get them here.
Even though this is highly off topic, KC850 is the grade of the insert. That doesn't describe the geometry or size. It looks like you were using a CNMG insert, probably a 432 or 332, the most common sizes and radii.
A 6A 3-16DF03708 .200 (XL) Pitch, 16 Teeth, Aluminum Alloy Timing Pulley
A 6A 3-32DF03712 .200 (XL) Pitch, 32 Teeth, Aluminum Alloy Timing Pulley
A 6B 3-060037 .200" (XL) Pitch, 60 Teeth, 3/8" Wide, Urethane Belt
Hoss, I'm considering following your plans and am working to understand them in depth. One thing that is eluding me is the use of all the parts above. Specifically you specify two (03381142 1.250X1.937X0.032 THRUST WASHER-NEEDLE-FLAT (2)) thrust washers. However in the z axis mount.bmp you only use 1 ("thrust bearing i.d. 1.25 o.d. 1.938 width .110). Where is the second washer used?
Secondly, I think it's safe to assume that you did not replace the bearing assembly on the X-axis. Other than that I think I have it
have you got and will you share any info you have on the proposed auto tool changer? after the in depth descripitions and the workmanship i have seen so far i feel your the man to go to. thanks in advance greg
In the original setup. I only used 1 needle flat between the thrust bearing and
the aluminum mounting plate, but added a second one on either side of the bearing to give the bearings a hardened surface on both sides to ride on. I
figured the bearings might wear into the lower flange since it 's not hardened steel. This cut down on the amount of shims I needed to just .005.
The shims just compensate for tolerances of the machined parts.The shaft of Flange C could be left a little long initially (.050 maybe) and faced to size when all the parts are put together instead of shimming. Like I always say, It's easier to remove material later than try to add to it.
You assumed right, the X axis bearings are stock.
I did get an import 15/16-16 tap at wholesale tool. http://www.wttool.com/product-exec/product_id/24817
If I come up with an auto tool changer, I will certainly show it off, but I haven't started anything yet. I downloaded a pdf from Little Machine Shop of the one they are selling for $1000. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...gory=879658189
Looks really cool, but way too much for me to spend on something I really wouldn't need unless I got into making production parts to sell.( like maybe a kit for an auto tool changer, Hey maybe someday)
Had a problem with the X2's circuit board so I was looking for a replacement.
Didn't want to spend $99 at Grizzly or $120 at Little Machine Shop. http://www.littlemachineshop.com/pro...211&category=6
I found a 130 VDC 8 AMP MOTOR CONTROLLER BOARD used in treadmills for $30 at http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.as...tname=electric
It works just as well as the original, even have to cycle the power switch(4.7k Potentiometer) back to zero when you hit the E-stop to get the motor to come back on just like the original. The schematic for the circuit board calls for a 5k Pot to vary the speed but the 4.7k on the mill works (just shuts off a little slower than before.) Use the E-Stop to be SAFE!
Here's some pics