Reply with QuoteOOP's, Forgot to add the pic.
Hoss, It in the Ports and Pins, Called Index. This is also used for threading.
Spindle Index Mach3Mill
OOP's, Forgot to add the pic.
Yep, that's the one. The one on the ShumaTech site is simpler and will work fine since the transistor is used in the saturated states.
Jay
Hey guys,
thanks for the help.
I found the original design for the belt conversion by Jerry Rollett on the
GrizHFminimill yahoo group.
download the pdf here.
It's fancier than my rendition of it. Will require more detail work. Has a tach built in too.
Hoss
Hoss,Originally Posted by hoss2006
Here is a tach setup I built. I used it with the DRO-350 to check the speeds that I am getting from the steppers with my manual driver.
I originally built the board with the idea of using it for limit switches, but it works fine for a tach sensor as well. It has outputs for both NO and NC positions. It takes +5, gnd and signal connections. With the Shumatech DRO-350 I wired it to the NO position (close on pulse).
Alan
Ok, where did you get the boards?
Smitty
well the boards say "allan's machine works" on them.. im guessing he drew them up in some free software from the net, and then ordered them from one of thoes short run board making places on the net.. but thats just a guess...
Grizzly X3, CNC Fusion Ballscrew kit, 3 500oz-in bipolar steppers, 3 203v Gecko's, Linear power supply from Hubbard CNC, Mach 3, BOBcad Pro Art V22, Rhino.
Smitty,
Project5K is pretty close. I drew the schematics in Eagle but I actually laid out the board with Osmond Quartz (runs on the Mac). I am getting ready to offer them on my website. It took several runs to get the layout just right. It was the first board that I did totally myself and getting all the holes the right size was a new experience for me. Last time I was involved with a board design, was a larger board and I hired professionals to do all the layout. They make it look so easy. LOL
Alan
www.expresspcb.com has software and provide short run circuit board for relatively reasonable price and fast turnaround. there are cheaper option if you search the web though. (mostly out of china and batched, so it takes upto 30 days)
small board like that will be easy to do multiple from expresspcb. (they have protoservice for $60 board for 3 -2.8x3.4 " board. you should be able to put at least 2 or 3 of those circuit on each board.
Seriously, that's way overkill for how simple this circuit is. You want a cheap "off-the-shelf" solution? Try this. At $14.95 it's a simple plug-n-play. But it's overkill, has a potentiometer to set the sensitivity ... used for line detection/following. All you need it the circuit shown on the ShumaTech site. No need for a PCB, just some resistors, the sensor, and some 3-lead cable to tie it back to the driver board or BOB if you use one, and some heat-shrink or electrical tape.
Jay
yea you could allways just go to the cellphone shack (sorry rat shack.. no no sorry "radio shack") hehe sorry used to manage a couple of them.. anyway, you could go there and get some of that perf board and build it on thoes, cut them to the size you need, and bingo....
Grizzly X3, CNC Fusion Ballscrew kit, 3 500oz-in bipolar steppers, 3 203v Gecko's, Linear power supply from Hubbard CNC, Mach 3, BOBcad Pro Art V22, Rhino.
Sensor
I used a telephone connection, to connect Mach3.
Does that work well for you? I think I've recently read a post which said that using those connectors for servo-encoders was a bad idea as the error rate was pretty big...
I have used the same telephone connector with my little pcb for a DRO encoder in machine shops. They didn't have any problems. I used capacitor to keep the +5 vdc up.
If you had 1000ppr encoders then you might have issues, but 0-4000 rpm is a lot slower and thus 22ga wire would work fine.
FWIW,
Jay
Thanks for all the tips guys.
Here's 18 1/2 inches of X travel.
The stock Z casting back is fairly flat. The largest variance on the Y is .001
and .004 on the X Axis. The x dips in the middle down .003 on the front edge and rollercoasters on the back edge going down -.0015 in the center and up .0025 at the other end.
i'll take .010 off with the surfacing cutter and all should be well.
Then on to some Y fun.
Hoss
Hoss,
wow is that wild! But it looks like a lot of leverage on the small amount of dovetail when the table is fully extended. Any concerns about that?
Steve
Love the y-axis. very creative.
Should be able got out a new saddle if you had to. To expand it's foot print a little bit.
Either way, very nice.
steve,
i trust the guy running my mill won't put anything on it that's heavy enough to snap the dovetails.
if he does, his a*s is mine!
the pics show the extremes of travel, maybe for engraving something 18 in. long and lightweight.
16 inches will keep the saddle being exposed and give the most strength.
better than 8.
hoss
Hoss, when you figure out how to expand the Y to 6" or more, you can quit your day job and open up shop
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