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Thread: Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion

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    Member diyengineer's Avatar
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    Default Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion

    Hello Everyone! New lathe picked up from a local school that was hardly ever used. The controller was sold months before in a previous auction so ill be converting it to mach 3.

    It appears in great shape. Came with a 5C collet holder and quick change tool post. Machine seems really well built.

    Anyone been there done that as far as the conversion and this lathe go? I'd rather monkey see monkey do that reinvent the wheel!

    I'd like the purchase the 5C collet to 3 jaw chuck for it, and maybe possibly go to a gang style tool holding system.

    I guess i need to know where to obtain the pin outs, and the required tech documents of the machine to learn what makes it tick.

    Here are some photos for now.

    Any help would be much appreciated. This will compliment my KX3 cnc mill for prototype use.

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    Member Fastest1's Avatar
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    Do you have manual spindle control now? How about some extensive shots of the electronics? Even if it hasnt been successfully interfaced with prior, many members here could help identify a way. Good find.



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    It does have a knob for manual spindle and pc controlled.

    Ill get some more pictures and well go from there. Looks like the spindle has an optical encoder on it for feedback.



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    It should be able to turn on the spindle with nothing but a power cord.



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    Link to a guys conversion.
    Prolight 3000 Lathe Retrofit - Home Model Engine Machinist

    "The lathe has some really nice features such as precision ground ball screws, limit switches on all axises, a 8 position tool changer, an air operated door and chuck, and the spindle is set up to accept 5C collets. It also came with a 4" 3 jaw Bison chuck to replace the air operated chuck.

    To build the control box I bought three Leadshine Digital DM 856 drives, a Combo breakout board from Sound Logic, a 48 volt 7.5 amp power supply to run the stepper drives, and a C-3 pulse board from CNC 4 PC to tell Mach how fast the spindle is turning. There is an encoder on the spindle motor that tells a RPM gauge on the front of the machine how fast it's turning too.

    I also replaced the Z and X axis motors with some more powerful ones from Kelinginc.net to make sure I didn't have any issues with missing steps when running. The original motors were 150 oz and the new ones are 282 oz. I didn't replace the tool changer motor as it works just fine.

    I'm happy to report that the lathe is running great, and I have the amps turned way down on the stepper drives as I have plenty of power on each axis. With a simple M code I can control the spindle speed, open and close the chuck and open and close the machine door. Accuracy has been really good and it looks like I can easily keep .0005 accuracy."

    Quick specs
    http://www.intelitekdownloads.com/ma...IGHT_Lathe.pdf
    User manual:
    ftp://ftp.robotec.co.il/Techsup/plt3...Turn-guide.pdf



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    Hi diyengineer

    this could give you an idea of how to reuse the original stepper drivers and power supply -

    http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...soft_mach.html

    as an alternative to this link you found

    Prolight 3000 Lathe Retrofit - Home Model Engine Machinist

    John

    Last edited by john-100; 09-05-2013 at 03:18 PM.


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    Hello John, Good find. I do not have the controller box at all.

    I''m trying to find a suitable, and simple controller solution. My router i went all crazy with servos, and every bell and whistle and i wanted to pull my hair out.

    I'm thinking of installing a Gecko G540 controller, with cnc4pc C3 index pulse card for spindle speed feedback, and upgrading both steppers to Gecko 280oz/in, with a 48V and 5V power supply. This would all be in a single box, with fan, and it would utilize the cnc4pc MPG16 lathe panel with C22 interface board connected to a second parallel port. Seems like it "Should" be a no brainer? However the price tag will be about $900 bucks (for everything).



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    Hi diyengineer

    with the Gecko G540, motors and various cnc4pc boards you will be starting with known good parts with detailed instructions
    they may be expensive but you will not be gambling with cheap items that you may need to replace because they don't work as expected

    the MPG16 looks interesting I'll have to remember that

    John



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    shars.com - 4quot 3 Jaw Self Centering Precision Chuck amp 5C Arbor

    I believe this chuck should work out. I will also probably pickup a 16 piece 5C collet set and holder.

    I wouldnt mind a bolt on gang tooling setup, any ideas?



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    Hi diyengineer

    a few days ago I read this - Clever gang tooling. =) a possible idea ?


    in the past the old automated lathes I've repaired had 6 tools on a turret - Emi-Mec presents the AutoSprint S
    building a turret will be a lot more work !


    John



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    8 Position Gang Tool Bar Omniturn 805 Tool Holder | eBay

    Maybe something along the lines of this? they also have them in single tool, two tool, three tool, etc.

    That Emi-mec is intense!



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    You don't need that 5C collet chuck to mount a standard chuck to your lathe. I think that could cause extra run out and possibly be too heavy for the spindle. I'm not positive, but I don't think they make that 5C adapter for this use.

    The spindle nose on your lathe has a 2 1/4" X 8 thread and there are a ton of used and new chucks on E-bay that will fit this. You can also buy a 2 1/4" x 8 back plate and mount any plain back chuck to it. CDCO has back plates for $42.00 and 4" three jaw chucks for $58.00. I just picked up a 4" six jaw chuck for my lathe from Grizzly for $126 and a back plate for $60. They also have standard 4" 3 jaw chucks for $69. A 5" chuck will fit, but you won't be able to open the jaws all the way because the swing is only 6" so it would be a waist of money to get anything larger than a 4" chuck.

    As for the G540 they are nice, but will only handle 50 volts max so you will have to watch out with the 48 volt power supply and may have to turn it down a bit as most have an adjustment pot on them. Also the G540 is only good for 3.5 amps per motor which to me is a bit low. You only need two stepper drives for you lathe and I think you can get more for your money if you buy separate stepper drives and a breakout board. If you really want an all in one board you could also look into the new unit made by Leadshine. Here is a link to them. They are the same cost as the G540 but can handle more amps and volts. 60 volts and 6 amps per drive. You only get three drives, but again you only need two.
    3-Axis DSP Based Digital Stepper Drive Max 60 VDC / 6.0A | Automation Technology Inc

    There are a ton of different stepper drives and breakout boards to go with so I'm just suggesting an option. I used a breakout board from Sound Logic that works really nice, but cost $250! It was an all in one board with built in power supplies, relays, charge pump, 0 to 10 volt spindle control, etc. I like the board, but if I did it again I would probably try the C-11 board from CNC 4 PC. The quality is lower on the C-11 board, but the price is half of the sound logic breakout board. In the end I spend around $700 for the beakout board, two new motors, three stepper drives, wires, box, power supply, etc. I also added the C3 spindle pulse board to my lathe and it works well.

    If you want to get the spindle to move you have to plug in the lathe and then apply 110vac to a relay inside the power supply that turns on and off the motor board. There should be a cord on the back of the lathe for this 110vac relay that use to plug into the stepper drive box. If I remember right you can simply plug in an extension cord into it. The speed can be controlled with the pot until you put it into the computer mode, then the speed control uses a 0 to 10 volt control from the breakout board to control the speed. I have this hooked up on my lathe, but never use it as I mostly have it at full speed any way.

    I really wish I had that 5C collet draw bar that yours came with as I really want to try some collets. Please do me a favor and measure yours up for me so I can make one up for my lathe.

    It sounds like you know your way around CNC machines, but feel free to ask any questions on how I wired mine up if you need to.
    Dale P.



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    I have a 4" air operated chuck that I would trade you for the collet draw bar if your interested. The jaws open and close with air and has a 2 1/4" back plate on it so it screws right onto your lathe.

    Dale P.

    Did you machine come with any other hardware? Wrenches, paper work, etc? I have an owners manual and can get you a copy if you need it, but I think you can also find it on line.



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    Thanks for the great info! I'll take your word and go with the larger steppers and driver combo. I'm sure the extra ooomph will be handy down the road.

    Another cnczoner had good things to say about the 3 jaw chuck with 5C arbor from shars. He uses it on his mini lathe with great success. I'd like to be able to use both collets, and a 3 jaw chuck and transition between them quickly until i figure out what i do and don't use the most.

    Thats good news about the 2 1/4" x 8 backplate bolting up. I thought my options were limited, but a search shows many options.

    You can load up some air chuck pictures, possibly interested. What's the advantage with that?

    It didn't come with anything other than my tool post, which is a DTM TP65A (AXA Aloris). I'm not even sure if this is the correct size, or if its entirely to large. Will any offbrand "AXA" style holders work with this unit? It didn't come with any holders, but would really hate to invest in holders if they were the wrong size.


    TP65A TOOL POST DTM

    Features
    Unique double action locking device.
    Positive locking.
    Double locking.
    Benefits
    No handle rattle or loosening; no chatter.
    Backlash free engagement.

    Turning & Facing Holder #1A
    Accommodates various square tool sizes.
    Takes turning and facing tool bits. Saves time!

    Turning & Facing & Boring Holder #2A
    Accommodates various square tool sizes.
    The "V" groove is provided for holding round shanks.

    Heavy Duty Boring Bar Holder #B
    Precision ground bore provides maximum rigidity for boring operations.
    Set screws assure positive shank alignment and locking.

    Multiple Toolholder #6A
    Ideal for multi-operations.
    Gang tool set-ups.
    Form tool. Saves time!

    Parting Blade Holder (H.S.S.) #7A
    Unique blade lock holds the blade straight eliminating blade vibrations.
    Cuts close to the chuck.
    Use T-shaped high speed cut-off blade only.

    Threading Toolholder #8A
    Simple blade design ensures rigidity.
    Use lower edge and reverse spindle when threading from shoulder out.
    Locking and helix angle adjustment is accomplished by two screws.
    Supplied with blade.

    Morse Taper Holder #MT
    Offers the advantage of power feeding by carriage instead of hand feed from a tail stock.
    Easily centered. Saves time!

    Parting Blade Holder (Carbide) #70A
    Holds blade & carbide insert for rapid cutting with wide range width of cuts.
    Cutting forces help lock insert firmly in blade.
    Blade locking is simple.
    Use the extractor for insert removal and clamp release.
    Uses SGI series cut-off blades.
    Uses GTN series inserts.

    Knurling Holder #10A
    Unique design offers two knurl positions for various stock diameters.
    Rigidity is maintained at all times for better knurling.
    Supplied with two medium diamond high speed knurls, unless otherwise specified.

    Threading & Grooving Holder #81A
    Tool design permits right & left hand threading toward or out from shoulder.
    Accomodates inserts for various thread profiles.
    Uses TNMA or TNMC inserts.

    Turning & Facing Holders #16A & #16NA
    Accommodates triangular inserts.
    Holder is used for turning or facing operations.
    16A uses TPG style inserts.
    16NA uses TNG style inserts.


    Will these holders or other AXA holders work?
    Quick Change Tool Post Set, AXA - LittleMachineShop.com

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-kgrhqz-h4fdk-ok8nbrki-t-vlw-60_1-jpg  


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    Im sure your right about the 5C chuck and it will work just fine. I have never used one and I'm sure it will be ok.

    As for the tool post the AXA size should be good for that lathe. I wouldn't want anything smaller as the AXA will only hold a 12mm or 1/2" tool shank. I have a AXA tool post on my 9X20 manual lathe and it works good. The aloris brand is really nice and expensive if you buy their tool holders, but thankfully most AXA holders should work so you can get cheap china knockoffs and they should work just fine. I get mine from CDCO and each tool holder is $9 to $10 each depending if you want one that will hold a boring bar as well as a cutting tool. Just make sure to replace the set screws right away as the ones that come with it are cheap and strip out easy.

    If you plan to buy the boring bar holder and cut off tool holder then it would probably be best to buy the whole tool post set (on sale for $83) and then add some more tool holders to it. Other wise you could get away with just a bunch of standard tool holders for $10.00 each. I have around 6 tool holders for my manual lathe as well as the rest of the AXA set.

    If you want to stay with the aloris brand of tool holders you can check out Grizzly as they have them in stock, or E-bay.

    I will post a few pictures of my air chuck. It has machinable soft jaws and will open and close with air. There is a rod that attaches to the back of the chuck that has two nipples. When you apply air to the nipples the chuck opens and closes. I have no idea what the value is of this chuck, but I'm sure it was an expensive up grade. My lathe was set up so the door will open and close with air along with the chuck so you could make them work with an M code. It's pretty cool, but right now I don't use the air system as 99% of the time I'm running the lathe at night and my air compressor is loud.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-dsc04014-jpg   Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-dsc04015-jpg  


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    More pictures.

    The chuck has the 2 1/4" X 8 back plate for mounting.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-dsc04016-jpg   Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-dsc04022-jpg   Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-dsc04017-jpg  


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    chuck showed up. I mounted it up and it fit well. I used a Mitutoyo indicator that is a little sensitive 0-1" .000005" to test run out. I don't have any wrenches for the machine, so i just fitted it up hand tight but was getting about .0002" on the chuck back plate, and at the front of the chuck was seeing .003". Didn't have time to chuck up a ground test bar. I'll do that tomorrow along with upload a picture of it mounted. As for the Air chuck you can PM me, still on the fence.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-untitled-jpg  


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    Default results.

    Quick test shows i have about .00505" @ 2.25" from the jaws. Not bad for a $90 dollar 3 jaw chuck. For quick and dirty stuff, this will be great. I'll get a 4 jaw chuck later on. Looks like the Shars 5C to 3 jaw chuck is pretty good overall.

    I'm debating if i should tear it apart, clean it, grease it, and reassemble it? Other peoples results seem to improve after cleaning a new vise.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-photo-57-jpg   Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-photo-58-jpg   Prolight turning center mach 3 conversion-photo-59-jpg  


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    Quote Originally Posted by diyengineer View Post
    Quick test shows i have about .00505" @ 2.25" from the jaws. Not bad for a $90 dollar 3 jaw chuck. For quick and dirty stuff, this will be great. I'll get a 4 jaw chuck later on. Looks like the Shars 5C to 3 jaw chuck is pretty good overall.

    I'm debating if i should tear it apart, clean it, grease it, and reassemble it? Other peoples results seem to improve after cleaning a new vise.
    You busy? Otherwise start cleaning. Test and report the results.

    A lazy man does it twice.


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    Can I ask you for a hyperlink to the place where one can buy the retrofit kit? I have been looking at what is in Ebay but Before I make any stupid mistake would like to have a bit of advice! and basically I'm doing exactly what you are doing! I have a lathe and want to put a full set of motors to x y axis and I will probably make my own 3 phase motor so it can be controlled by the the CNC controller.

    Thanks in advance.



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