Andrew's G07040 build

[Wiggles84]

The fitting on the near side was not installed yet in that pic. I ran out of fittings as this was like the third time I had changed the way I was oiling the saddle. you can see the one valve on the junction bar that is missing its hose. the oiling point is blocked by the ball screw.

I'm not sure which fitting I would use for the Y ball nut. the 90 degree adapter or the straight hose adapter and banjo assembly. On my mill I milled a 45 degree on the rear dove tale to clear fitting.


I you flip the Y ballnut mount to the other side you might have enough clearance? wish I would have thought of that before .

For the X ballnut I would use the 90 elbow and mill (grind) clearance into the saddle for the fitting.

The Z was a tight fit as well. I had to round off the corner of the fitting to clear the corner of the column.I also have the oil line come in at the top where the hand crank was and loop down and back up on the inside of the casting. Not sure how this will work in the long run, but it did survive the 100 travel back and forth program I ran while testing the ESS.

Also if you order from arc euro trade, there is some weird thing about staying under 100 euros. if you go over it becomes some hassle playing phone tag or something because its and over seas order????

Let me know if you need anymore info,
Andrew

[Connor]

The fitting on the near side was not installed yet in that pic. I ran out of fittings as this was like the third time I had changed the way I was oiling the saddle. you can see the one valve on the junction bar that is missing its hose. the oiling point is blocked by the ball screw.

I'm not sure which fitting I would use for the Y ball nut. the 90 degree adapter or the straight hose adapter and banjo assembly. On my mill I milled a 45 degree on the rear dove tale to clear fitting.


I you flip the Y ballnut mount to the other side you might have enough clearance? wish I would have thought of that before .

For the X ballnut I would use the 90 elbow and mill (grind) clearance into the saddle for the fitting.

The Z was a tight fit as well. I had to round off the corner of the fitting to clear the corner of the column.I also have the oil line come in at the top where the hand crank was and loop down and back up on the inside of the casting. Not sure how this will work in the long run, but it did survive the 100 travel back and forth program I ran while testing the ESS.

Also if you order from arc euro trade, there is some weird thing about staying under 100 euros. if you go over it becomes some hassle playing phone tag or something because its and over seas order????

Let me know if you need anymore info,
Andrew

I'm not sure what I'm looking at with that photo. Looks like the table... My X ball nut is ground just like yours with the oil hole in the same position.. Not sure what you mean by flipping the Y ballnut mount to the other side for more clearance.. I'm going to do the back of the saddle different.. I don't want a fitting behind it to crash into the column and/or reduce my travel.. I'm in the US. Not sure if someone here has the same stuff or not.. and hopefully I won't have any issues ordering from them.

[Wiggles84]

I'm not sure what I'm looking at with that photo. Looks like the table... My X ball nut is ground just like yours with the oil hole in the same position.. Not sure what you mean by flipping the Y ballnut mount to the other side for more clearance.. I'm going to do the back of the saddle different.. I don't want a fitting behind it to crash into the column and/or reduce my travel.. I'm in the US. Not sure if someone here has the same stuff or not.. and hopefully I won't have any issues ordering from them.

That is the back dove tail of the table. I don't have a pic with the 5/32 fitting, but I do have one with the 1/4 fitting I had at first.


The 5/32 fitting has more clearance.

As far as flipping the y mount, I mean bolting it to the nut from the other side. this would move the oil fitting hole closer to the front of the mill and give more clearance for the fitting.

So this.....


vs this....



I'm sure you can find these fittings from somewhere in the US, but it will cost more! that's why I got mine from arc euro trade. If your order is over 100 euros you could split it and make to orders? Paypal has a real ****ty exchange rate, but even after adding it to the cost of the fittings it was still about half the cost of anything I could find in the US!


Andrew

[Connor]

Okay, I see what your saying with the Y axis. I can't do that because I'm running double ballnuts and that would cost me travel. I'll have to come up with something else. I'll have to make some sort of extension to get the Y fitting above the ballnut mount.

[mhackney]

Connor, take a look at my oiler setup based on Hoss ideas too. I made some custom brass fittings from off the shelf parts and a little soldering that are very compact. It's in my build thread at post 554.

[Connor]

Connor, take a look at my oiler setup based on Hoss ideas too. I made some custom brass fittings from off the shelf parts and a little soldering that are very compact. It's in my build thread at post 554.

mhackney,

OKay, I looked at your thread. How are you getting 9 1/2" Travel without the rear saddle oil fitting it touching the back of the column ? I'm doing front mounted stepper for the Y. Will be doing Double Nuts.. and I plan on boring out the front of the base to make clearance for the ballnut so it can come forward as much as possible. Combined with the 2" Rear extension.. I should be able to get around 9.5" of travel. I don't have anything assembled yet.. so, I don't know what the normal clearance is in back. If I can get 9 1/2" and mount the rear saddle oil fitting in the back like that I will. Your ballnut mounts look different.. Looks like your using part of the ballnut as the fittings for the oil??

Thanks, Connor

[mhackney]

Connor, the oil fitting I made is very low profile. After soldering the tube in the brass fitting I milled down the top - you can see that in the photo with the ruler. It only extends 3/16" as shown by the ruler.

I milled the slot in the Y and did the Y travel extension mod as per Hoss. You can see the column spacer in the very first photo on that post.

My conversion is a standard Hoss Phase 2 with single nuts (old school ) The ball nut MOUNT is drilled and tapped for the oil fitting. It basically drips oil onto the ballscrew thread, not directly into the ballnut.

cheers,
Michael

[Connor]

Andrew,

What size ballnose endmail you use and how deep did you go with the groves? I think Hoss used 1/2" I need to buy the endmill to do my grooves. You have the geometry of the groves somewhere?

Thanks, Connor

[Fastest1]

You did see the way I connected the tubing directly to the zerks didnt you? A simple nut or piece of tubing to slide down does the trick well. I have a video I keep meaning to upload that shows me making a zerks release with a small syringe. Works great.

[Connor]

You did see the way I connected the tubing directly to the zerks didnt you? A simple nut or piece of tubing to slide down does the trick well. I have a video I keep meaning to upload that shows me making a zerks release with a small syringe. Works great.

Yea. I did. I even played with it. But still need to mill the groves.

[DonKes]

I did mine with an Armstrong Groove Cutter* .

Don

* angle grinder

[Wiggles84]

Andrew,

What size ballnose endmail you use and how deep did you go with the groves? I think Hoss used 1/2" I need to buy the endmill to do my grooves. You have the geometry of the groves somewhere?

Thanks, Connor

Oil Grooves?

I did some digging and found the patterns I made. I used an 1/8" ball endmill for mine, went .020"~.030" deep if I recall correctly


Andrew

[Connor]

Andrew, your PM box is full.

[Wiggles84]

Andrew, your PM box is full.

20 messages and the box is FULL!!!!!!!! What kind of BS is that?

Anyway...... empty now

Andrew

[Wiggles84]

Been pecking away at things here and there. But I had to put the machine back together because I was feeling like it was a never ending pit of time with no out come!




"Looks" ready to make chips........but not really. I still need to run wires from the motors, limits to the box on the back and make cables to go from the box to the control box. The control box is ready to be tested. Been told it will not work the way it is, but it's to far along to not try it now!




(I thought I had newer pics with all the connections made, guess not)


It'll get there......... some day!

Andrew

[Fastest1]

Why were you told it wouldnt work a particular way?

[Wiggles84]

ESS to close to KBMM-125.

MX3660 on top of PSU.

[Fastest1]

I seem to remember this concern a while back. Nothing like a test to verify.

[Wiggles84]

control box is in my basement, machine at work, none of the wires are terminated fully for a test

Time has been my smallest resource on this project!

If all goes as planned I will be going with BDTOOLS G0602 lathe kit when I do a lathe. Pricey, but there's nothing like bolting on a kit and instant CNC. You know what I'm talking about Fastest1

Andrew

[Fastest1]

And people who already possess the skills to make the parts that fit my machine! No headaches with Billy's stuff. Arizonavideo makes a nice kit too.