Reply with QuoteJust think... The only thing stopping me from becoming the next millionaire with that $136 chunk of aluminum is some silly little g-code.Originally Posted by WOTDesigns
That is one serious chunk of possibilities you have on the table there!
WOT DESIGNS
Just think... The only thing stopping me from becoming the next millionaire with that $136 chunk of aluminum is some silly little g-code.
Unfortunately for now I am making some one else's idea. About $450 per part x 2 parts.
Nice first picture of this thread, anyone else notice the easter egg? (i haven't read it all yet)
Haha now that you mention it, lights shining right at it
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Trying to get motivated here. Shop is cleaned up at the moment.
I work in the semiconductor industry. We are doing some equipment upgrades and this stuff was going in the dumpster. I am going to use this power supply case as the electronics cabinet. Power supply is 100-240V single phase input, 48V DC 25 Amp output. Should be perfect for the lathe. Even has 4 DB9 cutouts, 2 for the steppers, one for the index pulse and one for limit switches. The cabinet has sliders built in. I will probably mount it under the table and will slide out for maintenance. The side you see in the photo (With DB9 and power connector) will face to the rear of the lathe. I will mount an EMO button and power switch on the front.
For anyone that was wondering, here are the finished parts as they shipped to the customer. The cylinders are 8"x6" 6061. Charged the customer $785.
My electronics cabinet is slowly coming along. It is going to have 220V single phase power input on the back side of the unit. The back side will also have 4 110V outputs. 1 on a relay for the coolant pump, 1 for a 110v light, 1 for a PC and 1 for a monitor. There will also be a 220V single phase out on the back side of the panel to power the VFD/motor on the lathe.
I ripped this out of a power distribution box I had laying around. All ready pre-wired with a 10 amp breaker.
I am machining custom front and rear panels for this electronics enclosure. Its a little tight in there so I have to utilize the space I have available. Luckily both of these panels are removable with screws. Here is the drawing of the rear panel that was laid out using connectors and boards.
Last edited by Turbo442; 08-24-2013 at 04:10 PM.
How are you getting 110v from the 220v? Are you running 4 wire 220 so you have the neutral?My electronics cabinet is slowly coming along. It is going to have 220V single phase power input on the back side of the unit. The back side will also have 4 110V outputs. 1 on a relay for the coolant pump, 1 for a 110v light, 1 for a PC and 1 for a monitor. There will also be a 220V single phase out on the back side of the panel to power the VFD/motor on the lathe.
I ripped this out of a power distribution box I had laying around. All ready pre-wired with a 10 amp breaker.
Yep, 4 wire to get the 110V. I hate tripping over a bunch of power cables, I plan on having a 220V drop from the ceiling.
Here is a video for those that are interested in seeing what the rear panel looks like in Mastercam.
Are those vacuum flanges?
Yes they are. Off the shelf Swagelok parts.
110/120 is available in a 3 wire system too. A 220 circuit is just 2 110 breakers combined.
But you need four wires to get 110v from 220v. Two hots, one neutral, and one ground. I plan on doing the same for my mill, but probably not my lathe as the control box will also be using for a mini-mill that will likely not have access for 220...... maybe.
3 wire systems still have the 2 hot and 1 neutral with no ground. Works fine.
A lazy man does it twice.
It works fine, but it's NOT as safe without the ground wire.
Regards,
Ray L.
Though correct that it is not safer, 220v systems were run this way for a long time. Only til the latest of codes was a 4 wire required.
A lazy man does it twice.
And cars worked just fine long before seat belts, but I sure wouldn't want to back to those days. A whole lotta people died needlessly.... In this day and age, I think running AC-powered equipment without proper grounding is irresponsible at best, just plain stupid at worst - You're risking your life to save a few feet of wire??
Regards,
Ray L.
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