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  1. #37
    Registered nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Can you take some pics of the setup? How you wired it etc?



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    Gold Member dertsap's Avatar
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    How to wire it is in the link that i gave you. The only change is that the motor connects to a+ and a- .

    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........


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    Registered nateman_doo's Avatar
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    This one?




  4. #40
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Also as I noted earlier, if reversing the armature leads after power has been applied, use the I1 & I2 terminals to allow the drive to go through the accel after reversing, otherwise it is full on.
    They should be shorted when drive is off, also if there is a centre off between fwd and rev, this will stop any creep that may occur from any small command by pot etc.
    You could also leave the pot at a certain run position and inhibit by the I1 I2 and when released will acell up to the pot position.
    Not to be used for tool changes etc however.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


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    Registered nateman_doo's Avatar
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    Can you dumb that down a bit?



  6. #42
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    I posted a reply and it disappeared, try again.
    If you look on the KB or Baldor site you will see a version in an enclosure with a reversing switch.
    This is a special switch as it has a mechanical momentary stop at centre so you cannot go from fwd to rev with one action, it also has a contact that shorts I1 I2 inhibiting and resetting the drive.
    You can switch the drive input power off every time, but then the drive has to go through the power up which can be no problem.
    Another way is turn off or reverse the A+ A-, but when doing this method you have to short out the I1 I2 to reset the drive so it goes through accel.
    Just dropping the pot to zero is not advised and not necessary, even if you are using unidirectional control, you could leave input power and armature connected and just inhibit the drive, the drive would then return to where the pot is set to instead of cranking it up and down once I1 & I2 are opened.
    Some just switch the armature back on and off, this is wrong per the KB manual.
    Hope this is clearer.
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


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    Registered nateman_doo's Avatar
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    I don't plan on using a reverse switch. I am just trying to figure this upgrade out.
    KBLC-19PM | eBay
    The top link is half the price of the others, I am curious if this is the one to buy, and why does it look completely different then the picture listed here:
    KBLC BOARD



  8. #44
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    The KB shown I believe is an OEM special, it looks like it has a standard KBIC board with the modified (MOD) interface board, this is just a break out board for the stake-on terminals you would normally see, some of these boards have fusing or other mods on them special to the OEM, it appears to be a steal of a price?
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  9. #45
    Community Moderator Al_The_Man's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nateman_doo View Post
    I don't plan on using a reverse switch. I am just trying to figure this upgrade out.
    You still have to decide on a power off method, input power or armature?
    Al.

    CNC, Mechatronics Integration and Custom Machine Design

    “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.”
    Albert E.


  10. #46
    Gold Member dertsap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Al_The_Man View Post
    Also as I noted earlier, if reversing the armature leads after power has been applied, use the I1 & I2 terminals to allow the drive to go through the accel after reversing, otherwise it is full on.
    They should be shorted when drive is off, also if there is a centre off between fwd and rev, this will stop any creep that may occur from any small command by pot etc.
    You could also leave the pot at a certain run position and inhibit by the I1 I2 and when released will acell up to the pot position.
    Not to be used for tool changes etc however.
    Al.
    Thanks for the pointer and reminder , I'm not going to worry about reversing the spindle , I don't need it .
    I'll be killing the power with the input

    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........


  11. #47
    Gold Member dertsap's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by nateman_doo View Post
    I don't plan on using a reverse switch. I am just trying to figure this upgrade out.
    KBLC-19PM | eBay
    The top link is half the price of the others, I am curious if this is the one to buy, and why does it look completely different then the picture listed here:
    KBLC BOARD
    Like Al said , the ebay setups have a plug in terminal board on top , lots of those have the potentiometer built on which can be handy , or not , if not then you can pull the top board off with ease , and then you can connect your wires straight to the main board .
    If your mill is already running good then I don't know how much of a benefit changing boards will be for you , but then it made an incredible difference for my motor so it may improve things for you , if your in a similar boat as me then its cheap enough to be worth trying


    .

    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........


  12. #48
    Gold Member dertsap's Avatar
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    i did some fiddling around to get the board set up so that everything is running smoothly , then I put the tach to it , it turns out that there was a huge increase in rpm , the belt drive from lil machine shop is claimed to increase the stock mill to 4500 rpm , I'm not sure what it was running at previously but I'll take it at that , but right now its reading at 7100 rpm , and on the low setting I'm getting 2700 rpm ,
    the motor , bearings and board aren't taking on heat after running for a while , the lower bearing is radiating a bit of warmth thru the casting but its minimal and the bearing itself feels fine to the touch
    I've got some molds to cut over the weekend so that will be the true and final test

    .

    A poet knows no boundary yet he is bound to the boundaries of ones own mind !! ........


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x2 spindle motor replacement options ?
x2 spindle motor replacement options ?