Controller finished...
Controller finished...
An E-Stop that depends on Mach3 to stop the motors is no E-Stop. If Mach3 loses its mind (something it does not infrequently), you want the E-Stop button to kill power to the drives as directly as possible. You can have it ALSO signal Mach3, but depending on Mach3 to actually stop the drives makes for an unsafe machine. Ideally, E-Stop should be a normally-closed switch connected directly to the coil of the main power contactor, so when you open the switch, power is cut off RIGHT NOW, even if Mach3 has gone out to lunch. Having the switch kill the spindle, and depending on Mach3 to stop the drives is the worst of both worlds.
Regards,
Ray L.
Nice build, just with using the RJ-45 boards you will want to have a look at this thread before you start testing.
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht...version-2.html
Stoner #1
Any chance of a close up pic of copper & component sides ? Ony reason I ask as the component layout seems the same as mine.
My boards are marked C34KLR2 how does your's compare ?
Well least someone may have luck with them straight out of the box
Stoner #1
Cheers.
Interesting, looks like the C34KLD's are the ones to use for the KL-6050s rather than the C34KL's
Stoner #1
yes, he actually got the correct ones that will work for the 6050's unlike myself and others i have seen. which reminds me i still need to contact them to get mine switched out. i have them hooked up without but i might as well get the correct product i paid for.
I changed the wiring for the steppers to 2ft cables instead of 1 foot cables.
Waiting for some ballnut mounts to arrive then I can get busy...
Xnaron, Excellent work. I really like the use of the 3D printer and its parts. I am about to start tinkering in that area and repurposing a Sherline with a printer head. Nice layout on the electronics, very clean.
Nice work Xnaron....tidy and excellent attention to detail in the wiring setup this looks like a good and interesting thread build looking forward to the finished build...keep the pics flowing...and thanks for sharing
Eoin
Started work on the Z...removed the stock screw.
I'm using Billy's ballnut adapters for the linearmotionbearings2008 rm2005 ballscrew/nut. When I put it on the machine the screw wasn't right and the top piece would not align. It was because of this set screw preventing the ballnut adapter from mating flush.
6 bolts hold Billy's ballnut adapter in place. You'll need to insert the adapter first and then hold it near the top of the column while you add the 6 bolts.
I also had some flashing that I needed to remove from inside the column that may have interfered with the ballnut adapter.
I also noticed that the inspection screw plate at the back has a really long screw that may also interfere. I removed it for now and will add a smaller screw later.
I need to double check the setscrew at the bottom of the ballnut mount but I can't get to it without removing the head. I tried removing the center screw and the lock screw on the head but I could not get it off the machine. What is the best way to remove the head?