You need a LOT more tension in the X axis belt.... It should not be bouncing around at ANY speed.
Regards,
Ray L.
Yeah, I know that. These were "I'm not gonna be able to sleep if I don't run these now, and might as well take videos too so I'll have something to show every person I come into contact with tomorrow" videos.
The plasma cut plates slotted holes are a bit too small to allow me to tension the belt by sliding the motor, I'll have to clean them out. I might have to stiffin the plate too, it wants to flex when I put tension on the belt.
Well I've got the whole thing moving under CNC, but I'm having some issues with the motors stalling. There's probably several reasons. If I turn the velocity down to about 12IPM and the acceleration to 7 in Mach3, I don't have the stall problem. The problem with that is it's sloooow...
Will turning the accel down further allow me to ramp up the velocity a little bit? I would like around 20-25 IPM.
You need to play with the acceleration. You should be able to get way more then 20-25IPM. I'm not sure if your using the stock lead screws or ball screws. But even with stock lead screws you could get much more than 20-25IPM.
How did you remove the pin that is on the black sleeve that is in the picture? I put a screwdriver and kept hitting with a hammer, but nothing happened (from either side). In fact, the small eyeglass-repair type screwdriver I was using broke on the handle
Originally Posted by corgano
I recently purchased a WT ZX45 as well. I'm at the same stage of teardown and seeing your post I figured I could show this.
...
Right with bearing block on, remove pin from sleeve, remove two hex bolts from bearing block
...
I think I just used a heavy pin punch, and if I remember correctly, I bent it a bit. They were a pain to remove.
As an update, the motor crapped out on me over the winter, it would run OK in low speed but would stall and trip the breaker in the high gears. I thought it might be a bad capacitor, but havn't really looked into it that much. I'm planning on installing a new variable speed motor, but I probably won't get around to it until I need the mill for something else...
Thanks, I guess I have to keep hitting it
For the motor, I recently posted my struggles with my motor startup
problems. I basically ended up figuring out the detailed electrical connections on the motor. I measured the caps, and they were fine, and motor windings measured okay also. It turned out to be a loose connection in the switchbox terminals. Can check here if you are interested:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht..._question.html
For tripping at high gears, can you rotate the spindle by hand without problem? Usually, if the startup is okay and the motor runs fine until
you hit a load, it might mean that the run capacitor might be bad
(the 20uF one), or that your centrifugal switch is not taking the
big capacitor out of the circuit (the yellow wires in my wiring diagram).
You can easily check these with a multimeter. If you run the motor
long term with the 175uF cap. in the circuit, it might damage
the windings.
I have a similar mill, I just found a punch with a diameter that roughly matched the spring pin and hammered away.. Once it gets going, it gets a lot easier. When you have a chunk of it out, if it's still being a pain, try clamping the portion that is already sticking out with vise grips. It definitely helped me when putting it back!
Wired for 220?
I'm starting to think this motor is wired for 220. Can anyone make heads or tails of this?
Can a motor that is wired for 220 run on 110? I've seen where it will, but slower. Which I would think would cause problems with the centrifugal switch.
Any help?
Isn't that a 3-phase motor? If so, it is certainly NOT 110V, but either 220V or 440V.
Regards,
Ray L.
The motor in my WTTool ZX45 is a 110V single phase AC motor, nameplate reads:
"Single Phase Double Capacitor Inductor Motor", Type YL90L-4, 1720rpm, 2HP.
It has two capacitors 175uF and 20uF. THe first one is the start cap, and
second one is run cap.
I would not run this motor with 220Volt, which would overload the windings.
I don't think it is designed to take that additional load. The best would
be to run a google search, and contact the manufacturer in China
Here is a circuit diagram and winding measurements from my motor:
http://www.cnczone.com/forums/bencht..._question.html
ma1, thanks for your link, I've been using it all night. It looks like we have the same motor, but mine is wired differently than yours. Here's the nameplate and a close up of the wiring diagram on the plate, although it doesn't make much sense to me.
Here's the diagram I sussed out with my multimeter.
There should be a centrifugal switch somewhere in there, but I wasn't sure where so I left it out. I think I'll go try to find it.
Anyone familiar with 110/220 motors understand that?
I just checked, and spinning the motor shaft causes a loss of continuity across both capacitors. Is it possible the common leads of the caps are being switched off instead of just the 175uF cap?
Where the green and black wires were joined, I cut them apart so I could 100% which path the centrifugal switch is on. After cutting, spinning the motor shaft causes the black path to open and the green path to stay closed.
This leads me to believe the green and black paths are switched with what they should be. Here's my train of thought:
How it is now:
1. Motor is not spinning. Cent. Switch is closed, causing the circuit to include both capacitors in the V circuit.
2. Once the motor starts moving, it opens the cent. switch, which breaks the entire V circuit, cutting both the start cap (good) and run cap (bad).
I think if I switch the green and black paths that when the motor starts spinning, it will open the cent. switch which will in turn cut out only the start capacitor from the circuit.
Does this make sense? I've ran this machine in the past for hours at top speed with no problems, but it was it the very warm/hot part of the year. Is it possible the cold makes the motor need the run cap where it didn't in the heat? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause this problem.
I welcome any input...
That motor does look different
Surprising that they would ship different motors for the same unit. When did you buy yours? I got mine in 2010.
By your circuit diagram, it looks like the V1-V2 is the run loop.
The green wires from the motor take out the "left on the diagram"
capacitor, and the bottom black wires from the motor is responsible
for the "right on the diagram" capacitor . In a simple setup this
would be your run capacitor and will stay in the circuit all the time.
You can easily tell which one is the run , which one is the start capacitor.
Run capacitor should be the lower valued one (tens of uF), and the start capacitor is the larger one (100-200uF).
Based on the name plate, you should be able to wire this 220volt
following the diagram. The 110V has the two windings connected in parallel,
and the 220V should have them connected in series.
The troubling thing is no capacitors are shown in your diagrams.
Did you check the user manual for additional diagrams?
I would look at the Grizzly G0519 user manual if you can find on the web,
it might be more similar to your motor, and they mention 220V wiring.
http://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0519_m.pdf
If you look at my link, the U1, U2, V1, V2, ZW1, ZW2
on the name plate is labeled where ZW1 and ZW2 are the main motor winding
,and the U-V are the external wires from the switch box. The faceplate diagram that corresponds to my hand drawn circuit diagram is the bottom one for forward, top for reverse. The voltages are U2=110 volt U1=neutral, V2=110volt & V1=neutral for forward, V1=110volt & V2=neutral for reverse.
Exactly, it sounds like the switch is on the wrong leads based on my initial
guess of the green wires having to be the switch that take out start capacitor.
Based on your first post, when you disconnect all your black wires, and measure across them,
you should measure a couple of ohms resistance (run winding), whereas
the green wires disconnected should measure zero resistance when motor not moving(switch).
If they measure the other way around, the circuit was wired wrong.
Where the green and black wires were joined, I cut them apart so I could 100% which path the centrifugal switch is on. After cutting, spinning the motor shaft causes the black path to open and the green path to stay closed.
This leads me to believe the green and black paths are switched with what they should be. Here's my train of thought:
How it is now:
1. Motor is not spinning. Cent. Switch is closed, causing the circuit to include both capacitors in the V circuit.
2. Once the motor starts moving, it opens the cent. switch, which breaks the entire V circuit, cutting both the start cap (good) and run cap (bad).
I think if I switch the green and black paths that when the motor starts spinning, it will open the cent. switch which will in turn cut out only the start capacitor from the circuit.
Does this make sense? I've ran this machine in the past for hours at top speed with no problems, but it was it the very warm/hot part of the year. Is it possible the cold makes the motor need the run cap where it didn't in the heat? That's the only thing I can think of that would cause this problem.
I welcome any input...
Thanks for the reply. I'll try rewiring it tonight and see what happens.
FYI, not sure if wholesale tools does the same thing, but the similarly named Warehouse Tools in ON, Canada will sell you an RF45 with your choice of motor - 110v, 220v or even 3 phase. So yes, not surprising that it would have a different motor!
Where did you get this machine and did the wiring come botched from wholesale tools?
Yeah, wholesale tools gave me the option too, which is why I was leaning towards it being wired for 220. But, it doesn't appear that way.
We'll find out when I get home. This day sure is dragging by!
A dual-voltage induction motor with start winding will have two identical primary windings. In your case, these must be the ones connected to the four RED terminals. For 110V operation, these two windings will be connected in parallel. For 220V operation, they will be connected in series. There will also be a single start winding, which, during starting, is connected through a series capacitor. In your diagram, the start winding pretty much has to be connected to the two GREEN wires. As shown in your diagram, it is currently wired for 110V, and the start capacitor is the one on the lower left. Assuming the BLACK wires are the centrifugal switch, it is wired correctly as it is, PROVIDED that when the main switch is ON, you have 110V between the U wires, AND 110V between the two V wires. If, instead, you have 110V between either U wire and either V wire, then you need to swap the U2 and V2 wires.
Regards,
Ray L.
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