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Thread: My Wholesale Tools ZX45 CNC conversion

  1. #13
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    I recently purchased a WT ZX45 as well. I'm at the same stage of teardown and seeing your post I figured I could show this.


    ZX45 on stand


    Left with fixed block removed


    Left fixed block after being removed (gives you an idea of part 31s' role)


    Right with bearing block on, remove pin from sleeve, remove two hex bolts from bearing block


    Right bearing block removed (one on top)


    Lead screw removed.


    Hope this helps and good luck,
    -Patrick



  2. #14
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    welcome to the zone!

    good luck with your shop - once you get started, it's so addictive

    matt



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    Thanks for the pics Patrick those really do help. I figured the pin needs to come out in order to get the leadscrew out.

    I borrowed a friends engine hoist, so I'm going to get the mill out of the truck with it, and onto my stand. Havn't built it yet, but It's going to be a pretty simple wooden stand. I plan to build an enclosure around it later, but that will have to wait a bit.

    Matt, I've been around here since 2003ish, but thanks for the welcome anyway! I've been addicted for awhile, just havn't had the funds to feed my addiction until recently!

    I can't wait to get this baby going!



  4. #16
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    Can't quite tell if it's my eyes playing tricks on me or not but those pins in Patrick's pictures almost look like they're drilled & tapped .. That was the case with the pins that locate the head cover on my machine .. threading a bolt into them and gently prying under the head of the bolt with a small pry-bar pulled the pins out quite easily.



  5. #17
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    The pins are drilled and tapped, but I haven't checked the size. I may toss them aside when reassembling in favor of tapping the holes and adding additional bolts. Any reason why this would be a bad idea? Also, one thing to note when pulling the bearing blocks is that the bearings are not sealed. I am also contemplating replacing these in favor of sealed ones.

    Also, Toby, are you planning on rewiring yours for 220V 1PH? I would like to, however the WT ZX45 variant has an interesting wiring setup (not as simple as rewiring the motor).

    -Patrick



  6. #18
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    Patrick ..
    That's exactly what I did .. in fact I added 2 more besides .. due to the design of my bearing blocks I felt more comfortable with 6 bolts because they're pretty long. May be a little over-kill, but I wanted to use oversized clearance holes to allow for minor amounts of bearing alignment & also wanted to feel confident that once I snugged the bolts down, the blocks wouldn't be going anywhere. More fasteners do seem to hold better & require less torque on each bolt, so I usually tend to lean in that direction when possible.



  7. #19
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    So I got the base built today. It's covered in formica countertop laminate. It's the first time I've tried using that stuff, and it worked out alright. I'm going to have to put some sort of aluminum angle on the top corners because I put the top on first... So, for future reference, put the sides on first.

    The slopes on the sides are where the drip tray will angle to the back for a flood coolant drain.



    I've also got the stepper motor mounts drawn up and sent to my plasma cutter guy. I've got 570 oz-in nema 23's that will be coupled to each axis with a 16 tooth to 32 tooth pulley. I can't find any pulley's to fit the stock leadscrews at .700", so I'll just bore out another pulley.

    I might have to upgrade the Z-axis motor, but it's not a big deal because I'll just use the 570 for the upcoming 4th axis. I may also add a counter weight system.



    Now I get to pull my hair out once again when I lift this beast up onto the stand.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails -2011-04-10-21-38-46-jpg   -mounts-png  


  8. #20
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    Here's a progress shot. I forgot to get a tailstock chuck for my lathe, so this is as far as it's going to get until Sunday.

    The motor mounts are plasma cut from 11 ga steel, appx .120 thick. I tapped the mounting holes on the stepper's 1/4-20.

    It's very frustrating, especially since the pulley's and belt's should be here tomorrow. If I had chuck, I could turn the bore's on the pulley's and check the belt's. The belt sizes are the one thing I'm not very sure about. Well, that and a 570oz-in stepper being able to lift this beast's head.

    I also need to turn some standoff's, and probably buy more bolt's since these will not likely be long enough once the standoffs are added.









  9. #21
    Registered arizonavideo's Avatar
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    I don't know how well that stepper is going to work on the hand crank on the Z.

    You will have 1/2" of backlash with the stock screw setup.

    Do you plan on the Z having low backlash?



  10. #22
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    I'm planning on the weight of the head to keep the nut against the bottom side of the threads. The stock screw's are a very temporary setup, ballscrew's are going in this thing ASAP.



  11. #23
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    After a little thought, I decided to cnc the quill. It's temporary, but I could have the machine under CNC this weekend if I do it this way. ArizonaVideo, I think you're right about the motor not being able to handle it. So now to design a new motor mount by tomorrow morning in order to have it cut out by friday afternoon.



  12. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by tobybirch007 View Post
    After a little thought, I decided to cnc the quill. It's temporary, but I could have the machine under CNC this weekend if I do it this way. ArizonaVideo, I think you're right about the motor not being able to handle it. So now to design a new motor mount by tomorrow morning in order to have it cut out by friday afternoon.
    Please post pictures of your quill drive conversion - I've been following your work so far with interest...



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