PM25MV (BF Series)

[arizonavideo]

The R-8 speck calls for a alignment pin so I'm fairly sure you should have one.

Looking at the mill from the front, lowering the quill all the way, it is a small hole on the left side facing the rear /left about 45 degrease. My quill has three inches of travel and the 25 only two so it may be that the access hole does not show itself unless you drop the quill out.

The quill comes out fairly easy one you get the C clip out from the quill return spring cap on the top of the quill. If you want the pin that bad...

[Starleper1]

photomankc Found this in case it's useful to anyone later. It's the motor controller used in the PM-25.
http://www.kbelectronics.com/data_sh...data_sheet.pdf

Looks I'm not getting but a few millivolts at the A+ A- connections from the driver board. :/

I also have no pin in the spindle nor is there any visible hole in there where one should be.

That controller is very similar to the one that Surplus Center sells. I used it on my X2 spindle as a replacement. Works very well.


As for the spindle key. Mine does have it. Like Hoss said its way up in there. All the years I've been in the industry, Ive always taken out the spindle key because it makes it easier for a power draw bar. Never had a tool slip once.

Now I will probably leave this one in, only because I'm going to use TTS tooling and it doesn't really matter once you have the TTS collet in.

[madbee]

Starleper1, Thanks for the great pic. Interesting that yours has one (same model and most likely from the same batch). Using a flashlight, I can see very clearly that mine does not. My secondary concern was, if it did have one, I would need to make sure it was lined up and wanted to make sure I was not mounting the R8 incorrectly. Hoss, thanks also for pointing me to your vid. It clearly showed me how far the collet was inserted (for the G0704) before it was [lately] engaging with the key.

As for the spindle key. Mine does have it. Like Hoss said its way up in there. All the years I've been in the industry, Ive always taken out the spindle key because it makes it easier for a power draw bar. Never had a tool slip once.

[photomankc]

That's really odd that you have it and two of us don't even have the hole. I've looked up in there with a flashlight too and I don't see anything. Not really bothering me though. You do have to make sure it's tight though. Had a 3/4" endmill try to screw right on out with a heavy cut when I didn't get it drawn up there good. I get a good enough grip with a rag though to get it tight enough.

[Starleper1]

When I extend the quill all the way down there is no hole on mine either. It must be on the spindle itself.

[Starleper1]

I figured while I have everything a part, I would model it up. It makes things a whole lot easier when done this way.

[photomankc]

Here's a little bit I stumbled on while reading. I think this is the manufacturer's site. At least the English is every bit as good on the site as in the manual

http://www.ntdinss.com/en/products1.asp

[latheboy]

I'm (hopefully) going to buy a 25V out of china, cheap as bro. I want the 25 because of the travel.
I have been quoted X490mm (19.291") and Y160mm (6.299")
The company i'm talking to say they cant get the R8 spindle which is a pity, but for the price i dont think it'll matter in the long run because ill probably change it later.

I really enjoy reading these post guys keep it up.

And more pictures for those of us who dont read good

[Starleper1]

Here is the first little mod of many to come.

90 "A" Durometer Polyurethane pad for vibration dampening.







That is all for now.

-Scott

[RomanLini]

I'm sure you already thought of this, but it's worth putting PVC or nylon sleeves over your bolts and PVC, rubber or nylon washers to complete the vibration proofing. A touch of locktite on the bolts will stop them from turning.

[Starleper1]

Well, after hours and hours of modeling (Still not done yet) I was at the point where I can reassemble everything.

Got everything setup and trammed in.

The spec sheet they give with it, was all but dead on as far as I can tell. The only thing that was off was the Y tram. There sheet said .02mm I measured .101mm or .004"

I just shimmed it with a .002" shim. The Y is now within .0002 and the X is about the same.

So after I finished getting everything setup, I unpacked the vise they provide with the mill. Lets just say it won't see too much daylight . I'm going to get a Glacern 4in for it.

I put the vise on, just to try it out. Grabbed a block of steel, to see if this mill is worthy. 750RPM/ .050" DOC/ 1/2" Chinese junk endmill. Cut like BUTTER.

I was impressed, so I called it a night.





Now that I have everything modeled up, I can start figuring out bracketry for the world of CNC.

[Starleper1]

Also I wanted to add. I HATE the drawbar. It is a horrible design.

I plan to make a normal drawbar.

[tlfamm]

Scott,
could you give the planar dimensions, thickness, and supplier for the Polyurethane pad you are using for vibration dampening? I may need to consider such for my PM30 when it arrives.

[Starleper1]

I forget the dimensions off the top of my head.

The thickness is 3/8" 90 "A" durometer

The company I work for specializes in custom molded thermoset polyurethane. So I had them pour me a pad free of charge.

Check out McMaster I know they sell polyurethane pads. They have one of the best search engines of any industrial supplier. If they don't have what your looking for, it probably doesn't exist.

~Scott

[photomankc]

Also I wanted to add. I HATE the drawbar. It is a horrible design.

I plan to make a normal drawbar.

I'd love to see what you make. I hate that drawbar too. Wish I had a lathe.

My first real project will be getting the 20" scale I have added to the X axis. Then I'll add a 14" or 16" to the Z. I've got the X tram fine tunning blocks ready to go just as soon as I can get the motor to turn again.

Just FYI. I found more detailed info on the speed controller board (bad copy though). Might help folks who want to do something exotic. I may look at making my own panel and digital controller to set the speed.

http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kblc_manual.pdf

The KBIC appears very similar and the copy is much more readable:
http://www.galco.com/techdoc/kb/ic/kbic_im.pdf

[Starleper1]

Great find. From the looks of it, you can use a 0-10V Analog signal. This would let you use something like the cnc4pc.com C6 board to control the spindle speed in mach3.

[madbee]

Starleper, could I ask how you checked the X,Y tolerences? If I run an indicator along one of the "runways", I only get around .001. However, the other runway give me around .005. Not sure if adjusting the gibs would help. Did you just run your indicator across the table for the X...and only on one runway? Thanks.

The spec sheet they give with it, was all but dead on as far as I can tell. The only thing that was off was the Y tram. There sheet said .02mm I measured .101mm or .004"

I just shimmed it with a .002" shim. The Y is now within .0002 and the X is about the same.

[Starleper1]

What do you mean "runways"?

Are you referring to the t-slot?

[madbee]

Starleper1, the table is divided by 3 t-slots. So if you ran an indicator across the X-axis, you could rest it on different parts of the table. Kind of like an airport runway, but I am sure no-one else call it that.

[Starleper1]

I indicated on the center of the table with a .0001" test indicator. I don't think the gibs have anything to do with the "runways" varying.