Welcome to the Zone,
The Router will not cut any differently with either BOB.
Issue 1# Do you you need the solid state relay options to control a spindle or coolant pump etc...
Issue 2# Do you need Charge Pump safety?
Jeff Alessi
Hi guys!!
Been lingering for a little while now! Like the rest of yous, I got the bug for this CNC stuff.
I'm a Marine Engineer by trade, but have the luxury for working in a machine shop right nowBut we have no CNC equipment
I Can't build a machine at work, but I have all the wood working equipment at home to build a wooden mill.
I have a base design I'd like to go with, BuildyourCNC I'm basing my build off of this one, plus added a few ideas of my own, compliments of you guys!!
I'm still a little weak in the electronics side of this, so I would like to get an easily assmebled kit. From what I've read/heard about Keling is a great place.
So here is my list of what I think I want/need.
I've based this off the 'CNC 3 Axis Package with 425 oz-in motor and KL-4030 Bipolar Driver with 36V /6.6A Power Supply'
Basically a better PSU and a better driver boared:
Is the 48v PSU too much for this?
- 3 x NEMA 23 BIPOLAR STEPPER MOTOR 425oz-in KL23H286-20-8B (1/4” shaft with a flat)
- 3 x KL- 5042 Microstepping Driver
- C10 Bidirectional Breakout Board
- KL-350-48 48V/7.3A 110V/230V
Is the C11 BOB worth the extra 100 bucks?
I plan on building a better unit later, but would like to get up and running fairly quickly...
I forsee most wood projects, but definately some aluminum ones as well.
I will be using a laminate rounter (for now)
Oh, and I'll be using a 1/2-10 acme for the drive rod.
Thanks!
Welcome to the Zone,
The Router will not cut any differently with either BOB.
Issue 1# Do you you need the solid state relay options to control a spindle or coolant pump etc...
Issue 2# Do you need Charge Pump safety?
Jeff Alessi
Last edited by jalessi; 06-25-2008 at 12:55 AM. Reason: Bad information
Relays for the spindle and coolant pump would be a 'nice' add on for later,
and for the Charge Pump, nah, not really needed.
So the C10 will suffice for this build, thanks...
How about the PSU... the 5042 can handle 50v, but I don't want to push limits on themperature build up, and the 7.3A should be enough right?
This system is going into a computer case, with some good of ventilation...
Anouther quick question, what size wire should be used between the Drivers and Steppers... I'm thinking wires about 10 feet long...
Thanks,
Chris
Chris,
Your power supply choice is fine.
Minimum 22 gauge wire or larger.
Make sure you get Dual Shaft Steppers just in case your machine develops harmonic or resonance issues.
Jeff...
Sometimes you have to look who is giving advice. A charge pump ISN'T something just for for Ghecko drives. Ever since Mariss told jalessi fairly bluntly that he wasn't getting free examples to play with because he wasn't a vender and never had done business with them before, he has been making statements disparaging ghecko drives.
A charge pump is used to make sure that the computer is in control. When the controlling computer is working properly, it puts out a pulsed signal that the charge pump reads. No pulsed signal, it shuts down the drives and no step or direction pulses get through. Charge pumps are SAFETY devices used on BOBs and are used in conjunction with Mach and EMC2 control programs. There may be others, but I know these put out a signal for the charge pump to read.
What you are building is pretty much a JGRO, and there are free plans here. You may also want to study up on the Joe2006. I'm assuming you're building to your own design. You haven't said how big you're making this. If you're building 24 x 48 or there abouts, you don't need such strong motors. Properly sized motors can actually be faster than over sized motors. Look up both Joe2006 and JGRO and study the plans. You may come across tricks and ideas that will help your design.
The C11 will allow you to grow with your next machine. As you understand more about your control program, you'll see it can send signals to turn your spindle and vacume cleaner on. No worries about starting the router when it is all done through the Gcode. Do you need the C11 for a first buiuld? No. You don't need the super strong steppers either. As you seem to be buying with an eye to the next machine, spending the extra money now or then is your call. You do need a BOB with opto isolation, and a few other bells and whistles though, like the charge pump.
For a faster machine, go with two start lead screws, and don't waste your funds on ball screws for a wooden router. Last, take what folks say here with a grain of cynicism. Some come across as knowledgeable, and are really scarey folks to be following. Myself included. Best to do more research on the JGRO and Joe2006 and read about the builds of others. Let the ones that have made the mustakes before you keep you from repeating them.
Thank you MrWild.
Yes, my concept build is taken off the Joe2006 plans, and modified a little bit. Size is 24x48.
What would you recommend for a BOB? The C11 is opto iso'd. The C10 isn't.
Also, I would like some limit switches in there for the safety aspect as well.
Thanks all
Chris
Chris ,
MrWild is correct about the function of a charge pump.
I made a honest mistake stating the C11 was designed for the Gecko, the C11G was designed exclusively for the Gecko drive.
Mr Wild your comments are totally out of line.
I have never made a negative comment about a Gecko product or bad rapped one.
I have never asked Gecko for a free bee, I did in fact offer to pay for a pre-production version.
I have suggested Gecko products to many Zone members, even though I don't agree with Gecko's arrogant attitude at times.
Our company has purchased Gecko products in the past and will purchase more in the future or until a better product comes along.
Jeff Alessi
MrWild,
Since we are knit picking, why not learn how to spell GECKO?
Jeff Alessi
All anyone has to do is read the cheap drive thread in the ghecko forum. Just because most people kept their mouths shut when Derstap nailed you, doesn't mean we all gave you a bye. My perceptions of how you view Ghecko are based soley on comments you have made such as a charge pump only being needed with Ghecko drives. Misinformed, maybe, but you tend to bring the Ghecko drives up whenever there is something that may cast a negative light on them such as implying only ghecko drives would need a safety feature like a charge pump. i.e. they aren't reliable and need the added safety of a charge pump versus some other drive.
As for the C10, it is a decent BOB. I am using it on my JGRO with a C4 add on charge pump and Ghecko drives. If your drives are opto isolated, then opto isolation in your BOB isn't necassary. For a servo build I'm gathering parts for, I have a Bob Campbell everything BOB at $325. If I were to rethink that purchase, I'd probably go with the C11 instead. The C10 has enough inputs and outputs for over travel/home switches. There are not enough pins in a single parallel port to do two over travel and a home limit switch for each axis so the functions are combined. Instead of a switch on each side of an axis, one switch is centralized and two actuating offsets that contact the swith lever are located to either side of the axis. The software then uses the over travel limit switch to also set a home. If you use two parrallel ports, you could set up a second C10 and have all sorts of limit switches AND remote MPG. I picked up a neat parallel card with two P-ports off eBay. Tons of pins for running everything. Alas, I only use one of the P-ports.
Mr Wild,
I have no problem expressing myself and am not making passive aggressive statements about Gecko or any other vendor.
If I thought Gecko products where substandard or defective I would express exactly that, however I have never made any such statement ever.
I am a still Gecko product fan, what you are implying is a bad joke.
Please stop clowning around.
Jeff Alessi
Hi again guys... heres a little update, the KL-5042 is out of stock,
the KL 8056 , KL-4030 or KL-6050 are in stock
My origional plan was to take the 4030 with a 36v PSU, but both are outa stock...
I think the 6050 is out due to the lack of stepping options.
so that leaves the 8056, but increase the bill anouther 60 bucks
Other option is to wait it out for about 5-6 weeks till new stock comes in...
is the kl-8056 alright?
Chris,
If you can wait a little, Gecko is coming out with a new 3.5 amp drive
Models G250 and G251 3.5 amp 50 volt micro stepping, they have not released a price or firm shipping date.
You might want to ask Marriss about it.
Jeff...