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#1
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Just want to sort of jump up and down with enthusiasm. I purchased the Keling CNC 3 Axis Package with 425 oz-in motor and KL-4030 Driver $389 and can report that I'm very happy with it. This is my second DIY CNC machine, but this time I wanted to double the torque. I couldn't resist the price. I liked the idea of separate modules for each motor, a BOB and I wanted a power supply too. John was very helpful in getting me setup. We ran into a few snags, but nothing that John couldn't help me with. Here are some pictures taken last night. With a 1/2 Acme single start lead screw, half stepping the motor, I got it to jog at 75 ips. I'm a couple days away from cutting my first piece of wood. Dave Last edited by Glidergider; 03-15-2007 at 11:33 PM. Reason: I had a small identity crisis. My name is Dave |
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#3
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| hi Dave. i am also looking at getting this kit for my x2 mill with cncbridges X-Y table. Your setup is looking great. Any chance of providing a simple sketch of the wirings and any resistor or transistor being used with the kit? What were the problem you had and was sorted out by keling? Thanks in advance. More pictures please. Alex Last edited by alexccmeister; 03-16-2007 at 11:01 AM. |
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#4
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| First of all, I have to laugh at myself. My name is Dave, I don't know why I signed as John in that first post. Never fear, I've fixed my first post. Anyway, regarding the wiring diagram, here's a link that should be all you need for wiring. Go here to see my scrappy build log. I have some pictures on post 93 and 94 of the Keling hardware. I'm just about finished with my build. Sign me Dave (for real) PS, if you happen to call Keling for help, well you will be talking to John |
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#7
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| Hi Ferverx, Always remember that I'm a newbie at this stuff too. I've read a lot of posts, but what I do may not be good for you. Tonight, I'll take some pics of my RatShack micro switches. When you solder the switch always use the NC lugs. Thus the switch is always closed in normal operation. That's the best option for safety. If the wire breaks your machine stops. If the switch is contacted the machine stops. Either way you are safe. I have 4 circuits. 3 of them are Home circuits for the -x, -y and -z axis. The 4th circuit is a series circuit of +x, +y and +z switches. If any of those switches opens, then the machine stops. In Mach3, the software gives you the option to find the home or negative x,y&z limits of your machine. This is helpful at times. Look again at that schematic link. It shows how easy a limit switch is to connect. Dave |
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#8
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| tnx Its just that I am learning...trying to figure out which product to order. I live in EU and we have some regulations that prohibit to order xylotex drives We also have 230VAC electricity not 150VAC (or "V", I really don't know), so all kits made in US are not compliant lots of problems... P.S. Where do you wire the 4th circuit - there are free 12, 13, 15 for limit switches. Are you using also 11. (numbers based on wiring diagram, you linked above). |
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#9
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| Yes, I'm using 11, 12, 13 and 15. |
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#10
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I am just curious and hope you can help me to answer this. I know what are limit switches used for, but what I don't know is what happen if you don't use a limit switch in your axis? Will the table slide off the ball screw or something like that if there isn't any switches? Also, I read somewhere that you need 2 limit switches for both x and Y axis and only 1 switch for the z. Is that how you set up your mill? Thanks. |
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#11
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| Actually, right now I'm only running with three minus home switches. I do plan to add the 3 plus switches. What I risk is an unattended machine running wild. Some of these machines are so strong that they can break themselves if they run to the end. To many variables to speculate. It would be easy to design a CAD part larger then your table's bed. The software won't necessarily know that its going to exceed its bed size. The limit switches stop a runaway router. Last edited by Glidergider; 03-17-2007 at 12:22 PM. |
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