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    Registered EricBear's Avatar
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    New Member

    Is a cordless drill suitable to be modified for use as power feed on a Hafco HM46 drill mill.
    https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Pr...stockCode=M123


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    That depends on teh cordless drill. I used a Black and Decker on my X2. The controller is my own design using PWM and the power supply is a computer power supply.

    As I had a "spare" 5 volt rail it is used to drive a light ring positioned around the spindle to light the work-piece.

    Cheers,

    Andrew


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    Registered EricBear's Avatar
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    Smile Came across some Stepper motors

    Quote Originally Posted by aka9950202 View Post
    That depends on teh cordless drill. I used a Black and Decker on my X2. The controller is my own design using PWM and the power supply is a computer power supply.

    As I had a "spare" 5 volt rail it is used to drive a light ring positioned around the spindle to light the work-piece.

    Cheers,

    Andrew
    Hi Andrew thanks for the help i ended up with 4 stepper motors that runs on 12-300 volts so i am madly trying to work out how to get them to work?

    Eric


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    combine it with a 3 axis stepper driver, breakout board, power supply and pc and you've got yourself a CNC mill...
    Machinists do it with greater precision and less tolerance!


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    Hi, a 12 volt cordless drill is just a 12 volt Dc motor with reduction gearbox to get the torque, and a trigger control to vary the speed, and if'n you're lucky a 2 speed setting to get high and low torque settings for screw driving/drilling.

    If'n you go on Ebay you can get 12 volt controllers on a small circuit board to control a 12 volt motor (windscreen wiper motor?) up to 10 amps for about $20 post free, and this gives you an infinitely variable speed control, but you'll need a primary reduction to get the torque up as the motors won't rotate slowly under load without overheating.
    Ian.


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    Still able to use drill?

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    Hi, a 12 volt cordless drill is just a 12 volt Dc motor with reduction gearbox to get the torque, and a trigger control to vary the speed, and if'n you're lucky a 2 speed setting to get high and low torque settings for screw driving/drilling.

    If'n you go on Ebay you can get 12 volt controllers on a small circuit board to control a 12 volt motor (windscreen wiper motor?) up to 10 amps for about $20 post free, and this gives you an infinitely variable speed control, but you'll need a primary reduction to get the torque up as the motors won't rotate slowly under load without overheating.
    Ian.
    So Ian, Can I still use the drill motor ans reduction box on power feed with the 12volt speed controller?
    Eric


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    Hi Eric, I expect so, the drill is just a 12 volt DC motor, but you'll have to cannabalize it and seperate the innards to make a bolt on "box" that you can attach underneath the mill table to the screw.

    The biggest problem is connecting it to the screw on the mill, as you will want to disconnect it both mechanically and electrically for manual operating.

    I would suggest that you connect the motor output to the screw with a vee belt and pulley, pivoted on a hinge etc to allow the belt to go slack as a "disconnect" mechanism when you stop the drive.....making a mechanical clutch interface might be a steep uphill redesign exercise.

    Also I'd look at an old computer ATX power supply as a replacement for the battery.

    Most milldrill add on feed drives bolt on at the end of the feed screw, and are designed to just bolt on without major rework......at least the ones for the Bridgeport type mills do.
    Ian.


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    Registered EricBear's Avatar
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    Thanks for the good tips

    Quote Originally Posted by handlewanker View Post
    Hi Eric, I expect so, the drill is just a 12 volt DC motor, but you'll have to cannabalize it and seperate the innards to make a bolt on "box" that you can attach underneath the mill table to the screw.

    The biggest problem is connecting it to the screw on the mill, as you will want to disconnect it both mechanically and electrically for manual operating.

    I would suggest that you connect the motor output to the screw with a vee belt and pulley, pivoted on a hinge etc to allow the belt to go slack as a "disconnect" mechanism when you stop the drive.....making a mechanical clutch interface might be a steep uphill redesign exercise.

    Also I'd look at an old computer ATX power supply as a replacement for the battery.

    Most milldrill add on feed drives bolt on at the end of the feed screw, and are designed to just bolt on without major rework......at least the ones for the Bridgeport type mills do.
    Ian.
    I had a spring clean the other day and one of the items I kept, as I thought it would come in handy one day Is a power supply from a old com tower, lucky keep by the looks of it. I have 3 old GMC cordless drills that I am sure will do the job. I also have a new Lathe AL-320G
    L141 | AL-320G Bench Lathe | machineryhouse.com.au
    I am going to see if I can use one of the drills to power the lead screw as I have to manually change gears to get different feed speeds which has been a pain to date.
    Eric


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    Just giving your drill motor idea a think, and I'd go mechanical if'n all you want is to have an adjustable feed rate which doesn't have to be any particular precise rate like screw cutting.

    You could have two variable pulleys with an "O" ring to act as a drive belt, like the vari speed drive they have on the Bridgeport heads, only much simpler.

    The drive would just be two sets of pulleys, maybe even in place of the screw cutting gears, for when you're not actually doing screw cutting, that could be pressed together to make the "O" ring ride high or low in the drive pulley and vice a versa the driven pulley, not much power required to turn the lead screw for feeding.....a regular small section vee belt doesn't give you enough movement in the pulley vees to go from top to bottom due to the sharper angle of the belt sides.....you need a wide section but thin belt to allow the pulleys to squeeze together, but also not to collapse sideways.

    Come to think of it, that's just what I need for the lathe I built, as I've been hand feeding it for years via a handle on the right hand end of the leadscrew.
    Ian.


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    Its own speed controller

    Hi Ian.
    Love it when members realize that the help and advice thew are giving is actually something they could use or do them selves. I was wondering if i could use the exiting speed controller on the drill? It has a forward and reverse already.

    Eric


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    Hi Eric, you'll probably want to strip the guts out of the drill to get at the module that does the controlling, the electronic bit, which is probably SCR based, then you can customise the movement to convert it to a rotary control instead of the springloaded short travel trigger control so that it can be calibrated and preset and hold a position as required.....but you might only have a sealed unit so a bit of ingenuity is called for.

    If you really want to get sophisticated and spend a bob or two, go on Ebay and google the range of small 12 volt geared motors that will run on the speed control (with a DC power supply) I mentioned earlier......motor/gearbox ratios go from output 3 rpm up to about 1000 rpm, different motor packages, and cost about $10 each thereabouts.

    You might find coupling the drill innards to the lathe a bit of a challenge, especially if'n you don't have a reliable battery for the drill, but any 12 volt small lead acid battery used in security sustems would also do the trick if'n you wanted a seperate power source, but I'd personally prefer to go to a 12 volt transformer/rectifier in place of a battery, intercoupled to the drive motor so that the feed motor only runs when the lathe runs, or if you have one, you could use a battery charger to supply the power.

    Have you thought about how you're going to couple the motor to the leadscrew so that you can get manual control too when the feed is off.....some form of dog clutch is required like a simple sliding sleeve on the shaft and a pin to engage in a slot etc.
    Ian.


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    Smile Thanks for the good tips.

    Thanks for that Ian I hope to use a metal/rubber coupling for the clutching system.
    The motors on eBay sound good I think the speed controllers can be found on eBay as well. I am very handy with my hands however its the mathematical side of what size motor I need and what thing-a-me-jig to control the speed if I go looking on eBay. not sure if i mentioned I am hoping to use a similar motor and make a power feed for my mill table. as well as the vertical feed up and down on the dovetail. I am currently using a cordless drill to raise and lower the head I only have a temp setup for this (socket on drill onto crank handle shaft ) works fairly well however I will need to set up something better. I did a refit at a factory just after the Brisbane floods and ended up getting a lot of I hope useable stuff Like Gear Belt pulleys,bearings, shafts, controllers, power packs.
    Please keep the Ideas coming Its all extremely helpful to me. It is Just about Xmas here, So a Merry one to you and all. and a enjoyable new Year.


    Eric


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