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Thread: Suitable table surfaces

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    Member pari's Avatar
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    Default Suitable table surfaces

    I'm wondering about what to do with my router surface not being flat. There is a multitude of dings and gouges from bits going where they shouldn't have gone so my first step will be to level them as best as possible. But then I want to adhere a layer onto the bed, strips covering the panels between the 'T' slots, and machine it flat. As I don't use the vacuum table I'm not concerned about covering the holes for vacuum.
    I've noticed on some Chinese models of router that they have a black material on the bed.... what is that?
    So I'm think I would still like to through on a spoil sheet and keep the resurfaced bed material untouched. So a material that could handle moisture from coolant and other debris would be preferable but relatively inexpensive and available.......any suggestions please?!


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    Community Moderator Jim Dawson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    Delrin would be the best choice. UHMW would work, but it's somewhat sensitive to temperature changes and will expand and contract. Micarta would also work well. Aluminum would also work well.



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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    Hi Jim, thanks for the reply. I will check these out to see where I can get them and what it'll cost. Of course I didn't think about using aluminium but that would be a good choice. Any suggestions on fixing down? I want to be able to remove it when I decide to sell the machine.


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    Community Moderator Jim Dawson's Avatar
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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    I would use flat head screws for any of the materials, countersunk well below the surface.



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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    if you don't need the Z hight just use 16mm mdf with either a double sided tape or counter bored holes. If u cut ally you will be using metho or a petroleum based lube and mdf isnt bothered by them, only water swells it.
    MDF can be surfaced flat many times before u just mount another layer on top of the old. Cheap and ez and u will not cry when you cut WAY too deep
    I just slop some epoxy resin on the old and weight down a new sheet



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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    The MDF and double sided tape sounds easy enough and inexpensive to try. My Z height is only 70mm so I would want to keep it to a minimum thickness. I suppose with that setup I have. Hoover to use a spoil boat d or not. I haven't even tried aluminium on my machine yet, I may find that it's no good at it as my Z axis is a bit dodgy.
    Thanks for the tips so far


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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    I have a 6040, so same low Z, and ally was a disaster with the original setup
    I have changed all electronics, Gecko 540 @ 48V, and the cables for screened type. The couplers were changed to oldham type which are bloody expensive but they work.
    Ally is now ok but not brilliant like you would get from a proper mill.
    I have built a bigger much more rigid machine so now ally is quite impressive. This thread reminds me i must get the little beast advertised



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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    I'm guessing your table isn't large. On mine they have HDPE. Don't ask what the cost was, cause I don't know.

    Maybe a trip to a local plastics joint will get you an offcut of suitable size.

    All of my sewing tables are MDF with a clear cabotane coating. On spots where I have damaged the coating, get a bit of water in there (wet tarp) and it swells. Now I am using full sheets (1200 x 2400mm) and it does move a fair amount over the course of a year. Temp ranges about -2 to low 40s over a year here in the shed. If it was me i would probably look at something else apart from MDF, but hey the stuff is obviously working for others.

    I know the cost issue is a biggie for hobbyists, and its fine for the a general shed table or lightweight shelving. But thats about all I would use it for.

    Just some random canvas guy


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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    Quote Originally Posted by jatt View Post
    I'm guessing your table isn't large. On mine they have HDPE. Don't ask what the cost was, cause I don't know.

    Maybe a trip to a local plastics joint will get you an offcut of suitable size.

    All of my sewing tables are MDF with a clear cabotane coating. On spots where I have damaged the coating, get a bit of water in there (wet tarp) and it swells. Now I am using full sheets (1200 x 2400mm) and it does move a fair amount over the course of a year. Temp ranges about -2 to low 40s over a year here in the shed. If it was me i would probably look at something else apart from MDF, but hey the stuff is obviously working for others.

    I know the cost issue is a biggie for hobbyists, and its fine for the a general shed table or lightweight shelving. But thats about all I would use it for.
    My table is a little over 1200 x 1200, so whatever material I go with I'd be laying 1220x1220. In familiar with HDPE. Do you know how yours was held in place? And what do you use to hold down your MDF? I'm on the north cost of NSW so temperature is probably similar to yours between summer and winter, humidity could also be a problem in summer.


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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    I'm in central Vic.

    Do you know how yours was held in place?
    Mine is a vacuum table with ally "boards" underneath the actual cutting area. From underneath they remind me a bit of the ally planks they use to make the floor of ute trays. Because mine is of a fair size (3200 x3600mm) the HDPE sheets are interlocked, the edges with a routed out jigsaw puzzle pattern. Outside the cut/vac area I have melamine sheets under the HDPE. My table is only 6 months old and you can already see movement between the sheets of melamine.

    The HDPE sheets on mine measure out about 2400 x1220 mm. I say about cause as this is a commercially built table. They may have trimmed some off in the process of cutting the zigsaw edges.

    Humidity. We don't get a lot of days over 70%.

    Do you know how yours was held in place?
    There is countersunk screws holding it down and some sort of hard, clear stuff to fill in the holes. Unfort I didn't get to look at them assembling it as much as I would have liked to.

    The actual frame under it all is ally with the slots in it.

    Just some random canvas guy


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    Default Re: Suitable table surfaces

    Yes like that, that's what I want to do. My t nuts are not simpler but same idea.


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