Hello after visting the site for a while I came across the free plans by jrgo and finaly started building all most got the base done.Will have pics soon after battery charges up on cam. I was just wondering where is a good place
to order the stepper motor I wanna go ahead and get them,to get them out of the way and instead of the paralle port do they have controlls for USB port.This is a alsome site I'm still learing alot.

Yes there are USB controllers. I just can't remember which ones. :rolleyes:

Could yall recommend me what type of stepper motor to use.

well i got the base doen finaly had to recut some pices working on the other pices.
Was toying with the ideal of making the Gantry a little higher so i can some sculpting
with it has any body conveterd the machine to a 5 axis machine.

Well i got my other parts cuts finaly and bought all the bolts and nuts The guy at the
hardware store said your gonna bolt the it down arnt you..lol
Hay whiteriver and dwright thank you for helping me out.

Why don't you want to use a parallel port controller? If you don't have one on your computer (my laptop doesn't) you can get a dock that will plug into your USB. I just bought a Belkin USB2 Dockstation on eBay for about $25, though I've seen them go for much cheaper. I'm sure there are other solutions.

Other than Deskcnc (serial), most of the (cheaper) controllers used by folk on this board are parallel ported.

oh ok i only thought they made dock staion for usb thanks i'll have to check out ebay.

hello well i had to take a break from the machine waiting on some parts finaly got bearing found then on ebay I ordered some metal parts from mcmaster.com it only
took about a day to get here they where local now i'm back to working on machine
just about got all the pices to start building next i need stepper motors, router,and software could yall recamend on any i saw the kit from the hobby cnc store how well
do they work ?

also was wondering what works better for the cutting bed the hold down channels
or the holes drilled into the cutting bed sure would appreciate some feed back on this
cant make up my mind which way i wanna go.

Hello well here my machine finaly got all most all of if it done needing the electronics and motor's I'm gonna have to wait after putting it together and showing stepdad
he said i was a 1/4" off and in some spots the wood swelled up do to the weather here in the south...lol It made it hard to push a long the roller,and one side of the bearing would slip off the pipe Well back to the drawing board I'm thinking of scrapping this one and building next one out of metal,plexi,and derlin.
Any suggestion should i stick with this one or start over after being a 1/4" off ?
P.S= Do mesaure twice and then cut all ways helps....lol

Seems a shame to scrap it just yet. Which bit is 1/4" off?
If you can make the pipes parallel with adjustment blocks, you should
be able to bring the bearings up to it, maybe with some shims.
Epoxy putty is also great stuff for filling gaps and making surfaces true.
If you can perservere with this one and learn all the electronics and software side of it,
then use the machine to make a bigger better one, like joe2000che has done.

Hi 10bulls I'm still looking at it and checking on where i made the mistake.Thanks for Joe2000che info i went to his thread and do like
that machine and the ideal of using derlin for the pip fitting. Last night
i even tride mounting the beariing vertical and harizontal it came a little
close but was still off.I may have to bring the pipes in closer that may help.

Why don't you want to use a parallel port controller? If you don't have one on your computer (my laptop doesn't) you can get a dock that will plug into your USB. I just bought a Belkin USB2 Dockstation on eBay for about $25, though I've seen them go for much cheaper. I'm sure there are other solutions.

Other than Deskcnc (serial), most of the (cheaper) controllers used by folk on this board are parallel ported.

Dogsione, have you actually used the dockstation with any parallel port CNC software? I tried that but it doesn't work because the dockstation parallel port, as well as all other USB->Parallel port dongle, are meant for printers. They do not allow direct/realtime access to the parallel port pins which is crucial for the CNC software to work. Please let me know if you manage to get it to work :)

If you use a notebook without parallel port, the only option I know is to buy PCMCIA-based parallel port. Several brands in the market, cost about USD80-USD120 depending on where you get them.

I would have liked to have tried except that the computer I paid for on eBay never arrived... :mad: :violin: So, yes, I bought the dockstation and thought I'd have a computer to go with it.

I do have another laptop arriving this afternoon (I hope) that I'll be able to test this weekend.

I apologize if I gave erroneous advice.

tbenefi33 if you have already purchased a dock and find it doesn't work , let me know and I'll buy it from you for your costs.

Hello How yall doing.
As yall may know I had problem putting this machine together was down there working on it last night trying all kind of ways to get the bearing to line up i found
several measuring mistake on all three axis
that suck big time no way of fixing it except for starting over on a new project as they say rome wasnt built in a day.
I'm glad i got all my metal parts for the next one....lol
On the next one I'm thinking on making it half the size what the first one would have been because i wanna build micro robot's and micro uav robot's any suggestion on a size of a
machine that could do that would greatly appreceate it ?

Well i thought i would had to scrap this project but i remade some of the pices that
was off and there lining up alot better and i lower the ballbearing a little and there
rolling a lot better Hopfully by the end of the month i'll have the motor on there any good places to order some motor and coupling that are pretty quick to deliver.I figure
done got this far and i'm not gonna let this machine whip me.....:-) lol

Hello how yall doing Well i finaly got the wood part of the machine built i got it linning up right i'm not a 1/4" off any more :-)) the only thing i need now is the electronics
( stepper motor kits ) has any body used the hobby cnc kits was thinking of using them ?

Yes i use it with my machine..... And it works really well...

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10067

can you call and order the hobby cnc or hafe to order off the site ?

hi joe2000che curious what oz. did you get i'm kind of eye balling the 127 oz. kit

Hi i am a new one here on forum,but i have degree in Mehatronics i worked on couple of german made machines that were for A3 paper dimensions cuting tables...now i have question...what is the amount of money needed to put in this project to get one A3 cuting table,and what are the mistakes made by the machine if one is made(from cheep parts).I whuld like to make this machine couse i am layzy cutng balsa for my RC projects..and i need some kind of a hobby to fill my time..so if any of u can direct me to one of the forums that covers this cind of machine...or topic..please help...

Best regards Stjepan from Croatia...

You're in exactly the right place.

Of course, all engineering involves tradeoffs and design decisions, but a light weight machine to cut something as soft as balsa wood need not be complicated. Common materials can be put to creative uses, and end up giving excellent results.

If I understand you, you are asking what impact on performance choosing inexpensive components will have. That's a complicated question, but here's a simple answer.

ALL machines have weaknesses, and most of them can be summed up in two words. Flex and backlash.

You can address flex by making your machine as rigid as possible, but realize that there is a point of diminishing returns. In woodworking, accuracy over .01" is rarely needed...truth be known, for most applications in woodworking, .1" is close enough.

Backlash is the "wiggle" or the looseness present between the screw and the nut. A preloaded nut can give a tight fit, but at the expense of additional drag which requires a bigger motor. Again, keep in mind the tolerances you require, and design for those.

Welcome to the forum, Stjepan. It's nice to meet you.

-- Chuck Knight

well I am sorry about my poor English...well when i was in school i tried to start this kind of project...but all of my professors seed that the ball-screws are the most expensive...is it possible to make one for about 300 €?(can i use ball-screws of the printers,and their step motors?) Cause i really need about A4 cutting space...?and i still did not catch how do you control this machines?is there any free software?I really don't need big precision..about .1, to .5 mm( oh and...inches are really com fusing to me) just to cut balsa...and some plywood... maybe Plexiglas...but that is just maybe..the primary function is for cutting balsa...PS. I can get access to the one milling table so i can almost all parts make by another mill( A3 is my limitation)...Oh and what are the speeds needed for the cutting head to cut the balsa without spliting it at halve?

PS I am sorry.y if i ask questions that are already answered somewhere in this forum...but this forum is huge...


Stjepan

hi strumer well right now i'm on hold on my project cause it summer time here..lol i have every thing done and all i needs is the electronics and flang bearing So far i got all most $400.00 in the project .Its safe to say you'll probley spend around $600.00 to a $1,000.00.Shop around and look for the cheaper price I'm still looking for some stepper moters.

Hi Dogsione I found a local pc store i might check them out on a dock station.But if i find one i'll let you know.

well I am sorry about my poor English...well when i was in school i tried to start this kind of project...but all of my professors seed that the ball-screws are the most expensive...is it possible to make one for about 300 €?

How good are you at finding/adapting to surplus parts? For example, the old HP LaserJet printers all had a very useful 100 oz in stepper motor in them, which many of us have used in our own machines.

Your professors were quite correct about ballscrews being the most expensive leadscrews. BUT, the precision of ballscrews is not needed for a woodworking router. Their low friction is desirable, but the increase in cost makes it an unacceptable tradeoff.

Many people use standard threaded rod. Bearing supports can be made from RollerBlade skate bearings -- the ID of the standard bearings is 8mm, which is fit by 8mm threaded rod.

A step up in quality, accuracy, and efficiency can be had by using ACME threaded rod.

You're a mechanical engineer -- I've never met a single ME who did not enjoy recycling discarded parts into usable machines.

(can i use ball-screws of the printers,and their step motors?) Cause i really need about A4 cutting space...?

Refresh my memory on the dimensions of an A4 sheet. Metric is fine. I believe it's a standard piece of typing/copier paper, right?

and i still did not catch how do you control this machines?is there any free software?I really don't need big precision..about .1, to .5 mm( oh and...inches are really com fusing to me) just to cut balsa...and some plywood... maybe Plexiglas...but that is just maybe..the primary function is for cutting balsa...

There are a couple of steps. Do you understand the electronics needed? Basically, what happens is that the software reads an instruction to move the X axis 25mm, and then converts that into the needed number of steps. Out the parallel port come electrical pulses, which are received by a driver circuit. This translates those low level signals into something capable of actually driving the motors.

There are some really good programs to interpret the G-Code. EMC is a free program which runs under LINUX, TurboCNC is a shareware program that runs under DOS, and there are a few really good ones which run under Windows for various prices.

PS I am sorry.y if i ask questions that are already answered somewhere in this forum...but this forum is huge...

You're right. This is an amazing site, with an enormous amount of information. It's actually difficult to find the necessary information, without dedicating a week or two to actually reading everything on it.

-- Chuck Knight

How good are you at finding/adapting to surplus parts? For example, the old HP LaserJet printers all had a very useful 100 oz in stepper motor in them, which many of us have used in our own machines.
Well i was thinking something like that,well all of my stuff that i made/make is made from scrap...very few things i buy...well i am student which is working to pay of his intuition..and life costs(i am from pretty poor family)but my curious nature is stronger then my low budget so.. :)


Many people use standard threaded rod. Bearing supports can be made from RollerBlade skate bearings -- the ID of the standard bearings is 8mm, which is fit by 8mm threaded rod.
Refresh my memory on the dimensions of an A4 sheet. Metric is fine. I believe it's a standard piece of typing/copier paper, right?
Yes it is standarad printig paper size...


There are a couple of steps. Do you understand the electronics needed? Basically, what happens is that the software reads an instruction to move the X axis 25mm, and then converts that into the needed number of steps. Out the parallel port come electrical pulses, which are received by a driver circuit. This translates those low level signals into something capable of actually driving the motors.

Yes i do understand the electronic part of the machine...i had few of my own concepts but i have terminated them because i did not know how to make software to control the machine... and i was afraid of the mistake it would made....and the software i used in school is simple(cad like)...is there free software which is CAD like?Or which uses DXF formatted drawings?Or that compiles the CAD drawing into code?
hi strumer well right now i'm on hold on my project cause it summer time here..lol i have every thing done and all i needs is the electronics and flang bearing So far i got all most $400.00 in the project .Its safe to say you'll probley spend around $600.00 to a $1,000.00.Shop around and look for the cheaper price I'm still looking for some stepper moters.
well if i use the stepper motors i got from the printers(or some where else) and if i scrap for almoust all the solid stuff,and buy just the electronics what whuld be the price..?

Can you build the electronics, or must you buy them pre-built? I don't know what things cost in your part of the world.

There is a kit in the US, called PICStep, which is only about $75 for a 3 axis setup. BUT, it's a kit. Other well known kits are Xylotex and HobbyCNC, both of which have excellent track records.

I doubt the electronics would cost you more than $100US, if bought in the United States.

You said you're a student. Does your school have an electronics program? Might one of the other students or maybe one of the more open-minded teachers be able to help with the electronics? There are super-simple stepper driver circuits available, on the web...not exceptionally efficient, but the cost is definitely right.

Stepper driver circuits are a fairly common project, in many electronics courses.

-- Chuck Knight

I"ve been eyeballing the kits on hobby cnc also hard alot good stuff about um some said they where eazy to put toghter not sure what the price is on them.I'll have to check the site out i havent been on there awhile.

I"ve been eyeballing the kits on hobby cnc also hard alot good stuff about um some said they where eazy to put toghter not sure what the price is on them.I'll have to check the site out i havent been on there awhile.

I use the HobbyCNC board the three axis is 79.00, yes is very easy to put together with his instructions that are included and he also has the yahoo forum that is helpful. I give it two thumbs up...

Well i was thinking something like that,well all of my stuff that i made/make is made from scrap...very few things i buy...well i am student which is working to pay of his intuition..and life costs(i am from pretty poor family)but my curious nature is stronger then my low budget so.. :)

Noone *likes* to pay full price for anything! And, happily, in this hobby there are almost always other options.

Getting creative with the parts is half the fun of building these machines!

Yes i do understand the electronic part of the machine...i had few of my own concepts but i have terminated them because i did not know how to make software to control the machine... and i was afraid of the mistake it would made....and the software i used in school is simple(cad like)...is there free software which is CAD like?Or which uses DXF formatted drawings?Or that compiles the CAD drawing into code?

It's a multi-step process using the free tools, but it works really well.

Step 1, draw your part in a CAD program, save it as a DXF file.
Step 2, use a CAM rogram to convert it to G-Code. This is a type of programming language that syas things like move the X axis +25mm, and move the Y axis -47mm.
Step 3, run the G-Code through a controller program like TurboCNC. http://www.dakeng.com is their URL, I think. This program turns the instructions in G-Code into the needed pulses to control *your* particular setup. You define that 200 steps (pulses) = 1 rotation, and each rotation is 1mm...that sort of thing. It does the calculations, and outputs the right stuff through the parallel port of your computer.

-- Chuck Knight

http://www.dakeng.com[/url] is their URL, I think. This program turns the instructions in G-Code into the needed pulses to control *your* particular setup. You define that 200 steps (pulses) = 1 rotation, and each rotation is 1mm...that sort of thing. It does the calculations, and outputs the right stuff through the parallel port of your computer.

-- Chuck Knight


i know the G-code in high school i had few exams in it....and i used it for couple of my home made projects...so i know how to use it...i am now on collage(i used machines in highschool...i have high school degree in mehatronics this is how education works in Croatia)

Is there any free shematic of full 3axis controller?(part list,shematic and pcb board pictures) so i can buy part by part...
( resistor by resistor :))

And i am definitively not interested in buying complete kits...it is just not fun... :)

hm...i have a another problem...the size and noise...i will probably use it in my room...so...i have pretty old and grounch neighbors... :)

i have contacted my old professor,and i will probably have the access to the milling machine so i could make all the parts on it...


and i have a another question,what kind of cutting tool i will need to cut balsa?! High speed drill?With a milling head?