Can anyone tell me the spec of these batteries? I need to source and order some for my dad's machine before I visit him next weekend. I made a note of them last time I was there, but of course I lost it...

Thanks, Gregor

:confused:Unless You have a modified board with external replaceable batteries, Ultimax2 memory board rely on the S-Rams for memory retention ( Batteries are in the S-Rams).
Could the note You made last time be of some other component ??

Thanks for the reply. It's not a modified board, just the later version with external lithium batteries. Even the boards with the dallas s-rams have the cutouts for batteries, they're just not there :)

Have a look in the RS catalogue or go to RSWWW.com. They are 3.6v lithium AA size with solder tags.

Have a look in the RS catalogue or go to RSWWW.com. They are 3.6v lithium AA size with solder tags.

Nice one, cheers!

I checked my memory board
and my KM3 is now 20 years old and still running with the Dallas S Rams.
No problems yet.
What can I do to keep it going ?
I have no floppy or tape drive, so the program is all internal.
Is it in these chips/batteries ?
ANy comment is welcome
Rich

Rich,
If is still OK after 20 Years, make a backup of Your screw map right away, there is a sequence to follow in order to get to that page " Enter ### Enter " from the start page ..I think ...?
I`ve got all the procedures at the shop, somewhere, along with the Dallas equivalent S-Ram numbers.
The master software is stored in the eproms on the board, opposite to the edge connector. I will try to find the procedure sometime next week so You can backup the screw mapping ( which You might need to do by hand )
Just wander if You have a way of connecting a floppy to the controller, How many cards do you have in the rack ? Do You have a RS232 port ? :cheers::cheers:

A.M.

Rich - Wow are you out on borrowed time!

My Uncles 1988 KM3 was one of the first MAX II units and the Self Destruct feature of the Dallas Memory started to manifest in 2000 and caused total failure before 2002.

Andrew - if you can post what ever info you have it would be helpful.

I use a KM3P with MAX32 so my stuff is on a HDD (yeah subject to failure without warning.)

At some point I may try to get uncles KM3 running again - will have to get the mem board modded and Dallas chips replaced and rebuild the screw map data. Also both CRT's are fried and would have to be replaced. I'm not reaching into my pocket for his machine, but if he ever decides to front the parts cost I'd do it.

I have a Hurco KM3. It takes a Rayovac-844. They don't make them any more. They have replacement. It is a 4.5V Alkaline Memory Backup Battery.
Hope this helps.
Dave

Amazon.com: RAYOVAC 844 Equivalent CMOS battery: Electronics

Next to the Dallas RAMs are four SRAMs. Buy four of these, put them in where the Dallas RAMs are, move jumper E89 over, solder in 3.6v lithiums in the three holes, put jumpers on the six sets of pins next to the batteries. Sorted.

Bloke and Andrew
Thank You.
The saga continues.
I have 5 Boards in the Ultimax II ( Ver 7.5 ?)
I have no RS232 connection, just two mil Plugs (8 pin as I recall)
There is no floppy or tape access, and there is a plate accross the normal location.

Bloke
I found the 89 pin, and it seems to be connected to 88 . pin 87 is the third pin and next to that
(I assume that the blue double plug on the pins is a connection plug ?)
I sound stupid, but I can't seem to find a substitute as I don't know what the specs are for the SRams. The numbers produce nothing that I can find

Am I in the right church pew ?
http://www.newark.com/jsp/search/browse.jsp?N=500003+1004042&Ntk=gensearch_001&Ntt=srams&Ntx=


The same for the battery
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=5268475
The one I found with tabs is "non- rechargable"
Is that correct ?
Will Ni-Cads work if it is a recharge-able circut ?

Sorry to be a pain in the butt for you chaps.
Any help is greatly appreciated by this retired machinist
Photos

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/StationarySteam/Shop%20Tools/MemoryBoardforHurco.jpg

http://i273.photobucket.com/albums/jj220/StationarySteam/Shop%20Tools/CloseupofHurcomemoryBoard.jpg

Move the E89 jumper down so it's covering the middle and bottom pins as in your picture.
Remove the six jumpers above the battery slots, solder in three 3.6v, non-rechargeable lithium batteries with solder tags then replace all six jumpers.
If you are on v7.xx software, you won't need to save the leadscrew map as compensation was set up on DIP switches on the dual axis boards before v8.xx software.
The SRAMs you should use would be CDM62256E10 or equivalent in place of the Dallas chips.

Terrific -Bloke---- Thank You !
I will purchase the parts and get back.
I'll post my Version today when I get the boards back in.
looks like its more important than I thought
I only remember talking to Hurco Tech Service back 7 years ago about
Monitor display, and for some reason the "7" sticks in my mind
Check my notes too.

When I got the Mill, ( 13K hrs) the text screen was sort of burned in and was shrunk, so I thought it was going bad.
I got a small monitor (used Apple ?) as a spare, but the text monitor is still working and seems to be better than the day I got it ???

Rich

You will want to use the AA size on those batteries.

I have the Max32 upgrade in my KM3. It has a plug in battery pack connected to the CPU board!
Dave

I have the Max32 upgrade in my KM3. It has a plug in battery pack connected to the CPU board!
Dave

Thats different. That battery holds the CMOS setup info such as time/date and your Hard disk CHS settings allowing your system to boot from the Hard disk. It does not maintain program memory like the older MaxII's. On a Max32 everything "Program" related is stored on the hard drive.

Edit: If this batt fails your system won't boot. There is a way to attach a normal keyboard so you can access the BIOS settings and reset them, but these settings will be lost every time you power off if batt is low or dead. - I plan to got into my BIOS settings and log all the info and make a sticker for the inside of the cabinet door. Likewise it would be prudent to copy the machine spec settings for a MAX II but I won't get into that process here.

Now My new question is could additional CDM62256E10 chips be added to increase storage capacity of the MaxII.

I have Max32 myself on my KM3p, But I'm keeping my eyes open for a cheap deal on a BMC20. :cool:

Bloke and Andrew

well I was wrong , I have a Version 8.5, and when I looked at my notes, it was something that Hurco tech guy said.. I think he said (?) all versions after 7.5 were color
But mine is still Black/Amber..that goes back to when the burn image seemd to be a problem. i was very confused back then ....and maybe still ?
Anyway, how do I map the leadscrew for my record?

I have a line on the SPROM 's and will get batteries too..thanks

Rich

Go to the manual page, then select the machine diagnostics screen. Type "enter" 642 "enter" to see the leadscrew map page. Write down all the forward and reverse figures for the X,Y & Z axes. When the memory has been replaced, simply repeat the process and re-enter the numbers. If you have a disk drive attached, you can save it as a file to be read back in after the swap.

Rich,
The replacement for the DS1235YW is now DS1230Y-150, I got mine from "Future Electronics" in Duluth GA . Pop the old ones out Pop the new ones in, and You are good to go.
I guess Bloke solution will work good too, that way, from now on, You only will be replacing batteries as needed.
Bloke also has the same procedure i have on retrieving and restoring the screw map. Don`t worry, is a piece of cake, just back Up the Screw map data ASAP

PS. I see that You are good in posting pictures, when You have time, and if You can, post a pic of the boards on the left-most side of the rack, that is the board where the Floppy drives are also connected.
We will compare it and see if is possible to add one drive

AM

Andrew, when I go to Future Electronics, those numbers do not work.
I have this for a battery reference for you to see if this is the same ?
http://www.tadiranbat.com/pdf.php?id=TL-4903
I assume (?) its OK
I tried to put some photos in Photobucket for you to see, but their software is acting up, and won't download my photos ??
So I did it using PM's photo server, but you need to click on the photos to enlarge
Anyway, I see that the second slot is for a
" (option) Disk Controller "
and it is empty..is this what you were looking for?

I am confused guys
If the batteries are not rechargable, does this mean mine have lasted for 20 years ?

Bloke
I powered up and "calibrated" the machine, was on the "Manual" screen, then hit the
#2 button for " Change Tool or Diagnostics"
A second screen came up with "Tool in the Spindle" at the first Button and down on
#7 Button was " ATC and machine diagnostics"
( I do not have ATC)
I hit the #7 button and a new screen appears
It has no information except for button #8 which says "Exit"
It also has a line that says "Choose appropriate software"

I assume this is the diagnostic page.
If I hit 'Enter" and then type "642" those numbers appear infront of the "Choose" statement above.
Then I hit "Enter" a second time and nothing occurs ?
I tried various combinations, all without any results ???
Rich

On my Max32 there are 8 30 pin simm sockets with 4 populated.

I don't have power to the machine yet so I can't "try" anything.

But I was wondering if more mem could be added and if I did would the software use it. ( I have plenty of 30 pin RAM )

I'd love to pump it up to 32MB and maybe configure a ramdisk for large NC files. :)

As is I want to clone my HDD before I get too far.


Enough musing and rambling from me. :wave:

As far as I remember, you can only go to 8Mb. You will need a keyboard plugged into the CPU to enter the BIOS.
As long as the config has been backed-up to floppy and the leadscrew map saved, you can make a new hard disk up in about 10 mins on a desktop PC. You will need the two software disks for your machine type.

Bloke or Andrew...
Batteries and SRAMS on order..
Still concerned with the screw map.
I need to confirm what it is before I install the fix..?
Is my approach wrong(previouspost)? or is it the board?

I also suspect I will loose any programs in memory whan I do this..Correct ?

Thanks
Rich

Ah, I've just remembered an important detail.
Does your machine have Randtronics servo amps? The software will only let you have the leadscrew map on V2 machines with Max400 amps and a V2 control relay panel.

Yes Bloke, I have Randtronics.

So that means no screw map, and I can change out the Dallas without a problem.

Is it worth adding a few extra SRAMS ?
I have no PC connection, only print out of programs, which drives me nuts as the printer triple spaces every line.... so i don't do that unless absolutely necessary

Thanks again my friend !
Rich

Extra SRAM won't be seen by the control, so isn't worth fitting. The leadscrew and backlash compensation are entered on the dual axis DIP switches so that saves that problem. The only thing you'll need to enter is the travel lengths for the axes and where you want it to calibrate (which corner).

Will the control ask me for length and Home position or do I need a special screeen/password?

Thanks Bloke you have been incredibly helpful to a retired old man who has a Hurco strictly for enjoyment.
Even though it was used, My wife gave it to me for a retirement present, 8 years ago to keep my mind active

Rich

Rich,
If you can print the program, You should also be able to connect it to a laptop and using Hyper Terminal download the .txt file for record keeping.
In HT, create a new file call it Hurco (of course), than You will get prompted for the connection type, choose com1/2/3 whatever you have, do not bother with the phone#, press enter and it will ask you for the "port settings" enter the same settings you have on your machine control/communication, BPS, bits, parity, stop bits, flow control, hit enter and You are ready. Go to the toolbar and choose "transfer" than "Capture text" , and as You hit the "print " button on the Hurco, the text file will be downloaded to Your pc. Copy, paste, save, print, You can do whatever You want with it. ( I`m typing by memory, hopefully is correct, I will check tomorrow):confused:
Also I've looked into the screw map page, and in both my machines you get access from the Diagnostic page. Power to the servo has to be ON, go to diagn. page, press "Enter" "642" and "enter" again and the page appear ( if You have it ) , i was not aware of the different software versions available with different drives, on mine I have Yaskawa AC servo. I`ve learned something too.:cheers:
Remember the most important rule " don`t fix it if it ain`t broke":nono:

For the travel lengths, you'll need to set X 24", Y 14" & Z 5".
Then set the calibrate directions (X left or right, Y forward or back).
When done, type "enter" 999 "enter" and the control will re-boot. When it re-starts, it will have the total travels and calibrate position stored.

Thanks Bloke. I went and installed new batteries in my board thanks to this thread. This is about ten years over due.

BTW...
The mystery AB transistors on the KM3p servo amp boards can be replaced with MJ10021 Darlingtons by ON semi. Make sure they all have the same manufacture date and or wafer lot so they match up.

For the travel lengths, you'll need to set X 24", Y 14" & Z 5".
Then set the calibrate directions (X left or right, Y forward or back).
When done, type "enter" 999 "enter" and the control will re-boot. When it re-starts, it will have the total travels and calibrate position stored.

On my Uncles KM3 I was able to rotate the ball screws by hand and find the hard limits, then adjust the tabs for the the prox/roller switches. This allows you to use the most of your machine. - DO NOT SET THE LIMITS TO THE HARD LIMIT! You must allow some space for the machine to stop.

Check both ends of travel. When done I had X24.7 Y13.77 Z5.16 - what you end up with will vary. One factor will be the Index position in the servo relative the ballscrew - How far will the machine have to back off the limit before it finds Index and calibrates "Home". This can be adjusted by moving the Servo pulley a few teeth relative the ballscrew. Don't know if Direct drive Axis can be adjusted (too much work anyway). Note that if you swap Home locations (Front vrs Rear, Left vrs Right) your adjustments go out the window.