Our Dynatorch gantry showed up today! Here are a few pics. I have not had much time to go over it in depth. It is still in the crate. All arrived safely. I will post some pics of the table build progress tomorrow, They are in raw format and need to be batched to low res jpgs. The gantry is proudly made in U.S.A. It appears very well made. I cannot imagine how they can build an item like this at that price.

:)

Tommy

WSS, Nice pics! They remind me of the day a crate just like that arrived at my place. My first thought was, its here! My 2nd was, and no freight damage! What a relief! I like the made in USA on the box, especially in this day and age.

I can see from the picture you have the new all steel gantry and y axis carriage with dual linear rails. Its amazing how much Dynatorch has improved their product since I bought mine in 2005. I was told by the Dynatorch crew when ordering my upgrade parts that this is the way they make all their gantrys now. They have not updated their website pics so your gantry picture is the first one I have actually seen. Thanks for posting, keep the pics coming.

At first when I learned that they had upgraded to all steel gantrys I wondered about the increased weight. Then I remembered these guys

http://victoryplasma.com/victorycnc/currentimages/

they use the same Dynatorch hardware / software to run their machine which has a much heavier gantry. I found them while looking for ideas on modifying my gantry. In their pictures you can see the Dynatorch Z lifter station, Dynascribe, laser locator and the Animatics smart motors, but they also added a drill station to the gantry! When I first saw them advertising on Ebay they used Torchmate controls but then switched to Dynatorch?

Now that your gantry has arrived; Let the fun begin! :D

magma-joe,
Ya, the freight damage is always in the back of your mind. I do have to say it was crated nicely. I did not have time to open it when it was dropped off, but I did not see any fork holes or broken corners.

If you want to see any specific part of the gantry, let me know and I will take some pics. I had noticed that others were using animatics' smart motor servos, but I really couldn't imagine the "compactness" of those servos! They must pack a punch. The Victory gantry is a monster and those little servos are no bigger than a coffee cup.

Here are some build pics of the table,I welded in forty 4X4 gussets on the table already! I will try to keep them updated as we go along. I have three more days to work on it. I should get pretty close.

Cheers!
Tommy

WSS, your table looks excellent. Nice work with alot of attention to detail. I like the I beam design, very strong. Those 2" thick sheets should be a breeze. I am curious to see your design for the x axis rails, especially on the slave side which drops below the surface of the slats.

Do you plan on incorporating a water table or some type of ventilation system? As for the Animatics servo motors size, they do look small however I think the gear boxes are key. They multiply the torque and increase the resolution. Once you get the gantry installed you will see that there is minimal force required to move the gantry.

I am not sure what Animatics motor and gear box combination came on your new gantry. I do know Dynatorch made some changes from the earlier machines. My servo motors turn at 6000 RPM and use 28 to 1 gear box reduction. I think the newer gantrys like yours use more powerful motors with less gear reduction and helical gear type gear boxes? During my info search I found this company that uses Dynatorch hardware / software but they incorporated some type of belt drive on their system?

http://www.fastcutcnc.com/

When you get your gantry out of the crate please take some pics of the whole thing. On the Dynatorch website in their pics it appears they might have upgraded their lifter station to a more compact design. Just curious what comes on the new gantrys now. Also what kind of Miller welder is that in your pics?

Thanks for posting. I am looking forward to seeing your progress. It helps get the wheels of inovation turning.

Joe, I will leave room for one or the other. I am thinking I will use a down draft suction set-up, mostly because of the oxy/fuel. Do you think a water table would work with oxy as well? The fastcut machine was a serious consideration for us, They offered us a demo machine that was or did end up at the los angeles westec show. It was just to expensive and light for us. I am not sure if they actually made it to the show.

The welder is a Dimension 652 w/ a D-74 DX feeder. We have a bunch of the 652's hooked to S-64's & S-74's. We have had good luck with Miller feeders and power sources. This is the only portable welder in our shop, it has NR-211 3/32 innershield on one side and 70S-6 1/16 hardwire on the other (usually, it has .035 now), it is pretty neat as you just pick-up the gun you want and pull the trigger, it switches the process and settings automatically. This is the first time we have run .035 with the dimensions, I was pleased with the results, I had it set at 24.5v and about 180a and it moved along pretty good. I should have changed the liner in the gun to match the wire because it had to much play and the wire would spiral out the tip slightly.

The build is moving along OK. I finished the slat rails today. They warped over 5"! I figured 2" and some press time, so 5" was not to far out there. It took about 1.5hrs on the press to get them back were they belonged. The last pic shows the 2"sq tube that I will use for the slave side rails. Basically I will mount the rails according to DTs drawings, using there 2" tube idea. It fits perfect as the slat rails are 3" and the I-beam is 5". I will try to get it all together by wed. and maybe paint next weekend.

Tommy

WSS, looks like you have some nice equipment to work with. I heard that the Miller Dimention welders are excellent. I have a Miller Mig and Tig machine that I really enjoy using.

As for the water table with oxy. I have no personal experience with oxy and a water table, how ever I have seen many pictures of tables with them. I do like my water table using plasma. It works excellent and keeps down the majority of smoke and dust. A properly equiped air system works very well also however it can get expensive with the fan motor, electrical wiring, duct work and filtering system if you use one. Space is also a concern.

One thing I have found very handy is the expanded metal screen I placed just under the surface of the water. It catches all the small parts and makes them easy to retreive when the fall. Something to think about if you use an air ventilation system.

I attached a pic of the 6 x 20 table with a air ventilation system on it.

I am leaning toward the air system. It would fit better in our situation. Unless....The benefit from the water causing less distortion would outweigh the air system. When we cut with oxy we have to layout the cut to work with the inevitable warping. The thicker the material, the less shifting. I noticed on a job we did last week with the HP-1650 that distortion was maybe half of what oxy does! Very pleased. Plus no pre-heat and about 5 ipm faster than oxy on 3/4". I will utilize the plasma as much as we can but after 3/4" we have to use oxy. Some parts we will cut will literally fill the table and come off pretty much the same dimension minus a bunch of rectangular slots. Those pieces move! We may have to clamp them, which is why I was concerned about the flimsy slats. So, if water can slow the warping, I may work that way.

Today went well. I am ready to slip the gantry onto the rails. I want to fit check it before I paint. Murphy's law! The 12ga skins that cover the I-beam are at the powdercoater and should be ready friday. The rail set-up was different than I expected. Most of it was ready to fit-up, but the lengths were different. Not a problem since I measured before hand. Both were longer than needed fortunately.

Everyone have a great week!
Tommy

WSS, looking good. You are moving along pretty fast. Makes me anxious to get back on the retro. Maybe one more day on my modification job and back to the Dynatorch gantry.

I was using the We-cim software today for some aluminum cutting. It sure makes it fast and easy. At the time I bought the We-cim I also purchased the Arbor Image software. It is very handy. I had to make a custom rear brake caliper bracket yesterday. I took the old bracket, traced it on a piece of paper, changed the mounting hole locations and ran it thru my desktop scanner and and then thru the Arbor Image software and instant DXF file!

Managed to get a few hours today fitting the gantry to the table. I made the few adjustments recommended by Greg and it works great. The gantry is smoother than I expected. Very low COF. I hope to paint it after Church on Sunday. I will let it dry for at least a week. This will give me time to build the dual torch holder and fit the interface console to the command center. So far so good, I have managed to stick with the plan! Here are some pics of the progress.

WSS, looks like you are almost there. I am curious to see the dual torch holder. The thought of oxy cutting has crossed my mind. I will be looking to learn from you. Thanks for posting the pics. I was curious if Dynatorch had made any changes in the attaching hardware (motor mts, guides, etc) when they upgraded to the all steel gantry. One thing I can see is that the motor mounting system is much more rigid on the steel Y axis carriage than the aluminum one I have.

Hardware wise it appears everything else is the same as the extruded aluminum gantry I currently have. In my upgrade I will have to fab some new motor mts to make the dual drop design work. Thanks for posting , keep the pics coming!

Looking good, lots of changes compared to mine, the red peice on the inside of the aluminum, is that a guard or brace? also i would have to say from looking at this photo the air piston and servo motor is now mounted on the opposite side of the cut out compared to mine... will have a look next week when i get home...

EDD

Edwardo,
The day after we purchased the DT someone called me and asked which side I wanted the machine to home to (I think it was Russell). We figured I needed a "left home" configuration. I noticed that the machine morvaman was working with is a "right home" set-up. I think that is the difference (?). The red sheet metal is a guard, it is slotted up on top for at least an inch adjustment. This section is were I have spent the most time with aligning. I ended up removing the fender washers and replacing them with a 5/8" shaft collar. The hole in the aluminum support is right on tolerance, so I thought the shaft collar would fit better and straighter. Free hand it moves like butter. I have not tried them with power yet! I am afraid to jump steps because I may never get back to the stuff I missed.

WSS, on your oxy setup, will you use a lifter station or a torch holder that you manually raise and lower when needed? Is the plate you are cutting for earth moving equipment?

I had a look at Morvamans table and it is the same configuration as mine, im not sure if they had asked me when i bought mine, if they did then i forget or didnt know what they meant at the time, but it is they way i need it to be.. regardless they are a great team with a superior product and service... i didnt have a clue about cnc except what i had read prior to purchasing, i could only afford to buy one once and i put all my faith in them and they havent let me down... i know i made the right choice and if in the future i ever get to the point of needing another larger table, i wouldnt even consider buying anything but a DT ... i enjoy following all you guys on your builds.

EDD

Joe,
I will post some pics of the torch holder next week. I will be using two 35mm magswitches. They have a shear rating of 150lbs and a pair of mounting holes (metric). The switch or lever activates the magnet, so repositioning will be easy. I was not going to call it a "break-away" but it will do that and I also noticed a plug at the end of the DT carriage that Greg said was for the new style collision detector and is simply a NO contact. It should be easy to fit up a micro switch or some contact to shut everything down "in-case of an accident". I have been using magswitches for about a year now for grounds on our tables. They work flawlessly, you can heat them way past their rating and they never lose hold (even at 600amps). When you turn the lever the magnetic dust drops off leaving no residual to get in the way of the next ground.

Most of the stuff we work with is for earthmovers. We do some stuff for rockcrushers and drilling machines. Some new applications are these horizontal boring machines and pipe jackers. It seems to be picking up pretty steady again!

Edwardo, I am at the same point you were at when you bought your DT. It's a good thing the guys at DT know what kind of questions to ask. I had a moment when it showed up where I was sure it was backward. When I described to them what I needed it went something like this: OK, If I am standing at the short side staring at the tall side, then I want the machine to go to my right. When I opened the packing slip, it said "Left home", I was doing short laps in my mind trying to work it out, is the torch in the way, does it go off the table? On and on. Then morvaman posted the machine he was working on. Pictures are worth a thousand words. It all made sense.

I did manage to paint the table today and the powdercoated parts are ready. I will reassemble the machine next weekend. I will try to get the gas console mounted and the torch mount done before that. Then to hook up all the tubes and wires!

And.........call Leon

Tommy,your table looks great,good job. i would like to see the parts you cut on your table. oh before i forget you see that piece of metal bolted to the dropside (third pic in your last pic thread). it's dangerous i got cut twice from it. i don't see the purpose of it so i took it off. heads up.

Tommy,your table looks great,good job. i would like to see the parts you cut on your table. oh before i forget you see that piece of metal bolted to the dropside (third pic in your last pic thread). it's dangerous i got cut twice from it. i don't see the purpose of it so i took it off. heads up.

morvaman,
I asked about those, I thought they were a ground for the gantry to rail connection. They are rail scrapers, used to clear debri. However DT says most guys don't use them, and you can't home the machine on one side if you use them. Thanks for the heads up! I will take them both off before I install the gantry again.

WSS

The project is moving slowly at the moment. A few things have been done. Paint was the big thing. The outer skins came back from the powdercoater and look real good. They have a little less orange than the gantry but you can't see it unless they are right next to each other. Also got the basic mounting of the gas console done. Hopefully this weekend will be free to get it all back together.

WSS

WSS, I like the new gas console. It looks well built. Thats the first picture of one I have seen. You posted 2 pics of what you referred to as the outer skins that you had powdercoated. Is that a Dynatorch decal on one? If so I want one! I think it would look good on my Gantry. ;)

WSS, I like the new gas console. It looks well built. Thats the first picture of one I have seen. You posted 2 pics of what you referred to as the outer skins that you had powdercoated. Is that a Dynatorch decal on one? If so I want one! I think it would look good on my Gantry. ;)

magma-joe, The console was built from surplus parts from ebay, except the two oxygen ASCO valves. The box was luck that it matched the gantry. Most of the Hoffman enclosures are gray. The sticker is from DT, I asked for it before the gantry shipped. I think their logo looks hi-tech and current. I was going to do the theme a 1960's machine green/teal, but the DT color scheme was catchy. You'll have to harass Greg, he'll kick with one. (Sorry Greg:stickpoke).

WSS

WSS, you had me fooled! The gas console blends right in with the Dynatorch hardware, and looks good to. I am anxious to see the completed oxy setup. I recently saw a large Koikie Plasma / Oxy machine at an auction. I took a couple of pics of the oxy torch setup. It appears it might be mounted to an air cylinder and is desgned to move to any angle for bevel cuts. Will you set your torch holder like this also?

Here's something to make you glad you bought a Dynatorch. Look at the price for just an upgrade on the lower end of the C & G / Burny machine series. And it does'nt even include a torch height control. http://www.cgsystems.com/Services/Upgrades/Aviator%20Upgrade%20Sheet.pdf

http://www.cgsystems.com/Services/Upgrades/Challenger%20Upgrade%20Sheet.pdf

magma-joe,
Those C&G machines are expensive, and that is just the "retro upgrade"? I (so far) have been satisfied with the DT, no regrets. I keep wondering if I should have went with an 8' set-up. The space is tight as it is so I will have to be content. I know i have said it before but it seems like The DT is a lot for the money. I could not build one for even half that (and I am cheap).

The gas console I will use is actually about a year old. We have used it quite a bit with our mag shape cutter and track cutter. The DT interface console has the right outputs to control it on the back. the gas console has three ASCO redhat valves, two are switched at the same time (preheat oxy and fuel) and the last is turned on after preheat is done (cut oxy). For beveling we will use a Victor BHA-2 adapter on one torch.

All of the parts including the two new torches and one new BHA-2 and 100' of grade R twin hose was less than 1K. I played vulture on ebay. It took awhile to assemble but found some unreal deals.

pics are from my phone cam, bad quality.

WSS

WSS, The 8' table would be nice until you have to move it, LOL. Since I built my 5 x 10 table I have realized that a 12 ' length would have been much better. Once I got the machine up and running, I discovered a whole array of things I could do with it and several of those things require a 12' length.

That angle adjustable torch tip is pretty cool. I did'nt realize they made them. I am curious, if a person were to buy all new parts to equip their machine with an oxy set up what is a (ball park) price? Are your gas pressure regulators located in the console? Do you need 2 or 3 solenoids? Thanks for the info and pics. By the way, your camera phone takes pretty good pics.

magma-joe,
I believe it would cost 2k to 2.5k. If you bought it all from your local welding supply. You need two oxy regs and one fuel reg too. I have quick connects and flashback protection on all the parts as well. All of that pushes the cost up to the sky! Where the regs are concerned, There is a seller on ebay who has both the fuel and oxy regs for $69 each. If you are running two torches, you need a little higher flow from the cut reg. like a SA-700 series from Victor. The solenoids are about $85 each and you do need three. Two have to be for "oxygen service" I bought the two oxy solenoids from caltrol, they had them in stock in Vegas, I had them next day. The best torch (IMHO) is the MT-310-A three hose from victor. The two torches I will use are MT-618-NV & MT-610-NV. The difference is that the NV's will only do LP gas. If I had to do acetylene with them I would have to change the mixer to a acetylene mixer (or borrow one from my spare 310-A). Strangley, the torches with the "A" at the end (acetylene) will do both acetylene and propane (some other gases as well). The "10" in the 310 is the barrel length, it is about the same as the HP plasma torches.

I hope that helps. I will post some pics of the inside of the gas console later tonight.

millman52 does a lot of oxy cutting. Check out his posts. He has some good pics and info. His set-up is pretty nice.

Well back to work on the table!

WSS

I should add why I am using the MT600 series torches. They are both new and cost me $60 each on ebay, retail on them is 500 and 600 bucks! The bevel heads, I got three of them on ebay for $200 and sold two of them back on ebay for what I paid for three. They were in the wrong category. All three were new. I do a certain keyword searches and save them, ebay emails me when anything new shows up.

Here is the link to the Victor regs on ebay. For anyone interested. You have to buy it when you see it or contact the seller and ask to have listed what you are looking for. These are the big regs and can handle a one torch easily (maybe two).

http://cgi.ebay.com/VICTOR-Acetylene-Pressure-Regulator-NEW_W0QQitemZ260462338017QQcmdZViewItemQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item3ca4c3dfe1&_trksid=p3911.c0.m14#ht_2129wt_1167

I am running hose and cable through the cable carriers. Not much room left after the torch hose.

WSS

WSS, thanks for the info. I did'nt realize the cost to expand to oxy was that high. I can see why you shop Ebay to piece your system together. The Dynascribe attachment I'm installing on my gantry upgrade will use the 2 available terminal outputs on the back of the Dynatorch control box.

If I were to go the oxy route also, I think I would have to add the port expander to have enough outputs to control all the soleniods. For me it would add a little more to the cost. Something to think about. How soon before you make your first cuts?

http://www.dynatorch.com/PortExpander.htm

magma-joe,
The port expander will be important when you need it for the drill head control (lol)! I am hoping to start cutting in about 2 weeks. I have to return to my usual duties this week. I have a bunch of wiring and harness making to do and get the command center set-up. I will use the P-3 plug in the back of the DT console to use as a E-stop mounted on the monitor door. So I will go slow and do a couple of things in the evening when I can.

Here are some pics of the weekend progress!

Edit: I added two more pics, the "command center" and one of the DT assembled. My wife will be happy to see the command center move to it's home!

WSS

WSS, looking good! Is that some type of dual quick release torch holder you fabricated? Your finished table looks great with the Dynatorch decal. Nice cabinet to. Where did you get it? That gas console looks like a tight fit.

WOW THAT TABLE IS THE BOMB LIKE TIC TIC! I have the same cabinet, I took out the draw and mounted the interface box (some fabrication required) and placed the keybord and mouse up top. here r some pics of my friends and my setup. I'm loving your table wss.

I have the same cabinet too and it is great! There is a place for everything and it really helps keep things clean and orderly. Found it at http://www.globalindustrial.com/gcs/prod/30114712/i/1/productInfo.web?a=30114712&c=239115BK
If you get one of these you will love it.

plain ol bill, thats the one! I remember discussing this with you awhile back, did you get your rebate? I took the family out to dinner with mine, it came pretty fast.

It is pretty durable and a fair price. I will probably get a fan for it and filter it somehow.

morvaman, thanks! I hope it doesn't timeout to soon! I am not a good sapper. I fashioned a bracket inside above the sliding shelf to mount the DT console and ran a switch from the P3 plug to a E-stop button I mounted in the monitor window frame.

magma-joe, yes the console is tight. Another inch all the way around would have helped, as you can see i had to unhook a bunch of stuff just to swap out the power connections. The torch holder uses "switchable" magnets to hold the torches. I can pull the gantry in both X and Y with the tip of the torch, so they may hold more than I want. At speed it may break a torch. I could paint it or do something to lessen the grip but I will try it first. I did find that the 16" torch may be to long (darn it!), I can feel some vibration in it, again i will have to try it to see, If it gives me any trouble I will put a MT310A in its spot.

I have found myself rushing to get it up and running, as I have a job cutting some holes in 3/4" plate for it on monday.

WSS

WSS yes I got my rebate too. Never had a debit card rebate but whatever spends! I can't say enough about this cabinet. It sure took a lot of the clutter out of my operation. I found a plastic space saving cabinet w/ (I think six) drawers in it that just fit in the bottom of the cabinet right next to the tower CPU. The drawers hold misc. paperwork (manuals, emails about plasma etc.) my consumables, tools, pencils. Really a great organizer (and Lord knows I need organization).

Well, Our machine should be running today but we ran into a bit of a snag. On Saturday Leon returned my call to do the initializing of the machine (This guy really does work seven days a week). After a few tests (grounding test and serial adapter configuring). We found the master servo motor was not working! No lights were present. This was the first time this had happened according to Leon (I am forging the way). Leon said to contact DT on Monday And I would have one on Tuesday. This is sort of true. In order for them to send me the motor I had to pay a "warranty deposit". I never asked what the amount was as I was not willing to pay any more (the 20 grand they have from me should be enough to cover it). After a return call from Leon I figured why they need a warranty deposit. It seems guys would hang onto their motor cores for quite awhile, they even limit the amount of warranty motors a guy can have (there have been others? I thought I was the first). And they do not pay for next day anymore, It seems that more than their pictures are out of date on their web site.

It is a good looking machine though! Hopefully it will all work out. I did have two jobs lined out for it. One I will do on our trusty magnetic shape cutter (I will have to "unharness" the plasma torch from the cable carriers and support harness I made). The second job will make the company we were using for shape cutting happy to get another order from us.

The motor was easy to remove, I had to get a set of metric allen wrenches and remove a plug on the side of the housing that couples the gearbox to the servo and loosen a shaft collar inside. Once it was apart I was amazed at the precision parts it was made of. I can see the mechanical part of it wearing well.

I lost a bit of steam on it today, but I am sure it will all come together. I expected some action when I called them today but they run by their policies, not mine and that is understandable. They have obviously grown quite a bit in the recent years and they have to implement policies like any other big company. I do think I will pass on the training as I would be really upset to pay for travel and accommodations to find myself in the same situation as I am in now. I have spent enough of my company's money, I will have to put the brakes on for awhile, whether the machine works or not.

It's Monday and I better get onto some income generating work!
Cheers
WSS

WSS, sorry to hear of your issue. Sounds like Dynatorch wants to be sure they have a motor to send back to their supplier so they get compensated for the bad one.

Will the new motor arrive today?

I just read the warrenty section on DT web site, they give the reason for the deposit on the replacement motor, i guess it makes sense as it could add up to alot of money for them, but that being said i wonder why they didnt catch onto the malfunctioning motor when they test run the unit before shipping?

EDD

Hey guys!

I will not get a motor today (darn it!). I really wish they would have caught the bad motor during the four hour test. I have stepped back from handling this situation, my wife will take over from here. It appears they have some arrangement that will work. I will post an update when I have a motor. More importantly, it feels like it is picking up again work wise. I actually don't have the time to fix the table! It feels good.

Cheers!
WSS

I just read the warrenty section on DT web site, they give the reason for the deposit on the replacement motor, i guess it makes sense as it could add up to alot of money for them, but that being said i wonder why they didnt catch onto the malfunctioning motor when they test run the unit before shipping?

EDD

Edwardo,
It just dawned on me that you read the warranty section on their website. I looked hard for it over the weekend. Could you pm me the link?

Thanks!
WSS

Good morning Tommy

Any news on your motor ?
This is the link for the warrenty, its on the front page at the bottom with the other links, have a good day and all the best..
EDD

http://dynatorch.com/Warranty.htm

Good news! A new motor was handed to me by the our UPS driver! And there was an email authorization from DT to do the repairs on my desk when I got in this afternoon. I am waiting for a few policy details from DT before I will proceed with the installation.

Edwardo, Thanks for the link. I had been there over the weekend. I was thinking it was the newer version. The warranty version that shipped with the gantry is very different than the one on the link you posted for me.

I doubt my company will let me purchase soapstone now without scrutiny. I feel like a heel. I missed quite a bit. But I have to say that Greg is working closely with us now. DT could have voided our entire warranty due to my missing the fine print. I had received verbal authorization to do the many alterations we did to meet our needs, But I did not get prior written authorization. Greg has covered us by sending us the written approval. They are not going to count this motor towards the two they would authorize per their current warranty policy. So it looks like it will work out nicely.

EDIT: I should add that I was told Greg paid for next day to us himself!

I did have a chance to put together a HP cut chart for mild steel and expose/develop it onto a aluminum label. I did it when I did the E-stop label, as it's just as easy to do many sheets as it is to do one with the set-up. i had hoped to have the HP chart on black but it wouldn't develop correctly so I ended with red which looks pretty good. I will get some of the letter size magnetic photo paper and stick it to so I can move it around on the command center.

Cheers!
WSS

WSS, glad to hear things are looking up. Will you be installing the motor tomorrow? How did you make those charts? I want one!

magma-joe,
I hope to get it up and running sometime tomorrow. The charts were made with a UV exposure kit I use for making metal marking stencils. It is a "extra" included with the metal marking kit. I used to make quite a few knives and would make custom stencils for each one. The company sent a sample aluminum plate to play with and I was hooked. It is pretty straight forward as you can do your art work and print it on a transparency sheet (Staples by the box) and put it over the aluminum sheet and expose it under the UV light and then rinse it in warm water and it exposes the detail. It also marks most metals really well with the chem-etch kit. it puts either a .006" deep mark or a dark black oxide mark, or both if you switch between ac and dc while your marking. You can get 50 marks from the stencil if you treat it good and clean between each mark. here is a link:

http://www.martronics-corporation.com/sign.htm

http://www.martronics-corporation.com/eom.htm

I know it seems like a "as seen on TV" kind of sales gimmick but it works. They also sell different kinds of adhesive covers for the signs. I like the polycarbonate covers as they add a nice frosty look to them and withstand gloved hands really well.

Another trick that is not as durable but more colorful is to mirror print your image on a transparency sheet and then run it though a Zyron sticker machine. They can be had at craft stores like micheals or joannes. The image is then trapped between the shiny transparency and the adhesive. The drawback is it is not very UV resistant. I am not sure about plasma but a welder will fade it in a month or so. If it is not exposed to light it will do well. And you can print in full color.

Do you have a 1650? I will post the chart as a jpg. It has been chopped and spliced to show the info that I will need, including the assembly. I still need help when re assembling the torch.

WSS,
I am sure you are ready to see the sparks fly! I am anxious to hear how it all works out.
Thanks for the info and link. I am very interested. Is the chem etch what you normally see on the blades of most knives these days?

I have the 1250 hypertherm so I need a different chart than the 1650. Since I do alot of thin material I also want to make a chart for finecut consummables.

I know you have already checked the ground for your table and Dynatorch has their own method for doing so in their manual but there is something I wanted to pass along to everyone that happened to me.

In the Dynatorch manual they state that you should consider drilling a hole in the floor near the machine and drive in a ground rod so as to get a good ground for the machine. I did just that when I installed my table however after conducting their ground test on the new 5' deep ground rod it failed terribly. My first thought was how could this be? Perhaps I must have made some kind of mistake in the test. I checked 2 more times, same result?

After consulting with my electrician he informed me that the moisture in the earth has alot to do with with how good of a ground you get. He recommended that I run some water down around the rod to help it. My building was built in 1982 so after 27 years the soil beneath must have been plenty dry. I was'nt to keen on this as it would have required drilling another hole and the water would have had to seep at least overnight.

I ended up buying a roll of 1/4" diameter copper grounding rod and running it to the existing ground rod for my buildings electrical box. It then passed the ground test with zero problems. It made me realize that a ground can change over time and just because you have a 5' ground rod driven in the soil does not mean you have a good ground and it should be checked periodicly. It is cheap insurance against pontential electronic damage.

Joe, can you explain how to check a ground rod?

Thank you

tof1, Go to the Dynatorch website and download their manual. In the last few pages it shows how to test the ground.

When are you going to post a pic of your table???

magma-joe,
I spent 8+ hours on grounding. I had to drill two holes that were 12" deep and still didn't pass through the concrete. In the end I ended up outside the building (three feet from the table, 1 foot from the intended ground site). I used a copper clad 8 footer and it went OK from there. I used #4 solid to pass through the wall and installed a junction box and tied everything inside the box. I used #6 stranded from the table and 3ph ground strap and #12 for the 110 to the console. I could not find a 100w bulb anywhere around the shop. I had to use a 60w bulb and scale it (Leon did the math for me). It called for .75v but Leon wanted to see .5v, we had .2683v w/a 60w bulb which factored to under .5v. I still think I will add another rod and tie them together. Our local Lowes was out of them last time I looked so I will try Home Depot.

A question regarding a potential problem: I used the cable carrier to carry the plasma torch cable as well and tried to loop it as gently as I could. The transition from X to Y carriers run really close to the master motor (within an inch), should I make a bracket or some way to get it away from the motor before i put power to either the motor or plasma? I noticed that none of the cables in the harness are shielded, I am hoping there is not a noise issue here.

Thanks!
WSS

tof1, ya, post some pics when you get a chance.

WSS, I have my plasma cable in a cable chain with everything else and it's fine. It also runs right next to the Z motor. Took off early today, I'll try to get a pic up tomorrow.

WSS, I have never had a problem with mine. I included a pic. When I install the new gantry I am going to reverse the direction the Igus chain comes from as it will allow a much easier transition fron the X to Y. If you open this link go down the page to technical info and open up the solid model of the Dynatorch dropside dual drive, select run on the menu and you can see the layout of the Igus chain from the other direction. You can also pan, tilt, and zoom in with the tools.

http://www.dynatorch.com/Map.htm

magma-joe,
Thanks for the pic! Mine is almost exact, yours actually has a gentler bend. I will pull mine out a little to go around the motor like yours. Mine sits right on top of the motor now.

tof1, That is good news, I was wondering how the noise would affect it. It sound s like it is going to work fine. I have heard that servos have a tougher time with noise than steppers. It seems that both the plasma and CNC technology has melded together well.

WSS

I sent you a pm this morning but im not sure if it went through? is your inbox full?

EDD

Edwardo, I didn't get it. I checked and the box is empty. I am not too good at the PM thing, I can never find what I sent or accidentally deleting messages and such. Try it again when you can.

I did a bunch of cutting today with the HP and it worked good. I am trying to get together some 80amp parts to see if I can get some cleaner holes. The holes have quite a taper but are sharp on both sides with little dross, a putty knife knocks it off easily. The holes were oversized and slotted slightly for 1/2" bolts in 1/2" ar500. It pierced fast and did the loop with a slight over run to clean up the lead-in. All was good except the taper, the taper was not as much on the outside cuts. Any Ideas?

Cheers,
WSS

WSS, are you cutting clockwise or counterclockwise? It does have an effect on cut quality.

WSS, are you cutting clockwise or counterclockwise? It does have an effect on cut quality.

magma-joe,
I cut CCW for the inside and CW on outside. strange but I did not reverse the direction of the motor, when the mag pin was tracing inside it was moving CCW, same motor direction and tracing the outside was CW. I like to "measure twice, cut once" so I made sure (obsessively) the tip was traveling what I thought was correct. I may have it completely backwards though. Is it CW for inside cuts?

I downloaded the manual for the 1250. I can now cut and splice a cut chart for the 1250 users here. Would one covering just mild steel (incl fine cut/unshielded as well) be enough or does alum and SS need to included?

Everyone have a wonderful weekend.
WSS

WSS, ccw is correct. Here is some food for thought on how to get the best plasma cuts. Holes less than 1 1/2 times material thickness are always more challenging.

http://www.centricut.com/TA_CuttingSmallHoles.htm

http://www.centricut.com/Training_Articles.htm

http://www.centricut.com/Articles/Centricut_Training_Articles.pdf


For my applications, including the aluminum in the 1250 chart would be great! Thanks!

magma-joe,

Those are great links! I have bookmarked the html sites and downloaded the pdf's. There is a lot to learn. I will spend some time just wandering around the centricut site. I need to sign up to get the DVD, it looks packed full of info.

Thanks again!
WSS

Magma-joe I'll repeat WSS for the links. They are great and Lord knows I need to learn as much as an old dog can. I thought I was the only knifemaker hanging out around here but it looks like WSS is one also.:wave:

Starting off easy with some clip art i modified, i have the same 1/8th sheet on my table from 3 months ago, so i want to burn it up before putting a new one on...

EDD

Thats some detail! The rope is impressive. It held it's shape nicely. I like the font, especially the round ends. That is tricky. Did you do that today? What kind of finish work did you do?

I have an update on our gantry (yeah!), Dt will ship me a new harness on Tues. They ran a program on my harness and motors called waltz warm-up which takes 50min to run through and ours ran through 13 times with no glitches. That is the way it goes! If they sent it back to me it would have crashed on start up. I did not send Murphy with the rest of the items, he stayed here in my shop and did some other damage around the shop, like a danaher encoder he trashed and a screw jack that ate a acme thread. Anyway, DT kindly suggested that we install a new harness. This way we have eliminated the problem entirely. So it looks like next week I should be able to test it.

WSS

Thats good news to hear Tommy...

I have been slowly getting back into the groove with mine, i cut thoughs 2 peices this morning then played around with gussets all afternoon, i made up a bunch of files so if i have a part sheet again i can quickly lay out a pattern and cut it out, they all work good with no lead in and 1 peirce for each file, i still havent cut a entire sheet up but it think it will work fine if i ever need it. On the new smaller files i made the grid 4.124 and 6.125 and the gussets come out bang on 4" and 6"... So i got that sheet thats been on my table for almost 3 months cut up and gone, tommorow im cutting aluminium.
It is amazing the detail you can get with the fine cut consumables, i havent finished thoughs 2 peices i cut this morning, im going to try and sell as much as possible just bare metal, eventually i want to build my own powder coating set up... i took some pics i'll try and post tommorow

EDD

WSS, Glad to hear about the harness. You should be up and running soon! Murphy can show up at the worst times (LOL)

A few clips from our Research and Development team running our DT through it's paces.............LOL

WSS

Nice video Tommy, enjoy your kids because they grow up way to fast....

Anyways i cut up another sheet and made a few more things for the web site, made a couple vids also but hey didnt turn out that well, between camera batteries and forgetting to turn on the compressor etc... for me cnc plasma isnt like riding a bike, takes me awhile to get back into it after about 3 months sitting idle, but its coming now... i decided to just make gussets out of scrap areas instead of burning a entire sheet up, it doesnt take long to accumulate a pile while using up little areas in between other larger parts, what i am doing is once the main peices are cut out, i bring up the dxf and insert the gussets where ever i can and then delete the peices already cut, then run the file through sheetcam again with just the gussets, so far its worked well....
Just threw my first sheet of alum on the table and now trying to decide what to cut, Joe you have cut alot of alum, what settings do you recommend for 1/8th using fine cut?

EDD

A few things i have been doing to occupy my time
EDD


YouTube - Cutting gussets

First new sheet on the table in almost 3 months .... lol

EDD


YouTube - dynatorch

WSS, I could'nt get your video to play?
When will the harness arrive?

Edwardo, Nice videos. What IPM and amperage are you cutting the art with?

Your question about 1/8" aluminum; use 40 amp fine cut @ 150ipm and 84 arc volts.

magma-joe,
I was wondering if everyone could view it. I need to get Edwardo to explain how he does the you-tube thing. I probably need to sign up w/you-tube and link them to the thread. The harness should have shipped today. I should see it friday. Probably install it over the weekend and give it a try on Monday!

Edwardo,
So you do all your drawings in Coreldraw? That is very intricate work. Were you using Corel before you started with CNC? Do you at any point import/export to a cad program? I like the way your machine moves. It is very direct and fluid. I hope mine moves half as smooth! I saw you flip out the tip-up, You seemed to have known were to look and when to snag it. Do you figure that in the drawing as well?

I can see there is way more to learn here. I am seriously looking forward to it.

WSS


PS: I have a thread started for the HP 1250 cut charts. I am hoping to compile some helpful tips like standoff height and such. Any input will be helpul. I will post them as jpg's and pdf's when we finalize a draft on that thread.

http://www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=89219

Edwardo,
I watched the first vid again. That plate did not warp at all (visually). You went right to the edge as well (how did you align it right on?). If that had been oxy on any thickness it would have shifted the plate out of bounds and the torch would have been cutting off the edge. It looked like the remnant held it's shape very well. Is that typical of the plasma cutting you do? I notice the roundness of the artwork as well, they show no signs of warping. I know with art, you can hide a lot in the end, but round is still round and the same for square. I was thinking about tack welding plate to the slats, maybe it won't be required. Which brings up another thing I gotta do, make a center support for off-setting the slats.

No hick-ups on start-up? Love it when it happens like that! I like to watch CNC machines work. It reminds me of when I saw Star Wars for the first time, I think it was in 1978.

WSS

WSS
i seriously doubt you need to tack the plate down, i wouldnt... if in time you see a need to stabilize it someway then i would worry about it then.
Joe im cutting 1/8 @ 79 arc volts, 120 ipm, 38 amps with fine cut.. dry with no water.
Last few days i have been cutting art from a disc, they come as a bitmap and i convert them to vector in corel, usually i have to disect the drawing as the rings arent as round as i want them, so i make new rings and replace the originals, and add any text i want.. i didnt have a clue about corel or sheetcam or anything cnc up until i bought my DT, i could email and do simple things in excel but that was it.
It took me a long time to figure things out, i spent weeks trying to figure out converting a bitmap to vector, in the end its a simple few clicks of the mouse, same with sheetcam, weeks trying to figure it out and in the end i was only using the demo version!!! i had'nt loaded the licence DT sent me..lol
Although slow and frustrating, i have to figure things out learn it my way as then it seems to sink in, corel is great, there are things i will never use and once thats sorted out and i have the basic tools i need then it gets easier, im still finding and trying different tools, mostly short cuts and such, it seems easy now but in the begining it was a real serenity tester....
Cutting up to the edge of the sheet... i do all my nesting in corel also, hot rolled sheets are 48.25x96.25 so i create a work area in corel 47.8x95.8, this leaves me a safe zone around the outter edge of the sheet, then i place all my drawings in this work area knowing it is smaller than the actual sheet. Once i have nested everything i delete the working area line i created and that just leaves my drawings that i want to cut, export it as a dxf then into sheetcam, if there is any problems with the drawing then sheetcam will pick it up right away and i can go back into the file and correct it. Use the DT post processor in sheetcam and it saves the file as .tap which the DT program can read and load up for cutting and its ready to go...
Tip ups can happen anywhere at anytime, especially these little odd ball shapes that can pivot in between slats, i have my welding glasses on and watch it like a hawk when cutting, cutting doest always go as planned but its nice when it does, i have crashed my torch and run off the steel, it happens and is part of the learning curve for me...
For cutting the gussets out of the left over areas, once the main peices are cut and removed from the table, i bring up the original dxf file i used showing the art work, i then lay out the gussets in between the peices already cut, once i have filled in all i can i then delete the art work drawing and am left with only the gusset drawings, then export it the same way and through sheetcam again, i could cut everything in one shot, art and gussets, but sometimes i cut right to the edge of other peices and i wouldnt want to wreck a 2x2 peice of art over a 6" gusset, its just safer this way...
In DT and sheetcam you set up your table parameters, my working area is set at 50" x 100" this gives me 2" play on the width and 4" on the length, then in sheetcam i set the material size at 48x96, then my sheet size in corel just a hair under that, it just gives me a little room to move the drawing around when cutting a full sheet in one shot, its frustrating to lay everything out then have the DT program say some lines are outside the cutting area, the way im doing it, it eliminates that... but this is just my way of doing it and it works for me.
As for posting vids, once they are on youtube look in the upper right hand corner you will see a window with URL and Embed below it, left click the URL then right click, copy then paste to your post in cnczone, it wont show as a vid until you preview or post it, but it works...

EDD

Edwardo,
I agree after looking at the pic of the gussets sitting un-warped in the web/rem, that hold down tacks or clamps won't be necessary with plasma, I am not sure yet with oxy. It may be that the water table will be enough (on my to do list).

That is some focus and determination to jump right in as you did. Your workflow has a good flow to it, that is what is important. The ability to shuffle and back step or make corrections is paramount to the success of the finished part. It can be as simple as using up your remnants as you did with the gussets (we-cim does something similar). The nesting that you do with Corel is pretty handy. I got lost trying to follow you when you move from Corel to Sheetcam.....Can Corel export a dxf? The raster to vector thing is hard to get ones head around. Once you get it though, the flow moves better. A few years back I was getting pressure from other photographers to shoot in RAW format instead of jpg or tiff (with a camera). Once I could see the advantages it made sense and moved way faster than processing jpgs. Now I can shuffle thousands of files in a couple of hours instead of days. Workflow! The downside is when you take off three months to go and do other things like earn a living. Now we have to retrain you! LOL. Funny story about the demo sheetcam! I got a new mouse for my computer that had way to many buttons that i did not know existed, my old one had one button (basic click). It took me a month to figure out why weird menus were popping up and apps just up and quitting! I still don't like what apple calls "mighty mouse". I switched back to my old one button mouse and have two other old ones hoarded for stormy weather.

You mentioned you cut some stuff for your website, what's the address? I checked out your thread for cutting vids, very cool idea. I hope to add a few soon. I just got a good size job in today for 1/2" plate that is due late this month, I should have enough time to practice and get some real parts done by then! WML......

I pounded another ground rod near our DT for good measure yesterday. My father in-law (retired electrician) also recommended that I install a sub panel (110v/220v single phase) next to the table with it's own ground as well for extra measure. So this weekend I will head to Home Depot and rent yet another trencher to make way for the 4 #10awg wires I need to get out the the building. Lots of fun.

WSS

WSS, whats up with the harness install?

Funny you should ask! I just got off the the phone with Leon and we toasted another drive board on the slave this time. He is perplexed and so am I. They ran the guts out of it at there facility with no glitches, it gets here and fries on start up. I don't think it is a usual occurrence for DT or someone would have said something on the Zone by now. They are doing all they can, so I am not going to bash em'. It is just one of those things. They are going to next day me a drive board and a add-a-motor harness, It may be that I received my old one back on accident, we couldn't really tell if it was the original or not. Leon is sharp and knows what he's talking about, so I am going to trust his judgment here. I don't have a clue what's up. I can work on 110vac, 90vdc and mechanical issues but when the cable has more than two wires I am useless.

WSS

Hi Tommy

Any progress on your table? i sent you a email to the address you pm'd me also.

EDD

Good news! I should be cutting this week. I should add at this point what has taken place.

DT has sent me an entirely new gantry. DT felt the trouble I was having was worth the effort to get me a new gantry. I was happy to do this as the problem went beyond the norm and they handled it wonderfully. DT emailed me a you-tube link of our gantry cutting before they sent it and sent the part along with the gantry. YouTube - Wear surface test cut

I have forgot to take some pics of the part but did measure the part and I am impressed. It is a 8"/4" donut and the inside is within .050" and the thickness is within a few thousandths. I'll post some actual pics later.

I spent Friday and saturday running wires and cabling details along with a few brackets and small details on the gantry. I also installed two fans on my command center. I retro-fitted them to take a merv-9 filter to keep the dust out via positive pressure. I used a die grinder with a cut-off wheel to remove the grill for more flow. It works good.

I took some video of it jogging around the table but could not figure out how to set-up a you-tube account. I'll work on that when I have more time.

A few more photos. Notice the harness laying on the ground in the previous post, In person it looked worse, untamable! But it all went as it should in the end. I used the spiral loom to cover the part of the harness that will be subject to abrasion (dragging, rolling around and hot stuff). It went on much easier this time. It took about 20 minutes compared to 4 hours the last time. I pre-wrapped the loom so it would "un-wind" as I rolled onto the cabling. There are four extra wires running through it than on a usual DT harness. I added a 2c cable for the toggle laser locater, a 4c cable to control the oxy/fuel and two other cables to the plasma gen (it was on the other side of the table anyway). The loom will keep them all in place and safe.


Anyone, feel free to ask any questions or if you want to to see a specific piece or picture, just ask. I have enjoyed the many threads here and am more than happy to return the favor.

WSS

WSS, Thats some first class work setting up your machine. Glad to hear your Dynatorch is nearly ready to start paying for itself. It is costly in time as well as money when you start out.

Did you get the updated slave side V roller design on the replacement gantry? Did you also get the joy stick control? It works great for shearing and controling the machine for precise positioning on a part.

I found it heplful when I first got my machine to cut one part of a certain thickness over and over while tweaking the adjustments and watching the cut quality each time. If you use the joy stick you can watch the torch up close each time you make an adjustment. The joy stick also makes it easy to stop the machine if something goes wrong.

Thanks for the pics you sent me in the PM. Looking forward to seeing your first parts!

Two good things:

1) Our DT cut today, and worked great!

2) I set-up a youtube thingy finally.

Here is one of the vids before Leon got me homed and cutting. The noise from the THC went away with some adjustments in the tuning page. I'll post some more videos as I can. It cut clean. No wobble or chatter and I even tested the oxy side. Now to learn the software!

YouTube - Running DT gantry around table


WSS

magma-joe,

I did not get the v-rail slave addition. I kept the original rails during the switch. Less shipping and re-do time. I did get the joystick controller. I have not used it yet but did set it up in the machine set-up page. I had to surface the back of the torch mounts I made with a 50 grit belt because the THC touched harder than the smooth surface would hold. I tested it this morning and it worked great. I won't have a chance to play with the machine until Tuesday. Looks like a bunch of fun!!!!


WSS

WSS, in the machine settings on the torch tab you can adjust the down force applied when the torch touches off the material. The less force the better especially when you are touching off thin material that wants to flex and spring back giving you a false material height for the initial pierce height.

Have fun!

WSS, in the machine settings on the torch tab you can adjust the down force applied when the torch touches off the material. The less force the better especially when you are touching off thin material that wants to flex and spring back giving you a false material height for the initial pierce height.

Have fun!

magma-joe,
I did lower the down force pressure and it pretty much fixed it. I still have "slat wobble". I have a 1350lb sheet of 1" on the table now and can wiggle it with one hand way to easy, not inches if course but maybe a 1/4". I think I will have to put a bow in them. Anyway they wont be there long. I will be starting on the water table shortly. It will be a must! I cut with the oxy set-up today and was pleased. I ended up doing a nest in we-cim of one part, just one. I could not figure out how to line it up on the table. I got messages like "beyond extents of table" and another like it inside the DT software.

I did manage to video it while it was cutting. This puppy cuts nice. I have better cut quality right now with the oxy. I am sure that will change once I get a feel for the plasma.

WSS

YouTube- DT cutting

WSS, normally when I encounter the "beyond table extents message" the X Y zero location is to close to the edge of the table to cut the dimentions of the part file you have loaded.

Say you have a 3' by 3' part you want to cut and your X Y zero starting point is 2' from the travel limits of the gantry you will get this messege.

Back up the gantry toward the center of the table move the Y carriage to a point where there is enough travel to cut the dimentions of your part and then press zero X Y. When you finish cutting your torch will automatically return to the X Y zero location.

WSS, normally when I encounter the "beyond table extents message" the X Y zero location is to close to the edge of the table to cut the dimentions of the part file you have loaded.

Say you have a 3' by 3' part you want to cut and your X Y zero starting point is 2' from the travel limits of the gantry you will get this messege.

Back up the gantry toward the center of the table move the Y carriage to a point where there is enough travel to cut the dimentions of your part and then press zero X Y. When you finish cutting your torch will automatically return to the X Y zero location.

That was the fixer! Bingo, all fit. I did a little study in the manual about the different buttons along the bottom of the screen (when all else fails, read the manual?). Thanks!

The gantry did some nice cutting today. Here are a few pics.

WSS

WSS, Nice oxy cuts! Is the part with the hole in it plasma cut? It looks like you are well on your way!

Well, I have completed our first parts off the DT machine. I am pleased with the results for many reasons. First, If I had to buy them, I would have to purchase 100pcs. Three years ago that was fine. But now our customers are ordering fewer parts more often. Now I can cut five pieces or whatever is required. Second, I like the quality. I can control what goes to the next stage, be it drilling or applying Tungsten Carbide. Our last supplier would let the parts fall through the slats and keep cutting, which left many parts drenched in slag (dross is too pretty a word). I have a lot to learn in the we-cim software.

The motion of the machine surprised me. I had no idea what to expect as I have only cut with cantilever and mag tracer machines. In reading a presentation that Jim Colt sent me before cutting with the DT, I could not grasp what he meant by acceleration and terms like that. I see it now. I was used to machines "rolling" around corners. The DT responds instantly to direction changes. You don't need to loop the corners to keep them square. This will be a big feature when cutting small holes.

Anyway, here are some photos of the parts and cuts.

Cheers!
WSS

WSS, Those are some clean looking cuts. How thick is the material? Just curious, now that you have made a few cuts what kind of money do you think your old supplier was making when he was doing 100 pieces at a time?

WSS, Those are some clean looking cuts. How thick is the material? Just curious, now that you have made a few cuts what kind of money do you think your old supplier was making when he was doing 100 pieces at a time?

magma-joe,
The cuts I have made so far have been on 1" plate, I cut some 3/16" plate during set-up w/Leon just to make sure the plaz fired. I took a look at the last bill from our supplier and it was not as much as I thought it would be. Assuming they paid the same as I paid for the steel, then they only charged me $285usd to cut the plate. The parts could be cut from a 4X8 sheet.

I am hooked now. I am always on the look out for ways to use the DT. Today I made a new jig for our press to hold some thin edges we are working on that warp like a rainbow. I figure the jig will cut my press time in half over the old set-up. It took 2.25 hours from thought to finished part. I sketched it on paper with dimensions then drew it in autocad to we-cim to DT. The slot in the center was drawn at .875" and cut at .860". Very close by my standard. It could have been as small as .800" and worked fine.

WSS

I did a two hour session with Gary @ whittlock eng. online Friday. It was well worth the effort. I learned an immense amount about the software. Notably how to make the type of lead I need in any situation. Basically put it anywhere and any type. I have a few nests built but have not had the time to run the file. I am new to windows let alone cnc software. It was pretty neat the way it worked, Gary walked me through a website that loaded a program that let him control my screen along with me. It was like being on-site. I will certainly do more of it later after I apply what I learned so far.

I also picked up a air dryer off of craigslist that needs to be installed. I do believe it is never actually finished, just fine tuned and reaching for that state of perfect-ness.

WSS

WSS,

Gary has done the same for me when I had a problem. It makes for very personalized service. The more you learn about the We-cim software the more powerful it becomes. A question was asked about offsets for kerfs in We-cim. Easy to adjust in the configuration manager.

I will be interested to see how your drier works out. Please post some pics of your water table build. I am considering making some modifications to my table to adjust the water levels.