I see all these builds of tables and some pics of work that was done on homemade cutters. Lets post up pics of the best quality work that can be done on these machines. Please post metal thickness and brand and model of cutter you use. I want to build one but not sure if the cut quality will meet my expectations. Close ups please. Thanks

I can post pics of cuts done on a commercially available low cost (hobby class) machine from PlasmaCam with a Hypertherm Powermax45 torch if you are interested in comparison between it and home built machines...let me know.

Jim

Jim I don't want any pissing matchs ............... I am most interested in seeing cut quality in like 3/8 or 1/2 steel. I am spoiled because I have been forced to buy my cuttings from a local place here that uses a max200. I want to build my own table and I would be very dissapointed if my cuts had gobs of dross on the back side. I just unloaded 2 cuttings tonight that were cut from 1/2"A-36 with a total circumferential length of over 200" and the dammed things are absolutely perfect not one iotta of dross, cuts are absolutely flat not washed out, the cut lines that are seen are absolutely square to the work piece no washing. the problem is that I buy enough of these that I feel that I can afford to stick some cash into my own set up. But I just feel like it will be hard to compete with a MAX200 as far as cut quality., and if I can't reproduce the results that I am used to I would be dissapointed. Please post up pics but no pissing match's. I am just trying to learn what I can here.

Tig,

The Max200 is made by the same company that makes the Powermax45....the difference between the two systems is that the Max200 produces 200 Amps, has a liquid cooled torch, and has the ability to use oxygen for cutting steel......the 45 is a 45 Amp air plasma....with maximum production capability to 1/2".

Both will provide square, virtually dross free cuts on 3/8" and 1/2" material....the Max200 will cut 1/2" at 80 inches per minute, while the 45 will do it at about 20 inches per minute. The oxygen cutting process on the 200 will provide a softer edge that is 100% weldable, while the edge cut with the 45 will look almost identical but will have some hardening due to the nitrogen content of the air process.....which also can cause porosity if the edge is directly welded without grinding first.

The Max200 sells for $15,000, the Powermax45 sells for $1,500.

The plasma alone does not make a good cut.....you can put the best performing plasma in the world (which also happens to be Hypertherm's HPR130, HPR260 and HPR400 high definition class plasma's) on a cutting machine with sloppy drives, sluggish acceleration and a poorly performing torch height control system and the cut edge quality will be very bad.....drossy, out of tolerance, and with varying edge angularity.

When I visit shops that complain about their cnc plasma cut quality (assuming they have the latest in plasma technology!) I find over 90% of the time issues like these. (in this order) 1. Torch height control functionality, 2. Part programming techniques...especially hole lead ins and lead outs, 3. Motion control issues with their cutting machine....usually rough motion, sluggish acceleration and deacceleration, mechanical slop/backlash. Once these issues are straightened out the plasma miraculously cuts very well!

It sounds like your supplier is doing things right with the Max200...you should look carefully at what he is using for a cutting machine, torch height control system, and cutting software. The Max 200 is still in Hypertherm's product line, but it was designed over 20 years ago......compared to newer equivalent systems from Hypertherm its drawbacks are consumable life....and the ability to get square, clean cuts on materials thinner than about 3/8".

I wanted to post some pictures showing the capability of the entry level plasma as used correctly on a machine with good motion and good height control. The PlasmaCam machine is low cost....and is designed specifically for entry level plasma systems.....it could not even carry the Max200 torch!

Jim Colt

Jim is right. You will not be able to compete will a hy-def or oxygen plasma on 1/2". With air plasma you will get some angularity of the cut edge. But the new Hypertherm air plasma you can get great cut for the price. Here are a few cuts done on my homebuilt table using a Powermax45.

3/8" AR500 cut at 30IPM
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0203.jpg

1/4" HR cut at 50IPM 3/8" hole cut at 25IPM with only .012 taper.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0201.jpg

Completed part.
http://i122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/bigtoy302/IMG_0224.jpg

Bigtoy,

Good looking cuts.....I use my Powermax45 on a PlasmaCam....I didn't have the time to build a homebuilt machine.....cuts look similar to yours. Heres a few I have done.

Jim

Jim I totally understand what you are saying about the enertial and drive aspects of of a table and how design flaws are very easilly detrimental to cut Quality. I am after 1 thing and 1 thing only.. Cut quality. I am willing to spend what it takes to get bad ass cut quality. There have been many pics posted on here of cuttings that were made on home built tables and quite frankly alot of these cuttings suck in appearence. Like I posted earlier if I went to all this work and had cut qualities like alot of these that have been posted here it for me would be a giant waste. So what you are saying is that the latest from hypertherm air combined with a excellent designed table and control will produce cuts that would most likely meet my expectations. That is what I wanted to hear. I have a fully equipped machine shop and am still gathering info before I spend a dime. If I were to buy a THC whose would you say would be the best that money can buy right now? Thanks alot jim for the help and info!

The THC from Candcnc is the best for the money for a DIY table. How straight of sides are you trying to achieve? How thick are you going to be cutting? How much do you want to spend? I think the quality that you want is only going to be in a Hypertherm HPR system and those start out at like $35k with no THC. I think the Powermax45 is going to be your best bet for air plasma. Don't underestimate it's 45 amps of power. This thing cuts way better then my Powermax 1000 ever did.

302 those cuttings look excellent! very nice work. I have a few questions. how does the 45 do piercing 1/2"? If you did alot of work in 1/2" what would you buy for a cutter if you could start over? In your opinion if you bought a cutter that would do excellet work in 1/2" what would you guess would be the lightest material that you would want to cut? last question if you bought a THC tomorrow for a new table what would you buy?

Again 302 dammed nice work and im interested in learning from your experience.

Thanks!

Sheet 302 we are posting at the same time.

No No the cut quality that you have posted would meet my expectations. very nice! Bottom line is if I gotta buy a HD cutter...... it won't happen. Is ther something about the 45 that produces better quality cuts than the next step up the line?

here are the parameters us on my last cuttings.
Table- http://www.alltracorp.com/
Amps- 130
true utilization-(what ever the hell that is) 18.48%

program used is-PRONEST

Sheet 302 we are posting at the same time.

No No the cut quality that you have posted would meet my expectations. very nice! Bottom line is if I gotta buy a HD cutter...... it won't happen. Is ther something about the 45 that produces better quality cuts than the next step up the line?

Yes, There is something called conical flow for the 45 that makes it better then the older units. I sure JimColt will chime in. It is not rated to pierce 1/2" but it will do it. I have not cut 1/2" yet but JimColt has.

Does it have to be CNC Plasma? Can we post pics of parts cut with a 60's vintage shape cutter and torch? I have a few parts I have to cut out of AR500 this weekend. Tricky little 1/2" slotted holes in 1/2".

I won't have my CNC table up until mid August. I will try putting the T100M torch on the old Heath to test it.

Bigtoy302, It's hard to tell the scale, what is the diameter of the target on the AR500 piece?

WSS

Tig,

In one post you say you are after "1 thing.....and 1 thing only - cut quality".

The best cut quality comes from a high definition class plasma. The Hypertherm HPR130 will cut 3/4" steel all day....and will also cut 24 gauge steel with precision. Cut quality, consumable life and cut speed are second to none....and this system can be automated so that all setup parametrs are handled through the part program. It will cut the thickest materials at 100% duty cycle.

At the other end of the spectrum is the Powermax45....it is the lates entry level air plasma system. It is advertised to cut 3/8" on a production basis....although at about a 50% duty cycle rating.....I have pierce and cut a lot of 1/2" with mine...with excellent results.....but if I was doing it all day long the speed (18" per minute) would be quite slow.

The HPR130 is $31,000. The Powermax45 is about $1500. At some point...you need to determine how much cut quality is necessary....alond with productivity and duty cycle requirements you need to do the job.

A two or three shift busy shop will need the HPR capabilities. A small fab shop doing low quantities of parts is often happy with an air plasma.

Jim

Here are some samples cut with oxygen, high definition class plasma.

-the first one is 3/8" steel....a 5/16" hole was cut with an HPR130 at 80 Amps, 72 inches per minute. The hole was perfectly round, about .004" taper, and had virtually no hardness....was tapped with a crafstmen brand 3/8-16 tap!

-second is a piece of .135" steel cut with an HPR130 at 30 Amps at about 60 ipm. The holes are .200" diameter....no dross, virtually no edge angularity.

-third is 1" steel....holes were cut at 200 Amps with an HPR260. Hole diamters range from 1/2" to 1-1/2".....no cleanup required.

The high definition class oxygen plasma will produce exceptional cut quality at very high speed....with minimal HAZ (heat affected zone). In comparison...an air plasma will produce more edge taper, and the nitrogen content in air will nitride the edge of steel...creating a case hardening effect. You could not tap an air cut hole.

Jim Colt

Jim, after reading several of your comments about the powermax 45 I have a question. What makes the power source any different from the powermax 45 and the 1250 or 1000 powermax series other than the amps and the duty cycle? Does the 45 have a different torch than the other machines? Why is there is such a noticeable difference in the cut quality of the 45? If it is the torch design will Hypertherm offer this updated torch design to users of the 1250 / 1000 series?

Does it have to be CNC Plasma? Can we post pics of parts cut with a 60's vintage shape cutter and torch? I have a few parts I have to cut out of AR500 this weekend. Tricky little 1/2" slotted holes in 1/2".

I won't have my CNC table up until mid August. I will try putting the T100M torch on the old Heath to test it.

Bigtoy302, It's hard to tell the scale, what is the diameter of the target on the AR500 piece?

WSS

8"

Jim, after reading several of your comments about the powermax 45 I have a question. What makes the power source any different from the powermax 45 and the 1250 or 1000 powermax series other than the amps and the duty cycle? Does the 45 have a different torch than the other machines? Why is there is such a noticeable difference in the cut quality of the 45? If it is the torch design will Hypertherm offer this updated torch design to users of the 1250 / 1000 series?

I would like to know this as well. I just purchased a Powermax 1000 for my table build and I'm hoping I didn't pick the wrong plasma... Does anyone have any side by side cuts for comparison of the Powermax 45 and 1000?

Its a totally new torch design. The cut quality is similar to the quality with the 1000 or the 1250 when using FineCut consumables.....but it does this throughout its thickness range, and with much longer consumable life. The new torch has new technology called conical flow. There are no current plans that I am aware of to offer this torch technology on the other systems in the product line.

The 1000 has more power for 3/8 and thicker materials....but I personally think the cut quality is better with the 45 up through 1/2".....Hypertherm claims the 45 can only pierce 3/8"....but I have no issues piercing 1/2".

Jim

Seems kind of weird that hypertherm would not make the new technology available for the more expensive machines like the 1250 or 1650. I just bought a 1250 and it makes me a little angry that a 1600.00 machine will cut better and have better consumable life.
Dave

dnelso,

Well....the new technology that is available on the Powermax45 is limited (currently) to 45 amps......it is unlikely that users that bought a 1250 (80 Amps) or a 1650 (100 Amps) would be interested in putting a new tech torch on their machines that would reduce their cutting power from 100 or 80 amps down to 45.....just wouldn't make sense! The Powermax45 replaced the 40 Amp Powermax600....and improved its performance.....but if you need more power....the Powermax1000 (60 Amps) and the Powermax1250 (80 Amps) and the Powermax1650 (100 Amps) are there for thicker than 3/8" materials.

In regards to the Powermax 1000....which has 60 Amp output capability......I have both the 1000 and the 45 in my home shop. I would use the 1000 for everything over 3/8" thickness, and the 45 for anything thinner.

The 45 is no competitor with the 1000, the 1250 or the 1650 when it comes down to thickness or speed on cutting thicker materials. It does produce great cut quality and consumable life within its thickness capability.

Jim

Jim,
I would glady pay for another torch and have the best of both. It would be a lot cheaper than buying 2 machines.
Dave

We have offered torch upgrades in the past...when new technolgy was developed. It is possible that sometime down the road a torch upgrade will be offerd for the other systems....but there is nothing that I am aware of in the works right now.

Jim

I also would be happy to upgrade my torch if there was a significant inprovment.

The high definition class oxygen plasma will produce exceptional cut quality at very high speed....with minimal HAZ (heat affected zone). In comparison...an air plasma will produce more edge taper, and the nitrogen content in air will nitride the edge of steel...creating a case hardening effect. You could not tap an air cut hole.

Jim Colt

Jim,
I know we have discussed this before, but how thick is the nitriding? Can it be ground easily?

How about some more pictures? Let's see some good air plasma cuts!

Everyone have a great weekend!

WSS

The nitriding of the cut edge with air plasma is usually less than .006" thick....a couple of passes with a grinder will usually eliminate this hardened surface.

Attached are some pics of air plasma cuts done with a Powermax45 and a Powermax1000 on my PlasmaCam DHC2 cutting machine in my home shop.

first is 1/4" steel cut with the 45, second is 1/2" steel cut with the 1000, third is 3/16" stainless cut with the 45, and fourth is 1/4" steel cut with the 45. These parts are all as cut.....no dross needed removal!

Jim

Jim,
All of those cuts far surpass what we are doing now. I can't wait to get our setup running!

Im starting to thing I should have went with a smaller machine like a plasma cam or torchmate 4x4 table and the powermax 45 lol. I have a dynatorch 4x8 with a hypertherm 1250 and pretty much never cut anything over 1/4" mostly 1/4" and 3/16" some 1/8" and 16 ga lol. I've only cut 1/2" twice on some small parts that all came out pretty bad lookin but i didnt really mess with the settings much.

Your cuts with the Dynatorch and the Hypertherm Powermax1250 should look the same as the ones in my picture....you have good equipment....if you are getting ugly cuts then it is likely the choice of consumables (Fine Cut or 40, 60, 80 Amps shielded sets)you are using or the settings (speed, torch height, current).

I'd be happy to help you fine your cut quality.

Jim Colt Hypertherm

I'll have to take some pictures of my cuts later today or tomorrow and post em up. I think I have 1/4" and 3/16" dialed in pretty good I was basing my numbers off this page http://cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=26227&page=4 in post #41 and have tweaked them from there.

I usually use 60 amp tips but I have to set it up for 40 amp tips in the wecim program so that I can fit bolts into the holes, or I have to over size the drawing. These are with my drawings so everytime i get something custom from a customer I have to play with it to get it to cut right.

Most of the bolt holes that I use are 3/8" 1/2" and 9/19" for suspension tabs, and brackets for air ride on custom trucks. I wish I could make a drawing for 9/16 and set the tip to 60 amp and have it cut how it needs to be. I have also used some 40 amp tips, 80 amp tips here and there and some fine cut tips on 16 ga.

I also thought that the curved lead in's were allways better for some reason but after I received the hole quality email from you I have started messing with settings and noticed the straight lead in does seem to make more of a round hole.

The other issue I am having is that some cuts are straight of have a slight kerf to them and other sides of the part have a crazy slant to them so I'm wonddering if the torch is not 100 % perpendicular or something. It just gets kind of annoying so times especially on joints that need welded. I've had the machine for a couple years now and only run it here and there. But it seems like every other time I run it I have issues with it wanting to crash into the plate and destroy parts or holes under cut and I have to hone them out which is a PITA due to the hardening. I can't really afford to just throw out parts because the holes were undersized so I have to take the time and clean them up.

I'm sure I could use a better air supply because I have a pretty small compressor right now and have to pause the run in between ever 2 parts or so and let the air build back up. I would just like to get it cutting a little smoother so i can really start persuing contracted work and more art work.

on a side note here are a couple videos of my machine cutting YouTube - Illusive Design & Fabrications CNC plasma table cutting air suspension brackets part 1 and YouTube - Illusive Design & Fabrications CNC plasma table cutting air suspension brackets part 2

on 22ga does anyone have a pic showing 22ga glav? aloso what speeds are achivable with the new plasma units in 22ga?

I just cut some stencils for lettering out of 24 gauge galvanized a week ago. No pics.....but I cut at 320 inches per minute at 30 Amps with a Hypertherm Powermax45 plasma....on a PlasmaCam machine. Totally burr free cuts....I can probably get some pics if you'd like to see them.

Jim Colt

yeah i would like to see. is 320 inches the max you would go? could you cut faster with bigger or better plasma unit?

Most duct cutting machines cut at 400 to 460 ipm on 24/26 gauge.....the limitation is with the capabilities of most machines......if you have your plasma set up to cut at higher speeds.....say 60 amps or so....you could probably cut at 1000 ipm or more.....but when the machine slows down for cornering...the cut starts to get ugly (too much power for the speed).....so it is best to optimize the plasma process for a speed that the machine can maintain.

I could have cut faster with the Powermax45....if you see my post it was set at 30 Amps....it can go to 45. For intricate cutting of lettering I opted for better quality over sheer speed.

I'll go take some pics of the galv that I cut.

Jim

Here are two pics of galvanized (24ga) cut with a Hypertherm Powermax45/PlasmaCam cutting machine.....320 inches per minute at 30 Amps....1st is the back side of the stencil....then the back and front of the drop pieces. These are as cut.

Jim Colt

I currently run a Hypertherm 1250 on my cnc mill. I started with a 600. It worked good up to 3/8". I then went to the 1000. It was never quite right for 3/4". After a year of fighting it I finally got Tommy Hanchette from Hypertherm out here. We found lots of things wrong, but in the end decided I needed a 1250.

If you are suffering from cut quality issues my first recommendation is to double check the mechanized rating of the machine. Then make sure you are running the proper consumables for your application and heat. Make sure your air supply is unrestricted and clean and make sure you have an adequate power supply for the machine. Of special importance is the size of the supply wire.

After going though all these issues I went from poor cuts and terrible tip life with the 1000 cutting at 10 IPM in 5/8" to great cuts and long lasting tips at 27 IPM with the 1250. :)

Also don't pierce start if you can help it. A side start will keep your tips in better shape longer.

I've also noticed that the faster feed speed helps control the dross. Hypertherm has some really good tutorials on line that help cover this.

Hypertherm is using some of the extra time during this economic slowdown to spruce up facilities.....5 of our buildings in the Lebanon and Hanover NH (USA) areas needed new signs.....here is the first one cut from 1/4" stainless steel on a PlasmaCam cutting machine with a Hypertherm Powermax45 air plasma. Logo was scanned, saved as a bitmap, then converted to a cut path using the PlasmaCam software.....total drawing time from scanning til cutting was less than 10 minutes. Total cut time at 44 inches per minute was less than 7 minutes....4 more to go!

Jim colt

I just wanted to say I had a great production run today one of the best ever. the straight lead ins deffinatly make a differance vs the curved lead ins. And im happy it didnt crash into the plate other than once and i checked it and the electrode was goin bad so i changed it and finnshed the run.

Ok heres a pic of one of the brackets I cut out.
http://www.illusivefabrications.com/html/modules/coppermine/albums/installations/Johns%20Explorer/normal_IMG00056-20090729-1341.jpg

heres the rest of the project if anybodys interested lol
http://www.illusivefabrications.com/html/modules/coppermine/albums/installations/Johns%20Explorer/normal_IMG00068-20090729-1635.jpg

bump on this thread, I'de like to try and see how smooth of cuts you guys are getting.

Here is a picture of the edge of 1/2" steel cut on a PlasmaCam with a Hypertherm Powermax45. All of my cuts have an extremely smooth edge finish....Jim Colt

wow thats smooth. I need to get my Dynatorch tweaked or soemthing to tighten up the motion control. In my pic above you can see some of the roughness on the tab I cut on my machine. All of the major companys that I compete with in my industry use laser for there parts so I need to keep my plasma parts as godd as they can be. I have seen some cnc plasma cuts that are all jagged on the edges.

Here is a piece of 1.5" AR plate cut with a HP1650, I trimmed an inch off of the beveled side which made the actual cut 1.375".

A lot of people don't realize the effect that a little roughness or "cogging" has on the RMS finish on the cut edge. Staying on path is one thing....however a well tuned machine needs to stay on path while maintaining speed, and smooth, fluidic motion. I occasionally see edge roughness caused by the z axis (Torch Height Control) control loop being tuned too tight.....meaning a minute but rapid oscillation is present during the cut. This can increase the lines that appear on the cut edge as well.....usually can be fixed by detuning the torch height control so it does not try to react to quickly.

Jim Colt

I need to call up Dynatorch and double check my settings one day with them. Sometimes it crashes into the plate especially if its not 100% flat. I want to have this thing tuned as perfect as I can get it.

Here is a couple of the first parts of the new machine. The "CNC" sign is 14g HRS. The Celtic knot was cut into a antique saw blade about 31" across.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/ted383/sawbladesigninstalled004x.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/ted383/sawbladesigninstalled005x.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/ted383/rondassawbladeinstalled004x.jpg

You should paint the first saw blade white or add a white background so it's easier to see driving by. I really like the second one, nice work!

My first idea was to put alum sheet behind the lettering. This would be effective in making the lettering stand out, but it would also take the "depth" away, meaning it would not be as obvious that the letters are holes cut in the metal.

So I bought a couple cans of rust-oleum hammered silver an had at it.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v282/ted383/sawbladesignpainted003x.jpg


.

Where did you get your laser that's mounted on your plaz? With the two lines going perpendicular with each other and it being right underneath your cutting tip makes that a very desirable setup. I've been looking around and I can't get get a laser from Koike for under a thousand. Other setups that I've run into also don't allow the laser beam to be directly under the torch tip. Greatly appreciated.

MiJapple I know that dynatorch.com carriers the laser locators. They are around $ 150......

Thanks Dustin. I suppose I wasn't looking hard enough for a laser locator. I don't know if there is anymore companies that sell these, just so I can shop around and show my boss some variety. I've been trying to get a laser from our normal plasma parts supplier but it's taking them forever and it isn't as nice. We would have to build a mounting bracket right next to the torch and it would still require a manual offset to work properly. I sometimes like to move the parts being cut in the middle of the program, if I've made a mistake on nesting them, and I don't think a laser with a manual offset would help me in those situations. Also my original question was for slammedxonair because I saw his laser locator in the videos he's posted. It looks like he uses a dynatorch setup as well. So very cool. Thanks!

Thanks Dustin. I suppose I wasn't looking hard enough for a laser locator. I don't know if there is anymore companies that sell these, just so I can shop around and show my boss some variety. I've been trying to get a laser from our normal plasma parts supplier but it's taking them forever and it isn't as nice. We would have to build a mounting bracket right next to the torch and it would still require a manual offset to work properly. I sometimes like to move the parts being cut in the middle of the program, if I've made a mistake on nesting them, and I don't think a laser with a manual offset would help me in those situations. Also my original question was for slammedxonair because I saw his laser locator in the videos he's posted. It looks like he uses a dynatorch setup as well. So very cool. Thanks!


I went to the DT website to look at the LL and noticed something. The LL shown is not there new version. They still offer that one (I believe), but the new one is controlled by the DT software. I have both versions. One has a switch and the other plugs into the new wiring harness. So......If you order one from DT make sure you specify that you need one with a toggle switch (unless you have a DT w/new harness). The LL's are 1.375" bore, so will fit most torches, but beware they are a plastic composite of some sort. For stuff under .25" it is OK to run with a hi duty cycle, but a oxy torch with long pre-heats or a big plaz unit cutting/piercing big plate it may not work so well.

The toggle switch version comes with a power supply and an extension that should fit a 5X10 with no problem. It is easy to extend the leads however if needed. I had to add about 8' to ours to fit a 6X10 table, I also put a switch on our command center to control without reaching for the torch.

Cheers!

but beware they are a plastic composite of some sort. For stuff under .25" it is OK to run with a hi duty cycle, but a oxy torch with long pre-heats or a big plaz unit cutting/piercing big plate it may not work so well.

I cut 24ga up to 2" steel on this plasma. I also have used the oxy torch to cut up to 3" plate so every once in a while I'll do some thick plate. I just want to know if anybody has had a problem with the Dynatorch Laser Locator due to sparks or heat from cuts. I just might have to fit it with metal flashing or something to protect it. If anybody has ideas it would be greatly appreciated. In fact my boss just ordered the LL with the switch so if it fails soon because of sparks and heat then that wouldn't be a good thing. This is an amazing forum, and thanks for all the input.

Just a side note: Dynatorch offers bores from 1.375" to 1.75" to 2". My torch is a 2" so they have them to order.

Yea I bought the Dynatoch laser locator when I bought my cnc from them. It works great and its the model that has a 110 plug in and the toggle on and off switch.

What thickness of plate do you cut? Have you melted or damaged it in any way doing thick plate?

I cut 24ga up to 2" steel on this plasma. I also have used the oxy torch to cut up to 3" plate so every once in a while I'll do some thick plate. I just want to know if anybody has had a problem with the Dynatorch Laser Locator due to sparks or heat from cuts. I just might have to fit it with metal flashing or something to protect it. If anybody has ideas it would be greatly appreciated. In fact my boss just ordered the LL with the switch so if it fails soon because of sparks and heat then that wouldn't be a good thing. This is an amazing forum, and thanks for all the input.

Just a side note: Dynatorch offers bores from 1.375" to 1.75" to 2". My torch is a 2" so they have them to order.

OK, so your torch is water cooled? That would solve any heat issue. The metal flashing idea would make it last even longer. Our oxy torch gets really hot when it is doing 1"+ plate, I have often wondered if I could build a small heat exchanger for it and run it through a tweco TC-900 cooler (we use those all over the shop for our weld heads and have rebuilt spares on hand).

The LL install quickly by hand so you could use it as needed I would imagine. If you felt it might overheat on a job, you could remove it in about 10 seconds, even line up and remove would not be out of the question.

It will become a close friend.

WSS

OK, so your torch is water cooled?

The Torch itself has coolent running through it but when I mention a water table it means that instead of a downdraft table to keep the smoke down we capture it by water in the table itself. This is so we could drain the table at will and cut with oxy/fuel.

I've never had any issues with it. It mounts probably 1/4 of the way up the torch on my machine. It just slides on and tightens down with a set screw knob.

MiJapple I know that dynatorch.com carriers the laser locators. They are around $ 150......

FWIW I'm working on a laser locator type of doohickey for an entirely different industry and just want to let you know that the parts to make something like this cross hair sight would cost you under $15. That includes 2 5v or 3v lasers with Fresnel lenses and battery holder for 2 AA batteries with switch.

FWIW I'm working on a laser locator type of doohickey for an entirely different industry and just want to let you know that the parts to make something like this cross hair sight would cost you under $15. That includes 2 5v or 3v lasers with Fresnel lenses and battery holder for 2 AA batteries with switch.

Do you have links to the parts needed?

Do you have links to the parts needed?

buy two of these: http://www.lasersale.com/catalog/display_item.asp?id=3500
bad hack out the parts needed?

-L

Do you have links to the parts needed?

http://www.lasersale.com/catalog/display_item.asp?id=2788

They run specials. I think I paid $5 each and $2 for the Fresnel lens. The rest of the parts I got from Newark.com (AA battery holder, current limiting resister and a DPST switch).

Google "laser Diodes". There are plenty of other sources.

So how would I hook up a laser diode like this: http://www.lasersale.com/catalog/display_item.asp?id=3247

From what I can find on the Internet I would need to run two AA batteries in a series with two 100 ohm resistors between the red and black wires on the diode and the batteries?

How would I hook two of these diodes together directly to a 125v wall outlet?

Thanks for the help!

You would need a 5v DC power supply. Like a wall wart for camcorder. Because Diodes have very little internal resistance, and cheap power supplies aren't current limited, you need a current limiting resister or the laser will burn out.

You would need a 5v DC power supply. Like a wall wart for camcorder. Because Diodes have very little internal resistance, and cheap power supplies aren't current limited, you need a current limiting resister or the laser will burn out.

Do you have links to these or how to hook them up?

I cut out these maple leaves on my plas table, hammer textured them and then attached them to a branch. This will attach to a 4x4 on the community bulletin board.

Very nice. What is the finish?


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that looks great!

Motofab I hauled it over to the powder coater locally this morning and he is going to clear shoot it for me. All the joints are seal welded so a good clear should hold up for a long time (I hope).