View Full Version : Cleaning your CNC table with wet/dry Vacuum
apeman88 03-21-2009, 01:31 AM This really isn't 100% Tormach but it will be used with a Tormach so I figure I put it in here.
I'm tired of cleaning a wet/dry vacuum and buying a new one every 6 months. It seems the filter in the standard wet/dry vacuum (I'm using a Home Depot Husky right now) gets clogged up after a few minute of use and looses suction especially if you get it wet with coolant which is inevitable when vacumming chips.
What is everyone else using? Is there an industrial wet/dry vacuum? I'm on my 3rd wet/dry already so I've popped down over $400 on vacuums and am sick and tired of the regular wet/dry vacuums from Hardware stores.
I've been searching for an industrial vacuum and found these... does anyone have experience with them??
http://www.airtxinternational.com/vacuums.php
The SpeedVac is really cheap but not sure if it will work... the SmartVac or Drum Devil looks nice too. But all these uses compressed air so I would think they all use Venturi for suction. I was told Venturis are not great for suction... but they are claiming they work well. Anyone have experience with these?
I also came across the Big Brute which looks really nice... but they are in UK. http://www.bigbrute.co.uk/cleanup/cncmachines.htm Anyone know if there are equivalent ones in the US?
TOTALLYRC 03-21-2009, 04:11 AM I am using a cheap orange one from lowe's and I am not having problems at all, other than the cleaning part, and yes it still has a filter in it.
It is also quite small.
If the cleaning frequency is a problem, buy an industrial vacuum head that goes on a 55 gal drum, it should take quite a while to fill. If you put a drain valve in the bottom or at least as low as possible on the side and only use it to clean the machine, you might even be able to recover some of the coolant as it settles to the bottom.
Try your local industrial supply house or msc or graingers.
Mike
levelzero 03-21-2009, 06:08 AM I've been using a craftsman vac for almost two years now and it's still running strong. The paper filter disintegrated and the foam filter is only about 3/4 on but she just keeps going. I do 95% aluminium though so that could have an effect.
saabaero 03-21-2009, 07:04 AM I would think you should be able to use a standard wet and dry vacuum but replace the paper filter with a fine screen or open cell foam. Since you are just sucking up chips (and coolant), filtering out dust shouldn't be a problem. I use a stainless (wet/dry) vacuum from Lowe's, There is a deflector on the inlet to the tank that directs everything downward and away from the paper filter. It normally uses a paper bag for dust but is removable for wet applications. I keep the paper filter as I sometimes use the vacuum to clean the floor.
Don Clement 03-21-2009, 11:42 AM I have been using a Rigid wet/dry vacuum from home depot for about ten years in my shop. I cut the plastic hose in two and connect the two hose halves using a slip on piece of pvc so that if the hose get clogged with stringy chips, it can be easily cleaned A paper filter is not used but rather a layer of foam is used that can be rinsed clean. You might consider a K&N type filter http://www.knfilters.com/ K&N filters used to work great on dirt bikes in the dessert.
Don Clement
Running Springs, California
apeman88 03-21-2009, 06:25 PM Humm.... thanks for all the tips. I mustbe doing something wrong then. My wet/dry would last 6-9 months and it would die. I always buy the one with the microfilter thinking it would be better. Maybe that is my problem. I'll give the wet/dry vac another try.
However, does anyone have any experience with the Venturi style vacuums? Are they worth it?
http://www.airtxinternational.com/vacuums.php
....However, does anyone have any experience with the Venturi style vacuums? Are they worth it?
http://www.airtxinternational.com/vacuums.php
Have you looked at the specifications for these? Particularly the air consumption?
The Drum Devil uses 28 cfm, one of the Smartvacs uses 30 cfm the other 50 cfm.
Do you realise how big a compressor you need for even 28 cfm? I have a 7.5 hp Kaeser Rotary Screw compressor that provides 28 cfm at 100 psi. It cost over $8000 and it would only be able to run the smaller Smartvac. I think venturi style vacuums are a big have.:)
MichaelHenry 03-22-2009, 11:00 AM I've been using a Fein shop vac for the past 5 years or so and it's been working fine. Aside from drawing a good vacuum, it has a long power cord and a long hose which means I can use it on most of the tools in my shop without having to move the plug from one receptacle to another.
Mike
Don Clement 03-22-2009, 11:11 AM For my home I have a Dyson vacuum. No filters or bags. Great consistant suction with the Dyson. The Dyson uses a vortex to separate particles out. http://www.dyson.com/technology/rootTech.asp I inquired to Dyson about a shop wet/dry vac but Dyson does not make one. Too bad. The vortex idea would be the perfect solution.
-Don
mc-motorsports 03-22-2009, 11:25 AM I've been using a ridgid for 5 years, every day, I have to empty it about every other day, trust me I fill it up! Mostly steel, no problems. I can't tell you how many hoses and attachments I've replaced, probably a filter every month, but I swear by Ridgid shop vacs, mine looks like hell, has been though hell and still works great!
MC
apeman88 03-22-2009, 11:47 AM I've been using a ridgid for 5 years, every day, I have to empty it about every other day, trust me I fill it up! Mostly steel, no problems. I can't tell you how many hoses and attachments I've replaced, probably a filter every month, but I swear by Ridgid shop vacs, mine looks like hell, has been though hell and still works great!
MC
What type of filter do you use on the Ridgid? I think 3 types are available. I have only used the Micro Filter (the most expensive one) but I've bee nfinding out as soon as coolant gets it wet... suction drops. Wondering if my filter needs to be replaced more often.
mc-motorsports 03-22-2009, 11:51 AM What type of filter do you use on the Ridgid? I think 3 types are available. I have only used the Micro Filter (the most expensive one) but I've bee nfinding out as soon as coolant gets it wet... suction drops. Wondering if my filter needs to be replaced more often.
I just use the "Standard 1 layer" Ridgid filters. The Micro Filters plug immediatly. I've never had a problem running the cheap one, usually there will be a half gallon of coolant in the bottom that I drain before dumping the chips into the scrap drums.
MC
apeman88 03-22-2009, 12:28 PM Thanks! I'll stop by Home Depot later and get the standard filter and try it out again on a Ridgid.
LeeWay 03-22-2009, 01:28 PM When I do clean my chips, I use a dust broom and pan first. Then follow up with the vac. I clean it first thing in the am so the tray has time to drain as much as possible. I use a large terry towel wash cloth held on by rubber bands or those very small bungee cords. No other filter.
When it looses suction, I throw that one out nd put a new on in. You may find that a shop rag will work if large enough.
Works great.
No big expense.
Those micro filters are best for mdf and sheet rock dust. Anything light like that will put fines back into the air and you could potentially be breathing this stuff. Typical filters won't catch this.
Don Clement 03-22-2009, 02:37 PM I use a piece of foam held on by rubber bands on my Rigid no other filter. Its been working for ten years in my shop. No lack of suction even with coolant. Foam can be rinsed clean and easily replaced.
kprice1658 03-23-2009, 01:04 PM I use a Rigid from Home Depot with a standard filter. But I wrap a sheet of ScotchBrite around it small bungee cords - works really well. Over a year like this with no motor problems and suction is always good.
Kevin
SarcasmOMatic 03-23-2009, 02:17 PM Regular shop vacs are so dang load that they make your ears bleed when you turn them on. Whether your use bags or filters they also clog up after just a little while and start to lose suction. After going through a couple myself I decide to buy a Dust Cobra from Oneida-Air (http://www.oneida-air.com/cobra.php). It uses a cyclone to pre-separate nearly all of the dust/debris before it ever hits the filter. It also uses a HEPA filter (after the cyclone) so the returning air is probably cleaner than your shop air. It is targeted toward woodworking and general shop vac type uses but it also seems like it should work fine for wet scenarios as well. I would think the water/coolant would spin out in the cyclone but even if it got through the machine uses the Cleanstream brand of filters (http://www.cleanstream.com/index.html) which are rated for wet use so you should be alright. I would check with Oneida to be sure though.
The machine is built like a tank (right here in the USA no less) and has an amazing amount of suction compared to standard shop vacs.
BlueFin 03-23-2009, 10:43 PM I have a 5 gallon 1.25 HP Genie that was old and used when I got it, I did put on a new paper filter over the foam recently, but I have had zero problems with it, I do wear the same hearing protection that you see the guys at the tire shop use.
This thread reminds me of last year when I was at a fire in the middle of no-where and met up with these guys from the State of Maine, somehow we got to talking about the Deadliest Catch on Discovery Channel and someone mention "Who would of thought a bunch of grown men would sit around watching a TV show about crab pots being pulled up on deck?" And look at us now with a vacume cleaner discussion :) aint the Internet great?!
Don Clement 03-24-2009, 11:33 PM The Gore Cleastream filters look like the ticket for a wet/dry vac. W.L. Gore is a great company. My Danner hiking boots and my REI raincoat use the same type Gore-Tex Teflon membrane used in the Cleanstream filter. Also Gore made the absolute best RF coaxial cables with practically no phase shift when flexing up thru Ku band. IIR Gore created the Gore-Tex Teflon material by heating virgin Teflon sheet or rod and abruptly snapping the material that would create a micro sized holes in Teflon sieve.
-Don
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