Hi folks, my name's Jason. I'm brand new to machining, mills, CNC and the entire lot. My father was a machinist all his life and I spent some time at the shop with him when I was a kid but aside from that I know nothing.

I'm getting into machining because I just generally like to make things and I specifically want to make a nice enclosure for a little electronics project I am working on. What I'd like to do is take a sheet of approx 1/8" aluminum, cut a square hole from the center and round the corners, then round the outside corners, drill 4 countersunk holes, bend it to form a stand and then anodize the whole mess. I realize I could do all of that by hand with cheaper tools but I'd like to be able to repeat it and be very accurate.

I'm also interested in being able to make molds for casting of urethane resins and basically anything else I can dream up :)

So, I've been doing a lot of research for the past few weeks, looking at different machines and deals and trying to learn a little something here and there. I think I've convinced myself that I can do the things I want to do with a CNC mill. I was originally considering trying to build/buy/borrow/steal a laser cutter since I felt like that would be the "right" tool to cut sheets of aluminum with but after spending some time reading it seems like I can do that plus more with a small mill, so that's where I am heading.

So with all that said, I'm looking at buying the Taig 2019ER with a Gecko setup from deepgroove1 (http://www.deepgroove1.com/gecko/geckodriver.htm). I've done a ton of reading on this site and others and it seems like it's a good price, and fairly foolproof. I understand there were/are some problems with deepgroove1's custom controller but the Gecko setup seems to be a pretty safe bet.

I'm also looking at some books to familiarize myself with machining in general. So far I've seen some good things about Machining Fundamentals (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1590702492/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance).

So, if you are still reading, are any of my assumptions wrong up there? Will I be able to do the things I mentioned with that tool? Is that book any good, or are there better ones for a total newbie? And also, if I wanted to start messing around with some stainless steel, can I cut it with that machine?

Jason

cutting the parts shouldnt be a major issue, thing is you need to figure out if the travels on that machine are large enough to cut the outline of the parts you want to cut.

also, it has been my experience that bending alum is tough at best. could you machine the parts and then screw them together rather than bending?

Hi folks, my name's Jason. I'm brand new to machining, mills, CNC and the entire lot. My father was a machinist all his life and I spent some time at the shop with him when I was a kid but aside from that I know nothing.

I'm getting into machining because I just generally like to make things and I specifically want to make a nice enclosure for a little electronics project I am working on. What I'd like to do is take a sheet of approx 1/8" aluminum, cut a square hole from the center and round the corners, then round the outside corners, drill 4 countersunk holes, bend it to form a stand and then anodize the whole mess. I realize I could do all of that by hand with cheaper tools but I'd like to be able to repeat it and be very accurate.

I'm also interested in being able to make molds for casting of urethane resins and basically anything else I can dream up :)

So, I've been doing a lot of research for the past few weeks, looking at different machines and deals and trying to learn a little something here and there. I think I've convinced myself that I can do the things I want to do with a CNC mill. I was originally considering trying to build/buy/borrow/steal a laser cutter since I felt like that would be the "right" tool to cut sheets of aluminum with but after spending some time reading it seems like I can do that plus more with a small mill, so that's where I am heading.

So with all that said, I'm looking at buying the Taig 2019ER with a Gecko setup from deepgroove1 (http://www.deepgroove1.com/gecko/geckodriver.htm). I've done a ton of reading on this site and others and it seems like it's a good price, and fairly foolproof. I understand there were/are some problems with deepgroove1's custom controller but the Gecko setup seems to be a pretty safe bet.

I'm also looking at some books to familiarize myself with machining in general. So far I've seen some good things about Machining Fundamentals (http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/detail/-/1590702492/ref=ord_cart_shr?_encoding=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&v=glance).

So, if you are still reading, are any of my assumptions wrong up there? Will I be able to do the things I mentioned with that tool? Is that book any good, or are there better ones for a total newbie? And also, if I wanted to start messing around with some stainless steel, can I cut it with that machine?

Jason
Although you are correct in thinking that a small mill is more versatile, if all you want to do is cut sheet like that for forming boxes, you are going to be hard pressed to beat a laser. Good laser will cut 300+ipm, depending on material. The 4000W at work will cut 3/4" steel plate at 30ipm, but that is a big machine. Anyway, sheet metal is much quicker and easier cut on a laser.
I'm not trying to discourage your mill purchase as I think it's a great idea, just provide some info for anyone interested. Everyone needs a copy of Machineries Handbook. To save a couple bucks scope out an older version on eBay or Amazon. It's handy to have for all sorts of stuff.

Although you are correct in thinking that a small mill is more versatile, if all you want to do is cut sheet like that for forming boxes, you are going to be hard pressed to beat a laser. Good laser will cut 300+ipm, depending on material. The 4000W at work will cut 3/4" steel plate at 30ipm, but that is a big machine. Anyway, sheet metal is much quicker and easier cut on a laser.
I'm not trying to discourage your mill purchase as I think it's a great idea, just provide some info for anyone interested. Everyone needs a copy of Machineries Handbook. To save a couple bucks scope out an older version on eBay or Amazon. It's handy to have for all sorts of stuff.

I'd love to have a laser, but I have not run across any in nearly the price range of the mill. Am I looking in the wrong places? The mill I am looking at (or even a step or two up) stays under 5k and I have not seen any metal cutting lasers for under 10k. Are there hobbiest grade lasers out there I should be looking at?

I'd love to have a laser, but I have not run across any in nearly the price range of the mill. Am I looking in the wrong places? The mill I am looking at (or even a step or two up) stays under 5k and I have not seen any metal cutting lasers for under 10k. Are there hobbiest grade lasers out there I should be looking at?

Not that are gonna cut the kind of metal you want. The lasers we have at work are big, a pair of 5'x10' beds each, plus the resonator itself. Big tanks of assist gas outside too, definitely not for home use. For your purposes a mill is a much better choice. I'm just presenting it as information, as sometimes it's just helpful to understand how different processes compare in terms of efficiency.
Unless you run into really high volumes (in which case you can pay someone with a laser and a brake to make it for you) the mill is going to be a much more cost effective tool for smaller runs.

cutting the parts shouldnt be a major issue, thing is you need to figure out if the travels on that machine are large enough to cut the outline of the parts you want to cut.

also, it has been my experience that bending alum is tough at best. could you machine the parts and then screw them together rather than bending?

p5k, your message has got me thinking about buying a bigger machine and either doing a conversion or just biting the bullet and buying a full kit. I priced out a similar machine to what you have in your sig and it looks like around $2500 without any incidentals or other things I'm not thinking of. Does that sound about right?

When I originally started down this path I kind of had my heart set on a Syil X4 and it seems like I am slowly headed back to it. It's a lot of money but it seems like a really excellent machine that would probably handle any job I ever need to throw at it.

hehe you know, i quit keeping track of the $$ when i bought the mill, cause at that point, it was just something else that the wife could nag me about. No but really, yea, i guess that sounds close, not counting software. and dont forget all the tooling. you can get a decent starter kit of endmills from several places, enco, littlemachineshop, and there are others, that will get you started, but you'll also need collets, hold downs, and have you thought about coolant? or where your gonna put the mill? in my case, i started off with a blank 2400 sq-ft shop, so i just made a 10x10 room under the loft, built all the workbenches, the coolant drain pan, put in an airconditioner, insulation, lights, and all that just for this mil and my lathes.

I did all my own work, just cause that part of it really interested me. I went with the cnc fusion kit, cause it was the best bang for the buck, i suggest going with the gecko 203v's just cause of how tough they are.

the bottom line is, your on the right path, figure out what you want it to do, and then work backwards toward what you need to get it done. I will say this, if you do build it, rather than buying it, you will have a far greater understanding of what it is that you have, and how to use it, and what its limitations are. Plus by the time your done building it, if something does go wrong, you know what to do to fix it, and your not calling someone for warrenty work, when you and i both know that there are very few companies out there that give a damn after they get the sale.

Hi vonnieda. Welcome to the Zone!

I think you really will want the $3600 CNC ready Novakon NM-135:

http://novakon.net/3.html

Converting X3:

$1150 X3 mill.
$1000 CNCFusion Deluxe kit.
$0800 G203V electonics, BOB and PSU.
$0500 miscelaneous.
-------
$3450.00 Cost of converting X3.

CNC Ready Novakon NM-135:

$3600 Novakon Industrial quality CNC ready mill. Includes stand, 3 N34 motors and motor cables.
$0800 G203V electronics.
-------
$4400 Ready to make chips.

CR.

hmm i guess prices have changed since i got mine,,,
i paid under 1k for the mill, including shipping, liftgate and all...
i paid about 500 for the cncfusion kit, i didnt get the delux, didnt see the need for what i'm doing
i paid around 450 for geckos, around 100 for the psu and used a 25 buck bob
so thats 2075 + tooling, hold downs, coolant system, and software. ofcourse i ended up paying around 750 for my bobcad... oh and dont forget Mach3, wire, solder, screws, a case for the psu and drivers,

oops, forgot motors.. thats important.. i paid around 150 for all 3 of my steppers.

oh, and dont forget the bandaids... trust me your gonna need em. you might think i'm crazy, but the first time you bump into an endmill thats still chucked up, and it slices you good and deep, you'll learn what i did. THEM THINGS ARE MIGHTY SHARP!

oh, and dont forget the face shield, cause at first, when you start cutting, your gonna just stand there and watch it, and the chips will be flying, and sooner or later, DOINK you got metal in the eye... and just let me tell you this much, when they come at your eyeball with that dremel lookn and soundn thing in the dr office, you'll remember some eye protection.. go ahead, ask me how i know that one!

For some of us little guys out here, a thousand bucks is a thousand bucks....
and two thousand bucks is twice that....

$1,089 Grizzly mill delivered
$ 225 Gecko G540 (over stock sale)
$ 150 (3) 387 oz NEMA 23s
$ 60 48 VDC power supply.
$ 190 rolled ball screw and nuts from NOOK (per CAD Monkeys plans)
$ ??? Aluminum stock for the motor and screw mounts.
$ ??? ATBs
$ ??? Ham Mic. plugs and wire
$ ??? Limit switches

The satisfaction and learning benefit of doing it yourself = $ priceless $ :)

For some of us little guys out here, a thousand bucks is a thousand bucks....
and two thousand bucks is twice that....

$1,089 Grizzly mill delivered
$ 225 Gecko G540 (over stock sale)
$ 150 (3) 387 oz NEMA 23s
$ 60 48 VDC power supply.
$ 190 rolled ball screw and nuts from NOOK (per CAD Monkeys plans)
$ ??? Aluminum stock for the motor and screw mounts.
$ ??? ATBs
$ ??? Ham Mic. plugs and wire
$ ??? Limit switches

The satisfaction and learning benefit of doing it yourself = $ priceless $ :)

If your Z axis drive with 387 works out--You are the gunia pig--Priceless. If not, then may cost some more.

I'm rooting for YOU Matt!

CR.

If your Z axis drive with 387 works out--You are the gunia pig--Priceless. If not, then may cost some more.

That's one reason why I'm leaning towards an economy ball screw build... to elliminate the inefficiency of the ACME screws.

I just couldn't resist the simplicity of that little G540. To "cute".

Besides, I think I can live with a slow Z.

I'm rooting for YOU Matt!

I appreciate that.

Hi vonnieda. Welcome to the Zone!

I think you really will want the $3600 CNC ready Novakon NM-135:

http://novakon.net/3.html

Converting X3:

$1150 X3 mill.
$1000 CNCFusion Deluxe kit.
$0800 G203V electonics, BOB and PSU.
$0500 miscelaneous.
-------
$3450.00 Cost of converting X3.

CNC Ready Novakon NM-135:

$3600 Novakon Industrial quality CNC ready mill. Includes stand, 3 N34 motors and motor cables.
$0800 G203V electronics.
-------
$4400 Ready to make chips.

CR.

Thanks CR! That looks like a really nice machine, but I've never heard of Novakon before. (Remember, I am new to this). Are they a good brand? Is that a better machine than the Syil x4?

Thanks CR! That looks like a really nice machine, but I've never heard of Novakon before. (Remember, I am new to this). Are they a good brand? Is that a better machine than the Syil x4?

All of the X machines are made in China by various factories. Differences exist between the factories and the quality acceptance of the dealers.

The Novakon factory company--How Mau-- seems to be a cut above. Novakon seems to be a top QC dealership. The actual machine is built a little heavier-duty than the X4 and is available with American made Gecko electronics--So Yes.

CR.

I have been looking and I have settled on the NV-135. I have talked to them quite a few times and they always have responded back quickly and have been very friendly on the phone. Of course this can always change after they have made their sale. That I do not know but for the price and what you get with it it looks like a solid mill. I am planning on getting mine ordered within the next 4-6 weeks. I already have enough work lined up to pay for it on the very first job! Hopefully more will come after that first job is done. IMHO I think the NM-135 would be a nice buy for you.

IMHO, I think the Novakon NM-135 is a BEST BUY! It is not a hobby machine pressed into production, but a production machine priced low enough for the hobbyest.

CR.

Creavice,

I cant wait to get mine on order. After alot of research it seems like a no brainer to me.

$3600 Novakon Industrial quality CNC ready mill. Includes stand, 3 N34 motors and motor cables.
$0800 G203V electronics.
-------
$4400 Ready to make chips.

CR.


Is this Novakon mill somewhat comparable to a light-duty Tormach? Like the OP I’ve been going back and forth from Taig to Tormach to BP-style CNC conversion due to the large number of older used mills on the market for pennies right now. The Novakon seems like a great value and it’s physically small which is a plus. Anyway, I would like a mill capable of easily handling small runs of small aluminum and some small steel parts and the N-135 looks like it’s up to it.

Also, the configuration you’ve mentioned uses Gecko drives rather than whatever Novakon supplies in their $5,000 setup. Is there a big advantage to using the Geckos? Also, has anyone used their fourth-axis kit?

Ryan

Is this Novakon mill somewhat comparable to a light-duty Tormach?

Hi Ryan! Welcome to the Zone!

Yes, I think that is a good way to describe it.

Like the OP I’ve been going back and forth from Taig to Tormach to BP-style CNC conversion due to the large number of older used mills on the market for pennies right now. The Novakon seems like a great value and it’s physically small which is a plus. Anyway, I would like a mill capable of easily handling small runs of small aluminum and some small steel parts and the N-135 looks like it’s up to it.

I agree!

Also, the configuration you’ve mentioned uses Gecko drives rather than whatever Novakon supplies in their $5,000 setup. Is there a big advantage to using the Geckos?

The absolute LAST thing you need in a production machine is a lot of problems. If you read this forum, you will find plenty of nightmares with the Chinese driver electronics. Gecko is the Crem de la Crem and worth every penny due to fantastic reliability and performance.

Maybe reading this will help explain it better:

http://geckodrive.com/upload/How_the_G203V_gets_the_most_from_your_motor.pdf

Also, has anyone used their fourth-axis kit?

Ryan

As far as I know, no one has yet GOT the newer 4th axis.

CR.

Hello folks I'm new to this but very interested .I have been a CNC machinist for over 18 years .

Hello folks I'm new to this but very interested .I have been a CNC machinist for over 18 years .

Well Hi there fanuc1. Welcome to the Zone! You should fit right in. I bet you have a WEALTH of information to share with us.

CR.

CR (or others), do you happen to know how one would hook up Gecko drives, or breakout board or whatever to control spindle speed on the 135? I've been exchanging some emails with Khai at Novakon (who has been very responsive and helpful) and he said he wasn't sure what the electrical interface to the speed control was but would find out. I'm just curious if someone here already knows?

I'd assume this is all handled by their control box but if I was going to DIY it how would I get Mach3 controlling the spindle speed?

If your Z axis drive with 387 works out--You are the gunia pig--Priceless.

I have a "secret weapon" for the Z axis as well. It's a very nice 4:1 purchase ball bearing block and tackle that used to be the boom vang on my sail boat (before it sank... sniff) Will make an ecxellent counter weight for the mill head with only a ~20 lb. weight hanging off the end.

Give me a simple mechanical apparatus any day of the week.

All of the X machines are made in China by various factories. Differences exist between the factories and the quality acceptance of the dealers.

The Novakon factory company--How Mau-- seems to be a cut above. Novakon seems to be a top QC dealership. The actual machine is built a little heavier-duty than the X4 and is available with American made Gecko electronics--So Yes.

CR.

Sieg Sell KX3 to smithy,and other 2 customer like harborfreight.travers.except Novakan....
then sieg have a customers in taiwan name how-mao,and they take KX3 machine and transfer to canada which not arrow by sieg,during will make market mass..and hurt sieg US dealers......
that is also why novakan price always change.becuase maybe one day they hardly get machines....
so,HM135,just KX3...but not factroy by How-mao.also,it is not heavy than my X4. .we make it by ourself....
i`m not want to say bad for competitor,just say truth....

CR (or others), do you happen to know how one would hook up Gecko drives, or breakout board or whatever to control spindle speed on the 135? I've been exchanging some emails with Khai at Novakon (who has been very responsive and helpful) and he said he wasn't sure what the electrical interface to the speed control was but would find out. I'm just curious if someone here already knows?

I'd assume this is all handled by their control box but if I was going to DIY it how would I get Mach3 controlling the spindle speed?

I don't know the answer to this. I HOPE it is not the same system that Syil uses, because that is not so good.

CR.

I have a "secret weapon" for the Z axis as well. It's a very nice 4:1 purchase ball bearing block and tackle that used to be the boom vang on my sail boat (before it sank... sniff) Will make an ecxellent counter weight for the mill head with only a ~20 lb. weight hanging off the end.

Give me a simple mechanical apparatus any day of the week.

CAPITAL! Just don't put TOO much counterweight. Don't exactly balance the head. You NEED a certain amount of head weight--about 1/3--to get good cutter force and keep the head from bouncing. MY counter weight weighs 60 pounds.

CR.

I don't know the answer to this. I HOPE it is not the same system that Syil uses, because that is not so good.

CR.

very unlucky it is same contoller as our C6,or BF20/X2 controller box.
also,i don`t think it is so badly.
we have big quantity sales,so some customers report problem will seens like very mostly.but it is not turth.
How-mau rush our elecontrics engieers.so provide contoller to novokan was same as our old elecontrics...

You NEED a certain amount of head weight--about 1/3--to get good cutter force and keep the head from bouncing

should help with back lash to, shouldn't it? since the nut will always be riding on the same side of the screw thread.

Sieg Sell KX3 to smithy,and other 2 customer like harborfreight.travers.except Novakan....
then sieg have a customers in taiwan name how-mao,and they take KX3 machine and transfer to canada which not arrow by sieg,during will make market mass..and hurt sieg US dealers......
that is also why novakan price always change.becuase maybe one day they hardly get machines....
so,HM135,just KX3...but not factroy by How-mao.also,it is not heavy than my X4. .we make it by ourself....
i`m not want to say bad for competitor,just say truth....

Thanks for the info syil. I stand corrected. How Mao is a Taiwanese company that only imports and exports the Sieg KX3.

The Novakon NM-135 is still a heck of a mill at a heck of a price though.

So KX3 is NOT heavier-duty than X4?

Does the X4 have huge 20 mm C5 grade ball screws?
Does the X4 have Massive State-of-the-art low-inductance high-speed N34 motors on all axes?
Does the X4 offer Gecko G203V controllers?

Is there a CNC ready X4, complete with stand, motors and cables (but no controller) available for only $3600 USD?

CR.

Thanks for the info syil. I stand corrected. How Mao is a Taiwanese company that only imports and exports the Sieg KX3. The Novakon NM-135 is still a heck of a mill at a heck of a price though.

So KX3 is NOT heavier duty than X4?

Does the X4 have 20 mm C5 grade ball screws?
Does the X4 have Massive State-of-the-art low-inductance N34 motors on all axes?
Does the X4 offer Gecko G203V controllers?

Is there a CNC ready X4, complete with stand, motors and cables (but no controller) available for only $3600?

CR.

i admit some option we still not avaliable but,not mean we are always like that.we have been consider on new model.thank you for your advise.
your questions for us,we will make it better....soonly.

you questions for us total can be made....soonly

Does any body out there understand this?

Sounds like it came from interpretation software.

I'm not saying these guys aren't good guys, but there is definitely a language barrier hear.

At least with the Canooks, you just have to know what a "hose head" is... :^ )

Take off, eh!

I think he means he will think about it and get back to us with an answer. (Is it wierd that I am beginning to understand this dialect?)

Syil IS good people. I don't mean to impune their machine/service in any way. I just see a large difference in price/value between these two machines.

CR.

ok, i know what i think of when i hear hose head, but what does it really mean?

ok, i know what i think of when i hear hose head, but what does it really mean?

I think it means just EXACTLY what YOU think it means. :)

CR.

i`d better left this thread to take more time on our products....

Way back in the day in Michigan, I used to listen to Ontario radio stations that aired the McKenzie brothers, who were very popular radio personalities.

Their bit always poked fun at the way Canadians talked, and back in those days (pre-historic times) the phrases "take off, eh" and "ya hose head" were tossed in to every other sentence.

My mistake for assuming everybody out there knew this....

So take off ya culturally deprived hose heads! eh!

As for Syil.... all I can say is that any body who surfs the boards and actively looks for customer feedback and then incorporates that into their product line is a "proactive" and "customer sensitive" manufacturer.

That's one reason why I'm leaning towards an economy ball screw build... to elliminate the inefficiency of the ACME screws.

I just couldn't resist the simplicity of that little G540. To "cute".

Besides, I think I can live with a slow Z.



I appreciate that.

i was thinking the other day, the x3 is not the machine to do budget. if i lived again i would buy a x2, get those hoss ballscrews for something like $115 (OMGWTF, already ground to fit the x2), a gecko 540 so i could run all nema 23's. That damn heavy head on the x3 (nuts)

syil is good people. crevice reamer is good people. Good "customer" support from both ends of the conversion (dyi/non dyi) :)

Smithy & Novakon

I notice that the image for the Novakon 135 and the pic for the Smithy 622 are the same (except for the Smithy logo and other very minor details.) It is the same picture.

Are these two companies related in some way, or did one simply "borrow" the others image?

Mark

Edit: I do see this kind of thing when multiple retailers use the image(s) supplied by the product's wholesaler. But might the use of the same image suggest both Novakon and Smithy receive their product from the same supplier?

Mark

So when's Hoss going to put out an X3 kit?

Good Catch nine!

Looks like a "borrow" job by Novakon. The Novakon pic actually has "622" embedded in the file name.

_wsb_343x356_622.jpg

CR.

syil is good people. crevice reamer is good people

Not me...

I'm a hose head!

but at least I know what one is... :)

time to practice my yodelling

I suppose you guys don't even know who Dick the Bruiser is?

So if Matt is a hose head, then hose heads must also be good people.

CR.

crevice reamer is good people.

Thanks Reed! Ditto! I take that as high praise coming from such a talented and creative person as you.

CR.

In case anyone is interested, I got a response from Novakon on controlling the spindle speed:

The electrical interface required is 0-10 volts DC power.

Lots of activity in this thread, and it's been very educational for me. The Novakon is really, really tempting. I like that it's all in one and that there are simple, add-on options for things like flood coolant. Of course, from reading this thread it sounds like the Novakon is the KX3 is the Smithy 622?

Novakon has been very responsive, and it seems so has Syil. So, anyone have any comparisons between the Novakon and the Syil X4? Both are about the same price if you include the electronics.

In case anyone is interested, I got a response from Novakon on controlling the spindle speed:

The electrical interface required is 0-10 volts DC power.

That is EXCELLENT news, because it means that, Unlike the SX3, a simple $40 C-6 card from CNC4PC can control the NM-135 spindle speed.

CR.

In case anyone is interested, I got a response from Novakon on controlling the spindle speed:

The electrical interface required is 0-10 volts DC power.

This is EXCELLENT NEWS, because it means that the NM-135 spindle speed can be controlled with a simple $40 C6 card from CNC4PC--or any of the BOBs that also have this built in.

Lots of activity in this thread, and it's been very educational for me. The Novakon is really, really tempting. I like that it's all in one and that there are simple, add-on options for things like flood coolant. Of course, from reading this thread it sounds like the Novakon is the KX3 is the Smithy 622?[/quote]

Apparently, all KX3's are the same. The Novakon seems to be much better priced though.

Novakon has been very responsive, and it seems so has Syil. So, anyone have any comparisons between the Novakon and the Syil X4? Both are about the same price if you include the electronics.

I think the KX3 is a heavier-duty mill than the X4. But that's just my opinion.

CR.

So when's Hoss going to put out an X3 kit?

Sorry, not gonna happen.
My mill's (http://www.hossmachine.info/) capacity is between a Tormach and Industrial Hobbies mill.
Don't see any point in getting an X3 now but never say die.
A buddy may pick one up, who knows, I could help him convert it.
Cadmonkey has already done a great job with it anyhow.
Hoss

Just to provide closure to this thread - I ended up finding a deal on a used 2019 with Gecko electronics locally and picked it up over the weekend. The guy who sold it to me was also nice enough to spend a few hours showing me how to use it and answering a lot of questions. I've got the mill up and running at home and now I'll be posting other questions! :)

Thanks everyone for the help. I think that before too long I'll be selling this mill and buying something bigger but I couldn't pass up the opportunity to have something up and running in a weekend.