After some frustration using a few of the included wizards in Mach I decided to try my hand at making a few of my own. This wizard will do 5 different circular routines from one page. I've made every attempt to make it as bug free as possible. One of the problems I ran into with a few of the included Wizards were the ability to "break" the code with values that were out of range. This seemed to happen often due to the input dro's being scattered around the screen. I always seemed to miss something. I tried to make this one so that it would flow from top to bottom without giving you a headache searching around for the right DRO. I hope I don't come across as too critical because the folks who make these are generally volunteers and I learned a lot by studying their scripts. I am not a programmer so this was somewhat of a learning experience for me but very enjoyable. Most of the code I just wrote myself but a bit of it was copied from an existing script and modified to work within my script.
I hope it can be of use to someone else besides my me.
In case you have never installed a Wizard just follow these steps.

*Unzip the files
*Put the M700.m1s file into the Mach3Mill folder under the Mach Macros directory
*Put the whole folder called "Andys Circle Routines" in the Addons folder

That's all...
The new wizard should be on the list when you call up the wizards in Mach.
If there is enough interest I may start on some rectangular pocket wizards.
Andy

BTW.... A short explanation of some of the buttons
There is a 3 AXIS/2 AXIS button to change the code output for people like myself who have simple 2 axis machines
The other one is somewhat self explanatory ...it is the option to climb or conventional cut.
The other gives you a choice of Inch or Metric output.
Not all of the input values pertain to all of the available functions and are just ignored. The color coded inputs match their respective functions at left.
Let me know if you find any mistakes or bugs and I will try to correct them.

One Other Thing....
This wizard was designed to fit a native 1270 x 1024 screen which I use.
If you are using a smaller screen it will be necessary to check The "Auto Screen Enlarge" Check box on the general config page of Mach. It will cause all screens to shrink or enlarge based on the resolution of your monitor.

Edited attachment to remove the unnecessary system files that snuck in from my Mac

wow great and neat interface, definitely one of the nicest wizard out there if you intend on doing other for rectangular pocket or any other tool path i will certainly follow there progression.
again great work

ill ask for the post to be moved to the wizard section.

what is the macosx folder for???

Sorry about that...
Just delete the Mac folder. Those are Apple Mac indexing files. They are hidden System files...but they show up on a Windows PC. I will repackage it on a PC so they are not in there. Sorry for the confusion and thanks for the heads up.
Andy

So sorry!!!
I made some mistakes in the attachments.
They would not run as posted. I have re uploaded the Attachments and they should work fine now. Please let me know if there are any other problems.
Andy

Very nice wizard and well made interface.

Thank you for your effort and willingness to share. Looking forward to more of your work along this line.

Very cool!
You could add a finishing pass but it's great the way it is.
Ozzie

Waht software did you create the buttons with? It looks really good.

I considered doing a finishing pass into the routine but decided to put it off. It's possible that I may. I may also add a spiral plunge ability as well. Working on this wizard and a screenset that I have in the works has eaten up way too much of my time lately. I'm not getting a lot else done.
Gerry, I used Photoshop for the whole layout. After I get everything where I want it I slice it up into buttons with one big image for the background. I have to create two versions, one for the on state of the buttons, and one for the off state. I have a little bit of background using Photoshop so it helps.
Here also is the screenset I have been using. The circle wizard actually started out as page two in the screenset, and still is. I broke it out to be a stand alone wizard for anyone else. The screen is actually a little different from this shot.
Because the Circle routines are actually a part of the main screenset it loads instantly so it's easy to create a roughing path then bounce right back and create a finish pass. All the values are still there.
Andy

very nice screen setup , thats got to be the best one that i have seen so far , its not missing anything

Any tutorials (or links) on making buttons like those in Photoshop? :D

Hi Gerry,
This is the tutorial that I found a few years ago that works pretty well.
It obviously requires Photoshop. I don't even use all the steps in this.
http://www.altuit.com/webs/altuit/GlassPhotoShopTutorial/QuickGlassButton.htm

If you have any questions I can help.
Actually I can make a simple layered photoshop file of a button.
When you open it in Photoshop you can interogate the layers to see how it is put together. Actually much simpler than you might imagine.

A sample file would be great. I've been playing with a different tutorial, but it's rather complicated. The one you posted looks to be much simpler. Thanks.

Gerry,
Here is the layered Photoshop button file. If I can figure out how to do a good screen capture video I will do it.
Andy

Gerry,
I have posted a video tutorial up on YouTube if you are interested.
Please don't be too critical as this my first attempt at a video tutorial.
It was done on my mac. The screen resolution on mac is really high so it does affect the amount of movement on screen. I hope it helps.
Andy
PS If you watch this video at the YouTube site it is available in High Quality which is much easier to watch.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lGZpzFA4ICo

Can't thank you enough. 2 little things I was missing. Awesome.

Hey, that looks familiar! :)

Love your new screen! It looks like the eye candy.set file is missing from the zip file if you would be willing to share it.

So sorry about that....I was up late putting that together. I had two readme files in there when one of them was supposed to be the set file. I have edited the previous post to include it. Here is the set file by itself.

Thanks, very nice work.

Danny

Gerry,
I have posted a video tutorial up on YouTube if you are interested.
Please don't be too critical as this my first attempt at a video tutorial.
It was done on my mac. The screen resolution on mac is really high so it does affect the amount of movement on screen. I hope it helps.
Andy

You need to record and action :) then it's just 1-click.

Jay

Your right,
I actually made an action out of it. But I found that if I made a smart object out of the first one I can easily duplicate it and transform it to different sizes much quicker. I found that the action didn't always give consistent results if there were other layers present.
Andy

this may be a dumb question, but i would like to know anyway. i installed the wizard, but the picture is to large to see all of the options. i tried to minimize but was unable to . i am running a tormach and i think a lot of my config options are locked. what should i try next? thank you for your time.

The screen was designed for a resolution of 1280 x 1024. If you go into the general config menu of mach3 there is an option down toward the bottom right of the menu called "auto enlarge". It will shrink or enlarge the screen to fit the dimensions of your screen. You will need to restart Mach3 after the change though. A better solution would be to set your screen resolution higher if possible. The reason I designed it at the resolution I did was that most 17" monitors have a native resolution of 1280 x 1024. Both of my cnc machines have 17" monitors.
I hope this helps. Let me know if you still need help.
Andy

my config menue is locked.

Really?....I would be calling Tormach about that.
There are a lot of settings that most people like to change in there. I wouldn't be happy about being locked out.

Norvil,
Try this new set file. Just unzip and overwrite the existing .set file with this one. The wizard should fit your screen then. It's not the best approach but I believe it will work. I used the Mach3 Screentweak utility to resize the .set file to fit in a 1024 x 768 space.
Let me know if it works.
Andy

Andy -

Thanks for the great wizard. One of these days I'll figure out how to write them and post a few myself. I have some ideas, and I appreciate your method of putting DROs in a column instead of scattered everywhere. As others have mentioned, the buttons look great, too!

I tried it out last night, and it worked great except that I hit what may be a snag; you have a tool change in the generated code, which will stop a running spindle, but no M3 (or M4) to turn it back on. I had to edit the generated code to add that and M8 for coolant. Did I miss something?

Regards,

- Just Gary

Sorry about that Gary.
At the time I wrote it I didn't have a controllable spindle so I wasn't thinking about that. I thought I was doing everyone a favor by having a Tool Change in there.. Ha! I have since added a spindle relay to my router. It should affect me now as well. I will have to modify it. I also have made a wizard for facing. I haven't polished it up yet. But it is definitely handy. I will modify the wizard to include the spindle on/off as well as a speed and repost it.

Andy

Andy -

Thanks for the prompt reply. If you feel like adding a coolant button also, that would also be great (M8 turns it on, M9 turns it off), but I'll not try to beg too much. You could use it to control a vacuum...

I can't wait to see the facing wizard. That's another one that I would use a lot.

I have pretty much decided that rather than figure out how to do a Mach wizard, I'd be better off just writing a stand-alone Winders program (which I can do without reading another manual) to generate G-code. You could then run it at the same time as Mach, and just open the resulting file in Mach. Maybe I'll play with that sometime soon.

Regards,

- Just Gary

Here is the Revised Wizard to include a DRO for speed control. I put it in the only available space at the top. It is an incredible PITA to modify a screen set that is non standard. I arbitrarily added code output that will turn on both mist and coolant. I don't have time to rework the entire wizard screen to add the necessary buttons to control the mist/flood options. They will all come on by default now. It will be easier to edit them out if necessary than to edit them in. For most people running routers and such the codes won't even do anything. But the M3 and M5 codes are in there now.
If anyone has a problem with the new files just let me know.

The facing wizard is built into my personal screenset. It is a pain to break out as a standalone wizard. If I get time I will try to fit it in.
Andy

Shinosky,

Great job on the new screen! :)

.

It is an incredible PITA to modify a screen set that is non standard.

Tell me about it. ;)

Andy -

You're my hero. Thanks again for sharing your great work with us!

- Just Gary

First off Thanks for taking the time and effort to write this wizard!

I downloaded it and have been playing with it on two different computers, one a simulator and the other my shop system.
Both systems have troubles running this program, the simulator writes a code that is the graphic of the inside cut button. This is no matter what the dimensions or other button is selected. I can't get rid of it, reboot doesn't change it. Will have to delete the program to clear it.

On the shop system the "SAVE", "EXIT", and "POST CODE" buttons do not change state when clicked. The "SAVE" will save the dro's, the "EXIT" ends the program back to Mach3, but the "POST CODE" button does absolutely nothing. No g-code in the box, no graphic display, or transfer to Mach3.

My first thought is that the files weren't in the correct folders but checked correct.
I checked the dro entries to see if a bad entry was blocking the code generation but can't find a problem there either.

There is no code available to upload here... (However there is the code from the simulator that I can upload here later.)

Shop system is a Compaq tower running Winxp. Have not had any problems using licensed version of the latest Mach3. The simulator is a Dell Inspiron 8100, Winxp that I have used to run my router.

All other wizards run fine, including the NFS.

I've read all the posts in this thread and have tried to supply all the information to questions that might be asked.

Ok, here's the g-code of a .500" circle inside cut...It is the graphic of the related button:

( CUT A 0.5 INCH DIA. CIRCLE)
( TOOL DIA. 0.125)
( 6 STEPS @ 0.01 PER STEP )
( TOTAL DEPTH OF 0.06 INCHES )
G0 G49 G40 G20 G17 G80 G50 G90
M6 T1
G00 Z0.35
G00 X0.0938 Y-0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.01F5
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.0938 F10
G03 X-0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.0938 Y0.0938 R0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G00 X0.0938 Y-0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.02F5
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.0938 F10
G03 X-0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.0938 Y0.0938 R0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G00 X0.0938 Y-0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.03F5
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.0938 F10
G03 X-0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.0938 Y0.0938 R0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G00 X0.0938 Y-0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.04F5
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.0938 F10
G03 X-0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.0938 Y0.0938 R0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G00 X0.0938 Y-0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.05F5
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.0938 F10
G03 X-0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.0938 Y0.0938 R0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G00 X0.0938 Y-0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.06F5
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.0938 F10
G03 X-0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.1875 Y0 R0.1875
G03 X0.0938 Y0.0938 R0.0938
G00 Z0.1
G53 Z-.1
M30


Thanks,
Fatboy

On the simulator (actually I enabled the driver to see if that would change the outcome....Nope).

( CUT A 0.5 INCH DIA. CIRCLE)
( TOOL DIA. 0.125)
( 6 STEPS @ 0.01 PER STEP )
( TOTAL DEPTH OF 0.06 INCHES )
G0 G49 G40 G20 G17 G80 G50 G90
M6 T1
G00 Z0.35
G00 X-0.5125 Y-0.2
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.01F5
G03 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.2 F10
G02 X0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G02 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G03 X-0.5125 Y0.2 R0.2
G00 Z0.1
G00 X-0.5125 Y-0.2
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.02F5
G03 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.2 F10
G02 X0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G02 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G03 X-0.5125 Y0.2 R0.2
G00 Z0.1
G00 X-0.5125 Y-0.2
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.03F5
G03 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.2 F10
G02 X0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G02 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G03 X-0.5125 Y0.2 R0.2
G00 Z0.1
G00 X-0.5125 Y-0.2
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.04F5
G03 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.2 F10
G02 X0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G02 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G03 X-0.5125 Y0.2 R0.2
G00 Z0.1
G00 X-0.5125 Y-0.2
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.05F5
G03 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.2 F10
G02 X0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G02 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G03 X-0.5125 Y0.2 R0.2
G00 Z0.1
G00 X-0.5125 Y-0.2
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.06F5
G03 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.2 F10
G02 X0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G02 X-0.3125 Y0 R0.3125
G03 X-0.5125 Y0.2 R0.2
G00 Z0.1
G53 Z-.1
M30


Thanks,
Fatboy

OK Fatboy.....that sounds funny. I redownloaded the file from the forum just to make sure it had not been corrupted or something. It ran fine on my machine. So.....let me state first off that those buttons will not change state due to the way I created the screen. They are only "Hotspots" per se. According to you the "save" and "exit" buttons do what they are supposed to but not the "Post" button. The "Post" button does only one thing, It calls the Macro which generates the code. If it is not doing anything then it is because the macro is not in the proper folder. or not present at all. On a standard setup of Mach the default mill profile is called Mach3Mill. But if you are running a custom profile then it may have a different name. You must place the "M700.m1s" in the correct folder under Macros in order for it to get called. If you are using a custom profile such as "IMach" then the macro would need to be in the macro folder of the same name. Please see the accompaning Screenshot. I am sure that is the problem you are experiencing. Let me know if this doesn't resolve it.
Andy

Let me know if this doesn't resolve it.

Andy,
Thanks for the quick reply, I came straight out to the shop and triple checked the files location, they are exactly as instructed. Still the code does not post.
I even placed a copy of the 700 file in the .XML folder for my profile...nada.
Rebooted computer....nada.

All other wizards work fine. I wish that I could get yours going I really like the layout. Also I tried the latest version with the spindle speed.

Thanks,
Fatboy

Try placing a copy of the macro in every folder under \macros.

If you right click on the desktop icon, and go to properties, what does it have in the "target" box? Can you copy and paste it here?

Thanks Gerry, I was just going to suggest that!

Andy and Gerry,
Placing the 700 file in all the folders fixed the post code problem...but I now have the same problem detailed in my initial post with the generated code including the graphic of the inside or outside button.

Here's the code files: (Had to add .txt to upload them.)

Thanks,
Fatboy
Been working with CNC since Jan...but fairly computer savy, not a wiz or programmer however.

BTW: Thanks for the help!!!

I guess I'm a little confused. Are you claiming that you select a different type of path ( such as the "Pocket") but it generates code for the "Inside" circle routine instead?
You will need to be a little clearer for me.

Ok, I've been looking at the generated code and see the G03 and G02 which coincide with the display. For some reason this is being inserted into the wizard post.

Like I said, I'm not a programmer (CNC or otherwise) but I have nothing but time and love a good challenge. Being self taught has it's drawbacks but I'm not able to attend any kind of formal training, the internet and forums like this one are the basis of my knowledge of the subject at hand. Youtube helps a lot too.

I'm going to remove the G03 lines and check the result.
Thank you all for the opportunity to participate.
Fatboy

Are you possibly referring to the leadins and leadouts? They are supposed to be there. I don't know what you mean by the "graphics". Exactly what kind of output are you expecting? I have run each of the different toolpath types and they do exactly what they should. Huh

I guess I'm a little confused. Are you claiming that you select a different type of path ( such as the "Pocket") but it generates code for the "Inside" circle routine instead?
You will need to be a little clearer for me.

What I get is the actual graphic that is on the selected button, 0( for outside or 0) for inside. This occurs on both my computers.
Removing the G03 gave an bad result, like I said I'm not a programmer.

Now if I could just keep from moving the wrong mouse and typing on the wrong keyboard, the hazards of using 3 computers at one time.

Thanks,
Fatboy

That is the idea...to end up with a toolpath that looks like the button. :) What kind of results are you looking for?

Are you possibly referring to the leadins and leadouts? They are supposed to be there. I don't know what you mean by the "graphics". Exactly what kind of output are you expecting? I have run each of the different toolpath types and they do exactly what they should. Huh
They are Half moon cuts on either the inside of the circle or on the outside of the circle. I would expect just a circular cut, does the code that I posted not show the half moons? If they are lead-ins then why do they cut? My understanding of a lead-in is to position the tool in the correct location to z down and begin a cut. I have the idea that a lead-in is a straight move, but I could be wrong.

Just to be clear, the "On Center", "Pocket", and "Arc" do not have this half moon.

Also, when I run the code the cut starts at the end of the half moon arc and proceeds counteclockwise (G03) until the arc touches the circle and the cut follows the circle around clockwise (G02) to the arc. Then G03 completes the arc. If there are repeat cuts then the z retracts and the whole process is repeated. In other words I get 1-1/2 circles.

This happens on both my computers regardless of settings, plus there isn't a reverse finish cut option. The fact that I haven't read any other posts on this leads me to think that something is not right on my end. This might be a good time to learn about arcs ad quit using wizards as a shortcut.

Sorry to be a pain on the weekend...take the rest of the day off. I really should shup down all my systems till this major thunderstorm passes.

Thanks,
Fatboy

Haha....Yes, the leadins "are" supposed to cut. In this case you would not want the cutter to plunge directly down onto the finished path because the cutter will tend to gouge the profile. The recomended method is to plunge away from the finish profile and then feed into the profile through a gradual arc and then gradually move away at the end of the profile. The other variations are for times when you don't want any leadin/out such as a radial slot. I hope this is clear now.
Andy

If I select "Conventional Cut" all the cuts are conterclockwise (G03) including the half moon. "Climb" cuts the half moon counteclockwise (G03) and the circle clockwise (G02).
Same results in "Inch"/"Metric" or "2D"/"3D".

Thanks,
Fatboy

Haha....Yes, the leadins "are" supposed to cut. In this case you would not want the cutter to plunge directly down onto the finished path because the cutter will tend to gouge the profile. The recomended method is to plunge away from the finish profile and then feed into the profile through a gradual arc and then gradually move away at the end of the profile. The other variations are for times when you don't want any leadin/out such as a radial slot. I hope this is clear now.
Andy

Ok, then cutting just a simple circle is not what is going to happen here?
My thought was that the ramping would be done in first few moments in the cut of the actual circle path, like what happens with cutting a pocket.

Also, why is there no such half moon lead-in cuts in the "On Center" selection?

I must be missing something here.

Hope that I'm not being difficult, I thought that I was gaining an understanding of cnc and I still have a truckload to learn but for some reason this makes no sense to me. I tend to play with all the buttons to see what each does and the effect on actual cuts...like I said earlier, I've got nothing but time to experiment. Even built a router to play with which to learn all I can.

Did you look at or try to dry run the code that I posted, I think that you would see what I'm trying to explain.

Thanks,
Fatboy

Sure I looked at the code. It does what is intended. Conventional cut is used most often when your machine has backlash or slop in the mechanism. Climb cutting is preferred and used when your machine is tight without any slop in the screws and bearings. If you attempt to cut using a climb cut and you do indeed have backlash in your system the tool will climb ahead taking too great a bite resulting in a poor finish, or quite often in a broken cutter or worse. That is the reason for the climb/conventional option in the wizard.

Andy,
I completey understand the difference in conv and climb milling as I have been "playing" with machining for over 9 years...with the amount of backlash in my junk machines it was a quick lesson, however it's cnc that is new to me.

Let me ask just one more question. In the circle wizard written by Kiran, I get a good circle that includes the requested stepdown in the circle cut. Why is this not the case for me with your wizard?

I really like your wizard in that the dros are lined up unlike the Kiran (and most of the other wizards) which use the shotgun dro placement method. I hope to use it for pocketing, on line circles, and arcs.

I really appreciate all of your time and effort in writing this wizard and in helping me here.

Thanks,
Fatboy
My third grade teacher wrote on my report card that I was "Argumentive". Little did she know...

Let me ask just one more question. In the circle wizard written by Kiran, I get a good circle that includes the requested stepdown in the circle cut. Why is this not the case for me with your wizard?


I'm guessing because Andy wrote the wizard to work the way He wanted it to, not the way Kiran wanted his to. :)

OK...one more time:)
The "Outside Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then offsets the toolpath to the outside and creates lead ins/outs. The finished part is a boss of the programmed size.
The "Inside Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then offsets the toolpath to the inside and creates lead ins/outs. The finished part is a Hole of the programmed size.
The "On Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then centers the toolpath to it without leads. The finished part is a Circular Slot of the programmed size.
The "Pocket Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then offsets the toolpath to the inside and clears out the interior of the programmed circle. The finished part is a circular pocket of the programmed size.
The "Arc" routine takes the programmed circle diameter with start and end points then centers the toolpath to it without leads. The finished part is a Circular Arc Slot of the programmed size.

Finally....slotted holes/arcs can't have leads, but bosses and holes can benefit from them. I really hope this clears it up :drowning:

OK...one more time:)
The "Outside Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then offsets the toolpath to the outside and creates lead ins/outs. The finished part is a boss of the programmed size.
The "Inside Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then offsets the toolpath to the inside and creates lead ins/outs. The finished part is a Hole of the programmed size.
The "On Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then centers the toolpath to it without leads. The finished part is a Circular Slot of the programmed size.
The "Pocket Circle" routine takes the programmed circle diameter then offsets the toolpath to the inside and clears out the interior of the programmed circle. The finished part is a circular pocket of the programmed size.
The "Arc" routine takes the programmed circle diameter with start and end points then centers the toolpath to it without leads. The finished part is a Circular Arc Slot of the programmed size.

Finally....slotted holes/arcs can't have leads, but bosses and holes can benefit from them. I really hope this clears it up :drowning:

Ok, I came out to the shop and cut three different circles (inside, on center, and outside) using the same dro setting for each. Material is .042" vinyl siding scrap. Took a still pic from the video cam and posted below.

One thing that stands out in the above post is the word "boss". I don't want to create any bosses, all my work is thin material. However, I do understand feed-in to allow an end mill to reach a set depth while in motion to create a desired boss in a piece of stock. I guess the difference in the words CIRCLE and CIRCULAR in this context confused me. Also the use of lead-in to me means that the tool is not cutting while transversing to the point of a cut.

Sorry for being difficult.

Fatboy

I think that most of your problems seem to be that your interpretation of the terms used is different from what is intended.

Boss could also be considered a disc, when cutting thin materials.

As for Lead ins and Lead outs, I typically use them to ramp into the material

I'm basing my understanding of lead-ins as the traces shown in the g-code graphic depiction. Also the fact that they can be turned on or off in Lazycam which displays them as the rapid moves between cutting locations. (Leads Off button, in the project info box "Leadins Turned Off") None of the pieces that I have finished using Lcam cut the leadins. To me once a cut is started the leadin ends...
I certainly wouldn't want to be dragging the cutting bit across the work piece during a rapid move to a cut position.

One good thing, I have begun to write my own code for circles and shapes that suits me and they cut as written.

Thanks for the help,
Fatboy

A rapid move and a lead in move are not the same thing. Another misunderstanding, or miscommunication. :)

A rapid move and a lead in move are not the same thing. Another misunderstanding, or miscommunication. :)

I have seen the light...you're right and I was incorrect.

To Andy and Ger21, I owe you both a big apology...sorry that I wasted so much of your time.

Fatboy
Crow tastes like raw chicken that's been sitting on the counter for a week!!!

No problem. ;)

Here also is the screenset I have been using. The circle wizard actually started out as page two in the screenset, and still is. I broke it out to be a stand alone wizard for anyone else. The screen is actually a little different from this shot.
Because the Circle routines are actually a part of the main screenset it loads instantly so it's easy to create a roughing path then bounce right back and create a finish pass. All the values are still there.
Andy

Andy, kudos on your work!!!

May I suggest some more items for your screen? There is space if you remove that big Mach3 banner at the button :D

Add:
Last used wizard
NFS wizards (for us licensed users)
Buttons for selecting offsets (G54 thru G59)
Spindle control
and add the settings/diagnostics screens.

Thanks again for sharing it


Pablo

I got a g53 code at the end when I tried this wizzard and that sent my Z axis down to -50 when I ran it offline.

Why does it generate this code?

The code was set up to switch to machine coordinates and then send the z axis to the home position. If you don't like this behavior you can always edit the gcode and delete this line out of the code. Part of the problem may be that you haven't ref'ed the machine. The Z should move up to the top of the travel when homed.

Hi, congrat for the nice wizard but I'm having trouble with it I don't know if this is normal but the safe Z and the total depth seems to add up together. Whenever I make a modification to the safe Z in reveals in the G code and my router plunge to that deepness. here is he pic I have measured it and it is .375 deep and the code his highlighted? By the way you wouldn't have a wizard to create an oval ( ELLIPSE ).
Thank you
http://image75.webshots.com/75/7/19/2/2810719020037526726EJyrRg_fs.jpg

Hey Bobinette,
I'd like to try and fix your problem but the jpg you posted won't display. I get a "forbidden" error message. What are the values you put into the Safe Z and Total Depth Dialog boxes?
I do not have any plans to create an ellipse wizard any time soon....sorry. I am just swamped with other projects.

Thank you for your help, for the pic I will ry it out this way, hope it works, a pic is suppose to worth a thosands words

Everything looks fine on the dialog. Could you please copy and paste the resulting Gcode? It would help me to see what might have happened.
Thanks....Andy

Hi, here is the code and if you take a look at the pic, where it is hihglighted you can see the Z 0.35 ?

( CUT A 3 INCH DIA. CIRCLE)
( TOOL DIA. 0.25)
( 2 STEPS @ 0.125 PER STEP )
( TOTAL DEPTH OF 0.25 INCHES )
G0 G49 G40 G20 G17 G80 G50 G90
M6 T1
M3 S1200
M7
M8
G00 Z0.35 Is this ok?
G00 X3.25 Y1.75
G00 Z0.1
G01 Z-0.125F10
G03 X0.25 Y1.75 R1.5 F20
G03 X3.25 Y1.75 R1.5
G01 Z-0.25F10
G03 X0.25 Y1.75 R1.5 F20
G03 X3.25 Y1.75 R1.5
G00 Z0.1
G53 Z-.1
M5 M9
M30

Ok, I haven't looked at this in a while so I had to refresh my memory. that initial move in the Z axis takes the cutter down to the Safe Z Dimension plus .25" but only on the initial move. Whenever the cutter comes up for a positional move it does so at the programmed Safe Z level. I think I did this because I didn't like my machine making an initial rapid move down so close to the part :o I don't see anything in the code you posted that would cause the tool to gouge or plunge deeper than the programed max depth. Let me know if I have missed something.
Andy

Hi, first off all I want to be sure about the safe Z, the one you are talking about is in the config/safe_Z set up ?
If this is the right one, I tryed to change some settings in it and it didn't change anything, I would admit that I don't know what to place where in these settings and many more( I guest that Rome wasn't built in a day).
The only thing that I have learned is clicking on Go to Z on the main screen brings me back to my original position, at least I have learn something new.
Sthill a lot to learn
Thank you for your help

He's talking about the SafeZ setting in the wizard.

Thanks for sharing your great work