hi, i just bought a HX3040 from Rabbit.
i just installed it some minutes ago and run out some test for engraving, i can engrave but it melts the material as well and i was trying to cut out shapes with it but cant find a way to do that, can anyone help me out?
which software can i use also?

What is the material, and what do you have the power / speed set on?

I am no expert, only had my machine for a week but it sounds like you need to increase the speed and/or lower the power.

ooh ok so to cut i only need to slower it down and increase the speed? it goes same for if i wana cut through paper and stone?

You use power, speed, assist gas and focus to achieve the desired result.

Higher power and lower speeds will be more likely to cause burning/charring of the material, adding an assist gas (Nitrogen or CO2) will reduce it as will increasing the cutting speed or lowering the power. De-focusing also reduces the energy and can help with some materials but increases the kerf.

You will need higher power and slower speeds for engraving stone, probably 10W and 10cm/s would be a good start.

ooh ok so to cut i only need to slower it down and increase the speed? it goes same for if i wana cut through paper and stone?

Cutting: Increase power, lower the speed.

Engraving: Lower the power, increase the speed.

When cutting, try to only use enough power to cut your material. If your material will cut at 50% power, don't run it at 100% power, your tube will last longer. Paper should cut at very low power and fast speed. Stone... you can engrave it but you won't be able to cut it.

It is a trial and error process, most of us went through that also. When you find a setting that works on a certain material, write it down.

Hope that helps,
Skip

I am surprised why so many people want such kind of small machine to cut.

Me too !!! :)

Hi, I have a question. How I can adjust focus on my new HX3040? I don´t know how to do, to use with diferent width materials ( 2mm, 4mm, 7 mm,...)

Thanks

I don't have the HX3040 but would imagine you adjust the table up/down manually. The distance from material to lens needs to be constant, probably ~2".

Hi, I have a question. How I can adjust focus on my new HX3040? I don´t know how to do, to use with diferent width materials ( 2mm, 4mm, 7 mm,...)

Thanks

Ok, now I am starting to play with "cutting" a little now. I have some 1/8" birch plywood and I did a trial cut. Had to use full power, cut speed default to 2, and I slowed it to 1 but didn't improve much and I had to make 4 passes for it to cut thru. Are the edges of wood supposed to be burned? Is that normal? It cut a fine line and the edges were pretty good, although burned to what I think is pretty ugly, painting will cure it easily but I have purchased some "shaped" wood animals that are lasercut and there is no sign of burning at all???? What am I missing? And I thought it took too many passes and the power indicator only showed 1/3 to 1/2 power used during the cut.
Thanks

Oh yeah, when I said I am starting to play with cutting, perhaps I should have said, How do you get different "files" to cut in newly draw. I did cut out a star shape, but that was with the newly draw "octagon" option. Whenever I try to import a lineart "drawing" I want to cut out, all it gives me is the engrave option.? I know i'm missing a step or two here. Thanks

Newlydraw works great with Corel, ArtCAM and TurboCAD. In fact any program I've tried.

You need to import a vector to cut, perhaps you are using raster images?

Export as DXF (I believe V12 worked best) and then import, select 'cut' from the drop down box (to the right of the X/Y location/sizes).

Zax.

Oh yeah, when I said I am starting to play with cutting, perhaps I should have said, How do you get different "files" to cut in newly draw. I did cut out a star shape, but that was with the newly draw "octagon" option. Whenever I try to import a lineart "drawing" I want to cut out, all it gives me is the engrave option.? I know i'm missing a step or two here. Thanks

OK, so plywood isn't exactly the easiest. You may not be able to cut 1/8" with good results - and certainly not 'clean' like the ones you purchased. These were likely cut with several hundred watts at a much faster speed.

The epoxy needs higher power to cut, and that causes the wood to burn. Using a slower speed makes it worse, but is probably required with our limited power.

If you focus above the surface 1/16" the kerf will be slightly wider but you'll get less charring.

I often mask the surfaces with application tape (used for vinyl signs) and slightly wet it to protect the surface from smoke damage. It also helps reduce flare up which burns the sides - but some charring will happen. I added air assist to my machine, and have experimented with shop air, nitrogen and CO2. This helps reduce charring but doesn't eliminate it.

Try some 1/8" wood (not ply) and you should get much better results, I use less than 1/2 power and 2-passes to prevent scorching.

At full power the current reading is not at full travel, it peaks just over half way... sorry I can't remember the actual number.

Zax.

Ok, now I am starting to play with "cutting" a little now. I have some 1/8" birch plywood and I did a trial cut. Had to use full power, cut speed default to 2, and I slowed it to 1 but didn't improve much and I had to make 4 passes for it to cut thru. Are the edges of wood supposed to be burned? Is that normal? It cut a fine line and the edges were pretty good, although burned to what I think is pretty ugly, painting will cure it easily but I have purchased some "shaped" wood animals that are lasercut and there is no sign of burning at all???? What am I missing? And I thought it took too many passes and the power indicator only showed 1/3 to 1/2 power used during the cut.
Thanks

There you go! Thanks, yes I do have corel and that is what I messed up on. Didn't know about the DXF thing, I'll give that a try!
Thanks for your help!
JT

Ok, great. I suppose I expected too much. I knew there was a gremlin in that soup!
Thanks for the help, I'll give that a try, and reduce power. This is all a big experiment to me anyway, just poking around to see what can be done...
Thanks again
JT

Uhhhmmmm, how about plain glass? Anybody played with that yet? I've got a customer who would like a picture engraved on plane plate glass, she says picture frame glass is perfect. I haven't even tried yet, and need your advice....you know, they just can't wait, I've barely got the wood thing down yet....come on!
Thanks folks
JT

Uhhhmmmm, how about plain glass?

JT
hi, i have a small 40W desktop machine too (300x250mm) and I had to made some changes to the machine work better, but now s all ok.
I did some engraving tests on glass with nice results using only 15-20 w

Picture frame glass works great, I use 8W @ 10 speed for raster engraving.

I would use 0.15 or 0.175 for line gap or the chips start to blend.

Give it a try, you'll be surprised at how easy it is.

Zax.

Uhhhmmmm, how about plain glass? Anybody played with that yet? I've got a customer who would like a picture engraved on plane plate glass, she says picture frame glass is perfect. I haven't even tried yet, and need your advice....you know, they just can't wait, I've barely got the wood thing down yet....come on!
Thanks folks
JT