The collet open button on my !!+ stopped working. I'd like to find out how:

To bypass/reroute to another button on the front panel - doable?
OR
Use the foot pedal option to attach a momentary contact switch.

Can't afford a new front panel yet.

Control is GN 10TF

Thanks!

take the panel off. i found that mine had the connector actually fall of the button and stop working. make sure there is a connection there first before trying to bypass.

Already had the panel off. All connections are secure. Next?

did you try jumpering the wires when the panel was off. maybe the switch is bad. other than you gotta start tracing wires. are you sure that the switch is bad and not the valve? the valve is located under the control panel in the middle access panel. i had to replace one of my solenoids when mine stopped working.

Thanks for trying to help. The back of the front panel is mostly a sealed circuit board, except for ribbon connectors in 4 plugs, and a few smaller connectors. I've managed to locate one of the pins on a 50 pin connector that supposedly connects to the collet open button, using the electrical diagrams.

I've also since discovered that the coolant "auto" button doesn't work either. Coolan "Off" and "On" work just fine.

I've unplugged all ribbon cables, cleaned them (didn't look dirty) and replaced them, to no effect.

Oh, and the Coolant "On" button isn't supposed to do anything with the door open, but it does...

Maybe another call into Hardinge is in order, but they haven't been too much help for this old machine.

Sounds like the door switch may be defeated and I second the notion of checking the collet close soleniod. You may be able to use the "close" solenoid to check it's operation. Just switch solenoids. Can you hear the "close" solenoid working when you pess the pedal or button?

The collet opens with an MDI M21; Closes with the "Close" button. I don't believe its a valve issue, valve works fine under command... I'll check the door switch.

I recently had the same problem with my Conquest 42, except my problem was with the collet opening at the M30, M01 or reset during operating. The button was stuck ON. A little contact cleaner and I was back up.

I know it's been a while since you posted, but what did you find wrong?

Still a problem, not fixed. Don't know what's wrong, just want to put in a different switch somewhere...

Is the switch a membrane or a regular push button type?

Current non-working switch is membrane. New panel would cost 3k,just want to replace with mechanical switch.

My collet switch is a membrane too. The protective cover has been worn off and the film has opened up to where the button contacts are exposed. It's not much of a crack , but enough to let dirt and coolant from your finger to mess it up. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner into the membrane as I operated the switch...kinda tapping it, not pushing, and it started working again. You'll need an electrical diagram or call Hardinge to find the in/out puts of the switch and wire accordingly. If your coolant button isn't working too, I would be curios to see that it may share the same bus or strip on the board.

Good luck and post back what you did...

Finally getting back! I have a PDF of a document Hardinge service sent me labeling all the membrane switches and LED's to the corresponding ribbon connector pinouts. Re-routed broken switches to spares. Everything is beautiful, at least for now. Let me know if you need said document!

Sweet! I would expect that I have a different panel on the Conquest. I'm still good and I have my wiring manual.

Glad to see you worked it out!