:withstupiHi all
I started one of these a while ago but personal stuff got in the way
So here goes again

So ive decided to buy an engraver and start my own bis (part time/ w/e)

I looked thru all these forums for ages and decided on a redsail m500
I went with this because the price was achievable and and the forums have warned on after sale help is not always available (when they get your money the caring stops) and the redsail ones have a few outlets around that u can communicate with

So i looked at buying here in australia but the markup was to steep for me and i decided to buy direct from china

So Ive ordered one and it took about 5 weeks to get to me with shipping and customs
Be aware for people in australia plywood boxes need paperwork or it has to be fumigated

So it has arrived about 1 week ago and im still sorting out the bugs LOL

See next post

:withstupi
Ok so ive recieved my cargo
I say this about the box
It was one of the best packs ive ever seen
Nothing was moving in there and nothing was loose

Ok so ive unpacked it and started to test and check everything
I checked all the xtras first exhuast air and water pump and all worked fine
The only scary thing was the power board for the chinese plugs as this is a scary sight as it is very open and i wouldnt want to spill any water (ill change this as fast as i can)
Next up was the laser and that was not what i expected as i thought it would have been connected already but it wasnt so out came the soldering iron (i have some experience with soldering) and the fun begins
This was a pain in the rear as im trying to solder copper wire to steel and that not easy, they say rap copper wire around the steel pin tightly and then solder then join ur wire and man was this fiddly, but Ive got it done and it was only 2 wires to connect
Just a side note the machine and all the wiring was very professionally done and you can easy tell what belongs to what and its very very neat
So now i have everything connected
I started to align the mirrors and found this to be fairly simple to do just do it in small steps and it was easy
Ok now the software
This is were they let themselves down i think
The manuals that come with it are not very simple and they explain alot of stuff but not always how to get from a to b (just this is a and this is b )
My first big problem was trying to find out were to plug the pc into the machine after a few emails back and forth i found that they didnt put in an extension on the curcuit board to the side of the machine and that i had to plug the usb cable directly into the machine board
So i have done this now and its alive
I swear i saw it move by itself and man was that a relief
Im still fine tuning the software but its engraving glass for me and pictures and all LOL
Shadow

So heres my first problem
People here might be able to help me with
I engrave the flat glass with bmp but the images are not very clear and it appears that the holes are large that are being made
Ive turn down the power and the images are clearer but its not easy as some of the bit disappear completely im going to experiment with the power settings and see if i can find the middle but im wanting to do photo quality and need to find the answer
Could it be that the laser alignment is still out by a little and what would be the signs of this
Shadow

Shadow,

Was there a heigth gauge included to set the focus length of the lens? Also, you don't need much power to etch glass. Check the focus and set the power to about 30% and start there.

Did you get NewlyDraw software or LaserCut?

Also, what is the scan gap set at?

If you use the search feature in this forum you can find lots of good information about engraving pictures, and information about what is required to get satisfactory results. Search for scan gap and engraving pictures. That might get you on the right path.

Attached is some basic info that has been posted here before.

Skip

Dear Shadow:
What is your software? Laser cut 5.0? What power and speed did you set for engraving glass?
Alice

:confused:Hi Skipw

I believe the focus is good but hard to tell as i do get small dots but is this right ?

The software im using is lasercut 5.1

I have gap set to 0.1 and yes there was a hieght gauge that came with the machine and im using it to set the hieght each time

I know with the power setting at 30% and 80% speed the art starts to get half the bits missing

I did a glass sheet last night and engraved many squares on it at dif power and speed settings and it showed a roughness .So it show kind of what power and speed are a good setting
I going to do the same tonight if i get time with a small delicate picture at all the dif settings starting at 30%power and 50% speed and work my way up.Hopefully this will show picture loss and will show me at what point i get the full pic back

The power i was using was 60% and speed 80% when i first started
but i think this is a little high

Thanks for the input skip and ill try the search suggestion you said

Many thanks

I hope this answers your question too alice
Shadow042
Any suggestion are appriated

I've only done glass a few times but if you are blowing small chunks/holes in the artwork, you are using too much power and probably going too slow. Cut the power below 30% if you have to, and speed it up.

The roughness is common. I had to rub a scotchbrite pad over the engraving to get rid of the tiny shards.

I've heard some say to rub liquid dish soap over the glass and let it dry a little before you engrave it. Others say use a wet paper towel or a wet sheet of newspaper.

Trial and error is the best teacher I guess.

Good luck,

Skip

I believe the focus is good but hard to tell as i do get small dots but is this right ?


Hi Shadow,

I had to do this yesterday. Get a flat piece of anodized aluminum in a dark color. I just happened to have black, but red or blue will do fine.

Use your software to make a vector line about 1" long about 1/8" from the left edge of the aluminum then try this...

1: Set the focus with the supplied gauge.
2: Move the line 1/8" to the right in the software
3: Burn the line
4: Change the focus down 1/16"
5: Repeat from 2 until line washes out or gets wide and fuzzy
6: Start at 1 again but change the focus up in line 4

See attached pic. I examined the lines with a magnifying glass and the one with the red square looked the best so that's where my focus is. My gauge was out by almost 1/4".

Dave

This also depends on your application. If your application is always surface engraving, then setting it in this manner is ideal. If, however, your application is cutting, your focus should be roughly halfway into the material.

If, however, your application is cutting, your focus should be roughly halfway into the material.


Good point Mac.

Dave

Hi Dave and Mac

I thank you for your input dave and i have done something similar to what u did but on the glass

What i have found is that with it being glass the laser fractures a much larger area then most mats and i have had to change the scan gap to 0.2 and this improved this a heap and much of it has come clear
I still dont have photo quality yet but getting there

For good ref for anybody check out skipw thread www.cnczone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=44796
one of the best threads for info i have found many thanks skip
It has a good ref for scan gap and other info

I have found that running my power at 30 to 40 % is good for a fine engrave and speed at 40 to 50 % to keep the detail (i have a 50w laser m500)
I get some great pictures from this

Im still trying to work out how they are getting the fineart on mirrors but most dont do it and do it on acrylic mirrors so it seem to be not that common and i found i can get it on glass easy but the mirrors distort the image some

When i get some pics ill posts some

Shadow

For glass, keep the DPI around 150 (or less). For mirrors, engrave from the backside so you're not shining through the glass.

I have tried the focus setting on the top and 1/2 way through the material when cutting and it works so much better if you focus on the top of the material with a low power laser. With the 30 watt laser I have I suppose it gives it a bit of a head start getting all the power at the start of the cut at the focal length and the strongest possible beam.
If the laser is focused near the middle then the laser is starting with a bit less power on the very top of the material.
This may work good with multi kilowatt lasers but it seems to be better focusing on top with the low power ones. Kerf width and side taper really doesn't matter unless you need a good join for gluing in which case focus in the middle and reduce speed.

Hey MacGyver! I might PM you soon and ask you a few questions about YAG lasers and the power supplies and what is needed to get one up and running. Seems as though they work really well on granite and marble more so than the Co2's do.